Steve_Mack_CT

Dave, I would have to say that most of my favorite (pre or postwar) designs have remained relatively constant over time as well. Left off the MG "T" series because it is really a carry over car for all practical purposes... Pontiac '53 not sure I understand your comment - how can one's favorites be too broad or narrow? I mean, the sole criteria as I understand it is the cars be postwar and what designs you like? My list could be longer, but I just hit what was at the top. On my list I chose to keep off non AACA eligible cars but I think there have been some very attractive cars penned in recent years as well, particularly some of the American "retros" or for a totally fresh look the Audi A-5, which I think is the perfect, modern day "personal car" - a segment that used to thrive.

In thinking about this the old rule of thumb comes to mind that the best original designs are tough to improve upon. Some cars that come to mind include the '55 - '57 T-bird, '61 - '63 Lincoln, '64 - '66 Mustang, Series 1 Jaguar E Type, and all of the Mercedes SL series, each a fresh design rather than a facelift. The subsequent facelifts on those models, particularly the American ones IMO were not as pure as the initial design. There are a few exceptions, the TR4 to TR6 transition comes to mind. But usually, it seems a hallmark of a great design is that it is tough to improve on.

Auburnseeker, PM sent a couple days ago, no worries either way, just have not heard back from you.

The deal of the century on a nice MG T series or XKE Jaguar. Gas and oil smalls, factory shop manual or other trinkets for the SL. Catch up with some forum and other AACA friends.

I think it would be fun to flood the spammer's inbox with strange requests for antique auto parts - "I have been looking high and low for original cowl lights for my doodlebug, I understand they came with them, do you have any?" or "I need wooden wheels for my XKE, can you help"? etc. thoughts? I know, probably would not be a good reflection on the site, and I guess you would not want the spammer to get your URL, but he definately deserves it...

Hey folks, this lot is available less the Distributor for $175 delivered to Hershey. That seems like a good price for those who deal in parts. Let me know. Thanks, Steve

Chris, good link. Those who do enter the trades will be laughing all the way to the bank in a few years, I think... Were you "active" in the hobby prior to getting your car? If not, I bet interest was there, just a question of money and time. I believe there will always be a number of people who have the interest - I wonder if the Professor who gave this assignment has stopped to ask why this is so important?

BTW - it has been said 1,000 times but a lot of younger enthusiasts, collectors and hobbyists don't have time or maybe as much interest in clubs (although AACA is still growing as has been stated) - since the Model A was referenced I will state one example I know I have on this forum before but it is germain to the conversation. I am 48, had my stock model A from around age 38 to 45 and may yet buy another one. I know of 6 within a 2 - 3 mile radius of my semi-rural neighborhood. 1 guy is younger than me, two around the same age, three older, only one of them, I think, is past 70. My point is these remain popular cars that span a few generations, and two of those guys as well as I have sons with some level of interest - these are all 100% stock cars, BTW. I think I happen to be the most involved in clubs but most of these guys belong to something (AACA, MAFCA, MARC, etc.), for whatever that is worth. Many are happy to just get the magazines.

Interesting, Helfen's examples of what pass for education are a bit different then reading about the Industrial Revolution and modern industry/technology when I was in school, seems like the 70s was not that long ago... Even then we were introduced to environmental concerns, but it did not dominate the conversation - what you are seeing today is propaganda, not education. That said, I think declining membership/interest is a bit overblown. This is not a cheap hobby and many cannot get involved until a little later in life. In any event, a certain percentage of those kids with modern special interest cars will likely become collectors. Collectors, to me, look beyond cars of thier youth, and some will embrace many different eras as we are seeing now with the resurgance of brass car interest. Simple answer to lowering the average age of membership (which I do not see as a big issue) is for all members to take time to chat with interested parties of any age. A ride in your collector car can't hurt, either.

In case you guys were not aware of this site: Mercedes-Benz Pontons (1953-1962) © www.mbzponton.org

Hi Jim, I have seen your postings here and on BaT, by the way, having just sold a simillar Packard and being an MB SL fan & owner I think our tastes are simillar. Glad to hear your Packard is ready for the road. We were very pleased with the Firestone WWW on our 120, sourced from Universal. FWIW I think any handling advantage of rads will be negated by the natural limits of the car and no matter what the manufacturers of them say, you can spot them at 20 paces - they just do not look right on a prewar car to me. We did tubes but no flaps and never had a problem, and that is how the car was set up before, as well. I did use flaps on a Model A but that was due to wheel design, If you are concerned about the inner wheel surface you can also go the duct tape route, but unless it is rusty you should be fine with just the tubes. Show us some pics when the car is ready to go!

