dnt

Tried the slotted/drilled rotors on my Buick LeSabre, they barely lasted a year, all warped and had to be replaced. By contrast, the OEM Delco rotors and pads on my Park Avenue they have 40K miles on them and look and work excellent. To add to the confusion, I put inexpensive China made rotors on my Reatta and they seem to work quite satisfactorily after 15K miles.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">There is a "headlight module" that controls the doors. Each has it's own fuse. Do you have a "headlamp retract" switch on the console - if that does not work either then it is probably the module. </div></div> Funny thing, the headlamp retract switch stopped working about a month ago, and now the headlamp doors stop. Are the modules readily available or is that a salvage yard hunt item?

Both headlight doors suddendly stopped in their tracks, no motor noise, nothing. They manually go up/down no problem. I assume maybe a fuse or relay...if so, where do these little items hide? Any other suspects?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: red head1228</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i just got it fixed 341.00 they had to put on a new bcm </div></div> What is a "BCM" ?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If current is an issue, you can run a +12-volt wire through two relays (one for High Beam, one for Low Beam). Keep the relays close to your headlights, and use the headlight wires to control the new relay coils.</div></div> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: dnt</div><div class="ubbcode-body">As noted in previous messages, a relay could be activated by the high-beam switch circuit. </div></div> How else would you do it??? - </div></div> Well, one could be tempted to use the existing wiring a switch for the running lights...which could be problematic. Keeping the relay near the headlights, good idea...had not thought of doing so. Always learning something new.

I did not use any additive when I flushed the Reatta transmission nor did I use any prior or subsequent thereto except for the SeaFoam as previously outlined which helped a problem. I have given numerous cars, Park Avenue, LeSabre, Avalon and Volvo all high-mileage first time transmission flushes with no problems whatever. The Volvo had been diagnosed in writing by a Volvo dealer as needing a transmission overhaul...I flushed it...never had any further problems. In the future, I will probably adapt the Volvo do it yourself transmission flush procedure to the Reatta. For those that need convincing that transmission fluid should be changed, see the essay here.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Again, dnt, I don't know what part of the country you live in... Do you notice your coolant level is low... If it isn't any of the above, start checking your cowl top for rust holes.... You don't describe the odor at all. Is it mold, from being wet for so long? </div></div> I am from Michigan, 50/50 mix. The coolant level is maintaining without my adding. I will check the cowl top for rust holes--good idea. The smell I am getting is moldy. Thanks.

Sometime earlier in the year, my transmission would occasionally, perhaps twice weekly, not want to engage into first gear after coming to a full stop; it was as though the car were placed into neutral. Perhaps six months earlier than that, the transmission had been given a full flush. The folks here recommended Sea Foam which advice I followed. The condition slowly faded away, I cannot remember the last time the transmission misbehaved. So, while I am not a big believer in miracle products, Sea Foam, IMHO, is worth a try.

As always, very educational in this forum. Thank you all for your collective wisdom.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steveskyhawk</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What bad side effects are you seeing? </div></div> None.

I bought my Reatta about 25K miles ago and have been using 5W30 Mobil 1 and changing it every 3K miles. I noticed in the oil change today about a 1/2 cup of sludge. I assume that is action of the synthetic oil cleaning-out what "other" oils have left behind. But, my mistake today was doing the change with 10W30 Mobil 1 instead of 5W30, I guess I was think of my Park Avenue as that 3800 engine calls for 10W30. Any problems with my using 10W30 in the Reatta?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jamhudson</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> </div></div> Would that be a leaking heater core? I do not have the sweet anti-freeze smell that one would expect to have with a leaking heater core. It appears to be nothing more than water.

The carpet on the passenger side up on the firewall is getting wet with the associated odor problem. Is there a common culprit that should be examined first to try to resolve the source of the water leakage?

What about installing long range/off road 42,000 candlepower lights in place of the 28 watt running lights that could be utilized as bright lights only. A picture of one that would fit can be seen here As noted in previous messages, a relay could be activated by the high-beam switch circuit.

For less than $130.00, delivered, you can get the HID lights with high and low beams. For example, see here On the other hand, it is my understanding that the units that are both high/low beam capable are more prone to breakdown. Perhaps, if you get one of the real expensive units, that is less of a problem.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MauiWowee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sorry, I have not done any research on HID. I don't think I even know anyone who has installed them. What is this whole "no high beam" thing? And where do you mount those ballasts? Thanks </div></div> Now you know one person that has installed them, me. ;-) The ballast mounting was somewhat problematic as the leads from the ballast to the lights is rather short. I mounted them on the round brace bars that angle across the top front of the engine compartment. Clever people could disassemble half the car and do better...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: padgett</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This is $60 for the H-4 housing and $63 for the HID bulbs/ballast to replace the H-4s ? AFAIR the wiring to the driving lights has a maximum rating of 10 amps or about 50 watts per light. Being conservative I suspect that anything over 37.5w is going to need a relay. I have seen the stock lights with burned spots so suspect they are marginal even with the stock 27w bulb. </div></div> $63.00 for the HID kit which will work with an H4 bulb opening plus an additional $34 for the H-4 housing that replaces the existing sealed light assembly. This is what the HID kit looks like: As an aside, I did have to trim some plastic off with a dremel tool from the rear of the new headlight housing so it would fit properly. Took about 2 minutes. Total installation time about 45-minutes and that is only because I am slow. I guess I will not try to do anything with the existing running lights and will investigate replacing those assemblies with like sized units that are high-beam capable--if I can find any that are affordable. When the first light was installed, I turned the lights on for testing and when you see the HID light running next to the running OEM light, it is VERY impressive. It is an inexpensive face-lift that IMHO enhances safety.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Barney Eaton</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Next step is to increase wattage, they go 32 watts, then 37.5 then 50 which seems to be the highest wattage in that package. CAUTION, the Reatta housing is plastic and might melt. </div></div> Barney, is the wiring to the running lights of a sufficient gauge to support a higher wattage bulb? I seem to recollect reading that running lights are configured to project a wide, but not far down the road beam. If that is so, can I really get bright light performance even with a higher wattage bulb? Thanks.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NEMO</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You have BRIGHT lights.blinding on coming cars.Smart move. </div></div> Blinding oncoming cars only occurs if the new lights are not adjusted properly. Very simple, set car 20' from a wall, measure distance from ground to center of headlight (2'2") and place a piece of tape at that height on the wall, then set the beams + - 4" below that mark. 2-3 minutes, done. In the year that I have had them installed in my Park Avenue, not one person has flashed their brights at me. So, thank you for recognizing making the converstion was a "smart move"--and I assume you were not being sarcastic. :-)

I just could not resist installing an hid light system as I had installed that system in my Park Avenue a year ago and it is so much superior to the OEM lights--and only $63.00 plus $34.00 for a pair of diamond projector headlights that would accept the H-4 style bulbs utilized by the HID system This leaves me with a problem, no "bright lights." What does it take to convert or replace the running lights to "bright" lights ? Can I just tap-off the wiring on the existing high beam circuit or... ?

Don't put so much fuel in next time. Heat expansion overflow :-)

Another SEARS marketing scam. None of the stores in the Detroit area have any and they want $140.00 if it is shipped.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Durahansolo</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Bought these speakers from Sonicelectronix.com since they were $179. </div></div> But for those of us who do not want to invest 10% of the value of the car in door speakers, is there a suitable, affordable alternative?

I need to replace the fuel line from the fuel filter aft. Needless to say, it is no longer in production. Any tips on doing this replacement?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ronnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This whole discussion about is carport engineering at it's finest! </div></div> You say that like it's a bad thing.