Jim Cannon

Silver.

With the key held in the crank position, try moving the transmission selector through the full range from Park to Low, slowly, and back. Do it several times. See if it cranks in any of those places. The neutral safety switch may have bad connection inside or be out of adjustment (cranks between positions).

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: gdiwicker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What would be the correct color for the exhaust system of a 64 Riviera?</div></div> RUST!

Just hold on to it until I figure out a way to open them without destroying them. Then I will be ready for a second "victim". I was able to open my other vacuum motor on the firewall and rebuild it. The dual can has been a tougher nut to crack.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jimtash</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Jim, you are a lifesaver. Thanks a whole bunch man. </div></div> No problem. The next time I am in Asheville you can show me your car, and buy me a beer! PS - don't throw that old double actuator away. I have not figured out yet how to open the can, replace the diaphragm, then reassemble, but I'm working on it. I will need some old dead units to experiment on.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Good suggestion, Jim Cannon. Fair price, too. I like the idea that you deal with the guy who actually does the work. He will tell you exactly what went wrong with the old unit. </div></div> Yea, he really knows his stuff. Pretty quick turn around, too. Tell him I said "hi".

The dual diaphragm under the blower on the '63 is actually 2 diaphragm cans stacked on top of each other. It is not available new from any aftermarket supplier that I know of. Getting a good used one or looking for NOS is your only option. You can make the 2-port diaphragm that Old Air Products sells work in this application, if you are willing to depart from original. (Because it is out of sight, under the blower, it is not very obvious that you are no longer original.) The main problem you find with the OAP 2-port diaphragm is that you can no longer get the "part open" position of the actuator. You need to plug the vacuum hose that would normally put the diaphragm in the part open position, and T- the other vacuum hose (the full open hose) into both ports of the 2-port diaphragm. I did this on my '63. Then you get full open or full recirculation, never partial recirculation. The reason you need to do this is because of the way the Old Air Product diaphragms are all inside the same can. The original stacked cans were separate and you could apply vacuum to one port or the other (or both) and not have anything leak between them. The OAP 2-port diaphragm requires vacuum on just the outer port for partial movement and vacuum on both ports for full movement. That is not what our '63 heating-A/C controllers gives us down at that position.

Contact "Booster Dewey" about rebuilding your unit. http://boosterdeweyexchange.com/ 503.238.8882 Power Brake Booster Exchange, Inc. Vacuum Brake Booster Rebuilders 4335 SE 63rd Ave. Portland, OR 97206 This is all he does.

I agree with simplyconnected that the problem is the booster. It is applying and not releasing.

An additional section of Texas legislation you need to carry: § 547.601. SAFETY BELTS REQUIRED. A motor vehicle required by Chapter 548 to be inspected shall be equipped with front safety belts if safety belt anchorages were part of the manufacturer's original equipment on the vehicle. Acts 1995, 74th Leg., ch. 165, § 1, eff. Sept. 1, 1995. This is referenced in my earlier post. I tried to edit the earlier post and add this but could not. Note: this says if front seat belt anchors were in the original car, seat belts are required.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Stoneberg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Hi Jim, Loving life in Austin, so much more relaxed the Houston. Now if I could sell my house..... Did you ever paint your carb or did you just clean it real well ? Mine looks like hell and was wondering . </div></div> Sorry to hear about the house. I have heard things are slow. I did not paint the carb. What you see there is the result of days of soaking in carb cleaner and hours of scrubbing with my dremel and a metal cleaner/polish, followed by Nevr-Dull wadding polish. I sure wish there was an easier way to clean that aluminum. I have another carb to do here that is not as bad. About 8 years ago I had a guy at a transmission shop clean the body with a "soda blaster" that they use for small aluminum parts of automatic transmissions (very safe for aluminum). I would not recommend that to anyone; the soda cleans too well.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill Stoneberg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thats a nice stand Jim I am getting to rebuilding my carb and I may have to use that idea. </div></div> Hey, Bill! How's Austin treating you? Just 4 carriage bolts, some nuts and washers. Works really well. If I were to do it again, I would use a slightly larger piece of plywood for the base. You can not see in these photos but the nuts under the carb base are fiber lock nuts so that once you get them set where you want them, they do not move around. Sometimes I use one nut on top to hold the carb to the base, sometimes I put all 4 on (when I want to be able to invert the carb body to spray cleaner or air in there). I did not do anything to the carb linkage except clean it. I have seen some of this linkage for sale in a gold cad plated finish. I don't like that look with the silver colored carb. I don't know what the linkage plated was originally. Looking at the pieces I have and the edges of them, I think it looks like it was silver cad plated. I need to learn how to do that.

