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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. I don't think you'll get it spinning fast enough to get a good reading. You could probably just use a battery to get the starter spinning for 5 revolutions if there is a battery, making sure the engine is blocked up safely.

  2. I think you're going to have a tough time getting an answer. From what I could gather when I did this, the '53s didn't have a Fireball sticker. The Buick--Valve in Head sticker goes on the passenger side rear of the Valve Cover, and that's it. If it has Hydralic lifters, that sticker will be somewhere on the valve cover too. I put the F263 corcle behind the Buick sticker, but I don't think it had one originally. Good luck!

  3. For anybody who's interested, I drilled the hinge strap adjustment holes to 7/16" and got the door gaps nearly even all the way around. It has been low forever; it had worn out the striker when I bought it! Now that it's adjusted right, it's straddling the unworn part of the striker, so I may need to get a new striker...

  4. OK, so I'm not so stupid...the A-pillar hinge adjustments are all the way up, and the door still lines up low. It's strange, nothing is obviously wrong or bent. Anyway, I'm back to drilling the hinge straps adjustment holes up to 7/16"...wish me luck!

  5. OK, I've got a weird one...my driver's door is past the range of adjustment (I've run out of adjusting room on the hinge) and won't line up high enough in the back without bringing the top too far forward. The hinges aren't worn and the car doesn't seem like it's been in any wrecks or anything. Anyway, has anybody opened up the adjustment holes on the hinges a bit? I'm guessing the holes are 3/8"...I'm thinking of opening them up to 7/16" to give myself the room I need. The hinge is pretty substantial, so I'm pretty secure about doing this, but any tips/pointers/reinforcements would be nice. Thanks!

  6. Getting down to the end on putting my '53 back together after paint, but I forgot which door crank spring goes where...I have a few smaller springs and several larger ones. I have 2 cranks for the vent windows, 2 handles for the door releases, 2 cranks for the front windows and 2 cranks for the rear windows...any help would be appreciated! I'm talking about the springs that go behind the door panels where the window cranks go.

  7. Getting down to the end on putting my '53 back together after paint, but I forgot which door crank spring goes where...I have a few smaller springs and several larger ones. I have 2 cranks for the vent windows, 2 handles for the door releases, 2 cranks for the front windows and 2 cranks for the rear windows...any help would be appreciated! I'm talking about the springs that go behind the door panels where the window cranks go.

  8. When that happened with mine, it turned out to be a bad fuel pump...nobody agreed with me, but I've been working around these things for awhile, and I rebuilt the fuel pump...problem solved. Must have been a check valve or something...it would spew gas out of the top of the carburetor. On the other hand, might you have your choke a bit too tight, making everything a bit too rich when you try to start it?

  9. Prices of valve jobs depends on what else needs to be done. Oftentimes the exhaust valves are bad, and guides may need to be replaced. It seems like the last few I had done were around 800 dollars with parts and labor--me buying the parts. BUT, one of them was on a straight 8, which has more expensive parts than a nailhead. Good luck--maybe it's just the valves!

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