car_chick

Check with your insurance (whoever it may be) and ask if you are covered for fair market/replacement value vs blue book. A few years ago I "totalled" my 1991 Jeep. The insurance company tried to tell me it was worth $1800. I asked if they used fair market value or blue book and they told me fair market value. I told the adjuster to find me a comparable vehicle for $1800 because he was off by about $1500. The next day he came out with a check for $2720, which was the fair market value of $3200 less 15% because I was keeping the vehicle. It was perfectly driveable and the damage was cosmetic except the radiator. Fixed it for about $600 and it's still going strong.

Fix a flat won't help if you have a blow out or more than a small puncture. And you can't always get cell service in some areas. We have a f/s spare and made a cover for it out of the trunk carpet from one of the parts TCs.

You can get rear springs for a Daytona from Carquest.

Had the same problem in my LeBaron GTS Turbo I. The coil pick-up wire was broken and shorting out intermitently. Identical symptoms.

I'm not sure what you're asking but you do need to get wheels made for front wheel drive cars. When shopping for wheels the books will tell you the applications they will fit, i.e. FWD vs RWD, bolt pattern, offset, etc. Go and talk to someone at a tire and wheel store who who primarily focuses on those item (meaning not autozone) and they can tell you more.

Your cable might be binding not allowing the mechanism to release or return to home. I really don't know what to suggest as far as lubricating the whole cable, but perhaps some graphite on the ends where the cable comes in and out of the casing (at the handle and at the latch) might work its way in and help things. Not much help and you probably knew that much already...

Another good thing you can use for routine interior cleaning is Murphy's Oil Soap. Smells good too. Not expensive and no petroleum or silicate products, which are bad for leather.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> proper cool down makes the turbo last longer. </div></div> Bingo. Cooked oil in the turbo is not good.

I would hardly use Jiffy Lube as an expert reference for ANYTHING to do with a car. You couldn't pay me to take my worst enemy's car there. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> when they look at the recommended oil, it doesn't say 15W-40 </div></div> That is of course assuming the guy at JL can even read. That being said, your own image shows very plainly that 15w40 is in fact a RECOMMENDED oil. That is the title of the chart, correct?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> if 10W-40 and 10W-50 are not recommended, what makes you think 15W-40 is any better? </div></div> Why don't you look at the image YOU posted a picture of? The chart that reads "Recommended viscosity grades"? Look at what is 2nd from the top.... <span style="font-weight: bold">15w40</span> Your own data, dude.

Negative battery cable may have an internal break you can't see. Alternator can be going bad or wiring to/from may be going bad. Voltage regulator can be going bad. Bad/loose negative ground. Loose connections to fuse panel. Fusible links may be going bad. Electrical gremlins are the worst.

They were never shiny on the showroom floor. More like the same "gloss" you find on new tires that haven't been armor-alled. If you have some dullness or drying, take some watered down armor-all and apply it with a rag. It will darken the colour without adding excessive shine or slickness.

I guess now is not the time to say I ran Castrol Synthetic 20w50 in my old LeBaron Turbo I for 230,000 miles on the original engine and turbo... <ducking and running>

That's sharp looking. Too bad Maserati didn't make the original umbrella like that; much more distinctive than the OEM TC umbrella.

Darrin, I've been out of town this past week. Do you still need the door lock actuator thingie? S

We've all had them. Had an opportunity to buy a Burgundy/burgundy/black 16v for a very good price before I knew what I now know about these cars. A tree had fallen on the car and damaged the driver's door pretty badly. My thought at the time was, "I'll never be able to find parts". Two parts cars later, I wish I'd bought it....

Yeah but you have salt mines everywhere up there. The stuff is dirt cheap. You think the Gubmint is gonna fork out $$ for more expensive stuff?

I think I have it, although isn't it supposed to have a rubber boot over the cylinder? Give me a day or 3 to check for it ok?

Darrin, Are you referring to the door lock actuator from inside the door? I have a complete driver's door and everything works on it, so I'm sure I have the part you need. I just need to verify what part that is.

I have a yeller one (non-OEM paint) with ginger headliner in VA

Butt, of course!

Brian, I'm 99.9% certain I have the part you need.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: TwinCamFan</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: car_chick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You don't need to go to a junk yard to get replacement rear springs. CarQuest sells new ones for 89ish Daytonas. </div></div> They HAVE to be the heavy duty or CS package Daytonas. Otherwise the wire is not larger than the TC springs. Not sure if Carquest sells the HD or not,personally I would rather hit the Junkyards, it's my therapy for a stressful day Alan </div></div> They are the HD ones. They are noticeably thicker than the stock TC ones and no more saggy behind!

You don't need to go to a junk yard to get replacement rear springs. CarQuest sells new ones for 89ish Daytonas.

Most likely fuseable links are the source. Check your fuse block itself for cracks or corrosion. It is unlikely, but not unheard of.