Jim Cannon

"2 core" and "3 core" are slang for having 2 or 3 rows of tubes in your radiator core. It has nothing to do with heater core, and there is no third core. The more rows of tubes you have, the more heat your radiator can get rid of when you need it to do so. If you don't need it then the extra rows of tubes are kind of a waste. But boy, when you need it, it is sure nice to have. There is plenty of room along the tanks for 2 or 3 rows of tubes. The tank is the same size. In fact, I have 4 rows of tubes on my '63. I can run with the A/C on in 100+ deg. summer weather and not overheat. On your non-A/C car I would still recommend you get 3 rows. If you do, the 5-blade A/C waterpump is a good match. (If you ever think you will add A/C, get the 4 row core.) The thermostat is going to restrict the flow of hot water out of the engine to keep the engine at the desired temperature. If you have the larger radiator and the 5 blade impeller on the waterpump, that pump will be able to really get the water moving through the radiator when the engine is hot (which is a good thing). You might want to check out your local Napa auto parts store, see what they have in the way of new waterpumps. Online they list two different part numbers, both for cars with A/C. I'd trust them before a guy I never heard of before on eBay.

I spray painted an overflow bottle that I bought at my local auto parts store with semi-flat black paint. then I mounted it down low, out of the way, in the dark. No one saw it. You can turn your factory 7 lb. pressure cap into a recovery cap by just adding a seal under the lid (separate from the seal that keeps the pressure in the tank). The key is to have the cap itself seal up on the outer lip of the filler neck. When it does, the cooling fluid in the engine sucks the coolant back from the overflow bottle. Once radiator is full and overflow bottle is full, hold bottle up higher than the filler neck to get air out of filler neck and fill it with coolant. Loosen the cap a bit, until coolant leaks out, then tighten it back on. After a few cycles of heating and cooling, top off the overflow bottle.

Another great angle, JD! Vacuum leak! Too much air will act the same as not enough fuel. My '63 ran very poorly when it warmed up (but not when cold) and I traced it back to a vacuum leak where the carb mounted to the intake manifold. I doubled the gasket and put the stainless steel plate back in there that some previous owner had removed and all was fixed. My friend had a clear stumble on hard acceleration with his '72 'Vette and it eventually proved to be intake manifold not sealing properly on one head when the engine warmed up. I forget how he figured it out but it just about drove him crazy. Could also be the carb accelerator pump. Even if the plunger is new, it might not be good. I think your carb also has a little ball check valve on that pump inlet. Crud in that spot could keep the ball from seating. Fuel could be flowing backward thru the inlet instead of being sprayed into the venturis...

I agree with the possibility of a plugged fuel tank vent. Or see if the gas cap is supposed to be vented and someone replaced it with an unvented cap. Also check out the fuel line from tank to fuel pump. I don't know '53s as well as later years, but see if there is any flexible fuel line between tank and pump. Replace anything you are not sure of. Internal softening or collapse of this rubber line can choke off fuel flow, especially when softened from heat. See if your carb has a neoprene tipped needle on the fuel inlet needle valve. If the tip is soft, replace it. The tip could be sticking in the seat.

You can get original AM/FM for the '64 full size Buick, no problem. Or you can get straight AM. Or you can get AM Wonderbar. All 3 radios are available, if you look around. All are transistor radios by '64. Whatever you get, plan to get it restored for it to sound good, and put in new speaker(s). The old capacitors in the radios and the speakers go bad with time and the elements. I had my AM/FM restored this year and it really sounds great.

That is correct, AM only.

Gary- Make sure you put the front shoe on the front of that rear wheel and the rear shoe on the back half of the wheel. The front shoe on each wheel has the shorter overall lining length, compared to the rear shoe. They will easily go on the wrong way around. If you do not pay attention, you may not notice the difference in brake lining length. The leading edge shoe (the front shoe) tends to self-energize quite a bit and apply itself even harder than the wheel cylinder pressure alone. That's why it has the shorter lining length. Opposite on the rear shoe; it needs longer brake lining length to compensate for rotation removing some application pressure. Good luck with it. Jim (I used to design brake systems)

there is some discussion of fuel gage testing in the shop manual. you need to see if needle is always on E or always on Full. One is broken wire; the other is a grounded wire (wire pinched somewhere where insulation is cut). I forget which is which. Sender wire might have vibrated off of sender... Adding a ground wire between tank and frame can't hurt. '65 might have had it from factory. I recommend having a local starter shop rebuild the one you have. New solenoid with new brushes and bearings should do it. They know what to do. Too heavy to be shipping all over the place.

