Steve_Mack_CT

Restorer, Bruno Kaplan's number is 860-668-7716

Oldiron, that would make my '68 Cutlass a phaeton, I believe! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/cool.gif" alt="" />

I know of two models of 2-door phaetons off the top of my head, the 30-31 Ford A (a great bodystyle!) & the Jeepster. They both fit the criteria other than doors. I do not think there is another proper name for this unusual style. I think Jeepster is the last American made pheaton & the Dodge Wayfarer would be the last American roadster?

Karl, the Dodge Boys (& gals) out there can best asses the price but it does not sound like you are to far off. One thing I would recomend is that if this has been in the family a long time, and you know the provenance to a degree, I would place some value on this. Everyone who posts here can talk of cars that slipped away - my only point is, if you are off a few hundred bucks or whatever, you should seriously consider the car itself, and the family history in the decision. I helped talk a guy out of selling a '61 T-bird, 3rd generation in the family, to help with some bills, yeah, a few grand helps with those college costs, but once the car is gone, it can never be replaced. Good luck!

This is interesting - I personally like the term "Tourster" better than either, but I do not think that is a recognized standard body type. A quick look at my literature confirms Ford officially called the open T a Touring model right up to 1927, and changed the 5 passenger open car model to a Phaeton with the release of the A in 1928. While open Fords fit the definitions given above, my bet is this was more to capitolize on the term. Phaetons began showing up in ads for late 20s upper end cars. In this era Ford wanted to embrace style and emulate the pricier cars. I do not know exactly when cars like Dodge or Chevrolet began using the term. Designated model names may have as much to do with the manufacturer looking to present a sporty or contemporary image than with the technical body description. Not to split hairs, I am curious - does AACA or CCCA draw any distinction? What I mean is, if a Buick is a Phaeton by model designation but not by definition, I don't think there is any class difference other than "Open". I do see how this distinction may make a big difference in terms of value on a Packard or other Classic, but wouldn't literature identify each model? There seems to be a tendancy to call all open 4-door cars of the early Classic era Phaetons, you do not see too many Packard Touring cars advertised in most publications. So, are the manufacturer's specifications or a source like the catolog mentioned above serve as the best guide? Of course I am at a loss to explain the logic behind the use of the term to name the much newer VW "Phaeton"..

"Saw it by accident", hmm, sounds more like you saw a bad accident.. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Ghost, it sounds best kept original given your description. I had assumed it was a "standard" phaeton, but this will be an interesting car to see! A treat for us "A"ers..

I think the RHD would be less desirable in most cases as the other guys point out. I do not think there is too much to be done to properly convert and he will probably realize around 15 or even 20% in terms of price difference should he ever sell. So it may be worthwhile doing at some point, he would probably be ahead of the game even if he has someone do this for him. Of course if he does confirm over time that the car is original and wants to keep it 100% original that is a big factor. Renninger's Model A & Schwalm's Babbitted Bearings are two Lancaster area places he may want to get familliar with. Your friend will find these are simple and rewarding cars to work on, this is basic advice but he wants to join at least one of the National clubs (they are similar, most belong to both); join a local and get at least one basic handboook. I like Les Andrew's Model A Mechanic's Handbooks myself because they are sort of spiral bound, with fairly good sized print - easy to keep on a workbench. Lastly, he can check out Ahooga.com & Fordbarn.com - similar in format to this site but much more heavily visited by Model A folks. What year is it? Any Pix?

So did the '71 Corvette I once had .. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/crazy.gif" alt="" /> I wonder if he took into account the mediocre construction these cars seem to be known for new. If you add all that HP and weight from power ash trays and such, it probably does not help..

That sure looks like a great start, '36 - looks solid, complete and original other than your dissasembly so far. So many of these cars have been cut and changed to modern drivetrains, etc. - to each there own but you have something that does not show up every Sunday at the shows. Rod it and it will probably not be as desirable as the Ford/Chevy bodies these guys like in the end. It will cost you as much or more as a Ford based rod if you cannot buy as much out of the box stuf and need to fabricate more, etc. Restore it, and you will have saved a great example of a desirable everyday (for the day) bodystyle that is now pretty rare. Just a thought, good luck either way..

I must say the workmanship seems top shelf but how do you get that irreplacable old car feel with everything new but the reworked sheetmetal. I can't help but think this must feel like a new Caddy XLR convert or a Corvette to drive. One thing I like about the older stuff is it feels so differently from what we now drive every day.

