Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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One more thing...as you probably know, straight 8 Buicks have no valve stem seals. If the new pushrods were a problem, mine would be burning oil. It's not. I don't add it all year, and I drive it about 1,500 miles per year.
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I've put 6,000+ miles on it since the rebuild. It does have one chattery lifter on cold start...lasts about a minute. I'm going to guess it's not the pushrod causing this, and it could even be something in the rocker shaft assembly. It's not obnoxious, like a totally dry lifter, just a chatter. The only oil it uses is what leaks out of the fuel pump weep holes (I've tried 5 pumps so far; they all eventually leak, whether I rebuild them or someone else does). It uses less oil than any of my old cars. I'm 34, been working on old cars since I was 11, and I'm trying hard not to overthink some of these things. My local old school machinist assembled the engine for me (my Mustang was torn apart in my garage as I cut and welded on it at the time), and he didn't comment that the pushrods were incorrect, so I'd go ahead and run them. If they cause a problem, then you can scrounge around for old ones. Just my opinion, your mileage may vary. Besides, I literally have no idea where you'd get good factory ones; mine were mostly junk, probably like yours.
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Here's an underhood pic after the engine went in...hopefully it's clear enough for you to compare pushrods...
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Bob, the straight 8 Buicks feed the lifters backwards--through the rocker shaft and down the pushrods...
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I don't think I'd worry about it...from what I remember (it was 4 years ago), the pushrods I got from Kanter looked similar to your new ones.
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I believe the Fords and Citroens are there because they no longer sell them in America (English Fords). Corvairs are there because the show's in Ypsilanti, a stone's throw from Willow Run where they built them. I think they're allowed due to home field advantage.
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From what I understand, any synchromesh 263 had solids, all the way up to '53.
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Kanter had them 4 years ago at least...not cheap though.
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Aaron
I bought vent window seals for my 45R. I replaced them on my 48 Sedanet but the hardtop set up looks more complicated. The seals came with a bunch of screws to replace rivets along the top of the frame.
From your post above, I infer that the entire vent assembly needs to be removed. Then the glass window is removed by pulling down on the glass frame to free it from the top pivot. Is this correct?
Any other hints you can send to me would be appreciated. I have copies of the relevant parts of the shop manual and some other illustrations I acquired.
Thanks.
Joe, BCA 33493
That's correct Joe. Honestly, I don't remember what I did about the rivets...I did that job as the car was being painted, so it was one of about a million tasks I was finishing to get the car reassembled.
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I just encountered this last year...Pete Phillips gave me advice. You just pull down carefully on the vent glass and it will pop out of its pivot. Obviously be careful, and it must be done with the vent window out of the car.
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Pete, that is so cool...for some reason I'm a sucker for that vintage of Rambler wagon.
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Personally, I don't see that it could hurt. You may want to try collapsing the plungers while they're sitting in there to make sure they're getting full.
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I got mine from Egge, but I forgot how much I paid for them...they were a lot though. Some advice...even though they're new, I'd disassemble and clean them. I still have one that's a little sticky it seems. My guess is that they sit on the shelf for some time and the machining oil congeals. Also, break them in like you would a new cam...30 minutes at 1500-2000 RPM...they WILL make a ton of noise for nearly 10 minutes as the oiling system slowly pumps them up. Just do your best to not go nuts during that time.
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Threads like this kept me from being an annoying wannabe buyer 2 days ago...I saw one of my two dream cars at a cruise, a silver on silver '63 Riviera...the paint was so so, but it looked solid. It took everything I had to not go up and give the owner an unsolicited offer....BUT, I would HATE if someone approached me and asked to buy my car that didn't have a for sale sign in it. So I let it slide...Probably good, because I have nowhere to put it.
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Pete...show us pictures of the '58! How cool! John, that's a '63 Rambler.
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Definitely go 3 row if you can...they used a factory 2 row core in my Special for about $475 4 years ago, but I wish I would have spent a little to go bigger at that time. It runs nice and cool most of the time, but easing up toward 65-70 MPH for awhile on the freeway, and then getting into stop and go traffic still makes it run a little warm, in the upper range of normal. Even with a Caddy limo 7 bladed fan!
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I'd just give them a call...they're pretty good to deal with on the phone...Sorry about my earlier answer...for some reason I thought you were talking about the door to body seal all the way around the door.
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How bad is it? My '53 has a bit of gear noise when gas is applied that goes away when coasting...did you check the gear oil? These things are famous for having transmission fluid leak through the torque tube, contaminating the gear oil. That's the first place I'd check.
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I'd just buy it by the foot from Bob's Automobilia. I bought my first set from Steele Rubber, and they were nice, but $$$, because they're preformed. I paid about 65 dollars for both doors (from Bob's) on my '53 after it was repainted.
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That's fine...won't hurt the carb at all...I'd personally just carefully disassemble the switch and make sure it's clean. Don't lose any parts and be careful to note how it goes together. There are a few contacts in there that may be dirty. Just clean them up and you should be good to go.
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Here's a similar thread about the adjustment deal...
http://forums.aaca.org/f115/valve-adjustments-newly-rebuild-263-straight-266547.html
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Anything clogged back there can cause the lifter not to pump up. The lifters are fed by the rocker shaft. To replace the lifter, you need to pull the side cover off the engine. Get a new gasket first...I use high tack or something on the cover side of the gasket for easy removal later, if necessary. There should be some threads on here about valve adjustment when it comes to that...if everything is that gummed up, you may end up pulling that lifter to clean it out anyway. If you end up replacing one, break it in like you would a new cam. I'd be pulling off that rocker shaft next and cleaning everything.
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Do yourself a favor and get a shotgun cleaning kit...the brushes fit right through the rocker shaft assembly. AND make sure to remove all the rocker arms and clean out ALL the passages...they will be gummed up. You will most likely find an inch of sludge in the bottom of your oil pan near the drain plug. Clean out the oil pump pickup too. I can almost guarantee nobody has done this since that car was new!
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There seem to be so few stock Dueces out there...it would be a shame to see this one as another belly button hot rod. I'd try to sell it on this board first, since it would at least have a fighting chance of staying in its current form.
1953 mechanical lifters in straight 8??
in Buick - Post War
Posted
Nobody makes new straight 8 cams; they're all regrinds.