32Pontiac6

I checked the parts book and Googled some 533's and you are right. Separate part numbers for 526 and 533. I have only had the car 3 years and am still learning. You provided my fact for the day. Thanks.

Interesting car. The headlights are later than '28. The 526/33 had drum headlights. The fenders also have a beading around the edge that the 5 series does not have. See photo of my car. Mine is an early production car (Fall 1927). I do love the cowl lights on that vintage Packard. Need to find some for mine.

Unfortunately, the parts book does not show the radiator out of the shell. Here are some bad photos of the '30 radiator in my car. If it is the right one for my car I would be interested in acquiring it. Let me know if the one you have looks similar to this.

I have a 1930 Pontiac Custom Sedan that has a good wheel, so I don't have any leads on how to fix the one you have. Have you checked Hemmings Motor News for vendors who do this? I am sure this is a common repair. If you need dimensions or photos of my wheel I would be happy to provide. I would also suggest you connect with clubs and chapters that focus on Pontiac and Oakland for resources. I am tech advisor for 1930 and 1932 Pontiac for the Pontiac Oakland Club. There is also a west coast Zoom group that meets to discuss Pontiac and Oakland cars of your era. I also have a website with lots of information on splithead era ('26-'32) Pontiacs: https://pontiacsplithead.com Send me a personal message here or email at: splithead6fan@gmail.com I can help you with some resources. I am in San Jose and would like to hear more about your car. Rob

@29GMC Clearly a period correct engine for that truck. If you let me know the serial number of the block we can probably tell what year engine it is. The serial number would be on the driver side of the block just above the dipstick.

Ross... I have yet to find another, too. I have also found some interesting information on Frank Fithen online that helps tell his story. I just sent you an email. Rob

I found the article about the the car and driver. His name was Frank Fithen of Steubenville, OH. https://www.hemmings.com/stories/2011/07/25/frank-fithen-the-armless-auto-speed-king @58L-Y8 @1912Staver @Restorer32

It is a great story that I read about a while back. Do you have the (any) articles about the driver and the car. As I recall he went around the country driving this car and put a huge number of miles on it. Thanks- Rob Guzzetta

It will be interesting to see what it is. A Model 42 is a lot smaller... 116" vs 130" wheelbase.

It is interesting you post this photo. I was talking to somebody about this car and driver the other day. I remember reading an article about him and it was quite a story. Do you have any background information on the driver? It was a story in what I seem to recall as one of the car magazines. Rob

Thanks! Hope to hear what you find in the pump.

What was the cause of the squeak? Front bushing or something else? Also I would like to see a couple of photos of the block with it out and the pump itself (impeller etc). It would be good information for me and others. Putting it back on and adjusting the belt tension. I would post on my 5th series Packard Facebook Page https://www.facebook.com/Packard5th/ Thanks.

I have found that a good machine shops can rebuild pumps of this vintage. It may be that somebody tightened the belt too much or did not lube the bushing and it is worn with too much shaft play. Also, the belt on a 528 is tightened by rotating the pump around one of the bolts into the block. Do you have a parts or repair manual for this car? They are reprinted and quite good. The Packard Club: https://www.packardclub.org also has good information online and a forum that is useful. I don't know anything about the vendor that @keiser31 recommended. Good luck. Rob

I think the screw type gun will work fine but if you want to use a grease cup that is fine, too. Just make sure you see the lube coming out of the return hole to make sure it has thoroughly lubed the bushing.

Words matter.... I have one of the twist type (and that is what seems to be implied by the Packard manual description) that is always filled with the waterproof lubricant for the three water pumps I shepherd. It is a vintage one. @Grimy PS: I also edited the original post.

Actually, the twist kind of gun is what I use on pumps. But because there is not a seal and this is just a bushing to take up the thrust on the front of the pump and there is a relief hole I don't think that is too risky to use hand pump. Packard service manual says 'use a high pressure grease gun giving two or three turns' for water pump grease fitting.

I (and others) suggest using a screw type grease gun. The Packard manual implies that is what is used for this job. The fitting is on the bottom of the pump and a relief hole is on the top side. This way you see that the lube has gone all the way through. It also allows you to be able to flush old lube out. A pump or two and you will see grease coming out of it. I have used Lubriplate 115 for water pumps. As the ad says... "Ask the man who's lubed one..." or something like that.....

The Oakland Service manual does not specify a tightening sequence or recommended torque for the '30 Pontiac 6. They do provide some instruction on the V-8. My process is to tighten per the sequence shown on the photo. I torque to 60 ft-lbs. I progressively torque using the pattern below to 20, 40, then 60 ft lbs. Another thing is that after you run the car and get it warm I suggest tightening again (and again) until they stay at 60. I have found after the first run of the car the bolts will rotate maybe 1/8 of a turn to reach torque spec. No guarantee this is the proper method but it has worked well for me on both a '30 and '32 over the years. Hope this helps. Rob

@rossatisola @Peter R. @Bloo Peter R's post shows how it goes together. I am not exactly sure what is going on here. Just know that the gear at the bottom of the distributor has a pin that could shear off and keep the distributor shaft from turning. Not sure from you original post if that is the problem. The Oakland Service Manual does show advance vs. RPM for this distributor, too. Also, the data provided is very helpful because it shows interchangeability of cam and other parts with different model Delco distributors. Let us know what you find.

@95Cardinal Thank you. It looks like they have exactly I need. Rob

My '28 Packard 526 sedan is in need of a new exhaust system. The car was barn found and who knows how long it has had the existing exhaust system in it. Question: Are there any vendors that make prefab exhaust kits for this year and series Packard? Am I better off to just have the exhaust and tail pipe made up in a shop? Muffler supplier? This car will not be a Pebble Beach car but I want something that looks and sounds period correct. I continue to sort out in preparation of the Packard National Event next year in California. Any help appreciated. Rob

Thanks for you effort but it looks like I have the photo now.

@oldcarfudd and @Larry Schramm Thanks for the photos! Rob

Got it! Thank you to those who posted the photo. I brought it into Lightroom and doctored it up a bit. Thanks again!

I posted here looking for people who have driven their horseless era Oaklands many miles. This is a link to that post: One of the cars that has been well used was a 1912 Oakland Touring. The owner did not have a photo that he could include with our email but said it was pictured in an old edition of the Horseless Carriage Gazette: Horseless Carriage Gazette Vol. 79, No.2 Mar-April 2017, pg 18 Unfortunately the club website site does not have old editions online that far. If somebody has this issue I would appreciate a cellphone photo that page so I can see a photo of this car. Hopefully this does not run afoul of copyright issues. I am a member of HCC. Thanks Rob