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32Pontiac6

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Everything posted by 32Pontiac6

  1. As reference in the Tinindian link, Bill Hirsch has good quality paint that he sells as Pontiac Green '30-'39. I have used it several times on my '32 and it seems to hold up very well. Regarding transmission, my speculation (and it is just that speculation) is that the engine and transmission were the same color because they were installed together at the factory. I base this on a video I have seen on YouTube that shows a Chevrolet assembly plant in the mid-30's. The engine and transmission are dropped into the frame after the front and rear end were already installed. While black and white the film shows the engine/transmission color to be different from frame, front end and rear end. I speculate that this method would have likely been used by Pontiac and that it probably had not changed from the 20's. Also, seeing old footage of other manufacturers shows the engine/transmission unit going in at the same time. Here is the video: https://youtu.be/8bT6txm4RpA
  2. A local radiator shop told me they could get the honeycomb core to match my '32 Pontiac. I don't remember what the cost would be. However, my 1930 Pontiac has a Breastworks radiator that was installed in 2009 by the previous owner. Have an invoice for $2,406.53. Not sure what it would be now. The car runs very cool. Normally about 180 degrees. On the hottest days this summer it was close to 190 but never overheated. My 2 cents worth.
  3. 32Pontiac6

    Chrome

    Thanks for the input. I have heard good things about Sherm's from another person so I sent them pictures of what I want done and we shall see what the definition of 'NOT cheap' really is.
  4. 32Pontiac6

