DAVES89

Why don't you take some pictures and post them? I'm sure a number of the members will weigh in with opinions.

I was delivering the seats to Mr Vinyl when my buddy started in. When I got back he had the lids off and the carpet off and the new carpet installed on the lids,as well as all the trim off, bins out, and all the carpeting removed.[i was gone less then 1 hour]. I am assuming they peel off like they do on the doors. Use spray adhesive [both the lid and the carpet and put new pieces in place, do the same for the bins themselves]. One thing I thought of after we were done was to use plastic bags filled with sand to force the carpet to lay tight against the interior sides and bottom of the storage bins. We tried gluing and holding the carpet with our hands, but that didn't work.The preformed carpet fits the bin it just isn't glued like from the factory. You will notice that there are staples holding the carpet on the back side of the bins. That we found later was something we did not have to restaple as the bin is held in place front and back with screws,and the trim fits over the sides and back. As you fold the carpet over the back of the bins you will see some puckering. Slice in the puckers and allow them to overlap. No need to glue on the back side,or worry about restapling as the trim and mounting screws holds everything well. Leave the front of the bin panel long so you can fold the new carpet up past the 4 screws on the backside. This way the carpet can't work its way back out. Do not drill thru the carpet, use a pointed punch or awl,ice pick,etc. You will have to at least double the length of the bin hinge screws, as well as go longer on the 4 screws that go into the front of the bin panel[because of the folded over carpet]. One note of a personal nature, my bins were dated 12/15/1988 and initialed D.C.L. which are my initials as well as 12/16 being my birthday. So this car could very well have been finished the next day which would have been my 32nd birthday. I bought the car on my 50th birthday. Pretty cool. Be very careful removing the trim pieces as these cars are old and the plastic is very brittle. Just snapping the plastic thresholds back in we cracked one and broke the other. Went to the u-pick yard got both for $5.00 painted them to match with the SEM spray paint[see my dash nightmare postings],and reinstalled. I will post pictures when either my wife or daughter comes home with a camera. One thing I apoligize for is not taking pictures while doing this. Just today via UPS recieved the 2-6'x2' carpet. It came as 1-6'x4' piece. Went to my upholstery lady and she would cut and sew them into floormats for less then $20.00. My mom has one of those computer sewing machines and maybe I can beg her enough to make me a few of those logos for on the mat.

I contacted carmotorsports.com I spoke to a guy named Chad. He was obviously new but tried to be helpful. Rather then wait for carpet samples,I told him what the interior Reatta color code was [in my case 66]. He checked with someone [maybe the owner?] and called me back and said it was a brown and they could order it out.[This makes me think they have a cross reference]. I ordered the complete kit package[front,back,door,and console pieces] at $239.95 plus $30.00 freight. When I got the packeage [2 boxes] I opened the small one up and was satisfied with the color and but did not check the pieces. About 2 weeks later I went over to my friends house and we started the job. While the carpet pieces are formed to fit, and they fit well,you have to do all the cutting. The pieces that are supposed to have backing do, and the parts that don't need backing don't. Overall I was pleased except for when we got to the console. My 3 console pieces were not cut right for the '88/'89. They may work for the '90/'91. Barney if you want them I will send them to you so you can check it out for yourself. Anyhow when we saw the console pieces were wrong I got on the phone and called Chad. He checked with the mill and as they thought that their pattern was correct all they could/would do is send 2-6'x2' pieces. Which I accepted. Because I refinished the old console pieces[and you barely see them anyway] I am going to have them [the 6'x2' pieces] made into floor mats. The color match is good,because when I took off the Reatta floor mat emblem,toflip the mat overthe color matched very well. Because of all the trim that needs to come off,and the cutting and fitting that needed to be done, It took us about 7 hours. [He did most of the work and carpting is basically a 1 man job]. I will post pictures as soon as I can. I hope I adressed most of your questions,please continue to comment and I wil respond.

I need the plastic seat belt covers that are located behind the seats up high. Must have all 4 pegs. How much. I will have to repaint.

Yesterday my mechanic friend and I did the carpeting. We bought from car-motor sports and the quality was good. Car looks great. Took much more time then I expected. One thing to caution on, check your pieces ahead of time. My console pieces were cut wrong[too short and fuse box holes wrong place/size]. Otherwise fit was very good and pieces were generously cut. [i went back to Dr. Vinyl and he repainted the console carpet out for me. Don't really like painted interior carpet but I started thinking about how hard it would be to get the new carpeting back on the console plastic backing pieces. So I went that way and that too looks good.] No longer do I have a "pink" carpet. Put in my Reatta floormats that I had been storing and the car looks great.Smells like a new car. The very last thing on my "to do" list is painting the car all the way around down to the body side mouldings. That will be this winter when I store the car.

I'm guessing that the "leak" is tied to the half shafts/drive shafts. The engine is new, the tranny has been worked on, they shouldn't be leaking. Unless of course it is tranny lines. Both half shafts can be put in in less the 2 hours and I am guessing less the $100.00 ea. on the half shafts.

It is stored in the ECM. Changing the cluster will not change the actual milage of your car.

What I would do is go back into the code area. Wait for BCM to pop up and hit NO until you get to clear codes hit YES. Then exit program. Go back in and then clear codes for ECM. The reset will also clear the current code for the low freon. You might get lucky and the A/C will work again. Otherwise you will need to get more freon if the code reappears.

No relay. Probably a bad panel. You could try cleaning the connection with contact cleaner and then grease the connection with electrical grease. If that doesn't work try Jim Finn,he would have a working IPC.

I agree with TDman. However that being said,it could work with the insurance companies. The base value on a printed book.

