Jim65Riv

I have a 93 and the diagrams are in the shop manual. If the 89 is the same and you don't have a shop manual, I can e-mail you copies of mine.

I see that the car has the rare flexible rubber air cleaner housing.

No Derek? That does it. I'm not going.

Brake & Equipment Warehouse, 455 Harrison St NE, Minneapolis, MN 55413 - 612/378-3141 - has new cast aluminum timing covers for the Buick 300, 340 & 350 V-8 engines. They are made by APT and cost $125 plus tax. My source says the the casting is very high quality.

According to The Standard Catalog of Buick, 1903 - 2004, 3rd Edition, 1928 "Serial numbers on right side of frame behind front wheel opening. Starting Standard Six 1901476, Master Six 1911026. Ending Standard Six 2137872, Master Six 2169650. Engine numbers on crankcase." If the wheelbase is 114.5 inches the car is a Standard Six. If it is 120 to 128 inches it is a Master Six. 5,194 built for export.

If you go to the CarFax web site you can purchase a one time print out. All you need is the VIN.

I have the insulator for the field wire - it was removed to see what is/isn't working. I'm still waiting for the snow to melt in front of the garage so I can get the car out in better light and the temps to warm to where I can bend my fingers when I'm out working on it.

Welcome, Mike. You have done the three best things you could possibly do: 1. You have a 1965 Riviera:D 2. You joined the ROA 3. You joined the Riviera Forum There are extremely knowledgeable and helpful people who participate on this forum. All you need do is post you questions and wait for the answers to appear.

Take a look at all of the gaps between body panels. Are they even, or say, with the hood or trunk lid, is one side wider than the other. It looks like the hood doesn't fit quite right. I agree that the price seems very high for the quality of the car. As a retired used car salesman, let me give you another piece of advice: PATIENCE PAYS. Don't let your emotions rule your reason. The easiest thing to do is pay too much for a bad car. The right car for you is out there: The latest Riview had seven 63's, eleven 64's and ten 65's listed for sale.

Paul, Do you have a good source for studded snow tires for a 1965 Riviera so that I can make it to the car show on May 1st:confused:

Unfortunately, the ones on eBay are all model 286 which is for 1923 & newer. They won't work. It also appears that neither of yours are model 184. I appreciate you looking into it. I'll just keep the post alive. I haven't heard from John Beatty yet.

In your pictures, as you look at the starters, on the left side just below the large nut is a long, rectangular raised section - this has the model and serial number of the unit on it. The first three numbers are the model number. The one I have has the number 184124651 on it. If either of your starters are a model 184, could you post a close-up of the end that we can see in the current picture? Thanks, Mark.

The Delco model number for the Motor/Generator is No. 184

Have your state's motor vehicle department run the vin, or the plate number if it has plates on it. They should be able to tell you who it is registered to. Also, you should start your own thread for this question. A lot of people will look at the original post date of 2007 and not bother to read any farther.

When the starter pedal is stepped on, the brush control rod moves, but there isn't anything attached to it so the motor brush isn't lifted from the communtator. [ATTACH]82768[/[ATTACH]

DELCO Model #184 - My 1922 Model 46 is missing the brush operating link and the motor brush switch, basically everything between the brush operating rod and the motor brush. Any ideas on where these parts can be found or pictures of the distributor end of the generator without the top and end covers would be appreciated.

I was just back in the fun garage. Cleared some ice from in front of one of the doors, everything else survived. Moved the cars around so that I can work on the 1922 tomorrow. The 65 started right up, moved when I put it in gear, and stopped when I stepped on the brake. What more could you ask for.

Tim, I just tried it and it said that you can't receive private messages.

Tim, You could contact Roberta (Buickracer) by pm. She is a super moderator and may be able to help. She has two posts at the top of the general section if you need her contact info.

Dave - it's the horns themselves I want to replace, not the steering wheel pads. Tim - The "F" note (left) sounds like a sick sheep. The "A" note (right) deosn't sound at all. I can see the left one from above, but reaching it will be difficult. The right side one has the battery in the way and it looks like reaching it from the top would be impossible.

An offer I can't refuse. A couple of sticks of dynamite might help, too.

Has anyone replaced the horns on this generation? Of course the shop manual tells you what to do when they are out of the car, but doesn't say how to get at them. Is access through the top or the bottom, and did you learn any tricks? Thanks in advance.

The front fenders were changed enough for 65 so that the clamshells will not bolt into the 63-64 fenders. To obtain the 65 look, you will need a whole front clip.

Advertised in the Mar/Apr 2011 Riview: 1965 tail light bezels are now in stock. $349.50 a pair. Cars, Inc 908-369-3666 www.oldbuickparts.com

Received the set for 1965 yesterday. This is an excellent resource to have, and well worth the cost. Thanks