Aaron65
-
Posts
1,319 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Gallery
Events
Posts posted by Aaron65
-
-
42 minutes ago, Barney Eaton said:
Here are pictures from the 1939 shop manual showing the operation of the "start" control at the carb. I looked at the 1938 manual and that model is much different....so how many designs did they have?
The style of switch depended on the carburetor. For example, my '53 could have come with either a Carter or a Stromberg, and they both used different switches.
-
2
-
-
Buicks didn't have a floor switch; they used a microswitch on the carburetor and the commensurate wiring. If you have the right carb, you should notice the switch on the side.
-
4
-
-
The grille on the Lincoln is from a '42. If the whole car's a '42, it's a rare one!
-
58 minutes ago, 2carb40 said:
Fuel/air gauges are available aftermarket. Hole drilled in headpipe just below cast iron heat riser/flapper valve they readout in numbers corresponding to fuel air ratios, digital 14 is 14/1 ratio. I believe they measure oxegen left in exhaust like the new injected vehicles, but the signal goes to computer to adust for best mpg/power. Originally called, lambda sensors if memory serves. If it's lean=hotter running.
I have an Innovate O2 setup with a long cord to run to the tailpipe of my various vehicles. Of course, I have to run 12 volt power in the Buick, so I just put another car's battery on the passenger floor. Out on the highway, the Buick runs in the low to mid 15s AFR, and it richens up to 12.5:1 under load. It's a little lean at cruise, but not dangerously. Needless to say, I'll be working on this when I get the car back together.
-
Wow, thanks Joseph! Mine runs way hotter than that for some reason, which certainly doesn't help matters. I'll have to throw together another carburetor and try it out. Thanks again for checking that out for me.
-
If the carburetor is overflowing, then you have a problem with the needle in seat in the carburetor OR an improper float level setting. You can lightly tap the top of the carb when it starts doing this with a small rubber or plastic hammer, or the plastic handle of a screwdriver to see if the needle and seat will unstick. Do NOT hit the carburetor hard. Tap on the float bowl. Most likely, however, the carb will need to come apart again. At this point, I would also be doing a fuel pressure check to see how much pressure my fuel pump was producing.
-
The first two things I'd check: 1. Points...make sure they're still gapped correctly and they're clean. My '53 all of a sudden didn't start one day after running fine the previous day because the points were slightly corroded. Sitting over the winter can cause them to form a thin film of corrosion that a piece of emery paper will clean. 2. Idle passages...pull out the idle mixture screws (noting how many turns out they are first) and spray some carb cleaner in there. If you have access to an air compressor, blow out the passages.
Report back after that!
Of course, the fact that it sometimes runs well cold and not hot could be any number of things, but I always start with the easiest stuff and work my way up.
-
Well, there's your problem! I ordered a new one, but Bob's said they're out! New ones should be in by the 5th or the 8th (they hope). I'm going to take this opportunity to flush out the block (it's not too bad, because it was hot tanked 10 years ago). I think I'll be able to make my current intake manifold work; it looks like I had about 1/8" milled off it. There's about 1/8" play in the exhaust/intake interface, and I use gaskets on the intakes rather than depending solely on the sealing rings (although they seem like a pretty swell idea!).
We'll see how it goes in a couple of weeks...
-
8 hours ago, 2carb40 said:
Im sorry if I inferred you specifically, as I was meaning generally. I try not to assume, ass I know what that can do. I thought I might offer some perspective, as it comes up rather often. I also stated that materials are looking more and more like an often culprit. No offense intended. Apoligies if interpreted as such!
No need to apologize...I just wanted to make it clear that gaskets weren't the culprit in this situation. In this case, I think it was just a brittle old part, like you said above.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:
Aaron:
I will use my laser pointer temp gauge to get you some data on manifold temps when it stops raining here.
Do you get exhaust leak sounds from exhaust manifold without use of gaskets?
joe
Until yesterday, there were no audible leaks, and I've had the manifolds on there for probably five years or so now. I cut the intake gaskets from a set of Fel-Pros and used RTV to seal them to the head, and then I installed the combined manifold as per the service manual's instructions. I also used orange RTV on the heat riser gaskets, because I did have a slight issue with a leak there once.
Thanks in advance for checking your exhaust temps!
-
58 minutes ago, 2carb40 said:
Im always amazed when I read about gasket usage after all the Buick tech print material stating a diffferent process(absolute flat cast surfaces with no gaskets and grafite/grease, belvue washers, light torque to allow a mile long chunk of cast iron to expand with heat and contract on cooling without being "stuck" to the head when gaskets stick to the cast surface like epoxy after time and being tightened with a cheater bar
Just sayin. My 2000 cents.
I don't use gaskets; I install them like the factory recommends.
-
That's how I did it last time, Joseph.
Do you have an infrared thermometer, Joseph? At idle in the driveway, my siamesed manifold runners near the exhaust port seem to run about 600* or even a little more, which seems pretty hot compared to all my other cars, and I want to minimize any chance of my new or new used one cracking. If you could check out yours after a run sometime, I'd appreciate it!
-
15 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:
Aaron, I think I have one if needed.
Ben
Ben, I sent you a message.
