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Everything posted by 32Pontiac6

  1. I am in the process of restoring my 1932 Pontiac. It has leaf springs and I am looking for some advice on restoring them. They seem to be in fairly good shape and have the same length and arch. They don't seem to sag. The car leaned slightly to one side but I believe that was due to some wear on the rubber bushings on the springs and frame. My questions: 1) Should the springs be completely disassembled, stripped, and painted with rust encapsulator and then re-assembled with lube? or... 2) Should they just be cleaned and painted on the outside part that shows and loosened enough to clean and get new lube between the leafs? 3) What is the lube that should be used? I know that originally they were coated with a graphite based lube. 4) Does anybody know someone who makes the cloth covers for the springs? Thanks for your help. Rob
  2. Has anybody had any experience removing and replacing the leaf spring bushings on a 1932 Pontiac? It is a metal bushing surrounded by rubber. Any special tools or tips on the process? I see the bushings are shown in the Steele Rubber Parts catalog.
  3. I am in the process of restoring my 1932 Pontiac Deluxe Sport Coupe and have stripped the car down to the structural wood on the body. I am looking for some help on how to take care of this part of the restoration. In general the wood is very good. I need to do some replacement or repair of the wood around the top of the body where the top material is nailed. I also have some wood on the main sill that needs to be replaced. Here are my questions: 1) I was told that West System Epoxy 105 is a very good way to seal the wood. Anybody have any experience with this? Any other products used to seal the wood? 2) West Marine Penetrating Epoxy was recommended for wood that was a bit soft and weathered. It is supposed to make the wood as strong as new. Any experience with this? 3) I have been debating what to do with the joints that seem good. Should I unscrew them, coat with epoxy, glue, and screw them back together or if the joint has lasted almost 80 years don’t fool with it. Just coat with waterproofing epoxy and forget it. 4) Any advice on re-installing screws into existing holes when reconnecting pieces that have to be removed, restored, and replaced? Should a size larger and longer screw be used to get a good bite on the wood after treating? Is there some type of epoxy that you can put in the screw hole to make the joint better? Any other ideas? 5) Some of the nails holding the sheet metal are a bit loose. How do you recommend re-fastening these? Longer? Slightly bigger? Some type of glue in the hole along with the nail? I appreciate any information you can provide me. Rob
  4. I am in the process of re-restoring my 1932 Pontiac Sport Coupe. Back in the late 70's I painted it with lacquer in my garage. Not a bad job but over 30 years has taken its toll and it now time to repaint with the proper original colors. I don't plan to do the painting myself this time. I am not shooting for Pebble Beach quality but do want a car that will show well in AACA events and local shows. For the most part the car will be a tourer and I also want something that is durable. I do have some questions of those of you who have been down this road lately. So here it is: 1) I have been told by some who value quality work that you can get a good job by taking the car to the commercial places like Maaco, Miracle, etc. if you do the prep and provide the paint. They are supposedly good at applying color but not great at prep. Anybody take this route before? Happy with it? 2) What was the paint system you used? 3) My plan was to strip the item, have them prime, I prepare the surface, they prime again(?), I do final surface prep, and then have them spray color. Does this sound like a good plan? 4) What did you use to strip the old paint? Chemical stripping or some type of abrasive blasting? Any help and feedback would be appreciated. Thanks, Rob
  5. Does anybody have any experience with the Delco Lovejoy shocks with ride control? I have them on my '32 Pontiac. I tested them and the adjustment did not make any difference in the force needed to move the arm. I then added some Hydraulic and Jack oil (AW 32) and they now seem to work fine. They go from very free to extremely difficult to move as you move the adjusting lever. My question is: should I just leave well enough alone since they seem to be working? Before I added the oil I was planning to rebuild but now reconsidering since they seem to be working as they should. Any help would be appreciated. Rob
  6. Thanks to everybody who provided input. I used the Hydraulic and Jack Oil (AW 32) and it seemed to work. Thanks! Rob
  7. 32Pontiac6

