Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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Before I fired it up again, I might push down on the offending pushrod to check the resistance of that lifter. Can you push it down easily? If it's already pumped up, then you've got other problems. Hopefully it's just taking awhile to pump up. You may want to try readjusting just that one lifter.
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I can tell you one thing...10 minutes is probably not long enough. You need to run that thing for 30 minutes to break in those lifters anyway. Mine took what seemed to be forever to pump up when I replaced them. If you have the adjuster turned too far down, oil will shoot out the rocker arm and never make it down the pushrod. While it's running, make sure that oil is not spurting out of the rocker arm that's not moving.
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I've never owned one, but one of my favorite cars is a silver on silver '63. There's nothing about that car I don't like, other than the fact that they started going up in price just as I could start reasonably looking for one.
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I'm guessing the oil pump driveshaft is not quite lined up. You might want to look down into the distributor hole and make sure that the two are jiving...
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No specific year, just find one for a 12-bolt Chevy.
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Yes it will work. I used one in mine.
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I'd replace the MC and eliminate it as a variable.
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That's the coil man...It's an HEI ignition.
http://www.partsgeek.com/assets/perf/full/4776-03141741-1236364.pdf
Looks like it just might be a little stuck. Your coil could also be bad. Might be worth just waiting until Tuesday morning.
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At this point, there are quite a few things that could cause poor performance and backfiring in that car. Is this your daily driver? If so, if it's in the cards $$$, I'd take it to a shop that can deal with it. I'm sensing that you're about ready to start throwing parts at it, and that is going to be a waste of money. Like John said before, there are about a billion vacuum lines on that thing, any of which can be leaking and leaning the car out. There's an air pump check valve (most likely), but that would probably cause backfiring upon decel. I'm not sure if that car has an OBD-1 system in it, but if it does, I've tested those systems with a paper clip in five minutes. At this point, if it's NOT your daily driver, I'd do a little research, and determine a course of action. My checklist would include #1. vacuum hoses--listen for any whistling underhood. Now would be a time to pick up a vacuum gauge and do a test. #2. timing--AutoZone may rent timing lights. Learn how to use it...now's a good time. #3. Computer system? If it has one, how do I check it? That would tell you (most likely) if you have an EGR issue. #4. This car likely has the emissions QuadraJet, which has probably never been rebuilt. Who knows what kinds of problems this could cause.
If time is not a factor, you can do this and learn some stuff as well. If time is a factor, I feel you're better off enlisting help here.
P.S. Do yourself a favor and buy a Haynes manual for this car. I buy an original shop manual or a Haynes manual for every car I buy.
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Maybe I'm off base here, but I can get a master cylinder rebuild kit for my '53 at the local Auto Value for five bucks. Is the '38 master that different?
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Have you checked the timing???
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I did lube the speedometer cable when I bought the car six years ago...I'll try it again...I do have some speedometer cable graphite lube. Thanks for the tip on Bob's!
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It does have a thermostat, Jim...a 160.
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Thanks! It's interesting to hear about the quirks that specific makes and models, and even engines, had. I was just curious because my 60s cars don't have the same issue...however, I do run a 160 stat in the '53, since it's mostly a warm weather car. That may add to the issue.
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My '53's speedometer bounces around when it's cold...It doesn't make noise, but I have a feeling it may need some service. Anyone know of a good speedometer repairer? Obviously, I don't need to break the bank either, so I guess I'd like someone who does a good job at a fair price...Thanks!
Aaron
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Does anyone else have a snotty oil breather? I've noticed that my '53 (with no PCV, obviously) has been doing this, especially in the cooler weather. I assume it's because of condensation, since it also drips water from the draft tube after a longer trip as it cools down. It's not really a short trip car, and the oil on the dipstick is fine, and the lower block breather is clean. Just wondering if I'm the only one here with this issue. Nothing smells like anti-freeze or anything. The mesh in the cap collects what looks like snot. It's kind of gross.
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This may have been mentioned already, but is this the only master cylinder you've tried (even if you've rebuilt it)? If that's the case, I'd be sourcing another core and rebuilding it. Something has to be funky about that one.
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The only differences (that I know of) is in the rocker shaft assemblies--you could get either solid or hydraulic...make sure to get the right one!
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That is a BEAUTIFUL car. I'm jealous. You're a strong man, Matt, picking up those beauties and selling them! On the other hand, you get to experience all kinds of great cars too...
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Kind of an interesting one for someone who wants an original '80s car...
It's in Michigan...
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This is interesting. I've seen decent coupes in the 4 figures, so buy the body and one of those coupes, you've got all the parts except back seat and top. I'm thinking even the glass is the same for a coupe and convertible. A paint job, and you're off (oh, gee, there's that pesky little task of putting it all together!)
The side glass isn't the same between a coupe and convert. Some interior panels are different too.
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The owners manual calls for AC 44 heat range plugs for 2 and 4 barrels...but they aren't readily available anymore, which is why I'm running 43s.
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AC R43S is what I'm running in mine right now, but Autolite 85 plugs are OK too...
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Thanks for all the replies...I'll take a look at them this winter, after I rebuild my Mustang's automatic transmission that has a lazy 2-3 shift (sorry Bernie--but they DO have inexpensive parts!).
1996 Buick Century Fuel problem
in Buick - General
Posted
My brother in law had a '96 Regal that did the same thing. I never figured it out, but the shop did after 3 hours of fiddling. It had an internally corroded wire under the hood that (I believe) led to the underhood fuse box. It seems like it was for the ignition, but you may want to start in that area.