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Aaron65

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Posts posted by Aaron65

  1. You're moving to the motor capital of the world! We have great car museums, some of the best car shows in the world, ridiculous car insurance, and crappy roads. Houses are super cheap in much of the state, which is nice, unless you bought a house at peak like I did... :)

    I'd stay out of Pontiac and Flint proper. I'd say anywhere in the outskirts will be OK. The places you mentioned would be nice places to live.

  2. DOLLARS..........lets be honest would ANYONE HERE spend $1,500 to SAVE that lump? Didn't think so. IF it won First in Class at Pebble Beach (someone claimed it was FULL Classic) would it sell for over $20,000........................and what will the cost of a TOTAL restoration go for in 2013 dollars? Bob

    You don't HAVE to totally restore it. We are living in a time when driving a car like that, as is (mechanically checked, of course), is cool! Granted, Straight 8s aren't cheap for parts, but they're cheaper than putting a full new frame underneath! I think this would be a fun cruiser if you didn't put TOO much money into it.

  3. You, my friend, have two problems. #1 You live in Michigan... #2 You have a straight 8 Buick. :) After driving my '53 for 8 years, I have come to the conclusion that our gas is crap, and that big old manifold under the carburetor exacerbates that fact. You've done all the right things so far. If your carb has a sight plug on the float bowl, remove it and lower the float until it's just wetting the lower threads. The biggest help was some advice Jon the Carbking gave me...I created a fuel bypass. I run a threeway fuel filter with a bypass port near the carb, and I ran a hard return line back the the fuel filler. It would probably be better to run it back to the tank or sender. That helped a lot, but not 100%. How you start it makes a big difference. Every car is different. On the Buick, I touch the accelerator to crank the engine for about 2-3 seconds without squirting fuel into the carb through the accelerator pump. Then, especially on hot days, I hold it to the floor and it starts within a couple of seconds. I found that my V8 cars are much less sensitive to heat soak, probably because the carbs don't live on top of an exhaust manifold. My Corvair's terrible though, probably worse than the Buick.

  4. From memory, I believe there are small phillips screws on the inside of the door trim. You may have to remove the window stops to roll the window down enough to get at them. Then, there are just clips on the outside that the trim should just pop out of. I haven't had that torn apart in a few years, so your mileage may vary.

  5. I'm in the exact same situation...I give my newer ones to the local hospital, but I have ones from when I was a kid in the 80s and 90s that are taking up a bunch of space in the basement. Good ideas here, but sad to say, no magic bullet! Thanks for bringing up this subject, Don...it looks like there are plenty of us in the same boat!

  6. Could it be that the new carbs are jetted to small and it is running lean??

    You say "I've 32 degrees advance at 3000 rpm"

    Going by the book, full advance should be 13@1500 rpm. Did you check the springs in the centrifugal advance ??

    Danny

    13 degrees distributor advance at 1500 RPM means 26 degrees crankshaft advance at 3000 RPM. Therefore, if you have 4 degrees initial, your total advance is 30 degrees at 3000 RPM. Then you must add your vacuum advance at cruise. Bert, I assume you checked the vacuum advance...??? If that's not working, you'll run a little warm. Additionally, did the dyno operators check the air-fuel ratio when they were tuning the car? I would think the carbs would have to be lean enough to cause driveability issues if they were lean enough to cause higher engine temps. Did '41s have a pressurized cooling system?

  7. Hmmm...I'm pretty sure I put a gasket in there. It just so happens that my oil pan is off right now allowing easy access to the oil pump. I did notice a significant drop in hot idle pressure after I re-built that pump. Only at an idle though. It seemed to be fine going down the road. Pressure is supposed to drop at idle though. Wonder if I should remove that gasket? Thoughts?

    Remove it...after a long drive on a hot day, you'll have almost no idle oil pressure.

  8. Running the gasket lowered my hot oil pressure significantly. I removed it and oil pressure returned to an acceptable level. I think the gasket might be there to add clearance if need be. I don't have numbers, as I was using the dash gauge, but I do know that with the gasket in there, I was down to 7 psi on my mechanical gauge at hot idle (and not summer freeway hot either, just normal 20-30 minutes or so running hot). At a 35 MPH cruise, my dash gauge was 1/3 to 1/2 way in the normal band. Now, without the gasket, it's near the top of the band. The shop manual gives a clearance range for the end plate to gears...and it turns out that's pretty crucial.

  9. Love them both...they're both on my list of stuff I'll buy if I find the right one. I like the Riv better, and I may even take a '66/7 Riv over a Toro, but Toros still make me feel all funny inside. I came pretty close to pulling the trigger on a '65 Riv in March, but they're getting fairly expensive. A $10,000 Riv today would have probably been a $5-6000 one five years ago. I may have missed out...

  10. Obviously, the problem goes beyond age here. I'm 36, and have had at least one antique car since I could drive. I've only felt out of place once at any car event. Like many people my age and younger of today, I'm just not a joiner. I don't know why this is, but I think service organizations and car clubs are eventually going to go away, which is a shame. I don't mind "hanging out" in short doses, but I would never spend an entire day on a tour with a bunch of other people. I'd much rather just take a drive in the country with my wife. I've ALWAYS been like that, and I think, unfortunately, many people in my age bracket feel the same way. Further compounding the problem is that many young people today couldn't care less about cars...period. It's nothing like it was when my Dad was young; I'm a high school teacher, and I notice this on a daily basis. There are still car guys and girls out there, but they're a definite minority.

    I joined the Buick Club for a year, and I will say that the folks I talked to and met in that organization were always polite and friendly to me, and I never felt like they were shunning me because I was youngish. But I don't really care if people shun me or not, so maybe I just didn't notice. So, to sum up, enjoy what you have in your own way, and do your best to educate yourself and have a good time with the car hobby. If people don't want to talk to you, then find someone who will. Regarding the above posting that introverts should find a new hobby--I feel that's absurd. While it's inevitable that you will always meet new people when driving an old car, it's not my job to be an ambassador for the hobby, regardless of what others think. I LOVE driving and working on old cars, and that's enough.

  11. That screw on the side of a Stromberg does the same thing. When you remove it with the engine running, fuel should be just at the bottom of the threads. If it pours out, the float level's too high. If it doesn't, well, too low.

    I know this has been brought up several times...I'd really be leaning toward pushrod length/lifter compatibility. I have little experience with Nailheads, but Willie does, and the way the engine's running sure does lean in that direction. If you drive it too long with the valves not sealing, you'll start burning them, and the heads will have to come off. I'd be pulling a valve cover, removing the rocker shaft, and measuring a pushrod and getting back to the nailhead guys with the length at the very least right now.

  12. If the crank and cam are out of time, piston could be hitting a valve stopping the rotation...Can you turn the engine backwards? Tom

    Straight 8 timing gears do not line up dot to dot like a V8's would...The shop manual shows how they should be lined up, so could this be a possibility?

  13. Fine print gave a deadline of Dec. 22, 1966 for entries to be received. Probably created the ad campaign in the Summer of '66, then figure lead times for the print ad, so the "new" Mustang the girls would win would be a '67 model. Is that a burgundy interior in that pink '66?

    TG

    Bingo...nobody but Ford would have had access to a '67 Mustang when the ad came out.

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