Anyone have an idea of what a nice set of Trippe Juniors is worth? Don't need perfection, but must be complete & presentable - Passed on a set that was complete except for one bracket $125, shells looked kind of tough. Thanks, Steve

Hmm, I aspire to own a Classic Packard and now that this link has turned to Duesenberg stories I know what Packard guys daydream about. I thought some of you may enjoy this link. This is the best "find story" I have read lately, and a great overall site if you have a half hour or so. Note the price paid for this car in 1947, princely sum of $450 for what looks like a pretty nice convertible sedan back then, a style I think even more unusual than a phaeton. http://www.classiccars.ws/articles/barnfresh/duesn2.htm Also, I do have to say we are somewhat different from rodders, Consider this comment intended in good humor. Half of the rodders are buying modern glass bodies and repro frames, then they scour the countryside looking for NOS and authentic period parts to put on these new nostalgia rods. Half looking at rare original cars, cut them up for the bodies and add modern parts everywhere else. So, half the time both of these contingents are doing OK, we just need to help them a bit.. Seriously, even these higher end rods of today are in my mind in more danger of depreciating over the long haul; look at the state of the art hot rod of the 70s or 90s - not really in demand today, and many go cheaply to be rebuilt into today's standards. These cars are purpose built and when the tastes change, they are subject to the same loss of interest as any other type of car. Now look at Restorations. State of the art has improved dramatically over time, and older restorations make great drivers until the time comes to re-do to today's standards. Originals are always sought after. Way back in this thread Restorer32 comments about his clientele, which I find very encouraging. From recent articles in Antique Automobile I would say AACA is doing its part also, a good thing. But if those Classics do come down just a bit in the next 3 - 5 years....

Tom, check out this site: http://www.classiccars.ws/index.html Sounds like a great car!

6686 - let me know if you ever want to part with your car for the price of a used toyota! Love the fact that, from your postings you have held and enjoyed your car for many years. Unfortunately I agree some Classics may be lost to rodders, a fact those of us who own lesser cars are already dealing with. With Model As right now we are seeing more cars coming up for sale where you can get everything but the body, never mind that there are several choices out there for repro bodies for these guys. I understand the cache of a period correct car, but still hate to see good drivers/restorations ruined like this just for an "authentic" body. So parts are coming down right now, but complete cars going up. This is a mixed blessing as I have seen some folks able to restore their cars correctly using rodder's discarded stuff - but bad overall. These cars peaked several years ago but seem to be coming back. So what does that mean for Classics? While I agree that the typical owners of Classics now are aging, I hope some segment of the yourger set makes that move from casual enthusiast (maybe one 60s car, car of your youth, etc.) to collector, appreciating other eras. I would still like to add a Classic (Packard, but a non-Classic will do - I am watching a friend's 40 120) to my small collection, and maybe even a brass car at some point. I am not the only guy in his 40s who appreciates these cars, but again, my hope is that some of my peers look beyond the 60s (nothing against those, got one, but it is enough..) at the great older cars out there. Just my 2 cents..

There is a '39 that is for sale locally - $6,500 supposed to be a very nice truck, but unrestored. Has been offered in HMN a couple of times, so I am thinking that is high to start with. Can't tell from the picture but the body should drive cost a lot - not just rust free, but since this is a truck, just how straight is it? Maybe $3,000 range to start? Generally better to get an idea of what the seller thinks most of the time IMO. (This truck is bringing back memories - my '41 was bought for something like $400 and probably spent less than $1,000 in total, including four WWW 650-16s from Sears & green plaid seatcovers bought at Hershey for I think $15. This was a budget "restoration" done by a teen, those days are long gone...) Good luck with it.

This looks like a nice start, IT. I had a '41 Plymouth sedan (first old car, in around 1978) and while not the fanciest vehicle, I thought it was mechanically a pretty decent set up all around. If you are new to Mopars of this vintage don't bust a stud trying to remove the wheels - they thread the opposite way on these vehicles, I am sure the truck is the same! The flathead six was pretty well built, and mine ran smooth with a lot of miles. Not sure if this would be your first project but parts should be no problem, and you seem to describe a complete unaltered vehicle with no rust - an ideal project car. Not too fancy interior and not a lot of chrome work to be done on these, but they are getting very popular. Also, "Thank You" for looking to restore this - another reason I think this is a find is a lot of people would want to cut this up. Hope you pursue it!