I think you have either an '88 or '89. What you are doing is going thru a system check on your touch screen thru the status hard button. When you get to that page it tells you what the warning signs look like. It does not mean you have a problem. If your touch screen has a self induced warning pop up on its own I would be concerned. To find out if you have a system problem, turn your key to the on position. Turn off both the radio and heating/cooling system. Then press and hold the off and warm buttons until the touch screen goes into dignostics. It will give you active and history codes. Report back with what you have.

I'll check your 2 suggestions tomorrow. The only reason the fog lights didn't work before was I took out the twilight sensor. As soon as I replaced the sensor and cleared the code I had fog lights.

This is getting weird. Twilight sensor in. Fog light switch on, only get running lights. High beam is not on. No twilight sensor code current or history. Interior dash pod lights work. What's up? I do have a c553h code I can't clear out. Any ideas?

Glad to help. You can buy me a beer. That'll even 'er up.

Where is Tommy?

Facing the motor, the front bank is from left to rigt is 1-3-5 The back left to right is 2-4-6

I am curious Padgett. Everyone else is interested in raising the lock out but you want to lower it. Also why change the TPS as well. Your thoughts please? Also for most of us with daily drivers that are interested in reprogramming our eproms, what are some recomendations?

Mine was running good, but when I saw the slime I knew my time was near to replace. I went to car-part.com and keyed in 1992 Pontiac Transport. This will tell all the ones that will work. Remember this was a project done by Padgett. His conclusion was that if it worked on his '92 it will work for the Reatta conversion. Remember it has to fit on both our mounting plate and fit in our harness. I went to the local u-pick yard, found one on a car marked motor good and grabbed it. Cost me $20.00

I agree. Those stripes are so wide and so so short the immediate thought that came to me was "chiclets". They look like chiclets sitting on the car. I know that sounded harsh, but I had stipes on 2 of my prvious cars, '66 Mustang and a '72 el Camino. I am not against stripes, just maybe something a little different.

What does he charge? And how do we get ahold of him?

I just switched out the coil pack and the maf sensor and was really thinking my gas mileage had dropped. Yesterday on the highway I cleared my '89s screens and checked it with a/c on. This was posted 55. Set crise for 62. I got 28.5 and now I am happy knowing that the gas mileage is what I was getting before. Car now starts on the first grind,but hard. Still working on that.

Go easy on us guys from Wi. Actually I know what "angle" iron is. I was referring to "corner" iron. Same concept only ready made w/holes. It is located in the hardware store. It will be aprox. 1/8" stock about 1/2" wide and comes in lengths of 1" to about 6". When I worked in a hardware store it was manufactured by a company called "National Hardware". This product was used for various repairs and came in both a flat and corner stock. If you have any questions I'll be at the bubbler. Regarding the removal of the photocell, in my opinion the answer is no. The windshield comes down too close and the vent grill is too narrow. The photocell is located in a fixed plastic bracket. Removing the bulb is like removing a typical automotive bulb in that you have to twist it to the opening and then push down thru the bracket. Then pull the bulb in the pigtail away from the bracket. All this in a very small area w/o a lot of clearance. Best thing to do is remove vent grill. Turn out the 3 #15 torx screws, slide in your new bracket puller, pull straight up, they come right out. Lift up the front of dash and unscrew the defroster hose,[finger tight using a 10mm socket, no use of ratchet]. Take off dash pad. The access is then very good.Check to make sure you have the clips that go on the plastic tabs. Replacement is as follows; 1]Put dash pad back in place. 2]Lift up front of dash to put defroster vent hose back in place using 10mm socket[use no ratchet] 3]Set dash back in place 4] Turn in the 3 #15 torx screws 5] Snap front of dash pad back in place w/direct downwrd pressure of your hands 6] Set vent grill back in place,tuck in near edge first,press down on back edge until you here it snap in place. Standard disclaimer; This is only a guide on what has worked for me.

Probably the easiest thing to do is go to your local hardware store and buy a 2 1/2" corner iron. Bend one end in a vise at a 90 degree angle then grind that newly bent end down to aprox 1/8". That is all there is to it. No need to drill holes like the guy did on FAQ. I know this one works well because I had to go to my loal u-pick yard to pull another dash apart to get the little metal hold down clips that go on the plastic tabs. Slid in no problem, pulled straight up and nothing broke. One other thing,don't start in the middle,start at one end,pull to release clip, slide to the next one, etc... REMEMBER You still have to remove the little vent cover and the 3 #15 torx screws that hold the back part of the dash pad in place,before attempting to do the front.

It has on one end a lip of 1/8" to allow it to fit between the dash and dash pad. Then bent at 90 degrees for 2 1/2" and then a bend of 90 degrees for a length of 1 1/2" The width can be 3/4 to 1" I will post a pic when someone comes home and will post for me. This tool allows you to pull straight up with no damage to either the dash pad or panel. I got the basic dimensions from the FAQ on the Reatta.net and made some changes.

OK my little episode with twilight sensors and dash pads is over. Here is what I learned. When I bought my car all the front clips were broken on the dash pad. So while I was out at the u-pick yard I found a Riv [with good clips], painted it and put it in. My wife said the repaint color was too far off so out it comes. Pried instead of lifted staight up and cracked both the dash pad and the dash. Repainted the dash a different color[my wife is now happy] put back in the pad w/o the twilight sensor, discovered that the fog lights would't work. I made a dash pad puller tool, [used that,works great!] no additional damage to either pad or dash. Before reinstalling, the car went to DR. VINYL and he repaired and touched up everything to original, put the pad and defroster cover in and my dash looks close to new. They have a new product to restore the leather seats and I am going to try that next week when I replace my carpeting. I will keep you posted.