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Removing the front seat does make the work a lot easier. Also, as Nartin Lum said, disassemble the dash where you can for access. It is a fairly easy job except for access to some areas. I believe the bottom left dash where the guages are is removable on the 49. I have done business with Rhode Island Wire and found their product to be of excelent quality and the people there to be considerate and helpful.

The 2 problems could be related. The carb problem sounds like it may be caused from a stuck open intake valve. The cylinders compression stroke is blowing into the intake manifold and out the carb. Gas will be blown up and out the carb and the "sucking" sound is actually a 'blowing outward' sound. Check the stuck valve and see if it is an intake one then check it's position and see if the valve is in the open position. If it is open than you most likely found both problems.Also don't rule out the you may have a worn out lobe on the cam shaft but lets hope you don't

the stainless pieces on a 48 grille are crimped into place. Have a tool as wide as the stainless piece is and start gently prying it off the grille backing. Rust plus the crimps are holding it in place now. If you curl back the stainless pieces a a little it is easily taped back right with a gentle hammer and a flat dolly

I replaced the manifold gasket on a 1947 Buick 320 ci a couple years ago. It, to, had previously had problems sealing and also suffered some exaust maniflod cracking. I welded up the center section of the exaust manifold using brazing rod with an big tiped oxygen, accetaline torch. Then assembled it all with a copper and filler gasket from Bobs. What I did different was to not tighten down any bolts holding the manifolds both together and to the head till I ran the engine and brought it up to temperture. I Then socked the bolts down tight to the expanded parts. The intake was sucking air making the engine run poor and the exaust leaked here and there but I was able to get it all up to running temp. After it was tightened it ran smoth and quiet and has ever since.

Maked certain the "pull" is absolutely straight. All bolts have to be of even length. If one bolt makes the puller go off to one side it will put a strain on the pull and holding the wheel to the shaft.

Hi Matt. I am gonna send you an email soon as I get a chance.

I assume Matt, that your refering to the ignition switch tumbler. If you are in the "on"-"off" positions the 1947 service manual has the instruction procedure you need. If your in the "lock" position you won't be able to set it up to be removed the regular way. Again the manual can reference exactly how to drill out the tumbler pins so you can then proceed with the ordinary tumbler removal. Another way though would be to take out a door lock tumbler and with the numbers stamped on it you can get a good locksmith with the old reference book to make you a new key that will fit the doors, trunk and the ignition. That is assuming the doors and the ignition came from the same car. This way to you will have the same key for the door locks and ignition switch (and trunk lock)which is the way Buick made it origionally

I have a 47 Roadmaster rear end still attached to the frame. No sure of the gear ratio but If it will help I am sure we can work out a reasonable price. I am in S E Massachusetts

It is a real troublesome weatherstrip to replace. It is stapled to the metal strap and the strap is screwed to the door post. To get the screws out you will need to take out that small bolt holding the door stop in place (the small arm seen in your first picture). 5/16 bolt head as I remember. That will allow the door to open further than normal so you can get at the screws. be careful of the door hitting the front fender if opened to far. 3M makes the whether strip adhesive you will need. Comes in yellow and black, you want the black. Available in most auto supply stores.

I also concur with tank. If you buy a new tank there is no need for sealer. with good gas in the tank we won't live long enough to see it become a problem. Only question is the finish on the outside of the tank. Is it galvanize plated? If not you will have to apply paint. I believe Buick only plated the outside of the tanks when installed?

When an engine bogs down upon aceleration it is almost always one of two things. Auxilary pump in the carb or spark advance in the distributor. Simple test for both. First with engine not running, air cleaner off look into carb venturi (you might need a flashlight) open throttle wide and observe two good shots of raw gas flowing into the venturi. It is the extra gas needed for the engine to excelerate. No shot of gas? Take carb apart clean pump passages and don't loose the checkball and replace the pump plunger. Todays gas is a killer on a lot of these old plungers. For the distributor spark advance you can use a timing light. disconnect the spark advance vacuum line and make sure the timing is in the mark. then rev the engine and observe when and where the centrifical advance moved the spark back. Then connect the vacuum line to the vacuum advance and you should see a noticable difference in the distance the spark advances. If no differnce in advance first make sure you got vacuum to the system and if so buy a replacement advance diaphram.

47 changed over to "crosshairs" on the gunsight hood chrome halfway through the year.

JOHND1956. The picture is awsome once I opened it up, It say it all!!!!!!!

Any hose a hydraulic shop makes up will not go through the door post as the diameter is a lot to big. I used a gas line that is built for the late model high pressure fuel systems. The 47 Buick pump only puts out about 200 lbs pressure so this hose works fine. I bought standard manufactured fittings for each end (barbed nipple on one end and flare fitting on the other end) and clamped the hose down on the fittings using good quality worm gear clamps. I used the same procedure to make the 2 lines that go from the pump to the firewall. The cost is very cheap and it is very workable. Bobs automobilia has those double rubber connectors that go from the door post to into the door.

A great idea Bob Has. I was about to order some tack strips to nail the windlass on my 1947 76C. It also has the taps to hold in the strips. Gonna try some Home Depot pine instead. I got some pieces left over from a house project. Pete mentioned Restoration Specialties and Supply of Windber, PA. I have done business with the in them past and found them to be a reliable and knowlegble company. They have a lot of unusual fasteners and prices are very reasonable

That car is long ago junked. It was in a central Massachusetts junkyard that has since closed. I am by now sure this nice Buick has been transformed into 3 Honda sedans

When the weather breaks we can plan a trip for you over here. I will have the car back in my shop. Right now I a doing the tire rims and other small parts in the shop while the car is stored away. You can email me at pirate3200@aol.com.... Paul

keep this in mind if in future you need it. I have an extra set of the back part of the front seat that came out of a 1947 76C. (the 76C and 56C are the same parts from the firewall back). Heavy as hell so shipping would be more costly than I would charge you for the seat so best to pickup only if you are close by. I am in southeast Massachusetts. You are taking on a big project but well worth the effort. I am well along on a frame off restoration of a 1947 76C and will help you anyway I can with yours.

Definately not a 48, must have had stuck valves and he tried to start it

The BCA Bugle has an advertizer that can do that pipe. I ordered an entire exaust system from them for my 47 Buick and was very happy with the system

does anyone reading this post have a parts book that can tell us if a 41-42 speedometer is the same as a 47?

Hi Rick,,,I would be interested in buying if this the same speedometer that is in a 1947 and the chrome ring free of pits. In case you ever nooed them, Bobs automobilia sells the odometer wheel numbers stickers for 40 to 48 Buicks

a lot of hard to find trim parts on a 1946 to 1948 models 56C and 76C. Only basic difference in the two models (56C and 76C)is the length of hood, front fenders and other nose parts. Always people looking for some of the trim pieces. Buy the car, take off the parts that you need and then make it known in here that you have some parts available and you will get a lot of your money back. Hell, you will probably sell me a few things. I am restoring a 1947 76C

Get in touch with Mike Stemen the BCA tech rep for 46 to 48 Buicks. I got a restorable 47 76c from him and he had already included the floor pan pieces needed from another car. I am thinking that floor pans are basically the same in other models. Mike will have the answer for you. Your chances of finding a 47 convertible with good floor pans are slim to none. Can you tell me where the 47 is that you found was rusty?

I am thinking this is not a car to restore but clean it up, make it roadable and have a wonderful origional.