I see now there is only one roadster, and I think a pick up in the background. The P/U is not worth 8-10 K though, I would say a couple grand less but that is just a swag since there it not much detail to go on. Hope you sell the roadster - make a few dollars and see it go to a good home. Too nice in "rat rod" I think - make a couple dollars on this deal and you can get one already "ratted out" on eBay any day of the week and have less work to do - everyone wins...

Charles, geographics may play into the price ranges to some degree. In general terms, while these are all over the map, decent, #3 30 - 31 roadsters can be had in the 18 - 22K range, and I am aware of an older restoration locally, not running but looking nice at around $12K. You will see higher prices on these but there are so many around I would go with what appears to be the prevailing price for a frame of reference. These look like interesting projects, maybe in the $8 - 10K range per, since you are likely buying to resell, I might go in at a bit less, especially if you are bringing an offer to take both. Assumes these are as solid as they appear in the pics. Like I said, not rare cars but a relatively strong following, and not too many original roadsters left in unrestored condition. Good luck - are you looking to restore or resell?

Marrs, hope this plays out to your satisfaction. I bet you are planning on prepping this way but prior to the meeting I would: Know exactly what the lease language is. Have an accurate count of the other "leakers" in the covered parking area. List them and politely expect that if your being singled out, all others should comply as well. A big plus is that you are in a "car oriented" area, even if it is also known for being a bit "earthy, crunchy green"... Interestingly, these two factions seem to mix ok in your area. I would indicate an appreciation for their willingness to meet, but not be overly appreciative. After all, you are (I am sure) a valued tenant and they are the ones taking your time with an issue that would otherwise not require the time and energy on your part to resolve. That said, some flexibility like maybe moving to an alternate but still covered space may make sense. If all else fails, I would consisder taking that burdonsome MB off your hands so you don't have to move...

Sounds like it may be beyond a routine service, but these cars often respond well to a filter and fluid change. I would check out the R107 section of the "Benzworld" forum, if anyone can help, these guys can: R/C107 SL/SLC Class - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum

Auburnseeker, did you double check the polarity of the coil? Just a thought based on symptoms you describe. Coil will work with reversed polarity, but not perform well under load.

There are lots of "107" chassis cars out there. A very low mileage example can easilly run into the 20s or more but there are plenty of decent cars under $10K out there, likely they will either need some mechanical or cosmetic attention, but nothing overwhelming if you shop carefully. Parts for the earlier Pagodas and 190 Sls are more expensive. These are well supported by both MB and several parts houses, and prices are typical - not outrageous. The buyer's guides and MB forums are a great resource. We like the older SLs also, but are having fun with this one right now...

No bleach but as Restorer says nasty stuff to smell and mix that with the brake dust cleaner I use on alloys and you really have to come up for air after each wheel!! BTW - Bleache White, IMO is also one of the most effective BW cleaners I have seen, much better than these "one step" cleaner/conditioners so popular now.

Yes, I kind of like the XJS also, but was concerned about Jag reliability. Your 20 - 22 MPG estimate may be optomistic, to be honest - except the 280 - 300 six cylinders which are around but not in nearly the numbers of the 450 - 380 - 560 V-8 cars expect mid teens for MPG. My SL however, accelarates almost as fast as my '71 Corvette did, the 380s are not that fast, but any of them would make for great comfortable cruising. I dropped you my contact info via PM, if you do have any more questions. PS - they say there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes, well, I bet a $7K Rolls in project shape could prove that saying wrong - I understand the brakes are a very complicated arrangement in that era, and a brake service runs around $5,000!!! OUCH! I like the older Bentley and RR cars, which I understand are not quite as ridiculas in terms of complexity/expense.

Yep, IMO what you are trying to do is a little different than restoring a clean look to old tires. I had a set of nice new 4" WWW Firestones on my Packard which I tried to drive in nice weather only, reality is the occasional car show field, road film and even just junk from the garage will force you to want to clean them at least a couple times a season. Tried a couple things, same thought pattern, as I only would wash the car if it got caught in the rain, etc. I found Bleache White is incredibly effective on new WWW especially if the surface is unmarred. I used that and a light bristle brush, no abrasives, etc. and paper towels to dry the tire and the inevitable water that gets into the wheelcover or trim ring area, etc. Go back after a half hour or so to collect the water that will settle at the bottom of the rim area. You asked for experience and IMO the wipes, etc. don't cut it. If you hardly drive the car you are only looking at doing this 2 - 3 times a season. No doubt you store indoors but try to keep them out of the sun. Tough to beat that look on the right car. The mineral spirits restoration trick Barry W. posted some time ago is effective, but unnecessary for your application.

