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eric_b_1937

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About eric_b_1937

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  1. 1935 sr 40 Front brake drums $60 ea. L/R Front Brake backing plates & shoes $50 L/R Front Shocks $60 ea. Steering Column $100 Brake cross shaft $15 Torque Tube Rear & Brakes $150 1937 sr 80/90 Locking Door handle P/N 4078280 $200.00 1939 door handles $20 ea Please Send Private Message and email address for photographs. Thank You<!-- google_ad_section_end -->
  2. GM was in the train design business at the same time of these ornament designs, interesting theory Brian. My interpretations of the Buick ornamental hood sculptures. 1936 Art Deco interpretation of flying goddess 1937 Art Deco interpretation of 1936 flying goddess but moving faster and lying down 1938 Aerodynamic Train 1939 Air ship or rocket 1940 Aerodynamic Train 1941 Aerodynamic Train 1942 Rocket 1942 Airplane Does anyone know the name of the Sculptor? It appears to me that the early 1930's ornaments had a different sculptor than the late 1930's and post 1945 seems more like 1936-1942.
  3. Buy a 41 Buick Manual and it describes this complicated system in great detail. The photo's appear that the damper valves are missing. If so then you might need to modify to prevent the carburetor heat from being on all the time. You will need to make or modify you accelerator pedal firewall linkage since the 41 link is different. The threaded rods that hold up the air cleaner appear to be missing. Make sure you have all the parts before you move to install. The Buick-Y job has the dual intake so I see this as a used car period modification and perfectly acceptable for your custom car. I o
  4. Has anyone on this forum done a tear down of a singing 36/37/38 gearbox and documented any wear? Or is it really an oil issue? My gearbox has a slight singing in first gear and neutral but goes away when clutch is pressed.
  5. My car had an up front oil leak dripping off the A-arm and thru the radiator drain hole and it originated from the Front Shock absorbers. Nice Car.
  6. There are several 37 Buick owners in Colorado and if you ask on this message board they may give you a ride in their restored car. You will then see that there is really no need in separating the old car from its motor. Sealed beam headlights? This vehicle must have been driven in the last 40 years. That motor may only need a tune up. Plus the 320 will do 100 mph how fast do you want to go?
  7. The running boards are stamped sheet metal and curve up towards the body they are covered with vulcanized rubber. There is not a rubber seal between the running board and body. It looks like a Stromberg Aerobat carburetor which is the better carburetor and if properly restored it should have enough adjustment to perform at a higher altitude. These cars were completely tested when new and sold in Mountainous regions. Timing can be easily adjusted by turning the distributor and looking at the fly wheel timing mark located at the bell housing on the right side of the engine. Check your tie
  8. I have no problem driving a 30's vintage car in the summer with no AC. The car is designed with good air flow and if you drink your water and have no medical problems you should be fine. You might try it for a season before doing a AC conversion. I would try the Artic Air style portable air conditioner first as I think you are suggesting and check the amperage and voltage requirements.
  9. 1930's Buick's have a few plastic knobs and some rubber components but look at a car today and it made of a large percentage of polymer parts. As 1970's and 1980's car's transition into the antique car category, then the 3d printers will become more relevant, because of the large quantities of plastic parts. A person might not want to invest in injection molding dies for a couple parts. Some day a vat of molten metal will be turned into a 3d printer.
  10. Great Job! I Color sanded my car the same way and it looks great now. If you have any deep scratches or rock chips touch them up using a fine paint brush and build up the paint to the surface level then color sand the panel and most will disappear.
  11. Put all of the parts into sub assemblies and catalog what you have to make sure you are not missing anything. This is a good point to test drive the chassis, if there is anything wrong then fix it at this stage. It could be an excellent car when completed.
  12. Good Question. I have seen various B-2 Bolts on my 1937 Buick and they look original to the car. I don't know what the marking means and mine might have been placed in the wrong locations on reassembly.
  13. <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w:DontGrowAutofit/> </w:C
  14. The 1937 Buick did not come with turn signals. However in the manual it states that you can out run most drivers. So at night or on a cold day when hand signals will not work, then you were to out run the car behind you then turn. Or brake and give way to anyone making a left turn in front of you. The traffic density was much lower then as well. I got honked at a lot for using hand signals in modern traffic, people think you are waving, so I installed turn signals. Check the turn signal wires and diagram again. Check the grounding of all lights, You can also use dual filament bulbs and socket
  15. Check for exhaust manifold and pipe leaks. It is common to have some leakage around the damper valve pivot hole. Some smell may come from the crank case ventilation, modern cars vent this back into the intake system. Check your firewall and fill all holes with rubber grommets and sealant. Check the clutch brake and accelerator pedals for firewall seals. Some exposure to Carbon monoxide while sitting in traffic with the windows down is unavoidable.
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