garnetkid

Well, after not being able to drive the 25 since putting it away last fall, and a road construction and water main installation which started last march we were finally able to take it for spin before putting it away for the winter. It certainly was nice not to have to dodge pot holes!! Hope the weather holds out a little longer, although there is already snow in the upper elevations.

You might want to check for leaks by using compressed air by taking an air hose at low pressure, 3 to 5 psi and putting the end into the filler neck of the fuel tank while sealing it off with a rag and your hand. If you have a leak sucking air this will force gas out that leak. Usually it is a poor seal at the gas tank end of gas line with the banjo fitting. Leon

aestorrs, seventy years of buick book calls "the model 41-c the Special Convertible Phaeton which used a trunk-back style rather than the fast back used in 1938. It was the lowest production model in the Special Series, with only 724 built for domestic sales and 106 built for export. It weighed 3,707 pounds and cost $1,406, and thus was also the most expensive car in the Special line." It is a four door with the rear doors opening from the front. Leon

Just a follow up to say that after I posted the thread I phoned Fred to let them know and he told me then that they were leaving for four days. So they should be back to respond to messages sent to them. Leon

These cars are not mine but belong to a friend who does not do computer "stuff". His wife Marilyn does emails. There is a 1923 Mclaughlin Buick model 23-54 asking $10,000 CAN There is a 1939 Buick model 41 asking $40,000 CAN There is a 1931 McLaughlin Buick model 65 asking 45,000 CAN and finally a 1924 McLaughlin Buick with a modern power train, asking $17,000. CAN The cars are located in Osoyoos BC which is a dry semi arid desert in the south west part of the province just across the US border near Oroville Washington. The owner Fred can be reached at 250 495 7579 or email marilynturner (at) telus.net

Werner, If you are referring to the vacuum wiper mechanism which also has the manual wipe handle here is a picture of mine on my 25-45. The wipe handle is the one on the right. Leon

Greg, I wouldn't dismiss the idea that yours is not original because of the convex shape, especially if you believe it has been restored. I had the rad emblem on my 25 buick done many years ago and it came back with quite a convex curve to it. I sent them another one with an explanation of the problem with it not fitting the radiator shell. Apparently the process of enameling requires a lot of heat, enough to warp the badge. The second one came back warped as well. I heated it to almost cherry red with my torch and held it pressed down to the proper shape with a thin straight edge using an anvil as a base until it cooled into the proper shape. Leon

I think that you should remove it from the car and do some bench testing. Get it so that it "motors" if it does that it will charge. much easier to play with it off the car to see if both starter and generator functions are working. Leon

Bill, we still haven't heard if the unit is charging when the engine is running??? Did you check that while on your drive. I ask because I had a similar problem with my 25-45 several years ago while on a lengthy road trip. The s/g would not rotate with the ignition switch on and I had trouble engaging the starter. It also wasn't charging. Turned out my armature failed in the generator portion and I had to located a good one, not easy to find. You might want to check with who rebuilt the s/g to confirm that the armature was checked with a growler and that all the windings were in good shape. Leon

Bill, you may just have poor contact with the brushes that make contact with the communtator level of the armature that acts as the generator and which should cause the armature to rotate slowly when the ignition switch is turned on. You should also see a positive charge on your gauge when the motor is running. If none of that is happening check the brushes to make sure they are making good contact and are not dirty/oily. Spring tension may not be strong enough for good contact. It is necessary to have that initial rotation to enable the starter gear to engage. Leon

Thank you Larry and Leif. Leon

I am looking for a new rotor to complete a bit of a tune up on my car. Bob's Automobile has the cap which I have on order. I have found a rotor advertised on another site for $150.00 (ouch!) Would like to know the part # , possibly Delco Remy, so that I can refine my search. I do believe that the part is the same for the standard six as well. Any leads are most welcome. Thanks, Leon

Tom, where are you located? Leon

Heillo Lief and to the rest of the members posting and looking for these fasteners. About 30 years ago I bought the ones for my 25-45 from Spaenaur which is a large fastener supply company in Canada. They have an online catalog and if you google them and and look at page M43 there is item 64C Socket. Unfortunately it is shown as not available. I sent them an email and asked it they they knew who made them. They replied the next day that they unfortunately do not have those records any more or who they sourced them from and were unable to help. I looked through my stash and found a couple of spares and so far one of my original ones which could probably be cleaned up and polished to look presentable. I looks like the only hope of finding some may be a major restoration facility like the one Mark refers to even though they don't show them in their catalog. And again if they do have them they may not want to part with any. The Reynolds Alberta Museum is such a facility and may be worth a try. Leon

For the record. This is what a 25-45 looks like. Leon

Kevin, about 35 years ago I had new sill plates made using a photo etching/engraving process on zinc plates. At that time I had to draw out on white art paper using black ink the pattern of the sill plates. The zinc plates are thicker than the original aluminium. I am sure that with todays computer technology that the process could be much easier. Look for a shop that does that type of work in your area and see what they can do. I am certainly happy with mine. You could probably include the part number as well. I never did with mine, they were in much the same condition as yours. Leon

Those things look like what farmers/ranchers put around the necks of problem cattle that like to go through fencing. That's my guess and I am sticking to it!!

You are right with it being a standard six Rod. I should have picked up on that, didn't pay enough attention to the pictures!! Leon

I just went out and had a look at my 25-40 parts frame and the measurements from backing plate to backing plate are the same (50in). the length of the drive shaft minus the ball attachment is 54" so I suspect that is very close to your measurement. If the diameter of your hub cap is approx 3.5 inches that would make it the large master series car as well. here are some pictures of mine. When Leif checks this file he may be able to shed more light on the numbers. I am also curious about the apparent factory painted on silver numbers that are still showing on mine after all these years. Leon

Thanks for the input guys and for the pictures Lief. I know who owns it so next time I see it I will get some numbers off of it. Leon

This Delco unit was at a fall fair today and we were trying to figure out what year/make it came from. I thought Buick first but it is backwards and older than my 25. Any ideas?

Thanks Leif for that info. I found another one with part #33976 with D2 below that. I took mine off my 25-45 and it has part #33976 with D1 below that number, it also has a plus (+) sign to the right and a letter G below the D1. It fits on my car and there appears to be no difference. the attached photos show the black one off my car, the glass beaded one with the same part # and the rusty one is part #33628. Leif, do you have info on #33976?? Thanks, Leon

I was going through my parts to see what I had in the way of the cover you are looking for and I have one with part #33628 with D 5 below that number. It is different from my 25_45 because the 25-45 has a cut out (rounded shape) that allows for the battery cable to connect. Maybe Leif can help in identifying what year this part is for. I know it is the same size generator/starter as the 25 Master as the armature is the same. You are welcome to it, for postage , if it fits. Leon

I have to agree with bubba, I had the same symptoms with mine (about 27 years ago) and fuel was being sucked into the intake via the vacuum line causing it to run rich. Could not figure that one out for a long time. I even resorted to flipping the intake and putting a down draft carb and an electric fuel pump on so I could drive it. Finally took a close look at the vacuum tank and found some small rust pin holes that I had to solder shut. It's been so long ago I can't remember where they were without taking it apart to have a look. It has been running well for a long time now. So if your double washers does not solve the problem take another look at the vacuum tank. Leon

Larry, did you buy the carb? Leon