garnetkid

I agree with Dave B as well. I had the same problem with my car a few years ago and it was the vacuum tank with perforations in the lower tank causing fuel to be sucked into the intake manifold. Take your vacuum tank apart and check it closely. they are not complicated.

Received some information today about a 1920's rear view mirror supposedly off a buick that had a compass in it. I have never seen on with a compass however I do believe there were some with clocks. Before I go look at it would like to know if there were oem mirrors with compasses or clocks or were they all aftermarket. Also what years were they offered. thought it might go well on my 25-45 if suited to that year.

What model is your buick?? that will make a difference. I have a good pair from a 1925 model 40 which is the master six two door sedan.

I am working on putting the rear window mechanisms back into my 52 chev 2dr sedan after having it apart for 2 1/2 years. It was tough taking it apart and I recall thinking it was going to be fun putting it back together. Until now I didn't realize how difficult it is. Has anybody done one recently and can tell me the sequence of putting it back together or is there a body manual that expains it. I have the shop manual but it does not mention that aspect. Thanks for any helpful tips.

tinidian, I suspect this is the car you a talking about as "Eleanor" as it is referred to by the owner lives not far from me and I have driven it on several occasions. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h97/garnetkid/36buick.jpg

Dave, Are you saying that on the 28's that both the master and the standard that the crank going through the bottom on the rad? I can allways tell a master from a standard without opening the hood by looking at the crank. If it goes under the rad it is a standard and if it goes throught it is a master. Is that different on the 28's. Just curious as I have not seen a 28 and I believe what I just said above applies to th 25, 26 and 27 model years.

I would say it's a 25-27 with only half a front bumper.

Dodge Brothers

The rear wheel spokes with every other one wider in the mid section looks like cadillac as well. By the looks of the older matronly lady on the right I wouldn't want to mess with her!!

You are welcome. I owned a 25-25 years ago and sold it when i acquired the 25-45. It was dark blue and black(fenders) My 25-45 only came in two colors Buick Grey and colbalt Blue. Nobody at the time could tell me what Buick Grey looked like so I chose another GM color from the late 20s called Gunmetal Grey and I looks great on the car. I suspect that Buick Grey was much lighter possibly more like battleship grey.

When I did mine all the parts were nickel plated and I was told that chome was not used until 1926. I don't have anything to confirm that now and don't know if that referred to all makes or just McLaughlin Buick.

I would bet that brewster is the darkest as sagebrush is very light.

I wouldn't call that square one, you are already half way there. Nice project.

There was no lead in the fuel in those years which is why valve jobs were done every 20,000 miles or so. Lead was used to lubricate the valves to keep them from "sticking" to the seats. I would run it till you need a valve job and then have hard seats installed if and when you need to have it done.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Old26Buick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just had the clutch in my 26 Buick standard rebuilt by Fort Wayne Clutch and it chatters badly, also sounds like throw bearing is noisy when pushing in clutch pedal. I install a new throw out bearing and pilot bearing. Could I have put it together wrong? It shifts good. Thanks for any help. </div></div> I assume that is the multible disc clutch in there that is the same as my 1925. I had mine relined as well and it never chattered. I have heard of fellows running them up against a solid wall and letting the clutch slip a little to get the discs to seat in so to speak. You will have to decide if you want to try that or get some advise from Fort Wayne clutch.

http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h97/garnetkid/img170.jpg Had a 64 electra like that years ago. Was a great car.

Depends on how much it is leaking whether or not you should repack it. I don't mind mine leaking a little as it acts as a lubricant on the shaft and keeps it from becoming scored or galled by a dry packing. Not hard to repack if you have to, just back off the nuts and replace the packing and tighten back up.

Ron, I sent you a pm.

Sorry, I should have looked closer at your signature. It would be fairly expensive shipping one from western Canada.

Where are you located Ron? Is it that you don't have a head or the one you have is not rebuildable?

I have an article on vapor lock hard hot starting that was written by a friend of mine, Dave Botting of Summerland BC that he developed to correct the problem on his 1936 McLaughlin Buick. Hope this attachment works. You may want to consider this as it solved his problem. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h97/garnetkid/img257.jpg

chevrolet used them into the early fifties as well

Thanks for the positive comments. Don't get discouraged with your projects, it can be done but it takes time. I am still looking for some parts for mine.

Dave, my 1925-45A McLaughlin Buick has serial # 94805 (I am fairly sure the first number is a 9 although it could be a 0. the engine # is 0016641. The 1925-45A model was originally fitted with the fixed "California top" with the in floor exhaust heater. I changed the top to a folding one which would make it the same as a 25-45 and removed the exhaust heater for safety reasons as it was in poor shape and would have been hard to reproduce or find a good original. Leon

Hi folks, just thought I would take the time to say Hi and to post a picture of my 1925-45 McLaughlin Buick that I restored from 1977 to 1984.