As I recall, the ROA publishes just such a guide. The Riviera was essentially built around the heater core.

Must be '65. '64 Riv did not have clamshells.

yes, same.

Your information is correct. The "guy" is wrong and trying to rip you off. A vehicle registered in Texas as an Antique Vehicle is exempt from inspection. I carry a paper copy of the relevant Texas motor vehicle laws with me in my '63 Riviera to defend myself against ignorance with respect to registration, inspection and seat belts. Copy/paste this into a word processor and print: § 502.275. Certain Exhibition Vehicles; Offense (a) The department shall issue specially designed license plates for a passenger car, truck, motorcycle, or former military vehicle that: (1) is at least 25 years old, if the vehicle is a passenger car, truck, or motorcycle; (2) is a collector's item; (3) is used exclusively for exhibitions, club activities, parades, and other functions of public interest, and is not used for regular transportation; and (4) does not carry advertising. ( Special license plates issued under Subsection (a) must include the words "Antique Auto," "Antique Truck," "Antique Motorcycle," or "Military Vehicle," as appropriate. © In lieu of issuing plates under Subsection (a), the department may approve for use license plates presented by the owner that were issued by this state in the same year as the model year of a vehicle described by Subsection (a). The department shall approve for use on a passenger car license plates that were issued for a passenger car or for a truck and shall approve for use on a truck license plates that were issued for a truck or for a passenger car. If the department approves license plates under this subsection, the department shall issue a symbol for attachment to one of the license plates, as determined by the department, showing the year in which the vehicle was registered under this section. (d) License plates issued under Subsection (a) or approved under Subsection © are valid for a maximum period of five years. (e) The department shall issue license plates under Subsection (a) or approve license plates under Subsection © and shall issue a registration receipt to a person who: (1) files a sworn written application with the county assessor-collector of the county in which the person resides that: (A) is on a form provided by the department; ( if the vehicle is a passenger car, truck, or motorcycle, contains the make, body style, motor number, and age of the vehicle; © states any other information required by the department; and (D) states that the vehicle and the use of the vehicle comply with Subsection (a); and (2) pays a fee of: (A) $10 for each year or portion of a year remaining in the five-year registration period, if the vehicle was manufactured in 1921 or a later year; or ( $8 for each year or portion of a year remaining in the five-year registration period, if the vehicle was manufactured before 1921. (f) Notwithstanding any other provision of this section, the department may exempt a former military vehicle from the requirement to display license plates or any symbol, tab, or other device indicating registration of the vehicle if the department determines that the exemption is necessary to maintain the vehicle's accurate military design or markings. (g) A vehicle registered under this section is exempt from the registration fee otherwise prescribed by this chapter. (h) Registration under this section is valid without renewal for the period for which the vehicle was registered if the vehicle is owned by the same person. (i) A county assessor-collector may not renew the registration of a vehicle under this section until the registered owner surrenders to the assessor-collector any license plates or symbol and the registration receipt issued for the vehicle for the previous period. (j) If a vehicle registered under this section is transferred to another owner or is junked, is destroyed, or otherwise ceases to exist, the registration receipt and any license plates or symbol are immediately void and the license plates or symbol issued under this section shall be sent immediately to the department. (k) An owner of a vehicle registered under this section who violates this section commits an offense. An offense