Paul Falabella
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Posts posted by Paul Falabella
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Google "Dynaflow transmission parts". Several companies selling rebuild kits, Fatsco.net, ClassicBuick.com for a start. Other members may have more input. Have to think a rebuild less expensive than a near complete drivetrain change.
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Looks better already!
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This is what happened. The wiring for the motor is routed through a U-Channel cleverly disguised as a hinge at the bottom of the door. Apparently there was some chafing going on where the wiring passes into the door. When door was wide open to work on, it opened the circuit.
I put the new window in, partially closed the door and it goes up and down from the master switch. Will look at wiring more closely, but glad it ain't the motor!
Thanks
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The L/R power window motor had been working intermittently. Changed the window yesterday and now seems to be intermittent full time. Tried to apply voltage directly to leads not a flinch. All other windows operate. I have to say I moved the motor without the window glass(despite what the books says) a fraction of an inch to replace the down stop bumper. Could that kill a motor?
My question. The master body book lists two different part number motors, interchangeable with all other GM makes. It is, to me anyway, a little unclear which is for L/R.
Also OPGI lists a repro motor for 54-59 Caddy's. Anyone had any experience with that?
Thanks
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Inexpensive alternative, The Redneck Dynalite!
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That is part of the problem. I have never seen a 1955 specific A/C book. I look often. I have seen 53-54 Buick, Cadillac and 55 Olds books but not 55 Buick. Anyway those other books call for anywhere from 5 to 20 turns on valve. According to the Master Chassis book, the valve is the same 53-55 for all divisions,if I read it correctly.
By the way the valve can be turned using the 3/16" hole on the A/C valve ratchet wrench.
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Hope everyone's Fourth was a good one.
Back to business at hand.
Just to cover all the bases,I took the access cover off the evaporator. At the bottom of the expansion valve near cap nut was a tiny drop of red fluid(leak detector I assume).Took cap nut off,pretty clean and shiny. Tiny amount of red right around rim. I do mean a very small amount here,but did show on a white paper towel.
Big problem?
A/C info I have(maybe for 1954) says to adjust expansion valve, close and then back out 5 turns.
Same for 55? Don't mess with it ?
I will then get the the requested pressures and temps.
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Having just played with front end chrome,I can tell you it's probably a couple hundred pounds,brackets and all.
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Not the spring loaded Schrader's of today. Under the caps to the left are square headed shafts that open and close with a ratchet. I think the seats on mine are worn. I asked about the paint because I think it was just for temporary protection and is flaking off, which is why I think it might be better to remove it.
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Just got the NOS Suction/Discharge manifold I need for the 55 Roadmaster. The one on the car is bare,mostly aluminum and brass. The one I bought is painted black.The caps are red plastic. Does that look correct? The paint is flaky and I think I am going to remove it before installing. The box appears correct and the part number on the label is correct. Just wondering about the paint.
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55 Roadmaster rear seat, the 2 bolts that are behind the center armrest and secure the seat back to the body are missing. Anyone offhand know what size they are? Look like 3/16" course,not sure.Both are missing. This is why I can't get that seat to keep from moving.
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Have you tried http://www.apstowerpaint.com
Give em' a paint code, they'll put it in a can.
I once had them put paint in a can to match an old Vornado fan.
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I'm thinking 15K would get you this car nicely done,not Pebble Beach but a nice car. I see that much in chrome and paint and you still have that interior.
I do like those sedanets.
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I don't know that I'll be able to save much. It came out with such force it took a full 30 seconds to get the hose attached. The latex gloves I had on were pretty stiff. The sight glass had a few small bubbles before, now pretty big one.
Waiting to hear from person with NOS manifold. Seal on mine must have let loose, was a little leaky before,but now, fuggettaboutit!
On the bright side, the inner fender looks really nice after I cleaned up the mess.
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Never ending saga. The valve body(rear of compressor, high and low line with shut offs) is shot. Closed the high line to attach the gauge,took off cap and massive eruption of freon. Like no valve was there. Found an NOS unit on ebay. Gonna have to go for it I think.
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Bypass is disconnected. Engine off, if I tap the sight glass there are a couple of tiny bubbles. Air is system? Expansion valve problem?
Like I said compressor gets cool and sweaty, not frosted. Return is sweaty and cold,but not real cold.Duct temps around 60.
Today the compressor made a quick grunt when I engaged it. Very quick but noticeable. Seemed to work ok after that with the usual clackety clacking.
Should I just start from scratch with a new vacuum and charge?
Would be cheaper to buy that Freidrich!!
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Suggestion. Have someone push up and down on left fender while you are in car. Difficult to pinpoint a squeak. Not familiar with 51 but 55 dash top is screwed in. Loose screws?
Was able to locate rear shock squeak on my 55 using this high tech method.
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Ok.The never ending saga.
Changed the O-ring,vacuumed and charged the system, no red on the paper towel under the bypass valve,so seems not to be leaking
However, duct temp high 50's, low sixties and compressor is cool and sweating. Like I am getting!
What's problem and cure this time?
Put a Friedrich in one of the windows?
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James, Are the lines white as well?
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Then I need to get my shields over to Cloisonnemart!
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It is the Emblem,Front Door Panel, 55 Roadmaster. Someone got creative with the white.
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Once again Willy, I thank you.
Got to say that undercoating was a bear to remove but preserved the valve body pretty good. The undercoating probably failed and caused the leak!
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Just one(or two) more things. Cleaned up the body and noticed it is a directional valve. Which way do the arrows point?
When the body came apart the little circular piece dropped out. I did not see which way it goes in. Metal side up towards cylinder?
Found an O-ring that may fit. Will try with a little sealant and see if it holds a vacuum.
Thanks
Paul
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I thought that too but that is gloss paint it is actually dry.
RodneyUK 1956 Buick Special Dynaflow
in Buick - Post War
Posted
£2200 + parts sounds about right. I'd think about 4-5000 US with parts and labor.