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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. Hey there...I'm Aaron...

    The seal kit should be the same between your Super and my Special. The seal from Fatsco will go into the torque tube flange around the prop shaft. The one that seals the splines does not come with the kit. I bought mine from Bob's Automobilia, and as mentioned in the article, made up the spring and washers from a used master cylinder rebuild kit (the 5 dollar variety). From what I remember, my Dad had to ream out the washers to fit over the shaft, but it wasn't too big of a deal. Bob's may even have those springs. Good luck! Oh yeah, one thing you may want to check...if your prop shaft has a groove worn in it from the old seal, you might want to see if the new seal will ride in that same location. You know how things pop into your mind after you're done with a job? Additionally, you might want to lube the rubber side of the torque ball retainer with some Vaseline or something. I used trans. fluid on mine, and on cold mornings, the first time out of the driveway, it makes a groaning sound as it articulates. It's fine after that.

  2. It could be the front pump cover o-ring as well. Before you take the trans out, pull off the inspection cover. You'll notice there will be several nuts (3 hold the flexplate to the converter, the rest seal the front pump cover). Make sure these are all torqued to about 25 ft./lbs. If any are loose, you'll get a gusher. Good luck! BTW, I'm pretty sure all Dynaflows leak somewhere; it's pretty much law, but it should be drops at a time, not puddles.

  3. I think most Corvair owners installed their belts tight like normal V-belts. Once you learn to adjust them pretty loose (like spinning the alternator fan with one finger loose), they're fine. Trust me, if you want to buy the Corvair, go to corvaircenter.com and do some research. They rust in strange places (especially convertibles, but not so much with the early body styles) and they have some mechanical quirks to get used to. It's not a hard car to work on, but everything's different from a typical front engined car. On the plus side, you can buy them cheap, parts are pretty readily available, and the community is willing to get its hands dirty...they like working on their cars and most people have run into your problems before. My advice: buy a good one. I bought a cheap one, and now I have more into it than if I had bought a pristine one, and mine's not even pristine! I think that goes for all vehicles though.

  4. From what I've heard and read, most cam manufacturers recommend NOT soaking them anymore. It probably wouldn't hurt anything. I've had an issue or two with seemingly sticky new lifters. I'm assuming the machining oil gets sticky as they sit on the shelf. In the future, I will probably soak lifters in a cleaning agent if anything, or disassemble them before installation.

  5. My brother in law had a '96 Regal that did the same thing. I never figured it out, but the shop did after 3 hours of fiddling. It had an internally corroded wire under the hood that (I believe) led to the underhood fuse box. It seems like it was for the ignition, but you may want to start in that area.

  6. Before I fired it up again, I might push down on the offending pushrod to check the resistance of that lifter. Can you push it down easily? If it's already pumped up, then you've got other problems. Hopefully it's just taking awhile to pump up. You may want to try readjusting just that one lifter.

  7. I can tell you one thing...10 minutes is probably not long enough. You need to run that thing for 30 minutes to break in those lifters anyway. Mine took what seemed to be forever to pump up when I replaced them. If you have the adjuster turned too far down, oil will shoot out the rocker arm and never make it down the pushrod. While it's running, make sure that oil is not spurting out of the rocker arm that's not moving.

  8. I've never owned one, but one of my favorite cars is a silver on silver '63. There's nothing about that car I don't like, other than the fact that they started going up in price just as I could start reasonably looking for one.

  9. At this point, there are quite a few things that could cause poor performance and backfiring in that car. Is this your daily driver? If so, if it's in the cards $$$, I'd take it to a shop that can deal with it. I'm sensing that you're about ready to start throwing parts at it, and that is going to be a waste of money. Like John said before, there are about a billion vacuum lines on that thing, any of which can be leaking and leaning the car out. There's an air pump check valve (most likely), but that would probably cause backfiring upon decel. I'm not sure if that car has an OBD-1 system in it, but if it does, I've tested those systems with a paper clip in five minutes. At this point, if it's NOT your daily driver, I'd do a little research, and determine a course of action. My checklist would include #1. vacuum hoses--listen for any whistling underhood. Now would be a time to pick up a vacuum gauge and do a test. #2. timing--AutoZone may rent timing lights. Learn how to use it...now's a good time. #3. Computer system? If it has one, how do I check it? That would tell you (most likely) if you have an EGR issue. #4. This car likely has the emissions QuadraJet, which has probably never been rebuilt. Who knows what kinds of problems this could cause.

    If time is not a factor, you can do this and learn some stuff as well. If time is a factor, I feel you're better off enlisting help here.

    P.S. Do yourself a favor and buy a Haynes manual for this car. I buy an original shop manual or a Haynes manual for every car I buy.

  10. Thanks! It's interesting to hear about the quirks that specific makes and models, and even engines, had. I was just curious because my 60s cars don't have the same issue...however, I do run a 160 stat in the '53, since it's mostly a warm weather car. That may add to the issue.

  11. My '53's speedometer bounces around when it's cold...It doesn't make noise, but I have a feeling it may need some service. Anyone know of a good speedometer repairer? Obviously, I don't need to break the bank either, so I guess I'd like someone who does a good job at a fair price...Thanks!

    Aaron

  12. Does anyone else have a snotty oil breather? I've noticed that my '53 (with no PCV, obviously) has been doing this, especially in the cooler weather. I assume it's because of condensation, since it also drips water from the draft tube after a longer trip as it cools down. It's not really a short trip car, and the oil on the dipstick is fine, and the lower block breather is clean. Just wondering if I'm the only one here with this issue. Nothing smells like anti-freeze or anything. The mesh in the cap collects what looks like snot. It's kind of gross.

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