Paul Falabella
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Posts posted by Paul Falabella
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Are the indented circles on all the dash knobs supposed to be painted white? I have seen that and think it looks good. Might do it anyway.
Thanks
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There is a spring loaded button on the side of the headlight switch behind the dash. Depress the button and pull out the knob. Remove the set screw and remove the switch.
The wiper control knob pulls out. Remove set screw to remove control.
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No problem, it's cold here!
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Always something.
Ignition switch install.Followed the service manual. Key in tumbler, tumbler slightly passed OFF, press in. Tumbler will not turn.
Is it possible to inadvertently change the tumbler code, preventing the tumbler to turn or am I missing something?
Thanks
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I am I correct seeing the same $5000 car being advertised for $12,500 and $24,000?
As I see it there are three kinds of cars. The cheap rats that need everything and probably never get finished. The expensive, completely done, needs nothing, local show winner, that is still less than a total resto.
And the 10-20 footer. The car that to the untrained eye is "mint"!. But actually still needs everything, though not as badly and will suck cash out of your pocket at a slower rate. Most of us have one of these I suspect. You can stop at any time but they are never done.
I would get the totally done, restored car.
Just my opinion.
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Is this the correct wiper switch? All pics I see have three outlet/valves plus the actuator cable, mine has four plus the cable. There was a small cut piece of vacuum line on the switch.
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The Sweet Stench(from the kerosene heater) Of Success!
Moving the steering column is the only way to reinstall the lower dash without destroying new paint on the column and dash(trust me on this).
The steering column can actually be moved about 3-4 inches, almost to the seat.And a little side to side.(is it any wonder the owners manual tells you to return the car to the dealer to adjust the wheel) A little tricky putting it back. I used the screw holes of the rubber toeboard as a guide while propping up the wheel.
The shielded bolts from column to the lower dash go in first.(trust me on this too)
A couple more wires and done. Next; door panels.
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Got it,thanks. Ya gotta be an archeologist on this car, someone went absolutely nuts with the undercoating.
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Are these the four bolts that need to be loosened to move the steering column? Thanks
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That's what I thought. Looks better chrome and much easier to produce. No masking, no paint and easier lettering. And more important, it would be easier for the guy returning the dash to original!
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Noticed a few pics online of the Heat/Def slider plates(in lower dash,rt. between ign. and glove box) that are chrome. Mine are painted, as are most others. They are chrome under the paint. Which, or are either correct? Chrome would look pretty cool.
Thanks
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Back of my garage. And this is NYC. Boston? Fugettaboutit!
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I moved the radio brackets and removed the L brackets at the ends. If that doesn't work, I will try the steering column adjustment.
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According to the shop manual, the steering column can be mechanically adjusted for height. Can't seem find how in the book. This may buy me enough room to more easily fit the lower dash. Anyone know how to do this adjustment?
Thanks.
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I am in the process of returning the interior painted panels to the original color as can be seen on lower inst. panel.
R&R of the lower instrument panel is not covered in the '54 body book. I removed it with some difficulty. Before I paint and make pretty, I tried to refit it. As I see the only way is to manhandle it which will scratch any new paint especially the steering column.
Anyone have any experience with reinstalling this part, newly painted with a newly painted steering column in place?
Could have painted it in place but thought removal would allow for a better finish, now I'm wondering.
Thanks.
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OK got it Thanks
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How is the Wiper/Washer switch removed from the dash?
Thanks
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Looks like you may have to take out the rear seat and remove the side trim panel, maybe the vent reveal trim as well. Unless you have access inside the trunk. Like the color combo btw. More pics when get a chance.
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All glass is either JX or KX which would be April and May of 1955. So using Seans numbers, there were 17000 odd more cars made in Atlanta after mine. I'd venture an educated guess late May or June 55 with glass and radio dates. Don't know what other dated components I'll come across but May 55 is the latest so far.
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Thanks Sean, I got it narrowed down to the last couple of months of production.
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That would be cool. Numbers are: B6053563 Body #BA-3023
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Before desludging the pan and pickup, the oil pressure guage would read a bit above "N" normal, till the car warmed up. Warm engine, slow idle was between Low and Normal. Driving the needle went to Normal.
Started the car today, let it run about 20 mins in the garage, needle stayed half way between N and H. Very little fluctuation between idle and revving.
Normal I'm assuming? Also valvetrain noise was noticeably less.
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Took dash out to paint and removed speedometer to clean. Speedo is the newest component I have found on car. Unit is marked "May 4 1955". Always thought the car was a late production car but can't get exact build date.
Also while taking the dash off I found out why I could never find Morgan Buick(dealer plate riveted to trunk says"Morgan Bros. Selma").
Found a pencil in a defroster duct for "Morgan Bros. Desoto-Plymouth Selma".
So someone traded in a Roady for a Desoto!
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If you are talking about the engine turned pieces on the dash, a fellow named Doug Seybold in Ohio does them. He always has an ad in Hemmings.
1955 Vacuum/Wiper Switch
in Buick - Post War
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This for sale on eBay. It looks like the one in my car. Most,if not all, pictures and diagrams show a controller with 3 outlets. Any one have a routing diagram for this?
Also what size(s) and how much vacuum hose do I need for the whole job?
The stuff is kind of expensive.
Thanks