Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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I have one that occasionally ticks, especially when it's cold and/or has been sitting awhile, and mine's been rebuilt (and I cleaned out the rocker shaft). The oiling system for the lifters on straight 8's is a little backward; it feeds the lifters from the rocker shaft down to the lifters, and it's kind of a trickle. There are a few things you can do. Check the rocker shaft and rocker arm passages to make sure they're clean (and you should if you're not sure). Apparently, there's a small screen in the fitting where the oil filter line enters the head, and it can get plugged (mine never seemed to have that). Finally, I use a half quart of Rislone in mine when I change the oil and it keeps it quieter. Use at your own risk, lest it releases a clump of grease and blocks an oil passage.
It seems like every time I replace a set of lifters, I get one that's weak and is occasionally noisy on startup or at random other times. My Corvair has one, my Mustang has one, my Special has one. I chalk it up to modern manufacturing or my being an idiot somehow.
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2 hours ago, autoluke said:
EUTREKA !!!
Dropped the pan, only to have the oil pump assembly come with it.
Seems that the shop forgot to bolt up the pump when they put everything together, so that I have been trying to turn an engine with zero pump pressure.
The experts are expected here today..should be an interesting meeting.
I'm guessing that's not going to be the only problem you find.
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I wouldn't run the engine until you figure out why it's that tight. Even with only assembly lube, it should turn without standing on a breaker bar. If you can't turn the engine without a little muscle on a 1/2" socket wrench, something's too tight.
Are the plugs out? It will obviously turn harder if they are in.
If it were me, I'd try to figure out why it was so tight to begin with. Did you check bearing clearances on the rods and mains? Piston ring end gaps?
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If you do the math, with 3.6 gears and those tall tires these cars came with, 70 mph equates to about 2800-3000 rpm. So you CAN do the legal limit on the freeway. But you'll find you probably don't want to. There is an unreal difference between a '52 model and, say, a '55 model. I always say that my '53 Special is the newest '30s car you'll ever drive.
With that being said, if I'm taking a short freeway trip, I might put it on 70 to get there quicker. But it doesn't like it. Most of the time I drive 60 on the freeway because it doesn't feel like it's straining there, and at higher speed the temp starts to creep up on mine, always has, even after a rebuild with hot tanked block and a new radiator core.
So slow down and enjoy the trip.
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Congratulations! One of these days, I'm going to get sick of the dripping and have to do the same thing. I also head straight to the Interstate dealer when I need a battery; they fill it up after I buy it, so it's brand new. Unfortunately, I've found that batteries only last about 5 years in the '53. Oh well, it's pretty.
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1 hour ago, joe28704 said:
Aaron, I am missing your point about "the coating on the seal tends to peel itself off" I don't have the BEST#3764 in my hand but pictures seems like it's hard rubber(buna) with a steel core.
The rubber can actually peel from the metal core as it contacts the edges of the channel.
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I've never done it on a straight eight, but I have installed neoprene two piece seals in-car with the crank in the engine. It is a thankless job and you should have a spare seal on hand before you try it. As you install the upper half and "walk" it around the crank (often by turning the crank itself), the coating on the seal tends to peel itself loose if you don't get it just right. Lube the seal well before you start. Make sure to stagger the seal ends (leave 1/4 inch of so exposed) so the seal halves aren't lined up at the main cap parting line. Then it's a matter of crossing your fingers. If it starts to peel, discard both halves and use a whole new one, because the halves won't exactly align otherwise.
Luckily, on a straight eight car, getting the pan off in the car isn't that bad. It's a lot better if you have a lift (but I don't, sadly).
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18 hours ago, 61-63 said:
Vaseline Petroleum Jelly breaks down 100%. I've used it on c4s, t10s, muncies, etc. many times.
I've used this before, too, and it worked perfectly.
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I'd say it's worth a shot when the alternative is to junk the carb. JB weld it and file it with a flat file.
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This car is coming out great, and it's nice to see you lavishing time (and money) on something some people overlook. It's going to be a beautiful car when it's done.
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OK, first, I looked in my 1965 Motor Manual for your adjustments, but realize that modern gas has rendered these baselines just that, baselines.
Mixture screws--1 1/2 turns out
Primary float level (from heel of float)--1 15/32 in.
Secondary float level--1 3/8 in.
Primary float drop--1 1/2 in.
Secondary float drop--1 5/16 in.
The choke adjustment is the index mark.
If you're planning to work on your own car, a manual is a must, so it's good advice to pick one up. With that being said, have you had the carb apart? Have you blown out all the air bleeds and idle passages? Up to 60 mph, most cars are running on the transition circuit, which is the little vertical line at the front of the throttle bore. It bisects the throttle plate at low speeds. If there's any crud in there, you could have problems. Have you checked fuel pressure?
I'd check the usual tune-up stuff too. Is the advance mechanism in the distributor moving freely? Are your points/condenser in good shape? Plug wires? Does the engine run roughly when you hold it at the offending RPM in neutral? Is it missing?
There are a lot of variables to this stuff, variables that aren't always obvious if you're not used to diagnosing old cars (and sometimes they're not even obvious to those who are!). I think we're going to need more info. here if we're going to be of much service.
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Well said by Matt, as usual.
I grew up in a Ford family, and my dad is a true blue blue oval guy. Now look at my cars in my signature. My family heirloom Mustang is my only old Ford (although I like a lot of old Fords). Dad still rides in any of them with me with a smile on his face, even though he may not 100% understand why his son is the way he is.
Drive what you like!
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The engine will swap, but the transmission will almost certainly require some driveshaft/crossmember/linkage modifications. I would think the rearend would be OK on street tires if you weren't always beating on it, but it's something to consider.
I've never done this swap, so you might want to head over to V8Buick.com and do some reading. It's been done many times before.
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Did you compare your old and new parts to make sure they are the same? You never know what's in the box these days.
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I think I ended up using a ratcheting 5/8" box wrench on the top two bolts when I removed and reinstalled my engine. It may not be accurate as far as torque settings, but it sure saved a lot of time!
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Congratulations on your new to you car!
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You may want to consider trying this forum. It's a good one for all muscle-oriented Pontiacs.
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3 minutes ago, Restorer32 said:
I used to drive a Corvair!
I still do!
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If you still want an adventure, fly down and rent a U-Haul truck and trailer! When I bought my Firebird in December, it only had to come 100 miles home, but it had ancient tires and no brakes. Waiting for a shipper to pick up the car was taking longer than I would have liked, so I rented a U-Haul and picked it up. The downside was that it cost about as much to do that as it did to have a shipper pick it up, but my dad and I had a fun day and I knew when and where it was going to arrive.
It's worth a look at least.
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Here are my '53 and my '65.
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I just picked up a '74 Firebird in February, so I'll throw that in. I've always liked '70s Firebirds.
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http://centralmich.craigslist.org/cto/5396214817.html
Wow. Is this a real Continental? It sure looks like one. I'd buy it to save it but I don't have the kind of money it would take to bring it back even remotely to stock.
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http://centralmich.craigslist.org/cto/5396214817.html
Wow. Is this a real Continental? It sure looks like one. I'd buy it to save it but I don't have the kind of money it would take to bring it back even remotely to stock.
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That's a smooth running turbo right there!
Avanti R2, 1963, refresh
in Our Cars & Restoration Projects
Posted
Lucky indeed! What an opportunity! Nicola Bulgari sounds like a pretty cool, down to earth guy; he should consider putting on a show like Jay Leno's Garage.