Paul Falabella
-
Posts
789 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Paul Falabella
-
-
The tip is Approx. 7"x4"x3". It attaches to the pipe from below but sits on top the pipe. The exhaust does not pass through the tip.
-
I think it looks pretty good. A change from the clamshell tip that everybody has.It is conceivable that they were used on Buicks in the 50's. Unless you can find an NOS with the jewel and the Buick script. Only seen them for big bucks.
-
file:///Users/imac/Desktop/55%20Roadmaster/103_0012a%20copy%202.jpg
I got that tip or one very close, pretty sure from Kanter, for about 50 I think. -
I know the two doors have two tone door panels, I'd like to know if the four doors did too. So are the ones on my car original or painted to match the painted dash.
-
I'd like to get the door panels done this winter. Last winter I returned the metal dash and door surfaces that were repainted dark green, back to original.
My question is does anyone have an original code 73 interior? My door panels are a two tone with a darker green trim that matched the incorrect dark green painted metal.
Is this two tone correct or was it painted to match the other green? Any other color Roady door panels two toned? SMS says they have correct colors but I'd like to know for sure. Any pics would be great.
The door panels ain't cheap and I'd to get 'em right!
Thanks
Paul
-
If you don't want to rewire the whole car, you can often get a partial harness to replace just what is bad.
-
I think you could do a lot better for 8 grand.
-
Couple years later was a different ballgame. In the early 70's my daily driver was a 54 New Yorker Newport. The 331 hemi went pretty good for a car of it's time. Easily exceeded a century and had good road manners. Unfortunately a drunk blew a stop sign and that was that. Pretty car, Forest green over Mint green. Two tone green interior. Miss that one.
-
I was kind of thinking Willy is right. You would be pushing against a near 90 degree curve at the head. So my solution, while I wait for winter......turn up the radio!
-
This past winter I repainted the dash on my Roadmaster. I forget to lube the speedo cable and the speedo is now noisy(but accurate). I don't feel like taking the dash apart again right now. Can I remove the speedo cable from the transmission and lube it? I don't think access can be gained without removing the dash top.Or just live with noise till this winter?
Thanks
-
Thank you sir, kinda what I figured. Almost forgot; do the blower motors need lube and if so where?
-
Air Conditioner seems fine. Pressures 40/150 +/-, duct temp 39-43 degrees. Cools enough to put blower on low in 90 degree temp. Heres the question. After shutting down from a drive, a steady parade of bubbles, rear to front, are visible in the sight glass. They can be momentarily stopped by tapping on the sight glass pipe. The next day there are no bubbles, even when tapping the sight glass tube. I was think of adding another can of refrigerant, but is that necessary being system seems to be working fine? Leave it alone? Hate to upset the apple cart.
-
When you get them mounted you can have the weights put on the back of the wheel for better appearance.
-
I have decided never to open the hood again. From now on all repairs will done from below!
-
4
-
-
Just a word of advice. I believe what caused my problem was closing the hood by pushing down from above. If you hold the hood a few inches from open and let go, the hood will close with less force. Slamming the hood bends stuff!
-
Would have to think converting to rear tube shocks would be as expensive or more than rebuilding the originals.
-
For what it's worth, I used Apple Hydraulics to rebuild the rear lever shocks on my 55, two years ago. So far so good, no problems.
-
Additional bending and moving around of the assemblies and now have driven about 30 miles, RR crossings, bumps etc. and hood remains closed. Truly a hit and miss job. Thanks.
-
1
-
-
Bernie,The Bronx is upstate from Brooklyn!
-
1
-
-
Regarding the unprotected starter circuit. One of these days I will return my 55 to the carb starter setup(now a push button start). Can/Should a fuse be put in that circuit?
-
Using two large common screw drivers. I managed to get some of the bend out of the blade and I moved the pin up about a 1/3". The hood stayed shut for about 10 miles where it was popping at the end of the driveway. Then popped on a decent pothole. I think I am on the right track.
-
1
-
-
Adjusted pin up a bit and moved pin assembly back a bit. Didn't get a chance to test it, rain here. Did notice(see pics), that blade in receiver is curved down. That right or is it bent? There also appears to be a tiny dimple in the lip of the receiver.
-
Always something. The hood on my Roadmaster now pops when hitting a bump(of which there are many here in the NE). The secondary holds fine but it's still i PITA.
I have the lower receiver(?) adjusted all the way to the left. Looks like it provides the most friction there. The upper post(?) looks like it can be adjusted up or down a little bit and a bit of travel in the bolts,side to side.
Anyone encounter tis problem before?
Thanks
-
"People more flexible than me should experience the joy of redoing a rear main seal... and headliner and convertible top...
Willie"
I should start stretching before I do the headliner?
1955 Engine & Trans Temps
in Buick - Post War
Posted
I have noticed that if I drive less than about twenty miles the needle will stay a little below the "N" on the temp guage. If I go more than about 20 miles the temp gauge creeps up to, or just a tad past the "N". Never higher and no sign of overheating, even on a hot day with A/C on, even stop and go. I also noticed that while the transmission remains full, the fluid(Castrol Dex/Merc) looks to have thinned out on the dip stick. After sitting and cooling it goes back to thicker, darker red. All the while performance is fine.
Just want to know if any or all of this is normal?
Thanks,
Paul