Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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What's your timing set at? These things aren't exactly speed machines, but 55 MPH should be a piece of cake for them.
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Looks fun! I like them, too. Now that you have a Kaiser, you have to check out the Ypsilanti Automotive Heritage museum when you get to Michigan. Kaisers, as you probably know, were built nearby in Willow Run, where Corvairs/Novas, etc. were built.
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Put on the draft tube. It works fine.
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I personally had to be towed because of a carb failure. I now carry an EFI set up. I also wear a belt, suspenders, and velcro. What it comes down to is if you are comfortable with points and don't mind the hassle use them. If you like the maintenance free aspect of an electronic switch use it. Both can, on occasion, fail for one reason or another. Anything made by the hand of man will, at some point, fail. In the mean time they both work fine. The best defense against failures of any kind or sort is a AAA policy. Oy vey already............Bob.
This made my day, Bob...
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My recent experience with condensers that took a long boat ride to get to the US is not to change one that is working. The last time I did a tune-up after 9 years just for general principles I was treated to a flatbed ride home when the wire came out of my Asian condenser. The 9 year old one is back in and working fine.
When your points are just worn with no sign of arcing or deposits of material from surface to surface the condenser is doing its job. Leave it in. I have decided to only install Echlin points is I have to buy local. NAPA has them. Otherwise I am stocking up on genuine old stock for Ebay and the like. The general consumer auto parts stores are selling very suspicious, low quality items.
If my 9 year old one goes bad I have an unused condenser that is probably at least 20 years old to replace it with.
By the way, am I the only one who remembers what NOS and NORS means? Ebay sellers need a class.
Bernie
I've had a few sets seem to suspiciously go bad on me lately...It's a sad day when you can't even get a reliable set of points and a condenser anymore.
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Just because something's new doesn't mean it's good!
Here's a neat (easily googled) website that may help...
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Michigan salts roads with the best of them...the first time they salt, the cars go into hibernation. I add Stabil to the tanks, but don't fill them. Michigan gas turns bad faster than you can look at it (personal experience). I jack the tires up about 10 psi, maybe undo the battery ground, check to make sure they're reasonably clean, and that's it. I usually don't start or move them.
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I have a list of 28 cars I'd buy. I have 4. Probably 5 are unobtainable or stupid money. I'd buy 20 odd cars, none costing more than my all-time dream car, a 1941 Continental.
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You're moving to the motor capital of the world! We have great car museums, some of the best car shows in the world, ridiculous car insurance, and crappy roads. Houses are super cheap in much of the state, which is nice, unless you bought a house at peak like I did...
I'd stay out of Pontiac and Flint proper. I'd say anywhere in the outskirts will be OK. The places you mentioned would be nice places to live.
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DOLLARS..........lets be honest would ANYONE HERE spend $1,500 to SAVE that lump? Didn't think so. IF it won First in Class at Pebble Beach (someone claimed it was FULL Classic) would it sell for over $20,000........................and what will the cost of a TOTAL restoration go for in 2013 dollars? Bob
You don't HAVE to totally restore it. We are living in a time when driving a car like that, as is (mechanically checked, of course), is cool! Granted, Straight 8s aren't cheap for parts, but they're cheaper than putting a full new frame underneath! I think this would be a fun cruiser if you didn't put TOO much money into it.
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That car will never hit the road again.
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Wow, what a conundrum. There has to be two people in the Buick Club with '63 Wildcats that can compare tunnels side by side. Am I mistaken in thinking that a lot of manual trans cars in the 60s had a kind of "add-on" tunnel for the shift linkages and what not? Is this something that might be in a 1963 Body manual???
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Take it apart and at the very least clean it out. If any junk/cobwebs/dead animals got in, you could have real problems. What if one main jet is partially plugged and you lean out half your cylinders going down the road? What if some trash is in the needle and seat and you're dumping raw fuel all over the place? It's not worth it.
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The 390 badge in the pic looks askew. Somebody probably just thought it looked cool.
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It might be sad, but I may enjoy that car show more than a regular Concours! There are some unusual vehicles there, or "hoopties," as John Davis would say in his most overtly scripted moments.
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You, my friend, have two problems. #1 You live in Michigan... #2 You have a straight 8 Buick.
After driving my '53 for 8 years, I have come to the conclusion that our gas is crap, and that big old manifold under the carburetor exacerbates that fact. You've done all the right things so far. If your carb has a sight plug on the float bowl, remove it and lower the float until it's just wetting the lower threads. The biggest help was some advice Jon the Carbking gave me...I created a fuel bypass. I run a threeway fuel filter with a bypass port near the carb, and I ran a hard return line back the the fuel filler. It would probably be better to run it back to the tank or sender. That helped a lot, but not 100%. How you start it makes a big difference. Every car is different. On the Buick, I touch the accelerator to crank the engine for about 2-3 seconds without squirting fuel into the carb through the accelerator pump. Then, especially on hot days, I hold it to the floor and it starts within a couple of seconds. I found that my V8 cars are much less sensitive to heat soak, probably because the carbs don't live on top of an exhaust manifold. My Corvair's terrible though, probably worse than the Buick. -
I can only speak for myself, but you are far from the only person on this board who has done something like that. Can you imagine all the time and money wasted on boneheadedness in the car world alone???
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I looked at mine before I drove it yesterday...I was right except for the Phillips part...they're small slotted screws.
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From memory, I believe there are small phillips screws on the inside of the door trim. You may have to remove the window stops to roll the window down enough to get at them. Then, there are just clips on the outside that the trim should just pop out of. I haven't had that torn apart in a few years, so your mileage may vary.
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I'll take a '50 Fleetline two-door!
I've never liked '57s or understood their popularity, but at Motor Muster I saw an all-black 210 hardtop with thin whitewalls, and it did look sharp.
I'll take a '56 210 hardtop out of the three years.
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I'm in the exact same situation...I give my newer ones to the local hospital, but I have ones from when I was a kid in the 80s and 90s that are taking up a bunch of space in the basement. Good ideas here, but sad to say, no magic bullet! Thanks for bringing up this subject, Don...it looks like there are plenty of us in the same boat!
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Bob's Automobilia did (or had a replacement for) mine about 8 years ago...it's been good so far.
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I make it every year--it was a great show yesterday, as always!
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Could it be that the new carbs are jetted to small and it is running lean??
You say "I've 32 degrees advance at 3000 rpm"
Going by the book, full advance should be 13@1500 rpm. Did you check the springs in the centrifugal advance ??
Danny
13 degrees distributor advance at 1500 RPM means 26 degrees crankshaft advance at 3000 RPM. Therefore, if you have 4 degrees initial, your total advance is 30 degrees at 3000 RPM. Then you must add your vacuum advance at cruise. Bert, I assume you checked the vacuum advance...??? If that's not working, you'll run a little warm. Additionally, did the dyno operators check the air-fuel ratio when they were tuning the car? I would think the carbs would have to be lean enough to cause driveability issues if they were lean enough to cause higher engine temps. Did '41s have a pressurized cooling system?
49 Buick Super, new project and roadblocks
in Buick - Post War
Posted
It's certainly possible that the mechanical advance in the distributor is frozen...have you checked that out?