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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. Thanks for the great ideas! I have a short spacer I can try in place of the stack, but I always just snug down carbs by using my hand on the top of a ratchet. That doesn't mean they won't crack! The thing that's turned a light on in my head is using the punch to seat the pump check ball (or in my case a needle). That was one of the things I was wondering...was the circuit sucking air in from that area. More to come, eventually. Thanks again!

  2. Thanks for replying Jon!

    1. I'm using a brass-looking pump discharge needle that's of reasonable size, but I'm not sure what the original size one looks like. The current couple I've tried either came with the carburetor or in the Car Quest rebuild kit I used last. No discharge ball, just the needle.

    2. The lack of discharge occurs even with a cold engine. I'm using a replacement pump that likely doesn't have the check ball. I'm using a sandwiched aluminum/gasket/aluminum/gasket flange gasket setup by Mr. Gasket that insulates the carb somewhat from any heat from the engine. The car doesn't have a heat riser anymore, but the passages aren't blocked off either, so the gasket does get sooty. The car never has a vacuum leak, however.

    3. The pump I'm using is leather (I've tried two).

  3. I copied this from over at V8buick.com and the Buick forum here to see if there are any AFB guys who can give me a hand here...I had this thing apart four times yesterday...it's relating to my '65 Skylark...

    All right, this is getting dumb. Basically, when the engine's running, I have no pump shot. If I put it on the bench, it's fine. Here's what I've done...

    1. Replaced the inlet check valve. It didn't seem to work well without it.

    2. Raised the driver's side float about 1/32", even though it was at spec, just to make sure the well filled. It should fill through the check valve though.

    3. I found a couple of float seats that had larger orifices in them, in case the car was dropping the float level too much running (grasping for straws here).

    4. I adjusted the pump so it started down in the well as far as I could.

    5. The fuel pump has 6-7 lbs. of pressure to the carb.

    6. The gas is way down in the pump well. I checked the pump discharge needle and it seemed OK, but I'm wondering if it's maybe sucking air. EDIT: I replaced the needle and there's no change.

    The pump just won't shoot with the engine running (or at least it's very weak and sporadic). I'm just about out of ideas here. Maybe the carb has some kind of internal vacuum leak where it's sucking air in the pump system...Any ideas?

    OR...anybody have a good 3826S core they could sell me? This thing's never run quite right with the current carb. It came with an Edelbrock, but the switch pitch doesn't match up to that thing very well.

  4. I copied this from over at V8buick.com to see if there are any AFB guys who can give me a hand here...I had this thing apart four times yesterday.

    All right, this is getting dumb. Basically, when the engine's running, I have no pump shot. If I put it on the bench, it's fine. Here's what I've done...

    1. Replaced the inlet check valve. It didn't seem to work well without it.

    2. Raised the driver's side float about 1/32", even though it was at spec, just to make sure the well filled. It should fill through the check valve though.

    3. I found a couple of float seats that had larger orifices in them, in case the car was dropping the float level too much running (grasping for straws here).

    4. I adjusted the pump so it started down in the well as far as I could.

    5. The fuel pump has 6-7 lbs. of pressure to the carb.

    6. The gas is way down in the pump well. I checked the pump discharge needle and it seemed OK, but I'm wondering if it's maybe sucking air. EDIT: I replaced the needle and there's no change.

    The pump just won't shoot with the engine running (or at least it's very weak and sporadic). I'm just about out of ideas here. Maybe the carb has some kind of internal vacuum leak where it's sucking air in the pump system...Any ideas?

    OR...anybody have a good 3826S core they could sell me? This thing's never run quite right with the current carb. It came with an Edelbrock, but the switch pitch doesn't match up to that thing very well.

  5. I cleaned mine with a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning kit. The rocker shaft is not under high pressure. There is a restricted feed fitting in the head that drops pressure in the rocker shaft down to a trickle (This might have been mentioned before). Definitely clean the shaft and all rocker arm orifices. Most likely they're gummed up and that causes rocker shaft wear.

  6. If you have the head and oil pan off, why not try soaking the cylinders for a day or two in transmission fluid or Marvel Mystery Oil? If you can't turn it by hand, it's stuck. By soaking, maybe you can get the thing working without damaging anything.

