pirate

Faust. I am restoring a 1947 76C Roadmaster convertible and have a list of parts needed. a lot of stuff the same on 1948 76S I am in Wareham Ma that is close to you. I can bring tools and cash to the car and we can see what we can do. email me at pirate3200@aol.com

Faust. you have a PM

Green mountain Parts made me a set of rockers for my 1947 76C. the samwe panels you want. A good job and I recomend them.

I could still use this fender. I hate to think I have to break out the hammers again and attempt, again to bring the one I have back to shape. It is in such bad condition. I was at Carlise and just got back. Always meet greatpeople there.Place was fun as usual but not much to be had for the older Buicks.

Any welder that is proficient with a gas welder and familiar with brazing cast iron can do the manifld good. I have welded many manifolds over the years and recently my 47 buick center section

I am getting back to the restoration. The fender I have is in such bad shape it would be better to get another. It will be the same fender for 46 - 48 Buicks models 56C , 76C, 56S and 76S. NOS or in very good condition only. You can email me at Pirate3200@aol.com..... Thanks, Paul

Do the stainless yourself. Common sense work, not difficult at all. A good electric motor such as a washing machine motor and the buffer stuff from eastwood. com and you are ready to go. Dents are another thing and take a bit of practice and patience but just to polish stainless is a simple process.

A rolling Arizona frame. Surface rust only, virtually no pits. It still shows origional paint in a few areas. Located in Massachusetts. $500. To see pictures Pirate3200@aol.com

not exactly the cold weather in Manatoba but us here in the NE are damn cold now. It is 12 degrees in our little town in Massachusetts. A shame that Buick fell victim to a poor driver and icy roads. Not a hard fix tho.

A good machine shop like Egge will take your rods and machine them to accept inserts for you. They wil also do a poured bearing for about the same price. I opted for the poured bearing when I rebuilt my 320 engine. $65 each was the price a couple years ago if I remember right.

I have had no problems with Kanter or Bobs. If Kanter is cheaper, go with them.

Jim.... I did well with PPG paints with getting the right color for my 47 Buick. The Jobber that mixes and sells the paint contacted PPG's library and got the mixing codes. I bought a pint at first and made sure I was happy before buying enough to paint the whole car. I believe ppg.com will get you a list of the paint jobbers in your area. PPG makes excellent quality paint but if you are doing a base, clear system use the "2002" clear for a deep and hard shine.

Fits 1946, 1947, 1948 model 76c. Should fit other models. The convertible frame has some parts of it doubled up for extra strength. This is way to good a frame to let it go through a New England winter exposed to the elements. It came from Arizona and only suffers some light surface rust. Virtually no pits showing. Suspension, steering linkage and rear end is still on the frame. $500 takes it away. Southeast Massachusetts. Email pirate3200@aol.com . Thanks.. Paul

I am restoring a 1947 convertible and can use some trim parts ETC. I am also in red sox area. Is the car yours and you are parting it out? Can you tell me where it is? Can I bring my tools and see what I can buy from it? Please email me at pirate3200@aol.com Thank you.......... Paul

John... Mikes number is 845 985 7146. I bought my 47 Roadmaster conv from him. Tell him I said HI...... Paul

John. Mike Steman, the BCA tech adviser for 46- 47 -48 has a restored 48 Roadmaster convertible so he may be able to help. In the future I may ask you to sell those patterns to do my own 47 roadmaster Conv trunk. A long way from that part of the restoration right now.

PPG products are like most suppliers, they have the good stuff and they have the cheap stuff. I have used the PPG 2002 clear and found it very superior to other brands of clear. A little more expensive and more work to sand and buff tho.

Yes, clear coat can be sanded very well but wait at least a week for the clear to cure. For aplying more clear use no coarser paper than 400 grit but 600 grit will asure no sanding marks in the finish. Use wet-dry paper and mix a little dish soap and water together and and continuously keeping the paper dipped in this water. Use a block on the paper where the surfaces are flat enough to accept the block. Paint supply stores supply a slightly flexable block that works good. I hope you have put on at the very least, 2 coats of clear. I can't stress the importance to mush about sanding through the clear. Be careful and patient. If you sand thru the clear and into the base, then you have to re-aply more base to the entire panel or you will have a "funny" color spot where you sanded into the base. wash and rinse the car good after you are done.

ya, I can't imagine a doctor using that thing in 1928. :-) We all post wrong on occasion I guess

Jim... I sent you an email

where are you located?

It definately sounds like the engine has to come apart again. But before doing so do this. With the engine running short out the spark on each cylinder and while engine is in the mode that makes the knock. You will find that when the troubled cylinder is shorted out the noise will either be gone or noticable different in sound. This way when you tear down the engine you will know where the problem is. It looks to me to be a rod bearing problem but difficult to really know over a computer.

It seems to me that all GS400s had the t400 trans. Am I right? This car has the 2 speed. I also sent him a note. To much deception going on in old cars lately.

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