Aaron65
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Posts posted by Aaron65
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It's been a long time since I had mine out, but I think you can wiggle it free from the gauge once you remove the screws...mine's a little different since it's a '53, but I think the idea's the same. I don't remember taking out the whole cluster when I had my temp gauge rebuilt.
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2 hours ago, 60FlatTop said:
Point is, cars will have all those misbehavior's if you aren't sinking some into them every year. I am guessing some years the highest expense was on polish. And it don't work that way.
Today I was replacing a right rear wheel cylinder in my '65 Skylark, remembering that I did that job when I bought the car in 2003. Time flies! Then, the gas tank vent hose started seeping. I'd NEVER replaced that, and it was ancient. While I was under there, I noticed that the main hose from the sender to the fuel line was spongy. I may have done that a while back, but I replaced it again today. It was an engaging two hours. Times that by 9 (my total number of cars), and I can understand why I feel like I'm always working on a car!
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That one is a Swinger 340...anything with a 340 brings a premium.
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You may want to head over to this website and post it there as well:
https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/
You may be priced a little high considering the paint, but '67-'69 Dart hardtops are worth more than some people think...you may not be too far off. Good luck!
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Yeah, that video made me a little sad. I think a lot of us would love to have that maroon '66 Toronado, and it's just been sitting in the garage since 1971, in addition to a ton of other decent stuff. It's his money and space, and if it makes him happy, great, but there's almost no way I'd be sitting on that many cars I didn't use. If I own it, I'm working toward making it run and drive, or it already runs and drives.
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It's getting close!
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That's a great looking car.
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Yeah, I figure it will be a savings of several hundred dollars at least when everything's added up; but perhaps more importantly, I think it will drive a lot nicer with radials. It's the only car I own with bias ply tires, and while I'm certainly used to it and don't mind it, it might be nice if the car didn't have such a mind of its own on grooved highways and over ruts left by Michigan's heavily loaded trucks.
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PM sent, Ben.
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They are bias-ply tires...The car certainly sits a fair share throughout the year, but I drive it enough that the tires don't flat spot. The Coker website recommends the same thing as the other suppliers/manufacturers, to replace tires every 10 years. Just for education's sake, why would a bias ply last longer?
Thanks for the link to the trim rings!
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My beloved '53 Special (not the one shown below) will probably need new tires next year, as its Coker Classics are 10 years old. I drive the car at least 750 miles a year, so I was thinking of saving the $750 or so and just going with some blackwall radials, and I was thinking about doing something along the lines of a car I saw on v8Buick.com (pictured below). Mine sits at stock height, but I'm considering some dog dish hubcaps with either the "Buick" script or wide spaced block lettering and some trim rings. It looks like CARS, Inc. sells a reproduction set, but they're $400. My car is quite nice, but not 100% perfect, so if anyone has a nice driver quality set they'd be willing to part with, I'm in the market. Thanks for listening!
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7 hours ago, nickelroadster said:
Doesn't this car have a 1966 dashboard?
1965 Mustang GTs were produced with the dashboard that became standard in '66 on all models.
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2 hours ago, auburnseeker said:
Probably doesn't help they took Votech/ shop class out of schools, so guys don't know a thing about mechanical work or even how to wet their feet for those that aren't born into a Mechanical family. It's easier for the counselors to push college degrees in liberal arts than to see the value in teaching a trade.
I'm a high school liberal arts teacher, and you're mostly right, but most schools are pushing STEM degrees (science, technology, engineering, math), at least in Michigan. Unfortunately, few of these students (at my school anyway) are truly interested in anything mechanical. Those who want to be engineers seem to go into it, to some extent, due to the perception of a comfortable lifestyle more than any burning interest in how things work (not that I blame them). The medical field seems really popular right now. Times change... Cars are more reliable, so you don't have to get to know them by working on them on a regular basis. Most schools don't have auto shop (which is partially a chicken and egg deal), so they're not exposed to cars there. I think quite a few kids like the modern stuff, some like older stuff, but it's never going to be like it was when my dad was a kid, or even when I was a kid, when 5.0 Mustangs were really popular.
