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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I think that you can really assume it's a little plugged...especially if it's original to the car and never been serviced. That's a lot of time for crud to build up, and your standard in-car flush doesn't get it all. If it's in good shape, a boil out shouldn't be more than 50-75 dollars, and could make a world of difference. It could also bring about some real issues, like pinholes, etc. I had to have mine recored to the tune of $475, and that was 3 years ago.

  2. Well, I have left this car sitting in the back of the garage for about 3 or 4 days now, and the only leak from that area is a rust/water drip from the road draft tube, which is undoubtedly somewhat rusty inside from being 57 years old. I'm hoping that's all the leak was and I misinterpreted it...the cooler doesn't seem to be dripping at all. I'll keep you all posted if my diagnosis changes! On an unrelated note, it's no wonder these old things are so greasy when you get your hands on them...I pulled the engine for a rebuild three years ago, and it's got an oily film over all kinds of stuff underneath...3 years and it's dirty. :)

  3. Well, the old '53 is occasionally leaving a few drops of antifreeze mixed with trans. fluid. I'm assuming it's the cooler...I've never studied the cooler at all...anyone know where one of those would leak that kind of mixture? Can it be replaced in the car? Any other thoughts? Thanks for any input...I've already replaced the front pump seal and o-ring and torque ball seal...can't be too much else left (knock on wood).

  4. Any way you can get a picture of what you're dealing with? If the crossmember is in the way, try tilting the end of the torque ball to torque tube attachment up or down to clear the crossmember. If it's sticky, you can tap it easily with a dead blow hammer (don't wail on it), or even use a broom handle or tube of some sort if it will fit. If the torque tube itself is still in the way, you can unbolt the rear springs and just pull it out of the car...If you've disconnected everything, there should only be those two bolts left.

  5. Cowards. I think stealing is one of the most despicable things in a world filled with despicable things. I am truly sorry for your loss and I am truly angry for you. It's sad but honesty is not a behavioral trait we all possess.

  6. This will haunt you as long as you own this car! I wish I were exaggerating much, but it has to do with our current gasoline and the fact that there's a huge exhaust manifold under the carburetor. Here's some options to make it better:

    1. 7/16" carb spacer from Bob's Automobilia

    2. Lowering the carb float 1/16" to 1/8"...however, this will make it run leaner and will cause the exhaust to be hotter, somewhat negating the effect.

    3. If it's not a show car, design a return system using a 3-way fuel filter plumbed into the fuel line near the carburetor. I have mine going back through a 1/4" steel fuel line to the fuel filler, where I drilled and tapped a hole for a fitting.

    4. Learn the way your car likes to start. Before I added the return, mine liked just a bit of throttle as it cranked. Now, it likes it all the way to the floor and it starts within a second or two.

    5. Make sure your heat riser in the exhaust is tied so all the exhaust goes out the tailpipe. I took the bimetal spring and unwound it so the flap is always closed. This slightly affects cold weather running, but not too bad.

    6. Make sure your vacuum advance holds vacuum and your ignition timing is correct, as these can affect engine temp. A hot engine compartment makes the problem worse.

    I have been fighting this problem since I got my car 5 years ago. I literally put the return system in 2 days ago. It's not a magic bullet but it helps. Good luck! Oh yeah, I got the return idea from Jon at the Carburetor Shop (aka Carbking)...thanks Jon!

  7. Yes it does...I found it was easier just to unbolt the rear springs and get the whole thing out of the way, but you can pull it back with the springs connected. You'll need to remove the rear brake hose, unbolt the parking brake cable, unbolt the panhard bar and the shock links. Then unbolt the torque tube from the back of the trans and pull it back...that's about it to get the torque tube out of the way.

  8. I live in a predominately Chevelle/Nova/Camaro/Mustang area, but if I take the '53 Buick to a show it's like a flying saucer...people love it, usually. People in the area tend to like the Corvair too, but the only comments the Skylark gets is an occasional "nice car," or "pretty car." I guess I live in an OK area for cars, even if Chevy Chevy Chevy is the norm...

  9. Sure will...not enough timing will definitely cause a surge. You can use a vacuum pump on the vacuum advance hose to see if the diaphragm will hold a vacuum (or you can suck on the hose, but there are usually nasty fumes in there)...to check the mechanical advance, just grab the rotor on the distributor and turn it. It should turn fairly easily against spring pressure and snap back to its original location.

  10. Wow...that was a mess. Nothing broken though. I may just be imagining it, but the car feels a lot tighter now...what a Rube Goldberg contraption though! Crazy stuff! One last thing, what does the steering gear use for lubricant? The manual says multi-purpose gear lube, but it seems to have bearing grease in there...I assume they don't mean gear oil...am I wrong? You know, I've had this car 5 years, and have had much of it torn apart at one time or another, but I'm just now getting around to this drag link deal. Weird. :)

  11. Hey all,

    I have a clunk in my '53 Special's steering. It's coming from the "center link," where the pitman arm attaches to the part where the tie rods attach. I can see and feel a little play in there. I can't seem to find that part anywhere, except maybe Kanter, who has a drag link rebuild kit. What's the deal with this thing? Easy to rebuild? Am I on the wrong track? I'd appreciate a little insight on the whole deal. Thanks!

    Aaron

  12. It's really worth it to find the AC plugs...for some reason, Champion always recommends plugs that are WAY hotter than normal, like 5+ steps too hot, in the auto parts stores' guides. This was the case with my Corvair and Special. So, at any rate, since the ACs are a known quantity and that's the factory recommendation, I'd stick with it.

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