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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. Calling all '53 owners...do any of you have anything on the center rear edge of your hood, like a bumper? My hood has a space at the rear edge with two bolt holes, and something on the cowl that lines up with the area, but nothing mounted there. If you do have something there, a picture or description would be nice, and a source for the part. Thanks in advance!

  2. I'd bet on the master cylinder...I bought a NOS one and rebuilt it...mine needed to be resleeved and the NOS one was cheaper. Keep an eye out on ebay or you can send yours out to Apple Hydraulics to get resleeved. Good luck on the sale! My '53 is out getting painted as we speak...should be done in a few weeks...can't wait (even though I have to get everything put back together before I can drive it!)...

  3. I think you'll find the door handle will come out very easily. Remove the cover over the large clip that holds the handle on. The clip will be in plain view now, so just pry it out gently with a flat screwdriver until you can grab it with pliers. It should pop right out...hang on to the door handle, as it will now be free. As far as the trim is concerned, there are little screws that hold the trim on the back side of the door. You will have to remove one bolt that holds one of the middle window channels in to allow the window to roll down far enough to get to them. I'm not sure if there is a vent window to remove on a 4 door to get to it. Once the screws are out, there are just clips on the other side that hold the trim on, so just carefully pop it out...A picture is worth a thousand words here, but my car's out getting repainted, and it's a 2 door, so hopefully you can muddle through it...good luck...it's pretty intuitive once you look around a bit.

  4. Really, you should disassemble the whole unit and look for scoring. With what these things cost rebuilt, a tiny bit of scoring is probably OK, big gouges probably aren't. The problem is that it is probably gummed up with sludge, and the shaft needs to be cleaned. You should also take the adjusters out of the rocker arms and clean all passageways in both. I cleaned my shaft with a 12 gauge shotgun cleaning kit that I bought at the store, and I used small drills to clean the rocker passages by hand.

  5. Thanks Pete...figured out the rest...I was labeling the window track "rollers" incorrectly. They don't roll! They just insulate the regulator channels from rattling. I found a strip of 1/8 in. felt and cut them out with scissors and a hobby punch. I bought some felt for the rear channel too...it's just regular width but should be OK...there's nothing but bare steel in there now...no wonder the windows were rattling!

  6. My '53 Special Hardtop is going in for paint in a month or so, and it's in a billion pieces. Right now, I'm fixing some things inside the doors...I need to replace the rubber rollers that roll inside the window tracks. The ones in the car don't look like the ones I got from Bob's...anybody use the ones from Bob's? They're smaller, and I'm not sure exactly how to go about using them...Question 2...I have all new sweepers and window channel felts. The channel at the back of the door (the hinge side) has no felt or anything inside it, or any holes for rivets. Is there supposed to be any channel felt there? Hopefully someone can help, I realize these are somewhat obscure questions!


  7. Does anyone know where I could get a few rocker molding round clips for my '53? They're 1 1/4 inches in diameter, and are just a little round clip the the lip of the molding slips behind before it's screwed in. The clips have a screw going through the middle of them to hold them to the rocker panel. Bob's doesn't have them, and some of mine are rusty from water hanging up behind the molding over the years...any help's appreciated...Thanks!


  8. You'll probably be best off pulling out the torque tube and transmission, especially if you don't have an engine hoist. You can pull th etorque tobe back a few inches, but it's 2 extra bolts holding the springs in and you have it out. It helps to have two floor jacks and a helper.

  9. I grew up with the cars of the 80s and early 90s...my family had an '83 LeSabre Limited coupe, and my grandpa had a '77 LeSabre Custom coupe, but I never was much into them. Living near Sloan Museum in Flint, MI, however, I remember the smell of late 40s/early 50s Buicks. I don't know if it was the old interiors or the engines or what, but I never forgot it, and I was subconsciously hooked...now look what I drive! It smells just like I remember.

  10. I noticed absolutely no change in oil pressure between 10W30, 15W40, and straight 30W oil. The only difference I noticed was that the engine turned over harder when cold with straight 30W. Buick recommended 20W when new, but that's only because multi-weights didn't exist. As soon as they did--Buick recommended them. 10W30 is recommended in my '65 Skylark's owner's manual.

  11. Well, I'm getting my '53 repainted this winter, and I'm considering getting the front bumper and some knick-knacks rechromed if I can afford it. It's probably been discussed before, but does anybody have a good experience to share? I'm looking for durable driver quality, keeping in mind that I'm a 32 year old high school teacher without a bottomless bank account. :) Thanks!

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