Jim Cannon

Guys, what about 06D being the last week of July of *1964* at the very start of the 1965 model year??? Why not???

But Dick, it's RARE!!! Buick only made about 1.2 million cars those 3 years. Gosh, there's probably only 3 or 4 hundred thousand of them left in the world today.

CarFax does not go back to '63. That's why he was told he did not have enough digits in the VIN.

John- I would also like to know what the engine code is on the deck of the engine block. 2 letters, beginning with J, and 3 numbers. Let me know if you need help finding it.

Good. Before you adjust the choke coil, go through and make sure all of the choke linkage is moving very freely. If the choke mechanism is binding a bit, you have to really crank the coil up tight to close the flap and then it won't open fully when it warms up. Use spray carb cleaner on all the linkage and shafts. Get it all good and clean and moving with just a touch of a finger. Once you have that, loosen the 3 hold down screws and rotate the choke coil body enough to just close the choke on a dead cold engine (car has not run all night). Have someone hold the throttle open while you make this adjustment (engine NOT running). Find fast idle screw at this point and make sure it is touching the fast idle cam. Set fast idle speed according to the shop manual when engine is fully warmed up (not cold - a common error). Don't worry about the air you see trapped in the glass fuel filter bowl. They just do that. Car will run fine. Sounds like you've got it figured out!

No, Tom, your logic was clear. We composed and posted our replies to Ed at about the same time, saying basically the same thing...

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: RivNut</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Tom, The window sticker for my 63 shows D4 for the wonderbar radio w/ electric antenna. Ed </div></div> Ed- And to Tom's point, the data plate on your '63 only has the "D", right? not the number "4"? I think that's Tom's point, that the number does not show on the Fisher Body data plate. What Tom describes makes sense. The "D" tells FB to put the rear speaker in. The Buick assembly line took care of installing the antenna and radio that was ordered after FB was done with the body. I do not recall ever seeing a number after the D on a data plate, just the D. If anyone has one, I'd like a photo of it.

Dirk- I have seen an original, low mileage, '63 Riviera with the Radio Delete option and it has no evidence of ever having a hole in the fender for the antenna. There is nothing there covering up a hole. I would assume '65 is the same. This is why there is a Radio code on the data plate, so that Fisher Body knew if an antenna was needed on the car or not. I don't have any record of the number of cars produced in '63 with Radio Delete, but I suspect it is small. (Most people who would spend all that money on a car would pay the $100 or so to have a radio put in it.)

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tim63riv</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <snip> Never thought to ask him about when the 425 became available in the 63 Riviera. Jim Cannon keeps track of VIN numbers, but I don't know if he keeps track of engine displacements. <snip> </div></div> I keep track of 1963 Riviera Fisher Body (FB) numbers and their associated build date codes (upper left corner of data plate). When I can, mostly by direct observation of the car, I try to record design feature changes with time: - dimple in power brake vacuum storage can - pebble finish (not ribbed) on fronts of heater-A/C knobs - 140 mph speedo - ribbed dash - side mirror moved forward - spare moved to shelf I do not keep track of VINs. Because it is not so easy to see the engine code (without removing air filter housing) I do not track engine displacement. I am willing to start, if people are willing to send me the data. My preference is to get a photo of the engine block "deck" where the engine code and VIN are stamped to document displacement, a photo of the stainless steel VIN plate on the body, to make sure this engine was in the car when it left the factory, and a photo of the data plate above the brake booster. I will gladly collect this data for all '63 Rivieras, if people will send it to me.

Mike- If the distributor has moved (rotated) around far enough, the outer metal tang on the rotor will not line up close enough to the pins inside the cap for a spark to jump and you will get no spark at the plugs. See if you can crank the engine over and stop when piston in cylinder #1 is at top or near top on a compression stroke. Then see where points and cam are. Rotate distributor body if you need to, to get points just opening.

Al is correct: http://www.restorationspecialties.com/ They have a large online catalog. Buried in it are a number of parts that are perfect matches for what we need on our cars. Here are a few I have found: <span style="font-weight: bold">Rear window trim clips (screw into the body): page 130, #8184.</span> Door hinge pin bushings: page 153, part #1084. Rubber seat back bumper, steel core, screws included: page 75 part #11-112. Various size plastic "body plugs", page 194. For example, below the trunk, on the sides, 1 inch plastic plugs are used. Their part #9291. 1/2" rubber plugs (if you need them) for in the trunk on each side of the lock mechanism, page 195. Lot's of other specialty screws, nuts etc.

