32Pontiac6

Where do they go? Also, I was not aware that LeBaron Bonney went Chapter 7.

Thanks for sharing with everybody. I think I have seen a copy of that one before someplace.... 😀

Price Reduced to $59,900 - If Interested Contact: Don memoryshelf558@gmail.com (503) 393-4500 Reposting for a friend.

Posting this for a friend. Please see contact information in data sheet if interested.

It is clearly an open car. The first open car for Pontiac was with the New Series 6-27 which were sold from July 1927 to the end of the year. They made only one open car at this time, a roadster. The body was not Fisher body but one made by Stewart. In my humble opinion they were some of the most beautiful roadsters made. Now if it is phaeton it would have to be a Series 6-28 which was produced the first half of 1928. However, if the hood ornament is correct then it would be New 6-27 Stewart Body Roadster produced sometime in the second half of 1927. Tinindian.... correct?

Liz is a modern lady who added a later grommet so she stays pretty..... Take that Tinindian...

While I have not taken the '30 down to the frame it sounds like mounting is the same as '32 tire carrier and trunk rack. Two pictures of the '32 structure and one picture showing how restoring a car should be fun....

Here are some close-ups of mounting. I have not had the cover off but I am sure there is a frame cross member that the bolts go into (threaded) or through (bolted). Hope this helps.

Are you asking about one between the frame that holds the lens and the light body? Or what Tinindian responded to?

Thanks for the contact information.

Interesting car. I am pretty sure this car was for sale in Hemmings about a year ago and in pieces. It looks like somebody got it back together. I keep a database of all 1932 Pontiacs and this one is on my list but with ownership "unknown". Do you have any contact information for the seller? I am the Pontiac-Oakland Club tech advisor for '32 and would appreciate getting some current information on ownership. I can't read what the sign says about the number surviving but I do have 13 of this body style on my list worldwide. It is actually called a convertible coupe Model 32318. While my database is not perfect I think saying there are 10-15 survivors is not unreasonable. However, from those records I think there are probably only half or less of them that are in drivable condition. Additionally, there are two remaining V-8's of this body style that I am aware of. From what paint is left it looks like it was was two tone blue and probably the same colors as my sport coupe in my profile picture. Antibes Blue and Boatswain Blue. It would be a beautiful car if restored.

I agree with the Tinindian...

Do you have a photo you can share? One thing I found out was that the hotrod shops can do magic with fenders. My '32 had a boo boo on it and they did a great job bringing it back to life. They can do amazing things to fenders with the modern equipment and welding methods. However, I will keep my eyes open for you. Just my 2 cents...

I tried to recreate my '32 as close to original as possible (reasonable). The car still had original paint under an overspray when I bought it. I painted it in the 70's but did not strip to bare metal at that time. This time I stripped to bare metal. As I did this I tried to carefully sand through each layer as before I used the chemical strip. The best I can tell is that, at least on the '32, the reveal was only painted only on the first section. I can't be 100% sure on this but I am pretty sure this is how it was painted on the '32. I agree with Reid. Any further is too much. Note that this photo was before pen striping.

Reid- You know my email... I would like a copy of the article, please.

My '30 was originally paint code 2021. Paul - Thanks for the comment on the '32.

I think the area you are talking about is called the reveal. I have attached a photo of my 1932 Sport Coupe showing the reveal being painted the body color (Antibes Blue). If you check the paint specs on the Auto Color Library you will see that the ‘32 specs show a separate reveal color. With respect to your ‘30 I would be surprised if they painted the reveal black routinely. If you look at the color library they do not specify a reveal color for 1930’s. I have included three photos: #1 is of my ‘32 showing the reveal painted. #2 is from the 1930 sales brochure showing a custom sedan. It does not look to me like the reveal is painted on this car. #3 is another photo of a custom sedan from the same brochure and it is hard to tell if it is painted or not. #4 four door sedan from sales brochure clearly showing reveal painted the trim color It is my contention that specific color schemes may have had a reveal painted to the belt color but I don’t think there were black ones painted (unless the contrasting color was black). From photo #3 (which if I remember right was the original color scheme of your car) you could probably paint it black or not. If you were serious about showing the car I doubt there would be a judge that could say it is right or wrong. Tinindian may weigh in on this... I would be interested in hearing his thoughts as he also has quite a library of information both between his ears and in paper form.

I don’t know what the normal practice is but I removed mine before paint by prying them out just enough to get something around them like a water pump pliers and squeeze them to deform them enough to take out. How they work is that they are smooth when new and the tool punches a notch in them which catches the wood and does not allow them to come out. If you are careful the crude method I suggested won’t damage anything. When you put them in after paint make sure that you know were the wood is so that you can set the tool to put the punch hole in the right location because taking them out after a mistake will damage the paint (do you sense I have had some experience in this area?).

Unfortunately the numbers you give don’t show up on your post. Some observations (for what they are worth): 1) The top picture is interesting. It looks line we are looking at the A pillar and passenger door. From the photo the A pillar almost looks like it has a curve in it. If you run a straight edge against it does show it is flat? 2) Is the top part of the A pillar original or has it been replaced? 3) Have you checked to see that the door is square? 4) I am not sure what I am looking at in the middle picture. However, there seems to be some suspect wood on the right side of the photo. 5) There is clearly adjustment needed from the last photo. One thing I did when I fit mine was to stand back and get a shot that showed both top and bottom of the door and look at gaps on all 4 corners as you stand back. That helps to visualize how things need to move and rotate to get them square (or as close as you can get it). 6) My one concern is that there is some bad structural wood on the car. Without a good foundation the doors will pull and rack because of their weight (as Tinindian says) and that would be the first thing I would check if in your garage. You need a strong main sill and all the pillars as well as the door frame wood strong enough to take the weight of the wood. Additionally, the wood needs to take all the impact loads from potholes and road hazards. My 2 cents worth.

Bruce, Any way you can post side view photos of your car? If the gaps are not obvious also give some dimensions. I just went though this fun process with my ‘32 Sport Coupe. One point that is sometimes neglected is the front bolts where the cowl bolts to he body. That and the A pillar can rotate the door to align gaps at the B pillar. It is a frustrating process and unless you have a car with PERFECT wood, getting the doors PERFECT might be impossible. Some photos and dimensions might help in providing some suggestions. Rob

Please note email for Rob Guzzetta is: splithead6fan@gmail.com

Reid, if you bring Tinindian to a Flathead Reunion West she can either meet Liz or Poppy.... One of them will be there.

I added it to my scanned split head data that I share with people who ask questions. Thanks.

Regarding the three connection switch my speculation is input, normally open output, normally closed output.

Here are some photos of my setup. These were taken on the drivers side. Probably should get a shot tomorrow from the passenger side of the smaller spring. I probably should also clean up some of the grease... The long spring on ‘Liz’ looks very similar to the one on ‘Tinindian’.