Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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That thing sounds pretty mean! What kind of exhaust are you running?
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When I first got my '53, I adjusted them incorrectly cold. The "feel" of zero lash seems different on a straight-8 than a typical V8. This is a little tough to explain, but at TDC, when the rocker arm is loose (not yet at zero lash), the tip of the rocker (on mine) won't even be touching the valve. When I hit zero lash, there is noticeably more resistance (because it's trying to open the valve). That's zero lash. Go two turns down from there.
Maybe you're already doing it that way, but I was cranking mine down way too far before I figured out the feel on that car, and honestly, none of this explains why it will run well with measurable (when running?) hot lash dialed in.
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12 hours ago, NTX5467 said:
(Guess I've been around too many non-Buick rear axles, at work and otherwise? If the bearings are packed in grease, is there a "repack" interval or is that when the bearings are replaced? Just curious.)
Thanks for those clarifications, Old-Tank!
NTX5467
According to my owner's manual, you're supposed to pull the axles and regrease the bearings every 25,000 miles. I'm going to guess that didn't happen too often.
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1 hour ago, JohnD1956 said:
Pretty sure that's why Jon recommends enlarging the idle tubes. But I'm more interested in the idle transition slot.
John, the idle tubes feed the transition slot as well.
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This is just my opinion, but many hobbyists get bogged down by "doing it up right." My beater Dart is the car I have the most fun with, and even though it looks the worst of my whole fleet by far, that doesn't stop people from inundating me to ask questions and drool over it any time it's parked. Why not enjoy the car until that day when you can restore it (if that's your desire)? Could you temporarily paint it a flat color or use epoxy primer just to get it on the road and enjoy it for awhile?
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Jon is almost certainly right. Opening those idle tubes up a couple thousandths with some pin drills should do it.
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Every once in a while, I'll pull out my Sun Machine, but my favorite carb tuning tool is my wideband O2 sensor. I don't use it for tuning to a specific AFR, but it does tell me what the engine's doing and if I need to make any carb modifications. For example, my Firebird's 2GC was SUPER lean on the transition circuit, as was the Holley 570 Street Avenger on my Mustang. A little work with the pin drills on the idle feed restrictors got everything running well. I am still living life without a metal lathe, but I do have a MIG welder, which helps ease the pain.
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7 hours ago, Pilgrim65 said:
Hi Guys ,
success ! followed Arrons guide, as follows , 7 - 95 space then an A,
make sense?
thanks for your help
in my defence was small and faint!
cheers
pilgrim
That's the correct number. I assume this is a '51 or '52 with a 263.
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John, that's on the wrong side; it'll be over between the choke rod and the accelerator pump rod, almost perfectly opposite of your arrow. It's pretty light, but usually legible.
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The seller included length and width measurements, which both matched the pump that came out of the 2179s. I couldn't find any numbers on the pump itself, however.
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Well, what do you know? I looked at the part number on the accelerator pump (49-164), and I found a NOS one on eBay for $13 shipped. Looks like all might not be lost after all. Of course, this is a carb I don't really need on a car that already runs reasonably well, but what's life if not for a little bit of whimsy?
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The other carb has a 1 1/16" venturi; that one is (I believe) a 725s, so they are NOT the same casting numbers. From everything I've been able to find, however, all WCDs should have the same accelerator pumps, but it sounds like it's not that simple!
I started modifying an AFB pump to fit, but the clip that holds the spring to the pump itself doesn't allow enough return travel before hitting the carb lid, so there's no way I can get enough adjustment out of it. Drat!
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The diameter is the same as an AFB pump (which I have lying around), but an AFB pump is longer. I'll take a look to see if I could modify it. Aren't old carburetors fun?
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Here are the two accelerator pumps.
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Here's a comparison between the two carbs. Picture 001 is the 1955 carb that I'm trying to use, and the scaly carb is the "school carb" that seems to have the correct accelerator pump bore. Both are about the same diameter at the top of the bore, but the school carb is the correct size as the bore continues down. I don't see any evidence of machining on the first carb; after all, there should be evidence near those three "tangs" at the bottom of the bore. I wonder if this is just a poor orphaned carb that Carter tried something on for some reason.
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I'm also going to add that your carburetor looks pretty clean. I have the same carb on my '53, and it always has seeped a little from various areas (especially, for some reason, the lid gasket, even though the float level is correct). It'll also sometimes drip a bit from the throttle shaft after a hot soak, which is a problem caused by modern gasoline. Where does yours leak from? I've been into mine several times over the last 11 years, and it's not the driest carburetor in the world.
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Pilgrim,
As you look down from the top of the carburetor, the number will be stamped (very lightly) near the driver's side edge (facing up). It will be located on the flat of the carburetor lid, right along the edge.
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A few weeks ago, I posted about some WCDs I found at the swap meet...
http://forums.aaca.org/topic/282918-straight-8-carter-with-holes/
I decided to rebuild and try the complete one on my '53 Special, which I determined by the numbers on the base and by the metering rods was a 2179s from a 1955 Special. I ordered a kit (the carb says WCD on it) from Bob's, but as I was putting it together, I noticed the accelerator pump was greater in diameter and shorter than the one that came in the kit. Sure enough, I pulled the pump from the "holey" carb, and it was smaller like the one that came with the kit.
Did Carter try some different designs in the mid-1950s? The numbers all seem to match up on this carb, so I don't THINK it's a Frankencarb, but as it stands, I'm out about 50 bucks for the carb kit and have nothing to show for it. Any ideas from obscure carb people?
For those with time on their hands, the base is 1165, the metering rods are 75-1138, and the numbers on the main casting are 950 and 6-726.
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Most people seem to suggest that regular old power steering fluid is a better crossover to Type A than Dexron in power steering systems. I ran Dexron for years, however, in my Skylark's power steering without incident. I learned a few years ago that Dexron is more viscous than old Type A (based on my asking around on several forums), which is why most use power steering fluid. I just flushed out the system and refilled it, and it's still OK.
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Well, today's haul might not be as cool as I thought...it looks like the dirtier carb has a 1 3/16 venturi bore (I assume...it's cast next to the venturis), which means that it's probably a 320 or a Nailhead carb; I'm guessing 320. I haven't found the casting number yet, but it's pretty dirty.
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That stuff looks almost too good to be true! Have you ever tried it out, Matt?
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I picked up two '50s Buick Carters today. The nicer looking one is supposed to be for a '52/'53 Special with a 263 (my car!); however, it was apparently used at a school, so they drilled holes in it to keep kids from stealing it. It's really nice, so I'm wondering if I could fix it. I may use JB Weld on the fuel bowl, but I'm wondering if the base is weldable. Is it cast iron or cast steel? If I slowly built up some weld with my MIG, I'd probably be able to fill that hole (if it's weldable), but I'd have to be careful about the heat. Any ideas? Between these two I may be able to make a nice carb.
Question #2...the dirtier one is missing a tag, but looks very similar. Is there any way to identify these without the tag?
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Eight cars, four garage spots. Two get rotated out of a rental barn and the two new cars sit outside year round. As is only fair, I scrape snow and ice off my lovely bride's car, which is more than a fair trade for her giving up her garage spot for my stuff. I have to move cars to get two out. Man, I need to move to the country.
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On 8/15/2016 at 10:30 PM, Laughing Coyote said:
I did get a price one redoing the radiator. $120 complete. Not a bad price.
That sounds like a very good price...
1961 Ford ad featuring the Galaxie Club Victoria
in AACA - Library and Research Center
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Great ad! I'll have to find that one for myself; I already have a few similar ads, one featuring a white Club Victoria with a red interior.