  7. Car Craft magazine this month has a two-page spread on the 702, and (Thunder? I think...)'s efforts to bring rebuilds to market. $18,000 an engine, and weighing 1400 pounds (!), it seems pretty cool. The article said there are fewer than 200 known to exist right now. The whole deal makes me want an old GMC V-6 for a work truck, just for the weird factor.

  8. Just come out to the left coast and see for yourself. We hear what the grand kids are saying to us and we hear it from their parents too. We hear it in the media all the time and the sentiment has become woven into the fabric of everyday life. It has become the norm. It's not just old cars, but industry too. I was on the community advisory board for a major oil refiner in my city. The public perception( young and older) of that company was amazing even though through taxes and generous contributions to the city, schools in particular. Some of us advisers suggested that the refinery had better get into the schools just like the environmental groups do to show their side of the story. Yes environmental groups volunteer their time. Just remember what shows up here usually shows up eventually in the rest of the country. Next year we get California Cap and Trade, our utilities are going to triple and what do you think gas prices will do, groceries? Not to mention that many companies have left the state ( the one I retired from too) which will leave the rest of the property owners holding the bag. There is talk if the state can't meet it's carbon offset that it will bring back into the state emission test program cars that have been exempt ( 1966-1975 ) and BTW by law those cars MUST have ALL the emission equipment they came with new-testing or no. The collector market here in this state is about zero for cars built after 1975 because 1976 and newer will never get a exemption by law..think about what would happen if 1966-1975 cars were pulled back in. So membership dies if you do this, and even if we don't pull those cars back into testing the 1976 and newer cars will never become collectible and those cars because of their entry level low prices are where new members come from.

    D.

    It may be our geography here. I know in Michigan, at least where I'm from, there's an old car on just about every block. The city where I teach hosts a HUGE car show, and the car is a lifestyle. But that's going to change, for the reasons many have eloquently mentioned above.

  9. Interesting, that is why we have a glut of college educated unemployed with parents that have a bill they rarely outlive. Bob

    I totally agree about this...we need skilled trades right now, and it's not happening. It doesn't take a genius to figure out that these tradesmen and women have to come from somewhere, and if we don't foster that interest at a young age, we're sunk. Therefore, we're sinking. I can say that this is not coming from the classroom teacher, but from state curriculum guides that make ALL kids take certain classes that won't do them much good unless they're college-bound.

  10. 1) Interest for a younger generation, and how can you spark interest when kids are taught in school that cars are bad necessities in life that we would be better off without cars.

    What are you talking about? I am a high school teacher, and while I agree that younger kids today largely could care less about old cars, I have never once heard of any teacher in my schools bad mouthing them. Unfortunately, state curriculums have left no room for students to learn a trade, which is 100% sad and stupid, but to say that my coworkers and I are actively promoting the death of the old car hobby is flat wrong. I promote it every chance I get.

  11. First, try tightening the pump cover. When you remove the inspection cover on the bottom of the bellhousing, you'll see a bunch of bolts. Only three are to hold the flexplate to the converter (pump). The rest are to hold the converter cover on. Behind that is a big o-ring. If these bolts are loose, it will leak like holy heck. So, torque these to 25 ft. lbs. and check it out again. Of course, it seems you'll never stop a Dynaflow from completely leaking. If these are tight, you'll have to remove the trans or live with it, because there is also a front pump seal that is a standard lip seal in there.

  12. So, I think I will remove the heads from my 264 and send to Pro-tech in Fresno, Cal to recondition. .

    Is the car running on all 8? If so, why take off the heads and send them out? Literally, you need to drive this car some more before you can realistically analyze what's wrong with it. Otherwise, IMO, you'll be throwing money down the drain. Get the brakes and suspension safe, and put some miles on it, and then decide what it needs, if it needs anything.

  13. When you took the compression test, did you pull all the plugs before you tested it? If you pull one at a time and/or don't block open the throttle, your readings will likely be low. As stated above, drive it for awhile! Why spend money you don't need to spend? Old cars take enough as is.

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