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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I found the hood support I got from a salvage yard here in Michigan (actually, the guy who painted the car did).  It's pretty rough.  I assume the "roller" is supposed to roll...mine is frozen pretty solid (and it's not quite round anymore).  I'll keep soaking it.

  2. https://www.edelbrock.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/documents/carb-owners-manual.pdf


    You shouldn't have to change the jets/rods as a result of the engine size itself, but if you've moved to Denver recently you might.  The 1406 is quite lean out of the box, so you may want to give it a try as is - it might be perfect for your altitude.  Remember that reading the plugs with modern ethanol unleaded fuel is difficult.  The plugs will look normal over a wide range of air-fuel ratios.  I use a temporary AFR gauge and oxygen sensor to initially tune my cars, but after a while, you start to understand where you're at by feel.  Good luck!


    I've attached the Edelbrock tuning guide above.  Usually, you want to go one step at a time.

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  3. 8 hours ago, JBP said:



    Does your Special have the longer hood guide pin and upgraded latch?

    I changed out the originals on mine to the “upgraded” ones outlined in the Buick Service Bulletin book, and there was a noticeable fit and alignment improvement afterward. 

    (and slathering the hinges with lithium grease helped too)

    Yes, it does.  I think mine was built pretty late in the model year, like July or August 1953.  

    • Like 1
  4. These are all good ideas, Doug.  It's like you're reading my mind with the turnbuckles; my thought was to remove two of the rearmost bolts, but they have that weird bolt head on them - they're shaped kind of like a baked potato.  It might be better to use hooks attached to the rear hinge itself and just give it a gentle pull to suck the sides in.


    First, I'll probably try your dowel idea, but I'm having a hard time picturing what you did - did you close the hood over the short dowels and then use pressure on the edges to crown the hood a little?  

  5. Thanks for all the replies (I like your colors too, Kestrel).  I tried the center support once but as I recall, it pushed the hood farther up in the back, which made the edges even worse.  In reply to Chris, I've never actually looked at the edges to see if there has been major bodywork done there; the hood looks pretty normal underneath, but anything's possible over 67 years.  The Super and Roadmaster (I believe) had adjustable fender tops to line up with the hood, but the Special doesn't have that.  I've shimmed them up as much as possible but it's obviously not nearly enough.  I'll try to find that support and see if I can make it help, but I've been messing with it so long that I've forgotten everything I've tried.  I know I've tried everything with hinge adjustment.

  6. I've owned my '53 Special for 15 years, and the hood has never fit right.  I've tried about every adjustment I can make, but I think the hood's out of shape.  You can see from the pictures that it's high on the back edges where it meets the fenders, and it's also wide where it meets the doors.  In the center of the hood at the cowl, it's low.  The 1952 shop manual mentions reshaping the hood with turnbuckles if it's wide, but Buick changed the hood to the alligator style in '53, so I don't know if that's an option or if it's something I should even attempt on a painted car.

    In retrospect, I should have dealt with it when I had the car painted after a driveway incident 10 years ago, but sometimes I'm a little daydreamy and will miss the obvious, to my later chagrin.  

    Anyway, I've lived with this for 15 years, and it's not that important, but if anyone with advanced bodywork experience has any ideas, I'm just thinking about possible options aside from trying to find another hood and painting it.  

    Hood 1.JPG

    Hood 2.JPG

    Hood 3.JPG

    Hood 4.JPG

    Hood 5.JPG

    Hood 6.JPG

    Hood 7.jpg

    Hood 8.JPG

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  7. My '53 forced fluid from the center section gasket after I switched to rubber seals.  A local long-time parts guy came up with using a brass fitting with the proper threads in place of an inspection cover bolt to vent the housing.  I ran a hose from the fitting to an open fuel filter and tied it to the frame so no junk gets back into the differential.  

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  8. 8 hours ago, JamesR said:

    The price looks like it's been dropped another thousand bucks to $7000. If it's been in AZ most of it's life and is as good as the ad makes it seem, it would be a very good deal, IMO. Those  early iconic 4-seater T-Birds usually are very good deals, though. Almost makes me feel bad about owning my '65; I have as much money (or more) in mine...and it hasn't been painted yet.


    Don't feel bad.  I have more in my '63 as well, and it also has an old paint job and the air doesn't work yet.  This seems like a good deal, but the buyer will end up dumping money into it, just like most of us do.  :)

    • Like 1
  9. 2 hours ago, Pfeil said:


    Tell me something?. When the intake charge is drawn into the cylinder- intake valve open, compressed- both valves closed, ignited and driven down- both valves closed, finally exhausted-exhaust valve open. What difference which side of the cylinder does incoming  mixture flow and exhaust stroke flow make? There are plenty of Overhead valve engines that intake and exhaust on the same side.   



    The answer to my question is There isn't.

    When the exhaust and intake manifolds are on different sides of the head, the heat from the exhaust doesn't affect the carburetor and intake manifold, because it's not right underneath them as it is on most American inline engines.  Modern gas boils and expands at a fairly low temperature, so anything you can do to keep the carburetor cooler will help a car with heat soak issues after a long run on the highway.  This may not have been a problem when these cars were new, but it is now.  I know exactly what he's talking about; I run a return line back to the tank on my straight-8 Buick to bleed fuel pressure after shutdown.  Carbking on this forum turned me on to that idea about 10 years ago.

  10. Hey Phil,

    If your fuel pump is anything like the combination fuel/vacuum pump in my '53 Buick, get used to the oil leak from the pump.  I've discovered that it's dry for about 1000-2000 miles, and then it starts weeping, and eventually it's a full-fledged leak.  It doesn't matter if I rebuild it or buy a rebuilt one; I use some lawn mower foam air filter material and a binder clip as an "oil catcher," and I just replace it or flip it around every once in a while.  Maybe others have been luckier or smarter than I am.  


  11. This car was at a shop in my town a few years ago.  I stopped by and asked about it (I love '54 and '55 Coupe DeVilles), and the shop owner said the then current owner wanted about $15,000 for it.  That was too much for me.  I later saw it on Craigslist for somewhere over $15,000 - I can't remember.  I did see it on its way out of town on a trailer...I guess it ended up in Howard City.  

  12. That DID happen to me once.  I bought my '53 Buick in 2005, when I was 28 years old.  When I was in my early 30s, an older gentleman asked me if I was the original owner.  I very rarely am left without a snappy comeback, but I didn't know what to say.  The only other time I was that flabbergasted by a question or comment in public was when an older lady looked at me on a Sunday morning in a grocery store parking lot and said, "You look like I feel!"  Well OK then.  :)  

    Nothing like keeping a fella down to earth!

  13. Hey all,

    I'd like to have the vacuum motors on my '65 Dart rebuilt; they work, but they no longer hold a vacuum when I use my vacuum pump, so they're likely on their way out.  The heater's important, because the Dart is my cold, dry weather old car, and nobody likes vacuum leaks anyway.  Anyone know of a reliable rebuilder with a reasonably quick turnaround time?  Thanks!


  14. 5 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

    Aaron, the flexible wire used inside the distributor is available. I can't remember where, but have seen it recently.  Perhaps one of the wiring harness companies?


     I went to electronic ignition and have not looked back.  The pertronix is a good, inexpensive and reliable system. It CAN be a problem for six volt systems if the voltage is not up to snuff.  As can other things.



    I've switched to electronic in 5 out of the 7 as well...new points just seemed to be a crap shoot.  The only thing keeping me from making the switch (ha!) on the '53 is the generator; I've read that electronic modules don't like the inconsistent voltage.  I forget...did you convert to 12 V?

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