Thanks, Steve! Yes, that's a December 1962 body build date. If the booster is good (a big if) then I would suspect vacuum going to it. There is a check valve at the end of the steel line coming off of the intake manifold. Make sure it is sealing by removing rubber hose from steel line and draw a vacuum on that inlet. It should hold a vacuum. Also see if you or your booster shop can put a vacuum pump and a gauge on the vacuum hose going into the booster (takes the engine out of the picture for a minute) and see if you can pull the vacuum down with no pressure applied to the brake pedal. If you can, go step on the brake and see what it feels like. The brake shop can also put a pressure gauge on the brake line to see what kind of pressure you are generating when you press on the pedal. The '63 booster must have a vacuum storage can attached to it. I hope you have one. If not, let me know and I will send a photo of what it should look like. Check your vacuum hoses for good connections (use hose clamps on them all) and make sure none of the vacuum hoses are collapsing. Feel all around them with your fingers and under where you can not see to check for a split hose. The '63 booster is a one year only item for the Riv and a bit different from other years. But if your rebuilder knows what he is doing, it should work out OK. Have they rebuilt a '63 Riv booster before? If you really want to do so, you can put on a matching set of booster and master cylinder from a later year. It will bolt right up but you will need to fabricate a new line down to the distribution block, and add a T-fitting for the brake light switch. You may want to jump to a '67 Riviera booster/master cylinder and convert the car to dual master cylinder while you are at it. This year booster does not need the vacuum storage can, but you can use it if you want to -- no harm. Keep us informed of progress.

Sounds to me like the choke and/or the fast idle cam is not properly adjusted. You also want to see if there is a small spray of gas into the carb (engine NOT running) when you look down with a flashlight while you move the throttle with your hand. That's the accelerator pump and it puts a bit of gas in there to help cold starting. If you see that, I'd check choke and fast idle speed.

Watch for originals on eBay. Get a feel for the going price by following a few auctions and then jump in when you find one that the bidding is lagging on. One tip I learned from one of my buddies in the ROA: watch for '63 Buick full size shop manuals, not '63 Riviera shop manuals. For some reason, the manuals that are listed as Riviera manuals get bid up higher than if they are just called Buick manuals. But they are the same book.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: steelman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I am having an issue with the brakes on my 63. First a little history. Bought this car in July. Nice original 63 in need of a tune up, exhaust and paint. 2 of those three are taken care of now. Car is a 118,000 mile unrestored, unmolested, fairly high option car. #12685 of 40000 delivered Feb. 23, 1963 to the Texas panhandle town of Stinnett. Because Jim cares, it has the ribbed dash and the spare on the trunk floor. Unusual options are aluminum wheel covers, A/C, vacuum trunk release, and custom interior. </div></div> Thanks for the info!!! Sounds like a nice car. What is the date code in the upper left corner of the data plate? Sounds like bad vacuum booster to me. Who rebuilt it for you?

Could also be the word "mandrel" combined with something else, and a bit of an accent. Perhaps post a link to the audio file of your Dad speaking so that we can hear what he says in the context in which he is saying it.

I agree with Darwin that your lights do not need to be poor. Here are a few things to check and perhaps correct (in addition to what Darwin suggested): 1. Check the condition of the electrical contacts on the back side of the sealed beam headlamps. If corroded, clean them up. Bright lights require a good electrical connection there. 2. Building on what Darwin said about replacing old, stock T-3 sealed beam headlamps, I suggest you replace them with readily available Halogen Sealed Beam lamps. The numbers for these lamps are H5006 for the outer 2 lamps (hi/lo beam) and H5001 for the inner 2 lamps (hi-only). The halogens start out brighter and stay brighter longer. They do appear to be original bulbs unless you get right up close to them, so they would only detract from the most serious fine point judging show car. As Darwin said, if you replace headlamps, you should aim them again. 3. Find the ground wire in the headlight wiring harness (usually under the hood) and clean the connector where it attaches to the body. Just like you need clean connections on the back of the lamps, you need a good, clean ground here for maximum headlight brightness. 4. The final place to look in the headlight system is the headlight switch itself. After driving at night for an hour or so, see if the headlight switch knob, shaft, or body feels hot. If it does, that might be due to dirty contacts inside the switch not allowing full voltage to get to the lamps for maximum brightness. If headlight switches are available for your year car, you might try replacing it.

The owners manual calls for 10W30 for use in the temperatures that you will have in Florida. (It calls for other oils where the weather is much colder.) So 10W30 is a good place to start. You might find, especially if the engine proves to have 150,000 miles (and it might) that you get some oil burning (out the tail pipe) and leaking at the front and rear main bearing seals with 10W30, especially in summer (hot weather) and at high speed. Lifters may also be a little noisier in the summer when hot. If you do, change to slightly thicker oil, like 10W40 (like Ed) or 20W50. I use 10W30 in Houston in the winter (change in Fall) and 20W50 in the summer (change in Spring). My engine has 96,000 miles on it. Regardless of miles you put on the car, changing the oil and filter at least once every 6 months is a good plan, to get out moisture and other contaminants.