-
Another 263 manifold has exhausted its last hydrocarbon...my '53 cracked its manifold all the way around its circumference, right behind cylinder #5. I'm about to bite the bullet and order a new one from Bob's (gulp!), but I'd figure I'd do a last minute check and see if anybody has any good, somewhat cheaper advice. I think I know the answer, but $710 is a lot of money for any single part. Oh well, 64 years is a good run, although the one that cracked was in the trunk of the car when I bought it because the one on the car had a slight crack in it!
One other thing I just thought about. I had the intake milled quite a bit to even it and the current exhaust manifold out. I hope it will match up with a new exhaust manifold!
-
Could you expand on what you mean when you say the lifters would collapse? Adjusting valves on a straight-8 can be a little touchy, and it's easy to get one too tight when you think it's just right. I'm not saying the mechanics are wrong here, because with cars, anything's possible; but if had more compression before you changed the head, it doesn't make a ton of sense that the pistons or rings are your problem.
-
If you do replace the lifters, it's never a bad idea to break them in like you would a new cam...30 minutes at 2000-2500 RPM, varying speed. Use a break-in oil for your first fill. Use a thin smear of moly lube on the base, and make sure to get that engine started immediately (don't crank and crank).
-
I'll add to the chorus...LEAVE IT ALONE!
-
2
-
-
This is a drag. Motor Muster is my favorite car event of the year and I'll sure miss it if the wind's blowing the way it seems to be.
-
Check all your pushrod ends. Mine made a noise and the only obvious culprit after teardown was a pushrod cup that had broken. It sounded for all the world like a bad rod bearing or wrist pin.
-
8 hours ago, Wooly15 said:
Worked like a charm. Had to man handle one side to get the bolts aligned, but it's all back together now.
On to the passenger side. has anyone accomplished the upper arm wouthout having to lift the motor?
The upper arm should be a breeze, since the spring is pushing on the lower arm and frame. Support the lower arm on a jack (and stand) and remove the upper threaded "pin." I'm assuming a '56 is similar to a '53 here (although a '53's upper arm is the lever shock), so maybe someone with '56 experience could back me up. On my '53, there were pockets in the frame so you could remove the nuts holding the upper arm (shock) in. I don't remember there being any reason to lift the engine.
-
I did my passenger kingpin a couple of years ago, and I just gave the spindle to my machine shop to hammer out the old kingpin and install the new one. I figured they'd have the correct reamers to fit the bushings, and from what I remember, the labor bill was about the price of a set of reamers (or less), if I could even find them! Money well spent, in my opinion, and I'm normally a guy who likes to do as much as he can by himself. That would be my suggestion, but I'm sure others will offer theirs. Good luck!
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, Mark Gregory said:
What I can not understand is the complaints about how the cars in the 1950's handled . I have never owned a 1950's car but grew up riding in them as a child . I owned a 1926 Reo Sedan and currently rebuilding a 1931 Reo Royale Victoria . Those are a struggle to drive a car . I never would of thought a 1950's car could be so hard to drive ? ?
How did Lucy and Ricky ever drive that Mercury Monterey in The Long Long Trailer ?
I love driving my stock '53 Special. The bias ply tires aren't good on today's grooved highways, but you get used to it, and I could fix that by putting radials on it. Of course it doesn't handle well around corners, but it's not a white knuckler or anything. I cruise down the road at 60 and it's fine. On the other hand, my newest car is a '74 Firebird, and it is leaps and bounds ahead of all my other cars in roadability, so I can agree that cars came a long way in 20 years. I'll turn 40 this year, and I've been driving my '65 Mustang for 23 years with no power steering or brakes, so I guess I just never had time for new cars to spoil me all that much. In fact, I love when the weather warms up and I step out of the daily driver and drive the old junkers more often.
-
3
-
-
I'll second the comment above on radials being more sensitive to toe-in. If I set toe-in to any more than 1/16" on any of my cars with radials, the outer edges start to wear funny. I think my '53 Special, however, is set at over 1/8" with bias-plies, and it couldn't care less.
-
Motor Muster is my favorite car show of the year, but I can understand why they'd try to limit the car count. Greenfield Village is a big place, but even it has its limitations. And no offense to Mustang owners (I own a '65 coupe myself), but it seems like 25% of the cars on display are Mustangs (just like the OCF is about 25% Model A's). Paring the show down so there's less overlap among models doesn't seem like a terrible idea, although it might be less painful to entrants to just do it via the selection process, although some long time entrants would probably be left out as a result, leading to some hard feelings.
-
1
-
263 manifold cracked (shock!)
in Buick - Post War
Posted · Edited by Aaron65 (see edit history)
Here's where I am on this project:
I got my new exhaust manifold (credit card still smoking)...unfortunately, my current intake manifold has been milled so much that the bosses where the retaining washers ride are not level between the intake and exhaust. My spare intake manifold has a runner that sat with water in it and must have frozen, so it has a big crack in the runner for cylinders 3 and 4. That's less of a problem that the cavernous rust that was inside that runner. To get it clean, I had to remove quite a bit of material, so now that runner is about 1/8" wider than the rest.
So my choices are really two: 1. get the crack welded on the damaged manifold (or JB weld it...it's only through in one place) and hope my mixture distribution isn't too messed up by the larger runner or 2. find an unmilled used intake manifold. Anyone have a 4 bolt unmilled manifold lying around?
Ben, I know you said you might have one, so if you could check it out, I'd appreciate it.
If anybody has a third option that doesn't involve milling the new exhaust manifold down to the old intake, I'm all ears (which is a metaphor, of course).