[WTB Baker Electric Project]

OK,   I know it looks scary but the basic chassis is there. The wood wheels can be duplicated and hard rubber tires fitted.

An authentic flatbed and simple cab can be fabricated in wood like the original. 

You would need a motor/controls and a steering column. All new components are available to repower this chassis. 

The data plates are attached to the frame. 

Found and located in Iowa.     John

 

[Need help identifying Baker and Detroit electric trucks]

FWIW the Baker truck chassis I have is identified as a 1911  Model X by an aluminum data plate riveted to the left frame rail near the front.

Generally speaking determining value is difficult because so few change hands. The value is essentially what ever someone will pay for it. 

I can't help with the Detroit.     

 

[37 pickup cab/frame spacer support blocks]

OK thanks. This truck came in with freshly made plywood triangular boards in the position shown in the pic. They will have to be replaced.  

It appears that the purpose for them was to add  reinforcement to the cab floor at the 4 cowl to frame brackets bolt holes. 

I can make new ones.      Thanks for the help.       John

[37 pickup cab/frame spacer support blocks]

I assume wood blocks with cab to frame bolts passing through them were used at the 2 mounting points on both sides under the cowl.  

Can someone describe them or post a pic of them? 

Thanks.   John

[1937 Dodge MC project finally done]

Vic, 

If I'm reading correctly the running boards are OEM. Is that correct?  Was there welting between the rear fenders and aprons when you disassembled it?   John

[1937 Dodge MC project finally done]

I think I found the problem. The rubber top of the re pop running board is 5/8" thick.  

I'll probably modify running board frame brackets to lower the position of the boards which will also bring the fender down to fit the apron. 

Thanks for the tips.   John

[1937 Dodge MC project finally done]

Real nice work on the truck.

I have a question about the area where the front end of the rear fender meets the rear end of the running board splash apron and box filler panel.   

Mocking up those parts leaves a large gap between them at the point where they meet.

Is there a filler piece of some sort  to close up the misalignment gap?     I can't tell from the photos.

Thanks,     John

[37 engine splash pans]

Thanks for the help.   John

[1953 Olds 98 convertible AACA awards winner]

Red w/ black top. Located in Florida. Multiple AACA award winner. More photos in thread "Oldsmobile for sale"  Make offer.  641 474 2313 home/shop  In Iowa central time zone Thanks.

John       

[1953 Olds 98 Convert FS]

This car is still available. My phone number was listed in the first post. 641-474- 2313 home/shop central US time zone. See post #9 for price guidance. 

The photos say it all. The car is in Florida.   

Thanks,   John

[37 DB rough 1/2 ton box/tail gate FOR SALE]

Thanks.

Because the P5 stroke is fairly short it took 3-4 passes to fully form each channel to full depth. Goes fairly quickly though but is fairly hard to push through the dies even drenched with oil. 

I was thrilled to do a left and right blank and done. 

John

 

[37 DB rough 1/2 ton box/tail gate FOR SALE]

Side walls straight. End panel rust out at bottom. Turn box upside down and jump on the floor to get it back close to flat. Tail gate rust out at bottom. 

Stake pockets restorable.  Rust pitting everywhere. Lower side panels damaged. 

Anyone interested? What is it worth to you? 

Thasnks,   John 

[37 DB rough 1/2 ton box/tail gate FOR SALE]

One rough 1/2 ton 1937 DB box/tail gate.  The stake pockets could be removed and reused.  I will try to post pics Monday. Located in Central Iowa  50632

I am building a replica and this served for measurements etc. The original off the truck was in far worse condition. 

I am using a repop tailgate, tailgate hinges, end panel and restored stake pockets off the original box.

I formed the floor channels as original in each floor half with shop made tooling on a Pullmax P5 and and the side walls are included with each floor half as original. 

All the box sub rails are new as well. 

Thanks,      John

 

 

 

[37 engine splash pans]

Thanks Vic.   I also see the sheet metal piece that connects the front end of both pans together.     John

[Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project]

Thanks Alan. Concerning the 2 large openings in one of the panels, one square opening and one half oval opening, what do each of them provide clearance for? 

John

[37 engine splash pans]

I need to build replacement splash pans to replace the butchered and incomplete set I have to work with. 

Could one of you post pics of a complete set?  They don't have to be perfect by any means but mostly complete if possible. 

Thanks.

John

[Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project]

Alan,     

Assuming the engine splash pans (between frame and engine) are the same on a 37 Dodge truck as those on your truck would you have a photo of a good set or at least those that haven't been butchered? The set I have are missing sections. I'll make a new set after I see a complete set. 

I'm nearly ready to begin welding together a newly fabricated box for the 37 using a repop tailgate and front end panel. I am using original stake pockets and we formed the floor channels on my Pullmax with the seam down the middle as original. 

I'll post pics of it fairly soon.   

Your work looks good and thorough. 

Thanks for any help.     John

 

Ok Thanks.  I think I will start a thread on the topic in case yours are different than mine.    John

[Lost Topic - 1938 1/2t Engine Removal Project]

Alan,     

Assuming the engine splash pans (between frame and engine) are the same on a 37 Dodge truck as those on your truck would you have a photo of a good set or at least those that haven't been butchered? The set I have are missing sections. I'll make a new set after I see a complete set. 

I'm nearly ready to begin welding together a newly fabricated box for the 37 using a repop tailgate and front end panel. I am using original stake pockets and we formed the floor channels on my Pullmax with the seam down the middle as original. 

I'll post pics of it fairly soon.   

Your work looks good and thorough. 

Thanks for any help.     John

[door hinge ?]

Are you sure they are bent?   Fitting the doors to the door opening with them will reveal if they are damaged or not. If need be they are easy to bend. 

Luck.    John

 

[WTB Baker Electric Project]

Baker cars are a dime a dozen. LOL Just kidding.   How many Baker trucks have you seen?   Seriously though, how about a 1911 Baker Model O  Light truck project? 

John

[Fire hose]

I have 2  25' coils of  I 1/2" and 2  of 2 1/2"   used hose not to be used to fight fire. Couplings are not brass.  Keep it out of the landfill.  Make a $50.00 donation to our volunteer FD and it's yours.

Put it on your antique fire truck. 

Thanks John   in Iowa

[Any reputable pot metal restorers out there?]

From experience I can recommend Wrights Custom Chrome in Grafton Ohio.

[1938 Dodge]

I made this crank hole cover.  

[37 Dodge Brothers PU resto question]

My questions concern the floor beside the seat base. Does the floor mat extend rearward along the seat base to the B piller? 

The gusset at the B piller/floor junction has 2 screw holes in it that appear to be factory. Is the gusset covered with something? 

At the door sill where does the interior grey color terminate and the exterior cab color begin?

Thanks   John Worden

[53 Olds 98 convert FS]

Restored and winner of all major AACA awards. Car is located in Florida. Red/red/black top. Best offer. Thanks John