Rusty_OToole

Pedal goes to the floor but you can pump it up, this is typical of brakes out of adjustment NOT master cylinder. There is so much clearance between the shoes and drums, you have to pump the wheel cylinders full just to get the brakes to touch, then you are OK. The solution is to adjust the brake shoes. Chrysler products of that era are touchy about brake adjustments. The brakes are very efficient but must be set up right. Once they are set up right then only minor adjustments are needed occasionally to take up wear. You have to get the factory manual and adjust them to specs using a special tool. It can be done without the special tool but it takes longer. Don't waste your time rebuilding the master cylinder again if it is working correctly and not leaking.

Either way 12 PSI is way too much. The best answer might be to put a pressure regulator at the carb and set it to 2 PSI.

All the parts will interchange between the 2 engines so if the replacement does happen to be a 201 you can swap over the other crankshaft and rods to make it a 218.

Don't think so. The cars that suffer from lack of zinc are OHV pushrod type engines like Detroit V8s from the sixties and seventies. Especially the high performance models with hot cams and stiff valve springs. Today's overhead cam engines don't need the zinc because their valve trains are so lightly loaded. Just like your "underhead cam" six lol. Seriously, your car's valve train is very simple and light with light valve springs. The lack of zinc shouldn't hurt it. If you are concerned you can use Shell Rotella 15W40 or diesel rated oil. They still have zinc .

What happens when you shut the doors? There is a switch in the door jamb of both front doors to turn on the light for safety and convenience when entering and exiting at night. You should be able to shut the light off by turning the headlight knob all the way to the left.

Sounds to me like a fan belt squeal or a bearing about to burn out. Such as a generator, water pump or fan bearing. I don't know why the noise comes and goes but they do act funny sometimes.

It appears the fuel tank is above the pump or carburetor. In that case the fuel line will have no effect on vapor lock, in fact vapor lock will be practically impossible.

Did you do a major adjustment? If you want your brakes to be first rate you have to contour the shoes to the drums using a sanding block and do a major adjustment (only after having the brakes apart). Later on you will need to do a minor adjustment to take up wear, maybe 1 or 2 adjustments in the first month. After the brakes are broken in you will need to do a minor adjustment once a year or less. In other words when you rebuild the brakes you do a major adjustment to align the shoes to the drums. After that, a minor adjustment to take up wear once in a while. If the brakes are adjusted correctly you will be impressed with how well they work. They were state of the art for their time.

If you are shifting into hi range at over 14 MPH it may be automatically shifting into hi gear of hi range. What happens when you start off in hi range and lift off the gas at over 14 MPH? Does it shift? If it does the trans must be working correctly. You are supposed to start off in hi range anyway. For complete information do a search for Fluid Drive in the Chrysler section, there is plenty of info on driving, servicing and repairing, especially a couple of long threads from 2008.

Factory spec for your fuel pump is 3 to 4 1/2 pounds of pressure. Less than 3 pounds can starve the carburetor. More than 4 1/2 pounds can cause carburetor flooding. This information is from the factory repair manual for the 1950 Chrysler. The pressure is controlled by the spring behind the diaphragm. Suggest you replace the spring or add a pressure regulator.

You are right. The method you are using is correct, the same as used in all garages for the last 100 years. Pete is right about the star pattern or every second nut on a 5 bolt wheel.

Around 1971 or 72 Ballantine Publishing (you have probably seen their WW2 books) put out a book on the DeDion Bouton company. In it they mentioned Pennington as owning the British rights to DeDion products in the 1890s along with the rights to several other cars. The gist was he was a mountebank and a stock promoter who knew nothing about cars and was only interested in a fast buck.

T112 is a 1941-47 Dodge engine out of a WC15 or WD15 truck. Either 201 or 218 cu in. Sorry I can't pin it down any closer.

This sounds like a carburetor problem. Is it getting gas? Is the choke working correctly? Is the float setting correct and all other carb adjustments? See if you can get the OEM carb rebuild specs and set everything to factory specs.

