68RIVGS

x2 on lubricating the window regulator, glass channels and pivot points. Sounds like something is binding, or not running freely !

You can get new replacement rubber inserts from most auto parts stores in random lengths, and you cut them to the length required to replace the old rubber portion of your original blade. An inexpensive and easy fix, and you retain the look of original blades !

Something else - if you do end up taking the door skin off, (...and you may not have to, after following Ed's advice), free up and lube the window pivot points and tracks while your in there, before you replace the outer door skin !

WD40 will do wonders in frozen, or stubborn lock cylinders too, and it's a little cleaner than the recommended powdered graphite !! After applying a liberal amount directly into the lock, work the lock button up 'n down to free up the internal door lock mechanism, and reduce any strain on the key. Allow ample time for the WD40 to soak in, and try your key in the lock cylinder to see if that improves your situation. You can use WD40 on all the lock cylinders to keep them in working order !!

Oh yeah - some very nice ones too !!

Just a heads up - The new June 2011 issue of Collectible Automobile has an in depth, feature article on '49-'62 Rivieras for all the 'other' Buick Riviera fans. . . . enjoy !!

Welcome back to the wonderful world of Riviera ownership !! The '70 GM Shop Manual, along with a '70 Fisher Body Manual, should contain all the info you need to maintain and service your '70 Riviera. They are the 'Bible' of a collector car owner !! Another good source of information in addition to this site, is the Riviera Owners Association (ROA) at www.rivowners.org. They also have volunteer Technical Advisors for specific model years, as well as fellow member/owners who are always willing to provide information when they can. What specific 'sensors' are you trying to locate ? :confused:

While 'evilbay' certainly isn't what it used to be, and the quality of 'good used' parts has deteriorated, I still keep searching for that 'golden find' on a regular basis. It sure does take a lot of time 'n patience though - besides, what else are yah gonna do when your retired with computer savy ?

Most lighting problems are usually caused by poor chassis ground connections, after checking for +12vdc power sources, and good working bulbs. Corrosion, rust or newly painted surfaces is usually the culprit, so just make sure all the lighting components have a proper ground.

. . . neat story Jason - nothing like a good junk yard prowl to get the old adrenaline flowing !!

They just don't come any finer - we had the pleasure of meeting Gene's dad at an ROA meet in Denver quite a few years back. Shortly after watching the Band of Brothers series, we both realized we had met a true living legend. It was an honour to share some time with Bill, and his family !!

I have posted most of my Riviera pics in the AACA Gallery here: http://forums.aaca.org/profile/93019-68rivgs/?do=content&type=gallery_image&change_section=1 . . . enjoy !!

Welcome Mike, and good luck with your new/old '65 !!

Here's a Canadian source for custom fit car covers. They are highly recommended in the ROA Riview, and they are really great to deal with. Good customer service, and a quality product for a reasonable cost !! www.huggercovers.com

Not to hijack this thread, but FYI: The headlight system on '68/'69 Rivieras are vacuum operated. You can try and find 'good used' units, which are almost 'unobtanium', or there are new repro units available from GM Obsolete, www.gmobsolete.com . You should also check all the other components in your system, to ensure there are no additional problems. The vacuum system on these cars can be a royal P.I.T.A. to troubleshoot !

The centre caps on your evilBay link are correct for Skylark, or GS applications. 2" or 2 1/8" retainers are available for centre caps - depending on the actual centre hole size of the rally wheels you have.

Link: http://forums.aaca.org/f119/1965-rivera-gs-298537.html

On the european cars with spoked wheels that had steel splined hubs and wheels, it was absolutely necessary to coat the splines with lubriplate, or an anti-sieze compound, if you ever intended to remove them, since they would weld themselves together from rust and corrosion as Ed stated. They looked beautiful with the wire spokes and knock of centre caps, but they could be a P.I.T.A., if not maintained properly !!

Ed, the lenses used in those '70 'A' bodies were 4 tab !

Here's a part no, for the 3 tab lens Dan - 4765600. They should be available at any GM dealer, and list for $7 each.

Welcome to the ROA Dan, good to see your finally on board !! I'm sure there are lots of fellow 1st generation classic owners who can answer most of your Buick questions.

I luv anything old Dan - cause that's what I are, and an ROA member since the beginning !! Now that you have a '64 Riviera, please consider joining the ROA ! I could have checked the roster, but it's much more fun when you DIY.

Check with Joann,( www.office@rivowners.org ) at the ROA office to see if ROA#3165 is still current, along with a brief explanation of why.

Sure looks like a nice one Chris - enjoy !!

There are a few places that will rechrome plastic parts. It's a vacuum process that requires specialized equipment. I've heard good and bad about Mr. G's. from other Buick sites. CV Vacuum Platers, in British Columbia, was an outfit that I used with excellent results, but I believe they are no longer in business. Another source that was doing a lot of CV referals is www.instrumentspecialties.com , 401-267-0055. Another source to check is www.chrometechusa.com , 608-274-9811, but I have no experience with iether.