Oh, yea, I read it all, too, Darwin! BTW, I know of an original '63 Riv with the original factory tires still on the factory rims, with 17k miles on them. They were Firestone Gum-dipped blackwalls (on a bare bones car with zero options). It would be interesting to know which manufacturers were used originally.

The correct AFB for a '63 Riv with the 401 engine is the 3503. I have attached a photo of one I recently rebuilt. I hope it answers your question but if not, ask again.

Thanks, Steve. I have the book full of reprints fo the original Ford Service Bulletins. I will look for those other 2 books. I do belong to a local Club, I know I can get help and reference material from them. I just want to get a couple of the best all-around references for myself.

I am beginning mechanical restoration of my '29 A (brakes and steering right now) and would like suggestions on the 1 or 2 books, reference manuals, shop manuals, etc. you guys would recommend that I get before I start. I don't want to drown in a pile of books. What are the 2 "best"? Thanks!

REO was initials of Ransom E Olds, founder of Oldsmobile. Check out historic article on him: http://jliptrap.us/Reo.htm A sharp guy.

Tom- Your car build date intrigues me. Mine was built first week of Nov. Do you have the "smooth dash" or the "ribbed dash". A 158 bulb should be available at any auto parts store. It is still in use. 2005 Nissan Maxima glove compartment, for example. No, the 161 and the 1893 bulbs have different base. But there are other substitutions you can do get more candle power with same base. Replace #161 Bulbs with #194 (gauge cluster) #1893 Bulbs replace with # 1816 ( htr / a/c control panel) The clock should be # 1816 . Replace the panel light fuse from 3 amp to 5 amp.

Tom- When you are in there, you can replace the instrument bulbs with slightly brighter bulbs to see them a bit better at night. You don't need brighter bulbs on the idiot lights, but on the bulbs that illuminate the speedo, etc. BTW, could I get an up close photo of the data plate on your '63 above the brake booster? I collect build data on '63 Rivs. Thanks!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: jimtash</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I wish he would carry the pieces separately. All I need is the radio console. </div></div> Due to slight fading and discoloration of the original, your new piece would stand out as slightly different. Even if his replacement vinyl pattern is "the same' as original, it might differ slightly from your original. When you replace it all you guarantee a good match between all pieces and it will look really good.

Dick- How can you tell the difference? What is different on the '63 shroud, compared to the '64-65? I'll be looking for a shroud for my '63 soon and want to know what to look for. Thanks.

Lou- These switches are a known weak spot on these cars. Replacements are not readily available. They show up used now and again. Paul Meltzer (ROA #760) rebuilds them. 781-769-7678 for $25/pair.

They are also being reproduced. For example, check CARS online. http://www.oldbuickparts.com Other dealers probably carry from same supplier.

Check fuel pump pressure. Many electric pumps put out too high pressure for old carbs. What do you know about needle valves in carb? They might be hard rubber tips now and not sealing like they used to. Don't assume anything about exhaust valve. If you can't figure out that it is open by looking at shop manual and comparing to car, remove exhaust pipe and look up in manifold to see what you have.

Ed- I found the old photo I sent you (attached). It may not be a perfect match, but if all pieces were redone with the new material, no one would know the difference.