Bryan, while I have a 560 SL - it is one of the "107 chassis" series and I am pretty familliar with these cars. I see the car is no longer on Gullwing's relatively quick changing inventory page - congrats if you did buy it, otherwise I would happilly help you find another. (Much better choice than the Jensen Healey you were musing over... ) PM me for a lot of detail if you want it, but in short here are 3 bits of advice: Buy the best example you can afford/find. Repair/restoration costs are not quite as bad as the hype, but not the cheapest car to work on either. This rule applies to most cars, some more than others, and I would put these in the "more than others" category. Aside from usual issues, timing chains and subframe on the pre-560 cars are big issues. MB will actually still repair a 450 SL subframe as it has a weakness that has been identified for years. Desirability: Early 450 SLs due to being first in the series, small bumpers. Mid-late 70s - some issues such as location of catalytic converters, etc. make them less desirable and a tad more trouble prone. Last years for 450 SL - '79 - '80 better as they represent the best refinements of the iron block 450 SL series. '81 - -83 380 SL, smaller aluminum V-8, single row timing chain a weakness. '84 - '85 380 Sl, a better bet due to MB moving to a double row chain arrangement. Still the lowest HP of the series. '86 - '89 560 SL, 227 HP, subframe issues fixed. Generally considered most desirable along with the very first 450 SLs. Many conveniences with the vintage look. '88 - '89 third brakelight placement a bit less ackward. FWIW we did some basic sorting, and a real good clean up, and have logged 3,000 miles on ours this season, a real fun, comfortable car to drive. Thought I would be more or less anonymous in it but actually it draws a lot of attention. F40 (Wayne Carini's place) has a nice 450 ready to go for less than $10K. Hope this helps.

Thanks guys, clay bar seems to be a good first step on the daily drivers. I was dissapointed cleaner wax did not seem to do the trick this time, but may have let too much time pass between waxing for it to be enough of a solution. Not sure I need it on the SL, as paint is smooth and very glossy with the exception of the surface scratches and a couple of chips here and there. Marrs, I agree, painting this car right would likely cost 3 - 4K, and given we put 3,000 miles on it so far this season, I would likely end up with some new imperfections and be right back where I started, without original paint. Will be working on the scratching and chips though, as all I did so far was a hand polish.

Not at present, however, born in 1963; have had a handful: 1930 Model A Ford Tudor Sedan 1939 Chevrolet Four Door Sedan 1939 Packard Four Door Sedan 1941 Plymouth Two Door Sedan 1948 Chevrolet Business Coupe 1956 Chevrolet 210 Two Door Sedan All were in original or restored to original condition; no hot rods. I have a list of post 1963 collectible cars as well - I like certain cars from just about all eras. Currently interested in a handful of cars, all but one were born before me...

So I have not used the clay bar process before, but am interested especially for my clear coat daily driver Audi & Mrs' BMW. Am I correct that this is a more aggressive cleaner than "cleaner wax" - I am suspecting it may be between that and a buffing wheel? Any thoughts as how this process compares to "clear coat compound"? Not sure I need this for the single stage paint on my SL, which has some scratches that I woudl like to work on, overall the paint is very smooth, and the areas I want to address have scratches that do not seem to penetrate the paint. The issue of course, is always how much material to remove - is it worth it to thin the paint to address some minor scratches? I have heard, and it seems to me that the paint on these is fairly thick, but I am really not sure. I am 99% sure it is original paint. Sorry to get off topic but I figure it is close enough if anyone has any suggestions. Thanks,

Thanks Bob. Yep, the TF belongs to a friend of a friend, if we were serious I would work through my buddy to make an intro - But that price gets you really close to a pretty nice TD ready to go. TC would be my favorite though, still kind of researching. The TC pictured above was in Sunday's concours, and was a really nice car. Fun to see all the race prepared T series cars as well. Of course I would appreciate any leads from your corner of the state, sir! Steve, the Airline coupe may belong to Wayne Carini, I think I have seen it at his place before.