under this section is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine of not less than $5 or more than $200. (l) Notwithstanding any other section of this code, a vehicle issued plates under Subsection (a) shall be required to display only one license plate, which is to be attached to the rear of the vehicle. (m) In this section, "former military vehicle" means a vehicle, including a trailer, regardless of the vehicle's size, weight, or year of manufacture, that: (1) was manufactured for use in any country's military forces; and (2) is maintained to accurately represent its military design and markings. Acts 1995, 74th Leg., ch. 165, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1995. Amended by Acts 1997, 75th Leg., ch. 165, § 30.56(a), eff. Sept. 1, 1997; Acts 1997, 75th Leg., ch. 1222, § 2, eff. Sept. 1, 1997. § 548.052. Vehicles Not Subject to Inspection This chapter does not apply to: (1) a trailer, semitrailer, pole trailer, or mobile home moving under or bearing a current factory-delivery license plate or current in-transit license plate; (2) a vehicle moving under or bearing a paper dealer in-transit tag, machinery license, disaster license, parade license, prorate tab, one-trip permit, antique license, temporary 24-hour permit, or permit license; (3) a trailer, semitrailer, pole trailer, or mobile home having an actual gross weight or registered gross weight of 4,500 pounds or less; (4) farm machinery, road-building equipment, a farm trailer, or a vehicle required to display a slow-moving-vehicle emblem under Section 547.703; (5) a former military vehicle, as defined by Section 502.275; (6) a vehicle qualified for a tax exemption under Section 152.092, Tax Code; or (7) a vehicle for which a certificate of title has been issued but that is not required to be registered. Acts 1995, 74th Leg., ch. 165, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1995. Amended by Acts 1997, 75th Leg., ch. 165, § 30.121(a), eff. Sept. 1, 1997. Amended by Acts 1999, 76th Leg., ch. 963, § 1, eff. June 18, 1999; Acts 1999, 76th Leg., ch. 1423, § 7, eff. Sept. 1, 1999; Acts 2001, 77th Leg., ch. 1420, § 19.006, eff. Sept. 1, 2001. § 545.106. Signals by Hand and Arm or by Signal Lamp (a) Except as provided by Subsection (, an operator required to give a stop or turn signal shall do so by: (1) using the hand and arm; or (2) lighting signal lamps approved by the department. ( A motor vehicle in use on a highway shall be equipped with signal lamps, and the required signal shall be given by lighting the lamps, if: (1) the distance from the center of the top of the steering post to the left outside limit of the body, cab, or load of the motor vehicle is more than two feet; or (2) the distance from the center of the top of the steering post to the rear limit of the body or load, including the body or load of a combination of vehicles, is more than 14 feet. Acts 1995, 74th Leg., ch. 165, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1995. § 545.107. Method of Giving Hand and Arm Signals An operator who is permitted to give a hand and arm signal shall give the signal from the left side of the vehicle as follows: (1) to make a left turn signal, extend hand and arm horizontally; (2) to make a right turn signal, extend hand and arm upward, except that a bicycle operator may signal from the right side of the vehicle with the hand and arm extended horizontally; and (3) to stop or decrease speed, extend hand and arm downward. Acts 1995, 74th Leg., ch. 165, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1995. § 545.413. Safety Belts; Offense (a) A person commits an offense if the person: (1) is at least 15 years of age; (2) is riding in the front seat of a passenger vehicle while the vehicle is being operated; (3) is occupying a seat that is equipped with a safety belt; and (4) is not secured by a safety belt. ( A person commits an offense if the person: (1) operates a passenger vehicle that is equipped with safety belts; and (2) allows a child who is at least five years of age but younger than 17 years of age or who is younger than five years of age and at least 36 inches in height to ride in the vehicle without requiring the child to be secured by a safety belt, provided the child is occupying a seat that