Owen_Dyneto

Steve, I believe I can activate a new password for you if you're not successful. If you still have problems, send me a PM with a new password and I'll give it a try.

I assume you are referring to the vertical strim piece that separates the two halves of the windshield and extends to the roof. I'ts die-cast white metal, chromium plated.

I"ll look at one tonight and let you know, unless someone beats me to it.

As others have pointed out, pitted points in just a few miles is a classic symptom of a bad condensor or less likely, a bad ground. I've certainly never experienced point life in my 34 Packard of 40,000 miles as has been noted, but 20,000 miles is routine. Though condensors come in a range of capacitance, the range is narrow and the car really doesn't generally care if the condensor is for 6-volt, 12-volt, 2,4,6,8,12 or 16 cylinders. Buy a new (never use NOS) universal Echlin or Standard condensor, selecting one where the lead is long enough.

One important thing to keep in mind when you buy ethanol, other than the stuff at the liquor store with a tax stamp, is that it's denatured, that is, other chemical solvents are added to make it unfit for internal consumption. There are literally hundreds of these SDA or specially denatured" ethanols and many contain solvents that are far harsher on rubber than pure ethanol, and that's no doubt what happened to you.

Dave, as the author of the article on the Kelch heaters some years back and owner of a 34 Eight with one, I'd be interested in knowing what parts you've reproduced and other other info on the Kelch you may have. If you'd be so kind, could you email me at dlxzirr@optimum.net with any info like that?

Heaters, either hot water or hot air, were optional in 1936. The hot air heater that Packard offered thru 1939 was a Kelch-brand heater and had registers in both the front and rear compartment floors. It used a monel or stainless steel heat exchanger on the exhaust header with an electric blower and the floor registers were adjustable for direction and volume. There is a fairly extensive article with illustrations of this heater in an older issue of The Packard Club's publication The Packard Cormorant. PM me with your email if you'd like a copy.

I'm assuming its about the same arrangement as 34 and 35 tanks. No better way that I know of. Just close quarters - patience required.

Teflon seems to have two strikes against it, at least by comments I've heard. First, it doesn't compress well to conform to the packing cavity, and secondly it has the reputation of being hard on shafts.

Great piece of German engineering. And rare, but there are at least 8 Horch 8 cylinder cars listed in the CCCA directory. I think making contact with their owners would be an appropriate step.

Yes, perfect description for Sam Adelman's over in Westchester, just over the Tappan Zee bridge. Went there a few times in the late 50s? Every so often pictures surface of the place. Wonderul.

Don Summer, American Arrow Corp. Cast in stainless steel and polished, a superb piece and priced accordingly.

John, I'm not familiar with your particular pump, but generally the best option is to use split ring graphited cord packing. Depending on the cavity shape and the form of the packing gland, using smaller diameter graphited cord packing and carefully tamping it to form inside the cavity will work well. I did my 34 Packard pump with the cord material 40+ thousand miles ago and it hasn't required any attention since. I've had less luck with the cord on a 31 Pierce-Arrow and think the split-ring material would have worked out better. In any event, it's a pretty simple matter. Never heard of pouring lead in there and can't understand how it would function successfully. Sounds like a Goldberg job.

Rusty, if you can find a cooperative local high school chemistry class, take a small amount of gasoline, split it into 2 portions, add 5% or so kerosene to one half, and have them do a fractional distillation on both. You'll find they both have the same initial boiling point - been there and done it.

Again according to Reedy & Shaub's book, there were 4 different jacks used in 41-42.

Steve, gasoline isn't a single chemical compound but a mixture of hundreds of individual chemical compounds which have a large range of boiling points. Adding some additives can raise the AVERGE boiling point but cannot remove the lower-boiling components, so regardless of what higher ends are present, the initial boiling point will remain that of the most volatile components. That's not to say that adding something like kersene won't help, but it can't eliminate the volatile components. Some cars are much more apparent to vapor locking than others, I"ve never experienced here in NJ with either of my older Packards which see all kind of hot summer driving conditions.

A fully-charged 6 volt battery should have 6.6 volts at rest, so I suspect your charging system is putting out nothing. Try this, take a short jumper and just very quickly jump the Field or "F" terminal on the regulator to ground. If you now show a high rate of charge, your regulator is defective, and if not, the generator is defective. Don't leave the jumper connected for more than a minute or so. New regulators can be purchased from NAPA; adjusting regulators is a bit of a specialty and requires ammeters, voltmeters, temperture sensors and the like and is rarely done, and then usually only successfully by someone who really knows this stuff.

1940 junior and senior jacks, courtesy of Reedy & Shaub's book on Packard jacks and tools.

According to Reedy & Shaub's book on Packard jacks, the green bottle jack was used for 1937-39 junior cars, and 1939-1940 senior cars. The 1941 110 was supplied with a bumper jack. The authors have given me permission to post the occasional picture from the book, let me know if you need it.

The picture isn't what you want, that's just a typical Delco dual point from a 35/36 Packard. You want the methodology in the text. If I double-click on it, it expands to an easily readable file, perhaps your system doesn't allow that. If that doesn't work, send me a PM with your email and I'll send you the file.

An ohmmeter, or a test light and power source can be used to determine the exact moment of point opening. As to the synchronizing, perhaps the attached will give you some idea. Reproduced with the author's permission.

A bit off-topic for which I apologize, but isn't it true that some Knight-engined cars, rather than use a Knight-manufactured engine, took a license but manufactured their own. For example, Minerva.

Yes, there are folks out there who repair them, check Hemmings under "Services Offered" and you'll find one or more. But NAPA (Echlin) and Standard still have many of these older regulators as cataloged items, not on the shelf but usuall available the next day. They will differ a bit in appearance from an OEM unit perhaps, but you can always create a patina.

Assuming the front motor mount is in good condition, those side stabilizers should last for many tens of thousands of miles. To replace, just jack up the engine a bit with a wood block and jack under the oil pan, unbolt the old ones, and put in the new ones. These are revulcanized so the old steel parts must be supplied to get replacments. Revulcanizing services are not inexpensive, I believe just a set of steel cores is worth about $100. Try Max Merritt.

1939 Champion. I don't see any other makes or years using this particular regulator.