Mark Shaw

My biggest D'oh moment was when I did a favor for a friend who promised to drive a bride and groom from their wedding to their reception. Although I never do weddings, my buddy was called out of town, so I agreed to do it. I got my 13 Buick touring car all gassed up, shined up, lubed, etc. I dressed up in my black suit, bow tie, and bowler hat. Trailered the car to the wedding, unloaded, & parked in front waiting for the newlyweds to go for a ride. I started the car with no problem, pulled away, and started to climb the hill two blocks away and the car just sputtered, and bucked all the way up the hill. It kept running badly almost all the way to the reception and just had no power. About a block away from our destination, I discovered that I had not advanced the spark after I started the car! So, I went around the block a couple of times to show the newlyweds and everyone already at the reception that the old girl really could run nice.

Will a 36 Buick work?

Barry, Just awesome! Thanks for posting the long process; I'm glad you got it all fixed and together again.

Thanks Matt, if you are not yet getting our PWD newsletter, please let me know.

I use Autolite 3077 in my older cars.

It is a two barrel Stromberg EE1

Not just anybody can repair them, but I believe it can be done.

I agree. I especially liked the "3,000 Miles On 5 Out of 8 Cylinders" article. Paul & Charles Markland really had an adventure! I am so glad the car was rebuilt to continue a very interesting life on the road again.

These clocks wre common on late teens and early 20's cars. Post a photo and we may be able to zero in on a date.

I had the same problem on my 31 sedan. Check to make sure the bearing journal is getting oil. The bearing journal on the crankshaft may look OK, but is most likely tapered on one or both sides. This will quickly damage the replacement rod babbitt. I too tried to get by with a rod from my spare engine. This option may last long enough to get through the wedding, but you really need to even up the bearing journal and make sure the babbitt in the rod is only .0015 larger than the crankshaft. I bought a special tool to correct my crankshaft problem without removing it from the car. It did work to even up the journal, but it also reduced the diameter of the journal enough to require re-babbitting the rod. Let me know if you want to borrow this tool. Send me an email so I can send you some photos. durcodude@comcast.net

Matt, Great articles! We will be glad to put a link in our next PWD newsletter so more can benefit from your advice. Please feel free to send other articles for our newsletter. We can always use more. Thanks,

Cross reference to other GM makes and try: http://www.rustrepair.com/

Give me the make and part number of what is currently in it and I will check it for you. I run Autolite 3077 in both of my older Buicks. 14mm thread, 19mm(3/4") reach, 13/16" hex, extra projected tip, .044" gap They are the right thread, length, and are a hot plug that does not foul. You might try a John Deere tractor store where they stock Champion plugs for old tractors.

Bikes and motorcycles too.

Try this cross reference. http://www.sparkplugs.com/default.asp

PB Blaster is good stuff, but you may have to heat it a bit to get it to let go. Take your time & let it soak for a few days. I have always wanted to use an old Buick hood for a canopy over my shop door.

Looks like a great destination for a Prewar tour! Thanks for posting the photos Derek.

The door jam does not look like my 15 Buick model C25. Buick used half round rubber door stops inset into the door jam. Yours does not have these. And the photos of the dash and cowl do not look like Buick to me. Good luck,

I suggest you keep the top and bottom tanks and replace the core rather than build everything from scratch.

Please send me a photo of what you need. Is it a gear pump or centrifugal? durcodude@comcast.net

I use RTV sealant on oil pans, valve covers & water jacket gaskets. Make sure the pan flange is flat & apply sealant only on the pan. Install it with the fasteners a half turn less than tight until it dries. Then tighten the fasteners another half turn to seal it without distorting the pan flange. When the pan is removed later, the gasket should come off with the pan. Cork valve cover gaskets should be sealed to the head and not the cover. Again, make sure the cover flanges are flat and apply the sealant to the gasket to "glue it" to the head in the same process as above. This will provide a lip to keep oil from running down the side of the engine when the covers are removed. Coat both sides of gaskets that seal water jacket components.

This reminds me of the "patent medicines" sold in the old west. In older cars with non-pressurized cooling systems, plain water is the best coolant. Only "water pump lubricant additive" makes sense to minimize corrosion and packing wear. Anti-freeze and special "cooler coolants" don't work better than plain water in low pressure cooling systems. I agree with the previous posts for newer cars.

I am sure I have a spare, but I just had knee surgury this morning and cannot get to my shop for awhile. Meanwhile, you might try using a torch to modify the replacement spring to fit.

I suggest you disconnect the pump from the carb. and crank the engine to see how much gas you can pump into a can. If it is pumping gas, your problem is heat. The best solution for a hot gas problem is a bypass line back to the tank to keep cool gas going to the carb. Put a tee behind the carb. & connect the fuel line to the end of the tee. Put a pressure regulator on the side outlet of the tee and run a return line back to the tank. This will keep cool gas running to the carb.

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