To remove the mouse smell try some baking soda in a dish, it will absorb the nasty oder to some degree. Potpouriie (sp??) will hide the smell but not remove it. here is a tip I learned about to prevent this that seems to be working well for me this year, try using recycled "bouce" or simillar fabric softener sheets instead of mothballs. Mice generally don't like the scent and it is not as overpowering as the mothballs come spring. May sound off the wall, but I also noticed the local newspaper's "car expert" ran this same suggestion in his column last month. I put these sheets on the floor and other areas and so far no tell tale signs of the little critters.

I am 99% sure this car sold - I believe I saw a sold sign on it late Thursday. Stuck in my mind as I had stopped to take a peek earlier in the day, and remember thinking about the sold sign later as it seemed like 18,500 was a pretty strong asking price. The car was complete, but looks a little better in the picture in the Antique Automobile (also pictured in Feb issue HMN) than I think a close inspection would reveal IMO. Most or all wood looked like it will need replacing, but it is all there for patterns at least. Nice lines, though, and certainly will make a beautiful car upon completion.

Does he know there are still one or two items in the garage that he can still pile on the car if he tries hard enough?? <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/grin.gif" alt="" />

Cowboy, I think these guys have it covered but you can try posting your question on www.fordbarn.com, like Ahooga, this site has some guys who are very knowledgable and recognized restorers. Good luck with your research & your project ~

Susan's comment on the Chevy/GMC trucks reminds me of when I was a kid in the 70s - we would go down to the Chevy dealer in the center of town and look at the new trucks - once in a while you would see a half badged truck, usually the tailgate. But for years Chevy and GMC really did not need to worry about brand recognition, the GMC-Chevys only allow GMC to offer light trucks alongside their primary market of big trucks. I unbderstand that but styling and personality are part of the domestic makers trouble today. Agree, Chrysler seems to be among the style leaders today. I think Cadillac has come out with some distinctive cars of late also. If they share platforms they are not sharing bodies with any of the other GM cars now. Dissapointing to see so many try to follow Japanese designs, which are clean but generic at best.

I would not worry too much about the darkened oil, and if you are changing that frequently you don't need to worry about moisture getting in there or the lack of a filter. Those Buicks were well built, IMO. Glad to hear you are also maintaining the car in it's current state. I have loved pre-war since I was a teen, although in the 70s - 80s the emphasis was on restoration. Regularly driven cars, or originals with some patina did not command the respect they do now. I appreciate a 100 point car, but also appreciate keeping a clean original or older restoration and enjoying it also. Good luck with both vehicles!

Zondac, first let me tell you I think it is great a young guy has such a strong interest in a pre-war car, keeping it in nice, stock condition- it is a beauty to say the least. Enjoy it. My guess is you are not trying to correct anything, just assist the engine in lasting as long as possible. Sometimes it is hard to resist the urge to do something when you may not need to. I know lots of Model A guys running lead substitute that don't realize there was no lead in that era, and forward including yours. I am really not sold on how effective lead is in lubricating valves from this era as they were not initially designed for that, although the Marvel is designed for just that, and is still available. Realistically, in today's improved roads (less dust, etc.) and improved oils you should be fine. If anything I would drop in a little of the Marvel when you need to top off your oil, and change it a few hundred miles later. I would stay away from any additives designed to fix what is not broken. Sometimes you can create trouble trying to free up deposits that if left alone will just sit there 'till the eventual rebuild, that break loose and cause trouble. The absolute best preventive work you can do for your engine is frequent oil changes, and if available, add a filter to it.

Dave, I think it would be very difficult to have 29-29 bumperettes on 30-31 brackets, and if you could get them on, I do not think it would look right. If you look at the shape of the '28-'29s, they "hook in" quite a bit where the end would mount to the brackets. I think the '30-'31 brackets would come out too far to work. I believe the rear bumper brackets differ a bit by body style as well as by the two series of model year. A couple years ago at Hershey I was looking for both front and rears for my '30 - slightly used better than new for my 30 year old reso - anyway, I tripped over '28 - '29s for two days - of course, if I wanted the '28- '29s it would be the other way around! Since prices are simillar I totally agree with your strategy, car will look much better with the right ones on there. Used brackets are around and generally cheaper than the repros. The only other thought - buy the bumperettes first and then try them, but I am 99% sure it won't work to your satisfaction.. You probably already know this, but the 19s tend to be a bit sturdier, although you trade a little top end speed with the shorter tires for better handling. You could move those with no problem if you decide to go to 21s.