Clipper47

I have a set on my Packard that are now 29 years old with about 90% tread and no sidewall cracks but they seem to ride very harsh so I suspect that the rubber gets hard after so many years. I am planning on replacing them this winter since at this age they are probably very unsafe. You should do the same.

West, May I ask who rebuilt the shocks?

Thanks John. It's the next best thing to being there! <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">How expensive are these lifters? A local here had his 1953 engine rebuilt but they put in mechanical lifters because of the cost??? </div></div> Kanter charged me $27.50 for one rebuilt plunger assembly for my 356" so 16 would be $400! I'd try the ATF/Rislone method first. I didn't know that the hydraulic lifter engines could be adapted to solid lifters? Please tell me more.

Albert, You are absolutely right; grinding the valve stem in this case would make the noise even worse.I wasn't suggesting that the valves be ground to reduce the noise! Often engines that sit for long periods have sticking lifters and driving quite often solves the problem. A qt. of ATF might do the trick as would my old standby Rislone especially since the engine was rebuilt and likely free of sludge.

I think that the 359's have hydraulic valve lifters. Easy enough to check by removing the valve side plate for a look. It may be an annoyance but I would drive the car a few miles before I worried about it. My '47 probably wasn't driven 1000 in 50 years and when I got it it had several lifters which clattered. After a couple of highway trips of 250 miles the lifters are quiet. Checking the lifter clearance is not a terribly big job but does require a special tool which is available for about $10. The valve to lifter clearance is adjusted by grinding the valve stem. I use Shell Rotella T 15/40 oil.

I did the harness on my 47 before paint. I had good plans with the harness I bought from Rhode Island Wire so I hacksawed the old harness off at the firewall and pulled it through to make moving the old harness wires around under the dash easier. It is much easier with the seats out so you can lie down under the dash as you work. It was easier than I thought. One consideration is that if you want to paint the firewall it might be easier to do if you don't push the new harness through the firewall until that job is done.

I agree that hot oil pressure at idle is not a big concern. I have T'd in a pressure guage at the line where the pressure sender unit is located. The guage pressure using 15/40 Shell Rotella T is 40lb.@ cold idle but after a highway trip in summer heat the dash guage shows about 15lb. and the inline guage shows only about 5. The engine doesn't seem to mind as the lifters and bearings all run quiet.

If you are not strictly referring to American cars and also not 2 seater sports cars I would say that the Jaguar Mark 1, Volvo 544 and Mercedes Benz 200-300 series sedans of the '50's were superior in braking and handling. The 55-56 Packard with Torsion-Level was a marvelous handling and riding car. My limited experience with a '56 Packard is that in the brake dept. they were adequate for the time.

I think this might be a gas station owner's worst nightmare.......a wood powered truck!

Maybe if they threw in a few Classics like Packard, Marmon, Pierce-Arrow etc. I'd do better. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

West, I took the part number of the original belt into the local NAPA store and the sales woman decoded the numbers to come up with the overall length, width and V- angle and then located a modern replacement. That was what I call service. Good luck. <img src="http://forums.aaca.org/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

West, I have lots of belt length to adjust the generator with the NAPA belt, in fact I had to tighten it up a bit after the car began to get warm during a recent road trip. A for the V; the belt I replaced sat too high on the pulley and the engine wasn't cooling properly but the new NAPA belt fixed that also as it sits snug in the pulley. Thanks for the help. West

I bought one for my 1947 Super Clipper 356" engine from NAPA that fits well. Gates TR30537 Green Stripe II 22 A1365 is what is marked on the belt.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Joy Brothers in St Paul, MN sold my 39 Super </div></div> They also sold my 1947 Custom Super Clipper.

Randy, This looks like a better prospect. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180022732747

My 1947 Packard was delivered by Wright Motors of Winnipeg Manitoba. The local dealer in what is now Thunder Bay, Ontario was Hill Motors who also sold Nash and International trucks. The building was demolished for a new strip mall about 15 years ago and I bought two of the beautifully made steel work benches for $40 each at the auction.

A parts cars only. If your thinking of restoring it you should get a letter of approval from your wife, your priest and your psychiatrist first.

I would like to acquire (buy, borrow) a wrench or socket to remove and adjust brackets on a Trippe Junior set of lights I own. An alternative would be a way of removing these unique bolts without damaging them.

I agree with the '32 Light Eight opinion. The curve on the upper part of the at the cowl looks right for that model.

Randy, The photo looks doctored to me. I worked on the assembly line at Chrysler canada in 1964 and if my recollection is any help the floor was usually covered with more people, tools and parts and not nice and tidy as this photo shows.

If it's a '50 Custom it should have a 356" engine with hydraulic lifters. the guides are replaced as Albert mentioned. The plunger portion of the lifters should simply lift out once the valves are removed. The plunger holder can only be removed by removing the pan and camshaft.

Rick, Thanks for the photos. I'm getting the impression that the trunk of my car is quite original as is with the grey rustoleum coating and bare floor.

Randy, They are 21st Series 46-47 Clippers so that would be my guess it was taken sometime in those years.

I am at the point in my restoration where I want to restore the interior of the trunk of my 1947 Super Clipper. Can anyone help me with the details either in pictures or written word? What I have now is a bare fibre board between the rear seat and the trunk interior. Should it be painted or covered in any way. It appears that it was not painted however. The fender walls are coated in what appears to be a tar like undercoat that is grey in colour. Should this be the correct colour or was it black or some other colour. Was the floor of the trunk covered with a capet or rubber mat? I seem to recall reading that the trunk was covered with "flocking", is this correct?Were the wiring harness wires exposed or covered in some way? Photos of an original would be best but any help would be appreciated. Thanks once again.