Fuel pressure is way too high. I don't know how you get 12 lbs out of a stock fuel pump. Did you use a different spring when you rebuilt it? If so put the softer one back in. Or, get a pressure regulator, mount it on the carb and set it to 2 PSI.

If you want the original narrow tire look, try the cheapest tires you can get. No kidding, I bought a set of Marshal 791 radials from Walmart for my DeSoto, they are a good 2" narrower than name brand tires of the same nominal size. Also get the highest aspect ratio, like 75 as in R75/13. They used to make 85s but haven't seen them in years. The Walmart Marshall 791 tires are about the closest you can get to the original look, but they are about 10 times better tires than the 2 ply bias ply 6.00-13's your Corvair came with.

As for those who think he should obey the rules, he IS obeying the rules. Someone else is trying to CHANGE THE RULES. Maybe you should tell those parties to obey the rules and not try to change them for their own convenience. Not even convenience really, just a whim. These dingbats want everyone else to spend hundreds of $$$$ or junk their car, because they don't happen to like walking past oil drips on a garage floor. Boo Hoo. If the repairs were coming out of their pockets I bet they could learn to like oil drips.

Bobburns thank you for the confirmation and technical explanation. I prefer to keep things simple but I appreciate the more correct technical approach. To keep it on simple terms, several people have confirmed that adding some kerosene, diesel fuel or stove oil will reduce the tendency to vapor lock and will NOT hurt an older model, low compression engine. Some have reported more power, easier starting and cooler running especially in very low compression cars of the twenties and early 30s. This approach is not recommended for higher compression cars made from the mid fifties onwards.

Resistance values should be in the car maker's repair manual if you know what car it came off of.

19" is the inside diameter of the wheel in other words measured where the bead seats on the rim, not the outside measurement. The 4.75" is the height of the tire and it is also the width of the tire. In those days all tires were as wide as the are high, this is called the aspect ratio. A tire that is round in cross section has an aspect ratio of 100, if it is 75% as high as it is wide it has an aspect ratio of 75 etc.

NASCAR was always about making the France family rich by putting on a show that would wow the rubes. A ding dong battle between Ford and Chev, or Ford and Pontiac always drew the crowds because practically all NASCAR fans were either Ford or GM fans . So they would bend over backwards to get Ford or GM to bring out something to catch the public's eye. On the other hand, if Plymouth or Dodge won too many races they knew they had to ban them off the tracks or the crowds would thin out. Look at how many times they bent the rules for Ford and GM, and how many times they banned or restricted the Chrysler products. It wasn't just the "mystery motor" or the 427s.

The pan needs to clear certain parts like the crankshaft and oil pump. Usually you have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack the engine up 3 or 4 inches. When new your car had a top speed of 100 MPH or a hair more. It is probably in need of a tuneup, something that went out of fashion about 25 years ago. It might be a good idea to do a compression test to see where you stand. If the engine is worn out a tuneup won't fix it but if you have decent compression it should be possible to get a lot more out of it than that.

When sitting around a damp garage points can get a white fur on them that acts as an insulator. Usually seen after several years out of commission. Maybe yours were worn and out of adjustment then a little corrosion finished the job, who knows?

Doubt he will need any other parts, my car is a 49 and his is a 48 Chrysler (completely different). The one on my car seems to be adjustable to fit different width bodies so it is probably aftermarket.

Do you have any idea if your Buick was produced in the US or Canada? It makes a difference. Starting in 1907 the McLaughlin Carriage Company of Oshawa Ontario had exclusive rights to build and sell Buicks in Canada. They used Buick chassis with bodies of their own design and manufacture which were different from the Detroit product. Many of the Buicks found in Commonwealth countries are actually McLaughlin Buicks. There were no import duties between Commonwealth countries so buying from Canada instead of the US could result in savings of up to 25% or 35%. If you have one the emblems and data plates should be clearly marked.