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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. If you can get a copy of the August (I think it was) 2009 Buick Bugle, I wrote an article about fixing the torque ball seals on my '53. You'll need some room to pull the differential/torque tube out the back (not necessary to pull it all the way out), and a helper really helps. The rest is pretty straightforward. If you're mechanical and plan all your moves out ahead of time, it may be a 2-4 hour job, depending on how bolts go in and out, etc. Good luck!

  2. Maybe this new rocker shaft is not the same as the old one...Might be worth making sure all the oil holes in the shaft are in the same place...If the old one oiled normally and the new one doesn't, even after a cleaning, something else is wrong. Do you still have the old shaft to compare it to?

  3. I really like my Corvair! Might want to check out corvaircenter.com...good site for these cars. Beware, however, as 95% of those guys will tell you to part it out because it has too much rust. I'm a glutton for punishment, however, and like to fix stuff as a hobby. Unfortunately, I'm more underwater in mine than a sunken Amphicar! (Or Corvair) Oh well...

  4. #1...Is this a solid lifter car?

    #2...Do you have the valves adjusted correctly?

    #3...There are two types of adjuster ball studs on these rocker shafts...one for hydraulic lifters, one for solids...do you have the right one? The ball stud for hydraulics will have an extra oil passage to feed the lifters from above.

    #4...After cleaning out the shaft, did you replace the plugs at the ends of the shaft?

    #5...When cleaning out the shaft, did you also take all the rocker arms and ball studs off and clean out the crud from the oil holes? They will be completely packed with scum if you didn't...

  5. The brake pedal will drop when you put the car in gear on any car with drum brakes, so that's normal. I didn't go through the whole thread, but are you sure that every brake is adjusted so that you can hear the shoes just rubbing the drum as you spin the wheel? I had one that I forgot to adjust up once and it ruined my pedal. Even when they're working well, it seems like the pedal travel on old Buicks isn't like newer cars...mine has more pedal travel than my 60s cars, and I've been through the whole system too.

  6. Have you ever seen a Packard Darrin parked next to a Continental? I'll be generous and say it's a push. However, the first time the two cars go up a hill side by side you'll find one has a bit more power.

    Yes, I've seen that cool Darrin sedan too...my opinion still stands...and the Continental could lose a drag race to a Model T and it wouldn't make any difference to me...

  7. I finally gave in and did it. I cut the gaskets and used just the intake gaskets. I had the machine shop cut the intake manifold a bit more so I could run the gasket, and I had them open up the bolt holes in the valve body and intake so I had a little more adjustment between the two manifolds. I used High Temp RTV on all of the gaskets between the valve body and manifolds. Graphite and oil between the exhaust manifold and head... It's pretty quiet now, but I don't have my hopes up. I really wish they would have split the manifold from the factory...I really think it's just too long of a manifold...warps too easily, moves around too much.

  8. Even if the timing chain were stretched there would be spark...it would have to be broken for there to be no spark. Start working backward. No spark at the plugs? OK...No spark from the coil? The neutral safety switch would keep it from cranking. Like mentioned above, I'd check for voltage at the + terminal of the coil and see if you're getting battery voltage there.

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