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Posts posted by johnworden1

  1. Only the interior hardware was nickel plated.

    So to be clear I'm reading that the interior door and window cranks, instrument bezels, w/shield crank/bezel, upper brake lever/button should be nickel.

    Thanks for the help. I want this work to be accurate. John

  2. Now I'm curious. You say the upper part of the handle was nickel plated. Was nickel plate used on the w/shield crank handle/bezel, the instrument rims, the bumpers, the headlight rims, the ram hood ornament, the window and door handles etc or just the brake lever?

    Thanks. John

    Also do you have the formula or color info for the gray?

  3. Just a suggestion on the floor board. I restored a 42 WC some time ago and while making the new floor board I made the battery access hole large enough to allow the battery to be pulled straight up or down through the board without removing the board. I fabricated a metal plate large enough to cover the access hole. It's silly to have to remove the floor mat and complete board to service the battery. I will do the same for the 37 MC in my shop now.

    It looks like your brake lever was sprayed with black paint. Can you tell if the lever was chrome plated originally?

    Thanks. John

  4. Begging everyone's pardon for jumping into this thread. I would like to know if the small medallion in the center of the black truck front bumper is a factory part? Also does anyone know of a source for the RIBBED white walls on the black one? They are not mentioned in Cokers catalog. Thanks. John

  5. Aftermarket AC units can be purchased from street rod sources. May rob the small 6 banger of power though. Disc brake setups may be available also although properly restored originals should work well. Use lower gears for descending mountain roads. These are not high speed vehicles under any circumstances. A high speed differential may end up overdriving the truck and make it unsafe. A properly restored front suspension and steering should steer easily. These trucks are not heavy. Your goal to drive the Great Race sounds fantastic. I'm restoring a 37 for a customer now.

    Luck. John Worden

  6. I will be be fabing a new steel floor for a 37 DB MC pickup fairly soon. I plan to make it in two sections as factory and press the wide ribs with my Pullmax nibbler. I will make the "V" cross braces as well. Measurements will be taken from a rusty original.

    Does anyone want me to make any of these parts for them?

    Thanks. John in Iowa 50632

  7. I am baffled as to how the rear hood (trunk?) prop fits and works. I have fitted it to what I think are all the original holes in the body and hood only to have it bind in the wide open position when trying to close it.

    I have seen a photo of a 1915 Milburn in a museum fitted with a flower vase inside on the passenger door B (striker) piller. Would a vase have been standard equipment from Milburn? The big question is does anyone have one they would part with or know of a good substitute?

    This car is nearly finished.

    Thanks for the help.

    John Worden

  8. Ransom--my DuPont procedural manuals advise a final sand with 600 wet or dry before thinking about spraying color coats. I sand the sandable primer coat with 600 grit 3M flexible sanding pads the day of painting then spray a urethane sealer coat after solvent washing the sanded primer. The sealer helps to cover any missed sanding scsratches and makes a beter base for color or basecoat.

    320 much too coarse IMO.

    Marty Lum

    X2 Good advice.

  9. One black/charcoal mesh package tray new in package. One left front wheel opening molding new in package. One used OEM bumper jack set blue with some surface rust. One partial fizz can Pontiac metalic blue paint. One set door vent window glass clear OEM 1968 codes.

    $100.00 for all plus ship. John in Iowa 50632 Thanks

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