Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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Jon, when you say to increase main fuel flow 10%, do you mean stepping up jet sizes that much? Like, a size 50 to a 55?
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That's such a great place to visit, and it gets better every year! I'm about 3 hours away, so I only make it down every year or so...I'm thinking of going to the Pierce-Arrow club gathering there this year...
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Great video! Made me go ride my '72 Raleigh Sports!
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They're both on my "Great 28" list, but I like the Riv more. It's one of my favorites.
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After a 30+ mile highway drive you'll be lucky to have over 10 psi in these things. The low end of normal on the gauge is just about 10 psi. Therefore, you're fine. The manual says that as long as you have 35 psi at 35 MPH, you're good.
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When your the design manager "it's your car"
According to SIA #35, Stan Wilen was the Olds studio chief when the Toro was drawn up...therefore, by this logic, it's his car.
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David North did the Toronado; Jordan did the '67 Eldorado.
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I love my old cars more than almost anything...about 10 years ago I thought of doing the same thing you're thinking of, but I couldn't bring myself to do it. I don't think I could handle knowing that I was the reason another old car was rusting into the ground. Road salt kills, man. On the other hand, if I lived in year round sun, no problem...
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When I visited England I saw a ton of them....I had no idea they were as old as a '91...I thought they were a new thing meant to look like an old thing...cool!
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Do you have an AutoZone near you? They'll do a code scan for free. Write down the codes and work from there...
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Running at the high end of normal is a little hot for that car that quickly...do you have the original radiator in it? If so, you'll probably want to get it boiled out, and possibly even recored. I had to do that with mine because it ran warm. It IS normal, however, to run hotter when shut off because antifreeze is not being circulated by the water pump with the engine off...mine normally runs just above normal on hot shut down, but occasionally gets toward the hot mark on the gauge if it's been running for a long time in hot weather.
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Well, I ran the combustion tester over the radiator and it showed no signs of leakage. I reran the pressure test and it dropped a half pound quickly and stayed there for at least 5 minutes. I think the half pound was in the instrument itself. I don't know what happened, but at this point I'm just going to keep an eye on it. Maybe the GM sealing tablets sealed the leak. I am going to switch back to a 180 thermostat (it's at 160 now) and put a new radiator cap on it. I'll keep everyone updated should things change.
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My brother in law had a '96 Regal that did the same thing. I never figured it out, but the shop did after 3 hours of fiddling. It had an internally corroded wire under the hood that (I believe) led to the underhood fuse box. It seems like it was for the ignition, but you may want to start in that area.
I win!!! Congrats on fixing it!
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Just bought a 64 Corvair Monza 4-door. Picking it up Monday morning out in Reading!
Everything I've researched thus far always has the Monza name attached to it. I've seen things saying that he was a designer and also another site said that their was a Monza package available that added a few features. Was there just a 'Corvair' or was it always a Corvair Monza?
There were also models called the "500," "700," and "Corsa," along with a few others. Monzas were usually the most popular. Sign up over at corvaircenter.com to speed up your learning curve about these things. Good luck with it!
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It had probably been a year since I checked it. I'm fairly sure I know exactly when it started...I noticed a dripping from the draft tube in fall 2010, and when I changed the oil last year, the breather was all messy, which seemed abnormal to me. There's really not all that much to getting the head off this thing...the real pain is lifting it! I may just use my uncle's engine hoist to pluck it out of there. I'm still tossing things around in my head right now...
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I am usually the last to recommend "miracle-in-can" to fix a problem, but removing a cylinder head especially on a straight-8 overhead valve engine has to be be a big pain. It was 45 years ago (when I was a broke college student) that I discovered the oil level in my 55 Special was overfull. After starting the oil looked like a milkshake. I spent 1/2 day to go through the procedure outlined on a can of KW BlockSealer then went for a long drive to evaporate the water out of the oil (could not afford an oil change). It worked(!) for 250,000 miles until I retired the car. I have not had a reason to use it since, but in that on case it worked well.
Willie
You know, I thought about doing that, but I don't know if I can bring myself to do it. There are so few real signs of trouble though, that tearing it apart is bothering me. It's only the valve cover/draft tube snot and, obviously, the lost antifreeze. It really doesn't seem to be leaking into a cylinder, but it might be slight. Who knows? Thanks all for the insight, as always!
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Well, not much turned up. The head was torqued normally, all fittings are tight. The inside of the valve cover was filled with snot, and it never has been before. I'm pretty convinced I have a head gasket issue (hopefully not worse). I don't believe it's into any cylinders, however, because none of the plugs looks washed out. Sigh. I think I'll be taking the head off to check things out, especially since the coolant level is going down on a daily basis now. I heated up a piece of metal with a torch and dropped oil on it and it sizzled...still doesn't smell like antifreeze, but it's got water in it for sure.
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Hi Joe...just yesterday, I opened the vent and felt around inside the defroster core area, I am going to crawl underneath and check out the hose clamps at the transmission cooler and check it out when I get a chance too. No exhaust smoke, just a little breather steam, which doesn't seem out of line...Thanks!
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It gets warmed up quite often...I drive it quite a bit. I'm going to keep an eye on the anti-freeze level, pull out the plugs and check them out, and I may even double check the head bolt torque...it has a coated steel head gasket and I never retorqued it after the engine was rebuilt. I did add the GM sealing tabs the other day, so we'll see if that helps. Thanks for the tips...
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OK...I've got a rebuilt 263 that was redone 5 years ago, and has 6,000 miles since. I checked the antifreeze yesterday for the first time in awhile, and noticed it was low...I had to add a couple of quarts. Just for the heck of it, I rented a cooling system pressure tester from AutoZone, pumped it up to 7 pounds, and it held pressure fine. I took it for a ride and got it nice and warm, waited 15 minutes, took off the pressure cap, and tried again. This time, it lost maybe a half pound of pressure in 2-3 minutes.
It runs great, no smoke from the pipe, no missing. It runs cool, never comes close to overheating. The only clue that something may be wrong is that it leaves a little drop of water from the road draft tube and snots up the oil filler with condensation. Neither smells like antifreeze.
I've got bad vibes of cracked heads/blocks, etc. Any ideas? I'm not feeling good about this...
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OK...I've got a rebuilt 263 that was redone 5 years ago, and has 6,000 miles since. I checked the antifreeze yesterday for the first time in awhile, and noticed it was low...I had to add a couple of quarts. Just for the heck of it, I rented a cooling system pressure tester from AutoZone, pumped it up to 7 pounds, and it held pressure fine. I took it for a ride and got it nice and warm, waited 15 minutes, took off the pressure cap, and tried again. This time, it lost maybe a half pound of pressure in 2-3 minutes.
It runs great, no smoke from the pipe, no missing. It runs cool, never comes close to overheating. The only clue that something may be wrong is that it leaves a little drop of water from the road draft tube and snots up the oil filler with condensation. Neither smells like antifreeze.
I've got bad vibes of cracked heads/blocks, etc. Any ideas? I'm not feeling good about this...
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I want one! I'll PM you for payment details!
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While First Gen Rivs are just about my favorite cars, I can't find anything wrong with having a '61-'66 Imperial. I saw a "barn find" '65 at an auction two years ago and had to talk myself out of it (no room at the inn, and it's not on my 'list').
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You may be perfectly correct Rick...I use a '52 shop manual, so it might be that they eliminated that seal in '53 and I added one for no good reason. Willie's right, you can dump the boot.
We're fortunate to have the AACA forums!
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Do you have a Focus? I do and I get that vibe from that website.