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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. If it's not boiling over, it's not "hot," but I think that most people start to get concerned about 220* or so. I feel woozy over 205-210, but I've tried to remind myself over the years that I'm not really hurting anything at that temp. 235* is getting up there, but probably not warping things up there unless you continue to drive it that way over time. I'm sorry if I missed it, but have you gotten in contact with your engine builder? It seems like with oil leaks and temperature and vacuum and valve noise issues, the builder ought to be making this right. You likely paid some good money to have this thing done.

  2. It all looks good, but I would avoid using the throttle to operate the starter. First, my starter switch activates with just a slight application of throttle, but if I were you, I may disconnect the wires going to the carb switch, and just touch them together to activate the starter as you do the compression test. That way, you aren't squirting any fuel into the cylinders from the accelerator pump. You can probably skip removing the coil wire, because the engine's not going to start without plugs, but it certainly won't hurt anything to ground the coil wire to the engine. Doing the test with a warm engine is probably more accurate, but a cold engine will show any low cylinders. Just make sure the battery is charged and you probably don't need to keep the charger connected during the test, because there's less of a load on it when there aren't any spark plugs in. Good luck! Write down the results.

  3. Well, we're back to square one. I took it out for a good long drive on the freeway on a 75 degree day and it's leaking again. I cut the end of the bleeder off to make sure the orifice was the full 1/8". So now, I'm back to thinking that the paper gasket between the carrier and the housing just isn't cutting it when the oil's slinging against it, and the vent just made it happy enough that it's OK on short distances. I had this same problem between the transmission and differential in my Corvair, and I had to RTV it because the sealing surface was somewhat pitted after all these years. So I think it's going to have to come apart, which does NOT make me very happy. :(

  4. After driving a little bit more, I did today have a drop on the bottom of the housing. It hadn't actually hit the ground yet, but now I've gone probably 20 or 25 miles with it and get a small drip. I wonder if running one more brake bleeder and tying it into the other bleeder's hose would vent it enough to not leak. It's probably always leaked, but it was always so cruddy that I never noticed! It's amazing that they ran these things without a vent.

  5. I wonder what the interchangability is on these V6s. Maybe you could find a good running engine and swap it out, rather than spending many hundred or even thousand on a rebuild. It might be worth looking into. Then again, if it runs on all 6, maybe a mill and a valve job would do. However, I've found that headwork almost universally comes out to nearly $1000, no matter what. Good luck!

  6. I can't imagine it was designed that way...the head should be flat on the sealing surface. That stinks man...I forget, did you try pressurizing the cooling system? I think that's your next bet...go to your local big box auto parts store and rent a pressure tester. Hook it up to the radiator and pump it up to 15 pounds of pressure, and let it sit. If there's a leak, the pressure will go down and you may even see where it is leaking.

  7. I know it's "only a 4-door," but I'd hate to subject that thing to road salt and ruin it in a few short years. I'd go in and offer $2500. If I really liked it, I'd go $3000. If you planned on driving it regularly, you might as well plan on rebuilding the carb and putting in a new fuel pump, and changing out all the rubber--radiator, brake, and fuel hoses, as mentioned above. I dig the color... I've always thought these would make great regular drivers in nicer weather.

  8. I'm going to try this to see if it works. I got a 3/8-24 brake bleeder and washer, and I'm going to put it in the 2:00 position of the cover. I'm going to connect a hose to the bleeder, and hook the hose to a fuel filter to keep junk out, and run the hose somewhere out of the way. Where I'll run it...who knows? But I'm giving it a shot. That way I don't have to drill into the housing and take a chance on shavings getting in there. If this doesn't work, I'll probably install a vent in the cover.

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