eric_b_1937

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About eric_b_1937

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  1. 1935 sr 40 Front brake drums $60 ea. L/R Front Brake backing plates & shoes $50 L/R Front Shocks $60 ea. Steering Column $100 Brake cross shaft $15 Torque Tube Rear & Brakes $150 1937 sr 80/90 Locking Door handle P/N 4078280 $200.00 1939 door handles $20 ea Please Send Private Message and email address for photographs. Thank You<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  2. GM was in the train design business at the same time of these ornament designs, interesting theory Brian. My interpretations of the Buick ornamental hood sculptures. 1936 Art Deco interpretation of flying goddess 1937 Art Deco interpretation of 1936 flying goddess but moving faster and lying down 1938 Aerodynamic Train 1939 Air ship or rocket 1940 Aerodynamic Train 1941 Aerodynamic Train 1942 Rocket 1942 Airplane Does anyone know the name of the Sculptor? It appears to me that the early 1930's ornaments had a different sculptor than the late 1930's and post 1945 seems more like 1936-1942.
  3. Buy a 41 Buick Manual and it describes this complicated system in great detail. The photo's appear that the damper valves are missing. If so then you might need to modify to prevent the carburetor heat from being on all the time. You will need to make or modify you accelerator pedal firewall linkage since the 41 link is different. The threaded rods that hold up the air cleaner appear to be missing. Make sure you have all the parts before you move to install. The Buick-Y job has the dual intake so I see this as a used car period modification and perfectly acceptable for your custom car. I owned a 1935 engine sr-40 that had a dual carburetor on it so it should work on a 1936 too.
  4. Has anyone on this forum done a tear down of a singing 36/37/38 gearbox and documented any wear? Or is it really an oil issue? My gearbox has a slight singing in first gear and neutral but goes away when clutch is pressed.
  5. My car had an up front oil leak dripping off the A-arm and thru the radiator drain hole and it originated from the Front Shock absorbers. Nice Car.
  6. There are several 37 Buick owners in Colorado and if you ask on this message board they may give you a ride in their restored car. You will then see that there is really no need in separating the old car from its motor. Sealed beam headlights? This vehicle must have been driven in the last 40 years. That motor may only need a tune up. Plus the 320 will do 100 mph how fast do you want to go?
  7. The running boards are stamped sheet metal and curve up towards the body they are covered with vulcanized rubber. There is not a rubber seal between the running board and body. It looks like a Stromberg Aerobat carburetor which is the better carburetor and if properly restored it should have enough adjustment to perform at a higher altitude. These cars were completely tested when new and sold in Mountainous regions. Timing can be easily adjusted by turning the distributor and looking at the fly wheel timing mark located at the bell housing on the right side of the engine. Check your tie rod ends for wear and oil in the steering box. The air cleaner should be placed with the oil bath towards the radiator fan. The oil bath is missing from your photograph. Engine appears to have been repainted so possibly restored when the rest of the car was repainted. If anything is missing this will be a more difficult to find parts for than a 67 Mustang. Have fun 37-38 Buicks are great driving cars.
  8. I have no problem driving a 30's vintage car in the summer with no AC. The car is designed with good air flow and if you drink your water and have no medical problems you should be fine. You might try it for a season before doing a AC conversion. I would try the Artic Air style portable air conditioner first as I think you are suggesting and check the amperage and voltage requirements.
  9. 1930's Buick's have a few plastic knobs and some rubber components but look at a car today and it made of a large percentage of polymer parts. As 1970's and 1980's car's transition into the antique car category, then the 3d printers will become more relevant, because of the large quantities of plastic parts. A person might not want to invest in injection molding dies for a couple parts. Some day a vat of molten metal will be turned into a 3d printer.
  10. Great Job! I Color sanded my car the same way and it looks great now. If you have any deep scratches or rock chips touch them up using a fine paint brush and build up the paint to the surface level then color sand the panel and most will disappear.
  11. Put all of the parts into sub assemblies and catalog what you have to make sure you are not missing anything. This is a good point to test drive the chassis, if there is anything wrong then fix it at this stage. It could be an excellent car when completed.
  12. Good Question. I have seen various B-2 Bolts on my 1937 Buick and they look original to the car. I don't know what the marking means and mine might have been placed in the wrong locations on reassembly.
  13. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0pt 5.4pt 0pt 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0pt; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> Piston aircraft and Antique cars have a lot of similar problems with fuel. If an aircraft owner fly’s off a grass strip 30 miles from any airport he has a real problem getting fuel. If that airport stops serving fuel then the problem gets even bigger. He will then go to the local gas station and refine the fuel in order to operate the aircraft safely and be within regulations. Antique car’s do not have a non alcohol fuel regulation because if the carburetor ices, or vapor locks, you can pull over to the side of the road. An aircraft can crash in the same situation. Most of the general aviation fleet utilizes engines designed over 50 years ago which were designed to use derivatives of the same fuel supplied to the cars. If refiners decide they do not want to produce aviation 100LL fuel then most general aviation aircraft will retire. If the fuel used in antique car’s is increased to greater than 15% alcohol. A large percentage of the Antique car fleet will be retired due to unreliability. So I see a need for this product but product price is a problem, if it was harbor freight special for under $200 then I could afford to buy it and fill with fuel. If you can mass market it to the collector car world then it will reduce the cost to the aviation industry which really needs a break and is in more danger of retirement than antique cars. But my biggest concern is how to know what octane rating the fuel is after refinement, since ethanol/Alcohol is a major anti knock agent and other knock agents have been removed from current fuels. If you have an octane test kit along with the refine apparatus then it will be better to use for a car or aircraft owner. Another problem is a lot of antique car owners do not know what type of fuel their vehicle was designed for. A table with year ranges and refinery octane ratings would be useful. Since a batch of low octane refined fuel from the apparatus may work great for a 1930’s and older car, ok for a 40’s to 50’s car and not good for a 60’s-70’s car.
  14. The 1937 Buick did not come with turn signals. However in the manual it states that you can out run most drivers. So at night or on a cold day when hand signals will not work, then you were to out run the car behind you then turn. Or brake and give way to anyone making a left turn in front of you. The traffic density was much lower then as well. I got honked at a lot for using hand signals in modern traffic, people think you are waving, so I installed turn signals. Check the turn signal wires and diagram again. Check the grounding of all lights, You can also use dual filament bulbs and sockets on the rear.
  15. Check for exhaust manifold and pipe leaks. It is common to have some leakage around the damper valve pivot hole. Some smell may come from the crank case ventilation, modern cars vent this back into the intake system. Check your firewall and fill all holes with rubber grommets and sealant. Check the clutch brake and accelerator pedals for firewall seals. Some exposure to Carbon monoxide while sitting in traffic with the windows down is unavoidable.