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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. There was a similar Dilbert strip about three years ago--I guess Scott Adams really doesn't like old cars! I wonder what they did to him??? :)

    Normally I like Dilbert...today's strikes me as a little ironic, considering the Dilbert character spent 10 hours in yesterday's strip checking his Facebook and Linked In accounts, along with watching "humorous" internet videos. Is that a worthwhile hobby? Am I a hypocrite for saying that on an internet forum?

  2. Hey Phil...

    First, hotter plugs won't help, and they could damage your engine by acting as "glow plugs" at higher speeds. They don't fire hotter, they just retain heat to keep them from fouling, and I don't think that's for just on start up, more for an engine that fouls them while running. My '53 has always started hard hot, largely due to the non-carburetor friendly gas we now have, but also due to the fact that there's a 600* exhaust manifold underneath it. I maintain a mechanical fuel pump, but I also have a 7/16" spacer from Bob's Automobilia, and I made a fuel return. By using one of those bypass fuel filters, I ran a return line to the filler neck, but I think the tank would be better if you could make it happen. I also stretched the exhaust valve body spring so it was always closed. I don't drive it in freezing weather, so I just have to put up with it being a little bit stubborn for the first half mile or so most of the time...basically I can't get on the gas quick or it will want to stall for a bit. Finally, there are two schools of thought for starting the engine hot. The first is to just touch the starter and not push down far on the gas pedal at all. I found that mine personally likes the owner's manual advice for a flooded engine...pushed and held all the way to the floor (no pumping). With the fuel bypass, mine now starts hot most of the time within a couple of seconds. Even so, I still get a raw fuel smell and a little black smoke most of the time. I think it's just the nature of the beast, but I haven't tried an electric fuel pump or anything either. Good luck!

  3. By all means, check out all the tune up items first. I can run my timing light on 6V, but my dialback light won't work, so I just hook the inductive "clamp" to cylinder #1, and then power the light from a spare 12V battery. Make sure the vacuum advance is working and the mechanical advance in the distributor is free. With all that being said...these things are slow by any standard. Mine would be lucky to get to 60 in under 20 seconds...Surprisingly, you get used to it, and it will keep up with city traffic just fine, but you use a lot of pedal, and gas mileage gets even worse. :) I tell people that it's really slow, but at least I get bad gas mileage. :) Overall, expect around 10 MPG if you use 10% Ethanol (which is pretty much all we have around here).

  4. I think we're at the improbable problem stage. It works great on the bench, so I know there are no blockages. However, as soon as the engine's running and I work the throttle, nothing. If I disconnect the throttle rod and work the pump manually, I can get a shot but I can tell the well doesn't refill correctly because I can feel the fuel level in the well go down every time I work the throttle. I won't take a giant whack with a hammer and punch...just a couple light taps. :)

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