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johnworden1

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Posts posted by johnworden1

  1. 1 hour ago, Bloo said:

     

    Yes.

     

    But, you shouldn't have to knock GSJ158's taper loose from the spindle to adjust it. You can unclamp the outer end of the rack boot and just rotate the shaft of 120981 instead. Either way you are screwing the threads in/out of GSJ158 to make the adjustment. It makes no difference how you accomplish that.

    BINGO!!!!   Now I get it.   Thank all of you for the help.   Tomorrow we will correct an improper alignment job. 

    John

    • Like 1
  2. First of all parts identification......

    1. The threaded (male) rods at both ends of the rack and pinion. Tie rods. Correct??? 

    2. The parts (with ball joints) that thread (female) onto the male tie rods. Tie rod ends. Correct???

     

    Do the TIE RODS thread in and out of the rack for adjustment purposes  and/or is the adjustment made by turning the TIE ROD ENDs on the TIE RODs? 

     

    BTW I have 2 factory manuals (1 Bentley) and the Haynes manual. I do not see that the TIE RODS can be adjusted into or out of the rack for adjustment purposes. I am told they can. Am I going crazy??  

    Thanks.   John

  3. Since my last post I have been talking to a guy in Alberta Canada about parts I need for the 37 

    The last I heard from him he was going to inventory what he had and what he could let go of.

    I think the wildfire situation around him may have interfered with his life. 

    I will ask if he has one when we talk next. 

    Anyway I can't deviate away from the 3 large projects I need to finish before retiring. 

    That's all I can say right now.

    John

  4. Details.... Recent coil, mechanical advance, spark plug caps, carb floats, needles and jets. Top end rebuild approx. 10,000 miles ago. Breakwell & Green stainless exhaust system. Upgraded steering head bearings. Original paint except for fuel tank. Silicone knee pads on tank. Ethanol never used. 

    Everything is located in Central Iowa 50632

    Listening to offers of at least $10,000 for the machine and parts.  I reserve the right to reject any offer. I will decide when offers appear to stop.        Thank you.   John

     

                                       SOLD 8/14/21 

  5. My experience was to send the cracked grill to Wrights Custom Chrome in Grafton Ohio for plating.

    They stripped the original finish before repairing the cracks. Next they sent the grill back to me with the first copper coat applied. I fabricated a new crank hole cover in steel and sent it and the grill back for them to plate. 

    See pics. Badge is original.655847918_37DodgeBros.MCgrill.JPG.8454cd16a89359b1081a296803b7a30b.JPG102_2281.JPG.9fefe9c4ea06c5edb786e9946cd21ea0.JPG 

    • Like 4
  6. On 6/17/2021 at 8:37 AM, vicpanza said:

    Might be best not to attempt to fix the crack. If this is to be re-plated, the plater would be the best option to repair this once the copper layer is on. Just my experience. As others have noted, this is a nice and hard to find part and should restore up nice. 

    I agree. From experience let the plater fix it during their process. 

  7. This heater was in the truck when it arrived. Vintage and maker are unknown. No sign of the makers name anywhere. 

    My question concerns the 3 vent doors. It appears that they were chrome plated and striped with black 1/8" horizontal stripes 1/8" apart. Leaving a 1/8" strip of visible chrome between the black stripes. 

    HOWEVER.......  There is a trace of 1/4"  chrome visible along the bottom of one of the doors. The finish is completely gone on the 2 remaining doors. No trace of chrome or black. I know that all 3 were striped. 

    THE QUESTION IS......... where all 3 striped with 1 wider chrome exposure along the lower edge ?   See pic    Thanks    John100_3384.JPG.fd4b6d6f2884f34153067087c850e495.JPG

  8. Can be delivered no charge between Des Moines Iowa and Biloxi Mississippi  in early June. 

    Don't hesitate if you want them.   John

                                                SOLD   SOLD     SOLD

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