is equipped with a safety belt. © A passenger vehicle or a seat in a passenger vehicle is considered to be equipped with a safety belt if the vehicle is required under Section 547.601 to be equipped with safety belts. (d) An offense under Subsection (a) is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine of not less than $25 or more than $50. An offense under Subsection ( is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine of not less than $100 or more than $200. (e) It is a defense to prosecution under this section that: (1) the person possesses a written statement from a licensed physician stating that for a medical reason the person should not wear a safety belt; (2) the person presents to the court, not later than the 10th day after the date of the offense, a statement from a licensed physician stating that for a medical reason the person should not wear a safety belt; (3) the person is employed by the United States Postal Service and performing a duty for that agency that requires the operator to service postal boxes from a vehicle or that requires frequent entry into and exit from a vehicle; (4) the person is engaged in the actual delivery of newspapers from a vehicle or is performing newspaper delivery duties that require frequent entry into and exit from a vehicle; (5) the person is employed by a public or private utility company and is engaged in the reading of meters or performing a similar duty for that company requiring the operator to frequently enter into and exit from a vehicle; or (6) The person is operating a commercial vehicle registered as a farm vehicle under the provisions of Section 502.163 that does not have a gross weight, registered weight, or gross weight rating of 48,000 pounds or more. (f) The department shall develop and implement an educational program to encourage the wearing of safety belts and to emphasize: (1) the effectiveness of safety belts and other restraint devices in reducing the risk of harm to passengers in motor vehicles; and (2) the requirements of this section and the penalty for noncompliance. (g) Use or nonuse of a safety belt is not admissible evidence in a civil trial, other than a proceeding under Subtitle A or B, Title 5, Family Code. (h) In this section, "passenger vehicle," "safety belt," and "secured" have the meanings assigned by Section 545.412. (i) A judge, acting under Article 45.0511, Code of Criminal Procedure, who elects to defer further proceedings and to place a defendant accused of a violation of Subsection ( on probation under that article, in lieu of requiring the defendant to complete a driving safety course approved by the Texas Education Agency, shall require the defendant to attend and present proof that the defendant has successfully completed a specialized driving safety course approved by the Texas Education Agency under the Texas Driver and Traffic Safety Education Act (Article 4413(29c), Vernon's Texas Civil Statutes) that includes four hours of instruction that encourages the use of child passenger safety seat systems and the wearing of seat belts and emphasizes: (1) the effectiveness of child passenger safety seat systems and seat belts in reducing the harm to children being transported in motor vehicles; and (2) the requirements of this section and the penalty for noncompliance. (j) Notwithstanding Section 542.402(a), a municipality or county, at the end of the municipality's or county's fiscal year, shall send to the comptroller an amount equal to 50 percent of the fines collected by the municipality or the county for violations of this section. The comptroller shall deposit the amount received to the credit of the tertiary care fund for use by trauma centers. Acts 1995, 74th Leg., ch. 165, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1995. Amended by Acts 1997, 75th Leg., ch. 165, § 30.115(a), eff. Sept. 1, 1997. Amended by Acts 1999, 76th Leg., ch. 316, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1999; Acts 1999, 76th Leg., ch. 515, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1999; Acts 2001, 77th Leg., ch. 618, § 2, eff. Sept. 1, 2001; Acts 2001, 77th Leg., ch. 910, § 2, eff. Sept. 1, 2001; Acts 2001, 77th Leg., ch. 1042, § 2, eff. Sept. 1, 2001. =========================================