    Shock Oil

    Does anybody know the fluid that would be used in Delco Lovejoy shocks used in early 1930's GM cars? I have a '32 Pontiac with them.
  8. Had exactly the same problem with my '32. Worked and tinkered and played with it until I decidted to try a new coil. Installed new coil and it starts right up every time..hot or cold.
  9. According to the Pontiac repair manual the carburetor for a '31 is the same as for a '30. It is a Marvel AA 3 S. It is pot metal and fragile. They are not easy to come by.
  10. Hi Tom, On your first question about the wheels I don't have any first hand experience but Pontiac did use a 19 inch wheel in '31. I am not sure if you are planning to do this to lower RPM at a given speed. Seems like this is what you were suggesting. I think the only problem is that I believe both the 18" and 19" wheels have a tire OD of 29". They just have different thickness of tires. But possibly somebody has a good idea on this. It is funny that you ask about some type of overdrive unit. I have wondered that too but have not heard of one for the Pontiac. I know these units were somewhat common in the 30's for other cars so I am surprised if they did not exist for the Pontiac. I was talking to a friend in the vintage Chevrolet club and he was telling me about ones that fit on older Chevys. One problem with the '32 Pontiac is that you have both the transmission and then the Free Wheeling unit behind it. Then you would hang a third unit on this mass. I think I will post in the general area of the forum to see if anybody knows about a unit for the '32. Hope all is well with you. Rob
  11. Great to know that rebuild kits are avaliable! I need to get one for my Marvel. I am currently running a Zenith that came out of an industrial engine. I agree with the comments on gravity fed carbs but that is not the case with the '32 Pontiac. the fuel level is below the carb and needs to be pumped. My car does not leak fuel. If the car sits for a month or two the bowl will be empty but that appears to be due to evaporation. I have never seen any fuel leakage with mine (unless there was a problem). My gravity feed experience came with a Caterpillar 22 at my grandfather's ranch....yep they can leak.
  12. Hi Tom, How is it going? I am the Tech Advisor for 32's and we corresponded a while back. I thought I would chime in on your questions. Regarding your carb. Are you running the original Marvel in your car? I am not sure your leaking is due to a float problem. If it were the float it would only seem to be a problem when the car is running. It would not leak when the car is off. It sounds like the drain plug on the bottom of the bowl may be leaking or you have a crack in the carb body. The original ones are pot metal and a bit fragile. The other comment is on speed. While Reid's car has the same final drive as your coupe you are probably running 18" instead of 19" wheels. That would mean that for the same speed as his car our engine has to run about 3.5% faster. For our cars the 1700 fps is about 49 mph. I tend to not drive mine much faster than that unless I really have to. I have had it up to 65 before. The other factor is brakes... stopping can be an issue, as you probably know. But Reid is the expert on those old 6's.. he has a ton of miles on his car. My car gets about 15 mpg and it has pushed close to 20 on longer tours. Can you upload some pictures of your car the the Facebook site? I would love to see it. Rob
  13. I did not see a description of the car. My records indicate that 32309 is a valid number for a four door sedan. Is that what you have? I am not sure about the frame number being a sequence starting at 729000. My car, which has casting dates from March 1932, has a number of C-2508-P6. It does not match that pattern. Reid, where did you get that information? If your car is a 4 door sedan my records indicate that if your car is blue it is either: Body Fenders Wire Wheels Wood Wheels Stripe Olympic Blue Black Black Olympic Blue Aurora Red or Tacoma Cream State Blue Black Black State Blue Aurora Red or Tacoma Cream Both of these blues are quite dark. My car was Antibes Blue which is medium blue and Boatswain Blue which is a very dark blue. I hope this helps. Rob Guzzetta
  14. I am starting the re-restoration of my 1932 Pontiac and wanted to document the restoration process and provide a forum for communication between other '32 owners. To accomplish this I created a site on Facebook that will allow people to become 'fans' of the site. The Facebook name is 1932 Pontiac (pretty creative,eh?). I am in no way a Facebook expert but thought that this might be an interesting way to communicate with others interested in this car. I look forward seeing you on Facebook.
  15. I have a '32 6 with rebuilt engine but I am not running my original Marvel carb yet. When cruising around town I seem to get in the 12-14 mpg range. On the road when I am touring I get 15-18 mpg. That is curising in the 45-55 mph range. I am hoping when I rebuild the original Marvel that I may do a bit better.
  16. Reid, Thanks for your input. Hopefully the person that needs the help will appreciate it. I am always impressed with your oveall knowledge of early Pontiacs. I guess that comes with driving and working on them as much as you have. Thanks! Rob
  17. Is somebody out there knowledgable on '33 Pontiac 8's? I am the '32 Pontiac Technical Advisor for POCI and I guess I was closest to the year of his car! The gentleman said that his rebuilt engine is leaking oil out the rear of the engine. He mentioned that his oil pressure is high... about 60 psi. I wondered if the engine might be similar to the '32 and has an external pressure regulator. Is there is somebody who can talk to him about this problem? Please give me your contact information and I will pass it on the him. Thanks Rob Guzzetta
  18. Is the problem present with both the engine hot or cold? Unrelated question..but what is the body style of your car?
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