This year's graduating class had a refreshing number of kids going into the trades, like welding and construction. Few mechanics. I'd still say it was under 10 percent. I hope things get better in the future; I try to sell the trades to interested students whenever I can.
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I too am using Remflex gaskets on my '53, and Matt is correct in saying that they are a huge improvement over anything else (at least in my experience). I think the main reason they're so good on the straight 8 is that they're thick enough to allow movement but not break the seal. The top layers of my gaskets are a little scrunched up, but they don't leak.
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Both of those are super cool! I'm surprised they're still there after six days; both the Courier and the F-250 look solid. I'd dig a Courier or a LUV, but shipping that thing would cost more than it's worth and I've truly got no more room. I'm paying for storage on three as it is.
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How is this still here? What a generous gesture and a great car! Someone in the area ought to be driving this around already...
My wife just added, "What a great potential Father's Day gift!"
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A lot of condensation builds up in a crankcase, especially with a road draft system. If your road draft tube has any rust in it, which it probably does, thanks to the aforementioned condensation, the water that drips from it will look like oil. If you're truly concerned that it could be antifreeze, the first thing I'd do is rent a radiator pressure tester from a parts store, follow the instructions, and see what you come up with. If it's running well and not running hot, then you probably just need to take a longer drive to get the oil really hot. 15 minutes around town won't do it.
Regarding engine vacuum: If you connected your gauge to the port for the vacuum advance, there's a good chance it's a timed port, meaning it doesn't see vacuum until the throttle is cracked open.
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Good luck!
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Wow. Why would a person order such a beautiful car with that color combination? One or the other, people!
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I think they were felt.
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There isn't one! I found this out the hard way when I had the rear end refreshed; the pumpkin gasket kept leaking as a result of the pressure. I solved the problem by replacing one of the back cover bolts (up high) with a large brake bleeder screw, which I connected to a long hose and a fuel filter (to keep dirt out) and tied up somewhere under the car. It didn't help that the pumpkin gasket folded funny when the shop reinstalled it. Needless to say, I used RTV and sealed it up, and it hasn't leaked since.
The only conclusion anyone I've ever talked to (including myself) could come up with was that the old axle seals were not lip seals, they were felt, and they must have allowed some pressure in/out.
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Remember, the straight-8 has a metered fitting at the cylinder head. Therefore, the rocker shaft is not under full engine oil pressure, so it's more than a trickle, but not much. If one lifter bled down over the winter, it could take several minutes to fill up.
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On 2/27/2019 at 7:13 PM, John Byrd said:
Pomeroy, we had a black Taurus MT 5, and I still have never seen another one. Folks usually look blank when I mention it, but I really liked that car. It was an 86 I think. Do you know anything about that model ? That is a great story you have posted, thanks for telling it ! Naturally the only pic I have of it has a smear on the side where the emblem was. I was trying to make a different looking center grille plate for the car when I took this pic... didn't turn out too well, ha !
I had a friend in high school whose family drove a medium red MT5 wagon! There couldn't have been many of those...I think I rode in it once, and it was a bit weird to see a "modern" wagon with a manual transmission.
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Of course, your results may vary (i.e. don't blame me if something goes wrong), but I think you'll be OK if you used the Remflex gaskets (as long as everything lined up when you installed it). Do a vacuum test...if the engine pulls 18" or more steadily, it's probably fine.
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Roof rail weatherstrip for '65 GM A-Body Hardtop
in General Discussion
Posted
I've been asking the same questions around my favorite pertinent forums: Does anyone have a good recommendation (that they've tried) for roof rail weatherstrip for '65 A-Bodies (mine's a Skylark)? So far, a few guys have said Steele, and I am aware that they exist and I have used them before, but they are pretty pricey...
My car is a 40-year-old lacquer paint driver that has a wind whistle in that vicinity, and it looks like it's due for a new piece, so if anyone has used something other than Steele and has been satisfied, please chime in. I'm not really trying to be cheap; I just try to keep things in perspective regarding cost v. condition. Thanks!