The Riviera Owner's Association has several Member Services and dealers listed in the back of the Riview. They list Jack Wyse for carbs. I have not personally used his services, because I rebuild my own carbs, but I have consulted with Jack on a small detail on my '63 and he was very helpful over the phone. The ROA would not recommend him if he was not a straight-up guy. WYSE CARBURETION Jack Wyse ROA #4735 6260 Wall Lane Paradise, CA95969 (530) 876-1993 Not a member of the ROA? Check it out: http://www.rivowners.org/index.html The best $30 you'll spend each year for sources of information about your first-generation Riviera. Post questions in the ROA section of these Forum boards, also, for help on your '63. Good luck with it. BTW, if you do not have the stainless steel plate between your carb and the intake manifold on your '63, it will often run like crap. This is probably the most common intake system mistake on the 63-66 Riv.

My experience with Dynaflows is to not panic when they leak. I have owned two now (a '50 Special and my current '63 Riviera). They tend to leak when not driven much, and the more you drive them, the leaks often slow down or stop. The warm circulating fluid seems to help soften the seals or something. I recommend you get under there and GENTLY snug up the pan bolts. You;d be amazed how they loosen up with time. Do not over tighten. Just snug. I've noticed with my Dynaflows that when they sit a long time, it seems fluid drains out of the torque converter and "overfills" the pan. If that pan is not fitting tight and not leaking, you get a leak out on the floor (like when sitting over the winter). Don't panic. Just dump some more ATF in it and drive away (Dexron III is OK, by the way). After you have driven it a while, if it is still leaking, find the source of the leak and deal with it. I know a guy who just replaced a few key seals on the torque converter and other places and all leaking went away. You need to ask around for a tranny shop that has guys that know how to deal with Dynaflow. I always tell people to look for the mechanic with the most gray hair. If the shop does not even know what a Dynaflow is when you ask them, go somewhere else. But hold off on that until you've driven it a while. Good luck with it. I think you'll enjoy the unique driving feel of a Dynaflow. You'll find you need to step on the gas a bit different from a traditional shifting automatic transmissions. I usually step gently at first and then step down more as speed picks up. I think you'll see what I mean and develop your own style.

Because it leaks!

Sounds like my '29, Dave!!! Backfire fireball was bad condenser on the distributor. I'm sure you can handle kingpins. Mechanical brakes can work quite well. Just get all the slack out of the system by carefully restoring as you go, and adjust them all just right.

My '63 Riviera is called "Natalie". I read several years ago that Natalie Wood was given a brand new 1963 Buick Riviera by Robert Wagner. So my '63 Riv just had to be called Natalie. Quite a fitting name. She's beautiful!

There is a little horseshoe shaped clip that needs to slide out from behind the handle with the tool that Ed mentioned. The ends of the horseshoe are flared back out. The tool catches on these ends and pushes the clip away from the window winder shaft. I agree with him, go get the tool. There will probably be a picture on how to use it that will make it clear.

Do you mean the window crank handles?

Post same question to ROA page. Lots of Riv knowledge there.

You are right, Bill, it is not not that hard. I have done it on many engines. The biggest risk is that you don't get the gaskets sealed well on the valve covers and you end up with oil leaks (which you may have right now anyway) or you don't get the intake manifold sealed properly and you end up with a vacuum leak which throws the idle off. But I would not do it for "one maybe two noisy lifters", as the original post said. Those one or two lifters would have to be really bad to justify tearing into it, IMHO. Several noisy lifters (which I think you had) is different. That starts to be worth the time and effort. In fact, I have one, maybe two, noisy lifters on my '63 right now. I tried the sea foam (no difference). I tried MMO. I have not tried ATF yet; might do that before next oil change. Main problem with oil additives is that if the lifter is noisy because oil is not getting into it, the additive won't get into it to clean it...

My advice is to leave it alone. Wait until you really have a reason to tear into it.

I did what Bill did on my '63 back in March 2006, keeping it all original (as much as possible) and doing most of the work myself. The cost to me was probably about the same as Bill quoted. (I never had the nerve to add up all the receipts .) I do not think you will do the aftermarket A/C for much less than this, but I never priced it out. I chose to charge with R-12. I found a bunch of it for $10/lb, so the cost to use it was not too bad. With all the new stuff, it seems to not leak out. Cools REALLY well. We were very comfortable driving over to Flagstaff last summer for the ROA meet with it. YMMV.

ZW- Check out these pictures from our member in Sweden and compare his side mirror placement to yours. Then you'll see what I mean about looking through the window or the vent. https://lagring.storegate.se/user/Pictur...fb-b0c07b3e4332 This car is late enough to have the spare mounted up on the shelf.

This is a common problem. The plastic housing on your turn signal control wire has probably broken loose from the metal grommet crimped to one end or the other. Look at the end connected to the switch first (because it is out in the open) while you actuate the signal. See if the plastic housing seems to slide away from the switch. If it does, it is broken. If not on that end, then probably on the signal lever end. Can't see that end so easy. Take the aluminum cover off of the under side of the column. Hold the turn signal cable housing from moving with your thumb while you operate the turn lever. If that seems to fix it, the cable has parted up inside the column head. Temporary fix (and you can not move the tilt column after you do this, so put it where you like it and remove the tilt lever): to wrap a stainless hose clamp around the column and control wire housing (but not the horn wire) close to the end where it is broken from the end grommet. That holds it from moving when you operate the lever. I do not think the spring down on the switch does a darn thing, and I suggest you remove it. I think it puts excessive strain on the plastic control wire housing when you tilt the column up, thus breaking the grommet loose from the housing at one end or the other... HTH.