W_Higgins

There is no curse. I have the Maintenance Manuals for '60, '64, and '66 and the procedure is very clear about how to remove the oil filter adapter. One of the best things about Lincolns of this era is the service literature. I have found very little fault with it.

Funny you should mention that. Recently I ran across this car for sale and it is truthfully advertised as a "tribute car". Why someone would go to the trouble I do not know because the real thing isn't really much more money than a regular production car. It is refreshing to see that this seller is truthful about what it is.

I keep records on Hess and Eisenhardt converted '59 and '60 Lincolns and steer clear of the term "rare" simply because I don't want them equated to the multitude of more common cars that are described as such. In the context of their era they were few, and today, compared to their regular production counterparts, they have a pretty high survival rate. On my list there are over 50 accounted for by VIN out of almost 300 produced, so about 20% remain. Every once in awhile one unknown to me will appear, but that's slowing down. What's most interesting to me is occasionally someone will call to discuss their car and some either simply don't listen or they deliberately take out of context the information I've given them, then the newly invented factoid winds up in print on the web when they post it for sale or what have you. These are things I can track and tell you exactly where they originated. After that, I can watch the mistake get repeated when other cars come up for sale and somebody grabs the information off an old listing and repeats it as fact. This is even seen with notable auction and consignment outfits in their flowery descriptions. That's the long way of saying that what is rare is scholarship and most everything else is just used car dealer salesmanship.

Hershey sale price -- $225.00 delivered to my spot on the field if prepaid.

See what a positive thing this is? Now while you're in there you can rebuild the A/C! Given it's history, washing out the pan would be a good thing regardless. Looks relatively untouched if still having the shield around the fuel pump is any indication.

I still have the Maintenance Manual from when I owned my '64 and I would think for this '62 is the same. It doesn't say that you have to remove the hood or radiator and thinking back about it they do seem to have more room up front than the '59 - '60 to which I am accustomed. If you have A/C you'll have a little extra work to do to gain access, but otherwise it's essentially unbolting everything from the front of the engine. Since you don't know anything about the car, I'd say pull the pan first to see what you can see. If you find it full of shavings or you can see enough looking up to satisfy yourself that it has a steel gear, then you can decide where to go from there. It does indicate that for a '64 you have to disconnect the motor mounts and jack the engine to pull the pan.

By all means, test the oil sending unit and anything else in the circuit. However, know that nylon timing sprockets failing is a when-not-if situation. The replacements today are all steel and perhaps that's what you already have, but if you don't have some documentation the only way to know is going to be to take a peek inside. The nylon sprocket failing is a when-not-if situation. If you haven't already done so, do yourself a favor and buy a copy of the factory Maintenance Manual. You'll need it in the future even if you don't need it now. It will cover the necessary steps to pull the front cover. It's possible with the pan removed you can look up from underneath into the timing chain area to see what you have. At any rate, pulling the front cover shouldn't involve removing the engine from the car. Probably just remove the hood and radiator to gain access. Be careful running it to diagnose this issue. If your oil pick-up screen really is plugged up, you may indeed be pulling the engine to do more than you have to do right now....

I believe '61 is the first year they went to the dreaded "nylon" timing gear. What you describe is consistent with when one bites the dust and the chips plug up the intake screen on the oil pump.

Often overlooked is the recession of '58, which started at the beginning of the model year. At least that's the excuse to which we Lincoln owners gravitate.

Whatever the case, even if you were able to persuade him to follow through, I've rarely seen it where the responsible party walks away satisfied after all the needless complication. Shake the dust off your feet and move on, then pursue that Lincoln that is beckoning you. You will be better off for it.

Just walk away from it. The ball is in his court. For a few years I watched a pair of dealers jerk people around like this. Some people are just incapable of saying, "No thanks" or "I'm sorry but I changed my mind" so instead they'll drag people around trying to wear them out when they really have no intention of following through in the first place. Regardless of whatever underlying psychological reason this phenomenon occurs, you are not at fault. You rolled out the red carpet and that's why it seems such a mystery to you.

No worries. I don't bruise as easy as some.

I don't know how you're supposed to know that. You're the one who made a statement of fact regarding manufacturer practice. That's why I asked you and not somebody else.

Interesting. Can you document this practice on the part of the manufacturers?

When you did the conversion did you happen to switch from DOT 3 to DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid?

If you find that you are pressing hard on the pedal and the car still won't stop, often it is not the lining that's the problem but the brake geometry. People instinctively think that when the car won't stop you shorten the brake rods, but in most cases the correct course of action is to take up looseness at the band-to-drum clearance and leave the rod adjustment alone. What happens when people start messing with the rods is they get the arms at the wrong angles, lose the mechanical advantage, and it makes for a hard pedal. P.S.: don't get the band on external contracting brakes too close at the drum as the drum will expand when hot and create other problems as you drive.

An easy way to tell from the front is the Cadillac used a larger radiator mounted at an angle, which is what we see here. Ford radiators were vertical. Also, if you zoom in you can see what looks to be the trademark Cadillac scroll on the side of the sleigh front. Agreed though, unless you have the right angle to see enough detail it can be difficult to differentiate between the two.

Summer cleaning -- price reduced to $175.00

Price reduced to $275.00 Every home should have one!

Added to help fill in the styling gap.

Sorry about that. Kombi has become a standard manufacturer's term that is short for "combination". There are a number of brands on the market, but my favorite is made by Sikkens. It is an air-dry spot putty that is a notch above Nitrostan, if you're familiar with that, typically comes in a toothpaste tube. Below are photos of a simple run I fixed on one of my cars recently. The skim coat of kombi helps to keep you from sanding through the surrounding area while blocking out the run and helps to support the work so you don't still have the shadow of a run once buffed even though it looks to be blocked down. There are YouTube videos of the technique if you need a better visual.

Cut the top of the run with 800g and let it breath for a week, then put a skim coat of kombi over it and the surrounding area, block wet with 800, and then proceed with the rest of your fine sanding. Polishing is like talking religion, but I like the 3M trio of Perfect-It compounds and corresponding foam pads. I also like to start with wool on the first step of cutting heavy.

Spring cleaning -- price reduced to: $225.00

This is your standard workhorse Red Devil paint shaker. Runs smooth and quiet, has a clean can clamp, and the unit is on a factory stand. It has had some repairs in the past that don't seem to affect its usefulness. Belt cover is shimmed as it is off a slightly different model machine and has a chunk broken out of it. Timer works as an on/off switch but doesn't count time anymore. It could use a new power cord. Stand is missing one of the four insulator feet. Overall I'd say it's a decent machine with a lot of hours left in it. The internals are pretty bulletproof. If you've ever purchased a can of poly at the the paint store, forgot to ask them to shake it, and spent 20 minutes stirring it after you got home, than you know why you need to own one! Price: $325.00 Local pick-up preferred, near Gettysburg, Pa. I can send a video of it running, if necessary.

Additionally, the O.P. has shown the tail where it meets the running board measuring 15". A Model A fender at this point is only 11".