For oil: not so sure running 5W30 will clean anything out. Car was not designed for that oil. I'd be afraid you will cause more harm than good. Just put in fresh oil and let the detergents in there do their thing. Oil with some zinc is good. Interesting discussion about zinc: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Zinc_Motor_Oils.aspx Oil filter is AC Delco PF-24. It is a bit smaller than original filter, so oil change with filter will not quite take the 5 qts. of oil that the book says is will. Put in about 4.5 qts to start, run engine for a minute, then stop it and add oil until at the Full line. I think you'll find it does not quite take the 5th quart.

Should be OK. Check out the following site. http://www.donsbulbs.com/ This guy has cataloged every bulb you could ever imagine. Here are the details regarding the bulbs you ask about: http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/1034.html http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/1157.html According to Don, the 1157 draws a bit more current and will last longer. Other than that, they are identical. I have used Don's site to help me find new instrument panel bulbs that are slightly higher candle power than the factory originals, to help see the instruments better at night.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: BruceW</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One thing I like about this search tool (in addition to it searching multiple sources) is that it searches across the country. Always wished I could search Craigslist in all areas with one search. With Craigslist broken up into specific geographical areas within each state, you have to do multiple searches just to cover one state entirely and many more if you want to cover surrounding states (unless I am overlooking something on Craigslist). Sometimes I am looking for something I need want or bad enough that I don't care were it may be. </div></div> Bruce- See my earlier reply where I tell about "Crazedlist".

Bill, that's another subtle difference between '63 and later years. I did not know that the fuses were behind that left access cover on the '64. Much easier to get at there, that's for sure. I guess Buick got a few complaints about having to stand on your head to change a fuse. Eric, I agree with Bill, I'd sure be careful with those vacuum hoses on the A/C and heater controls to get at the radio. You should be able to remove the trim piece that covers A/C and heater controls (look in ash tray, remove screws you see), then remove mounting screws for those controls and let the control unit all just settle down inside console, if you can, without messing with the vacuum hoses, then you can get at the radio. (Power feed to cigar lighter is always hot so you might want to disconnect the ground cable on the battery.)

Eric, that small access panel you found to the left of the column is just to help reach up and access the instruments, speedo, etc. The fuse box is way up under the dash, mounted to the firewall. Get down under the dash, laying on your back, and look up at the firewall. Then you will see it. The flasher for the turn signals is stuck in it; it looks like a metal can. I recommend you disconnect the battery ground cable before you start messing with the fuse box and trying to slip it out of it's holder. The back side of the fuse block has a strip of exposed metal that is hot all the time, even with the key off. If you accidentally touch that strip to any metal under the dash, you will short things out and can either fry your wiring harness or set your car on fire (obviously neither of which is good). Ask me how I know... Removing the radio requires removing the flat section of dash that it is attached to; it comes out as a unit, together with the radio. Getting that panel out is a trick. You will find a couple of nuts on the back side that need to come off. Getting to them is tough. If you have A/C, remove the center vent and the duct that runs up to it. On my '63, I remove the small panel that contains the ash tray to get to these 2 nuts; I think the '64 has heater-A/C controls in the way, making it more of a challenge. You probably need to loosen up the flat panel on the underside if the dash, directly above the radio, before the panel that holds the radio will slide forward, too. When you get to the radio, you will find 2 attaching bolts on the underside of the radio that need to come out. Pay attention to how the power feed wires go in and how the antenna plugs in, so you can put them back correctly. Interestingly, this is not usually a procedure you will find in the shop manual. It is considered fairly routine, like removing a wheel, and assumed any experienced mechanic would already know how to do it. There are blow-up pictures of the dash parts and how they all fit together, that's about it.

Yea... the link shown is not the link you get... I manually typed the following http://route66chronicles.blogspot.com and it worked.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Vic 225</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Its time to clean and paint the underbody and I wish to know what colors to paint it. I plan on using chassis black on the frame and suspension. Were the brake drums black? Backing plates black? I thought I would use Zinc spay on the gas tank. What color is the drive shaft? Would like to hear your suggestions. Thank you. Sheldon 1965 Buick Electra 4 dr Ht 1929 Hudson Victoria </div></div> Drums not normally painted because it burns off with heat of brake use. Backing plates and axle chassis black. Parking brake cables left cad plated. I found no residual paint on my drive shaft, just surface rust. If it was factory painted, it all wore off long ago. I used chassis black and it looks good. Zinc spray on the gas tank would look good. Mine was heavily undercoated. I scraped off any that was loose and then resprayed the whole thing to look uniform.