Owen_Dyneto

All things being equal, who wouldn't want a Twelve. But many a "rebuilt" has left a lot to be desired, they are expensive to do correctly and often, when the real correct rebuild costs become apparent, shortcuts are taken. So I'd want the credentials of the rebuilder and carefully check his reputation. Let me give you an example, I have a friend who bought a Twelve with a "rebuilt" engine, it only cost him another $20,000 to have the valve train redone correctly, whereas on a Super 8 a valve job can be done by nearly anyone with good basic mechanical skills. So, do your homework, thoroughly! "Rebuilt" can have a very large range of meaning.

Yes, flocking was very common, on many makes and models. Even as late as 1948-50; both my Custom 8s had flocked sides and back in the trunk, kind of a camel brown.

Hollander's shows all 319 cubic inch engines 34 thru 39 as interchanging, though that doesn't mean the grind was the same for all years of the 319 engine, and perhaps you should just consult the parts books to see what was identical. For example 33 and 34 Std. 8 cams had different part numbers and different profiles. As to the maximum lift, you could just measure it. As to profile perhaps you could buy a copy of the engineering drawing from the Studebaker Museum if it still exists.

NOS are available so why screw around trying to adapt something?

VR 755 is NORS for O-D 21262 used on the 33-36 Eight & Super 8 generators.

By appearance that generator is the "red label" (high output) unit installed on 1934 Packards about mid-year, the upgrade was made due to the rising popularity of radio equipment. The regulator is a NAPA/Echlin aftermarket unit, just recently discontinued by NAPA; at last call there are none left in their inventory as many owners of these cars bought them up in quantity when word circulated about their being discontinued, but hopefully you can find another if you choose to keep this generator on the car, which is functionally equivalent to the original generator. The forward cooling air "scupper" is mounted backwards; the cooling air flow should be IN at the lower scupper on the brush band, and OUT on the forward scupper. The intake scupper should have a mesh filter not unlike an air filter mesh to prevent the intake of debris into the generator. If the third brush was adjusted for maximum output the lack of air flow could easily have resulted in an overheated condition.

Owen-Dyneto CO-1240 is for 1934-35 Eight and Super Eight. Owen-Dyneto 21262 is the correct cutout/voltage control for these units. 40210 is correct control unit for 1936 which used O-D CO-1300 generator. These numbers can be found int he Packard Parts Book which uses OEM part numbers for these units. In some cases data from Chiltons or AEA differ.

BAT

An oil filter does not appear on the list of 1929 accessories, if that's any help.

I replaced the bearings with sealed units in my 34 pump, but converting to a modern seal hardly seems worth the bother, a good packing job on a shaft in good condition should easily last 50,000 miles. I believe York Restorations (CT) remakes some of the packing nuts.

You can also view or download the wiring diagram on The Packard Club's website, Packard Automobile Classics, Inc. - The Packard Club. Your generator is a third-brush type and the O-D regulator is just a cutout and simple voltage control. If I remember correctly the single external wire on the generator goes directly to the battery hot side post at the starter motor solenoid.

I agree with Rusty, most likely excessive free play in the clutch pedal adjustment.

I agree with Rusty, most likely excessive free play in the clutch pedal adjustment.

If the roof covering is the same or similar to other Packards up thru 1936 or so, it's available from either Restoration Specialities or Restoration Supply (can't keep them straight in my mind) in two grains. The one I bought for my 34 some years back was an exact match for the original.

One of mine broke this Spring; the door was down and I was up on a stepladder just about a foot from the spring trying to retrieve something from a shelf in the upper garage. Fortunately the Packard was in the driveway. A crack of sound like a shotgun blast, rust and dirt flying every which way, it took me a few seconds to realize that I hadn't been shot. I guess it was due, the garage dates to 1953 and all the door hardware is original.

Terrible idea to paint the radiator with anything other than radiator paint. You've just put a nice layer of insulation on it. Not sure how easy it is to strip Imron but that's what you're going to have to do.

As the rubberized fabric aged and developed cracks, they of course did begin to allow some moisture to pass thru. Often the leaks occurred at the moulding where they joined the steel panels. 10-25 years was probably a typical life if they were well cared for and the car was garage-kept. Typical care often involved coating them with a layer of butcher's wax once or twice a year. But they surely were quiet, extremely quiet!

Given the relatively high survival rate of 33/34 Packards, the EE-22 is not an easy find at a reasonable price. $400-500 or so doesn't even necessarily buy a good one these days. Although they differ in venturi size, jet size, etc., here are the other cars that used the EE-22, you might have better luck checking with their clubs/members: Buick, Chrysler, Graham, Hupmobile, Lincoln, Nash, and Studebaker.

Those muffler hangars are the same as those on my essentially original 1934 Eight (1100).

This the photo you're thinking of? It's been published in any number of books and magazines over the years, though I don't have any info on the date of the photo or the photo credit. The car was a 42, not a 41, and I have no knowledge that the car has survived, though I do believe a couple of knock-offs have been attempted.

I don't have the parts you need but can enclose a photo of the fast idle weight and screw which I had photographed a while back for someone who was making the needed parts for his own use. Oops - I just noticed you have that part already. But as I look at Tom's picture, I'm not certain that the choke shaft arm is in the right position - the thru-pin should catch between the two ears of the counterweight - maybe this original Stromberg diagram with help also.

Steve, you may be right about a Packard manual showing 72 lb-feet for an 8-cylinder head, but I've never seen anything in the Packard information other than 62-65 for the 7/16-20 threaded head nuts.

If you need it you can pick up a chassis layout that I donated of the Bijur over on PackardInfo.com for 1934 Eight, essentially the same. As far as the stamped fittings, I think your approach of coupling new lines and not soldering directly on them is a wise approach. I'm fortunate with mine, Bijur was still here in New Jersey and servicing the pumps and parts when I bought the car so it's never been inoperative, but if it becomes so or is disconnected and the car driven much, it sure raises holy he.. with wear on the shackles, brake rods, etc. I believe it's Bruce Blevins who has the drip plugs.

Tom, you no doubt already know this but if you look at the mix formula for Shirvan Green by Sherwin-Williams back in 1934, you'd conclude that it's just about as dark a green as you can reasonably expect. There's only 2 pigments, and it's 65% black.

My 34 Eight is essentially the same engine. I've used 0.005 both intake and exhaust for 45+ years of driving, no problems; this is 0.001 more than specification. At this clearance the valves should be totally silent. If not, the noise is most probably from worn rollers and/or pins, replacements for which are available from Egge and probably others.