    Chrome

    Does anybody have any recommendations for platers that will chrome pot metal? It is for my '32 Pontiac. I would be especially interested in somebody is in the Northern California area but. Thanks for your help, Rob
  5. I would be interested in seeing the photos. As you look at the front of the car the engine rotates clockwise. So that means under power the forces should be for the driver side to be pushed down and the passenger side to lift. But the forces would reverse when you are going downhill using engine compression I believe so both sides need to be fastened down. At least that is my view of the physics.
  6. Thanks for all the good information. That sounds like a good option. I will have to Google their locations and see if it can work out.
  7. I am purchasing an engine and transmission for a 30's Pontiac in another state and wonder what options there are for having the parts commercially trucked to my home. I want to compare this option to me paying for the gas and spending two nights on the road. Are there commercial trucking companies that will do this job?
  8. When I first had my engine rebuilt in about 1978, I assembled it and did not put that front timing cover seal in (ok..I was only 24..and I swear there was not one in the gasket set). If that is missing or in poor condition the leak is continual and while running not while stopped (except for what will seep through the hole in the frame cross member). I actually made one out of hard cork and coated it with JB weld and it lasted until now when the engine came apart again after over 35 years. Tinindian - if the return holes are plugged for the slingers might that cause after running seepage front or rear? I have also included a couple of shots of the front motor mounts. I used a 1/8" thick diaphragm material and 1/4" neoprene both top and bottom (total of 3/4"). Both were purchased at a local hardware store. I tried several combinations but this gave me the thickness, after the engine weight was on, that seemed to match what was there before. I don't know what the '29 has but the '32 actually had a single piece of foam type rubber that went around the top and bottom of the bracket on the motor. It was a one piece unit and I have no idea, other than replacing the entire plate that mounts on the block, how they replaced these back then.
  9. Pictures are worth a thousand words. Here are photos of the tools I used on my '32. I think it is likely close or identical to what you will be doing with the '29. Very rare car. Hopefully you will post what the fix was when you get there. This big allen wrench is one of those essential tools for a Pontiac split head 6. I know I had to use mine to get into the seal that keeps oil in the timing chain area inside the engine and not out.
  10. In going through some spare parts I acquired with the purchase of my 1930 Pontiac I found an original one.
  11. Doug, Sorry I can't help but will keep my eyes open for you. I sent you a private message. Rob
  12. That is a great question. I need to know the answer, too. I just had my '32 Pontiac 6 emblem re-chromed and wonder the best way to get the color on. Hope we have some experts here.
  13. Thanks Tinindian as usual you come through! Does anybody know if these are rare? I know that I have been playing with old cars for 40 years and don't recall ever seeing them. Value? Not that I want to sell them but just curious. Curti - I am assuming they are aftermarket and not an original GM accessory. The literature for my '30 shows very few accessories from the factory. I know, though, that GM did sell some accessories through dealerships at least for my '32. More research needed on this one. I have yet to find any manufacturers markings.
  14. I recently acquired a 1930 Pontiac Custom Sedan and these shades came along with the car. I have not seen any like this before and wonder if anybody is familiar with them. I can't figure out there they go or how they mount. They are very interesting and the tassels make them somewhat ornate. The shade material is not plain either. Anybody out there know about them?
  15. At least what remains of one... I will have to post a picture of my replacement one and how it adapts to the distribution pipe. Also...if this in any way helps aussiecowboy my fee is a ride in his tank if I am ever in the land down under...
  16. Well, the job is done. Thanks for you input, Hugh, and for the comments from others. I ended up with the cloth welting, then splash aprons, and then the diaphragm material on the 6 bolting points. Hugh - one thing about the tarpaper vs. welting. Could it be that the material changed between the 20's and early 30's? Trying to scrape material off my pads and frame seemed to indicate that there might have been a cloth type material.
  17. Hugh, Thanks! I was really surprised at the number of people who looked at my post but did not respond. I was thinking that maybe this is a dumb question. Your post is quite helpful. After I posted I dug through all my old parts and pieces and did find something that looked like tar paper under one of the mounting points. My plan is very similar to yours but I am going to use the fabric welting under the splash apron. It seems to most closely match the fragments I found. My body mounts at 8 points around the car. From body down the best I can determine for the mounting points is: 1/4 or 1/8 inch wood strip attached to main sill, 1/4" + - rubber pad (the pad looks like diaphragm material with reinforcement inside) then the mounting point. I am using diaphragm rubber to make these mounting pads. I considered the neoprene material but it seems much softer than what I found the original pads to have and it does not have the reinforcement. I am making some metal shims, if necessary, to square up the doors after the body is bolted down. I will sandwich the shims with 1/16" diaphragm rubber or possibly neoprene if the diaphragm is too thick. I was surprised at the number and size of the body bolts for your car. My car has 8 mounting points with 7/16" carriage bolts. Thanks again for your help. While I am sure my process does not match exactly what was done in the factory in 1932, it is close and will surely work. Rob
  18. The parts book shows that the thermostat has the same part number from 28-32 for 6's.
  19. I posted this on the Technical Forum but with no help. Do any of my flathead friends have any advice? I need help on how to mount the body of my 1932 Pontiac Sport Coupe. The body bolts to the top of the frame at the firewall, and first door pillar. There is mount that attaches to the side of the frame just rear of the back door pillar. The rear mount is a metal bracket that bolts on the top of the frame. Each mounting point had a pad that was approximately 3" x 2" by 1/8" thick. My questions is what is used, specifically where the splash apron is installed. I have some 1/8" think by 2" webbing material that I plan to use between the splash apron and frame. I was also thinking of using another piece between the splash apron and body. I don't know if this plan is correct. Any help or pointing me to some reference that would describe the process would be quite helpful. Thanks, Rob
  20. I need help on how to mount the body of my 1932 Pontiac Sport Coupe. The body bolts to the top of the frame at the firewall, and first door pillar. There is mount that attaches to the side of the frame just rear of the back door pillar. The rear mount is a metal bracket that bolts on the top of the frame. Each mounting point had a pad that was approximately 3" x 2" by 1/8" thick. My questions is what is used, specifically where the splash apron is installed. I have some 1/8" think by 2" webbing material that I plan to use between the splash apron and frame. I was also thinking of using another piece between the splash apron and body. I don't know if this plan is correct. Any help or pointing me to some reference that would describe the process would be quite helpful. Thanks, Rob
  21. Thanks to all for your input! I think my question is answered. It is used for a radio antenna. The mesh is much finer than 'chicken wire' and had no structural function for the top material because it is below the top bows and supports nothing. It is suspended between the bottom of the top wood and headliner. It is in two pieces and both pieces were attached to each other with an insulated wire and then there was one insulated wire that appears to go towards the front of the car. It was cut so I don't know exactly where it daylights. I have to presume that it followed the other wiring to the dash. I have no plans to install a radio in this car but it will be simple enough to re-install the mesh and run the wire. You never know what the future holds. Thanks again for all the input. Rob
  22. I am restoring a 1932 Pontiac and found something between the headliner and top wood that stumps me. It is a wire mesh that seems to be electrically connected. I have attached several pictures of it before I removed it from the car for restoration. Does anybody know what this is for? The only thing I can think of is that it was part of a radio system in the car. Or at least it was installed thinking a radio might be eventually installed. I am ready to put the headliner back in the restored car and if I put this back it would be nice to know what it is for and how any wiring should run. Anybody have a clue? The first photos is looking at the mesh from the top of the car after the top material was removed. The second shot is from inside the car looking up. The third shot is showing a close up of the dome light and the mesh around it.
  23. Does anybody have any guidance and tips on the installation of the front and rear window of an early 30’s (specifically ’32) GM cars with rollup front window and roll down rear window in the sport coupe? The first time I restored my ’32 Pontiac I had problems with the window channel being too tight in both the front and rear windows. The glass was bound in the channel so tight that I feared breaking the regulator mechanism. I used rubber channel provided by Steele Rubber Company the first time I replaced the rubber (about 35 years ago). So my questions are:Does anybody have any recommendations on what to use for the front window? Any tips on installing it? What did you use on the rear window? Since the coupe has a drainage system within the passenger compartment, I have to assume that the rear window was not completely watertight. Did it use the same type of channel as is used in the doors or was it a rubber channel? Any installation tricks for that one?Thanks, Rob
  24. I am in the process of restoring a 1932 Pontiac Deluxe Sport Coupe and am looking for somebody who has a 1932 Chevrolet Sport Coupe with a Hampton Coach interior installed. It is my belief that the Hampton kit for deluxe models will work with my '32 Pontiac. What I am interested in is: 1) Getting some photos of the interior to see if it does look like the interior from my Pontiac 2) Finding a car near me to see it in person and confirm dimensions and details. I live in the San Francisco Bay area. My guess is that the critical piece is the door panel. I know that both the Chevy and Pontiac deluxe models have fancy garnish molding and stitching on the doors and need to confirm their similarities. Any help that can be provided would be greatly appreciated. Rob
  25. Did you receive the information you needed? If not, I would be happy to try to get the information to you that you need.
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