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Posts posted by hchris

  1. 6 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:

    Hey guys so about a month ago I replaced the head gasket on my 1949 Chrysler windsor, yesterday as i tried to start it there was antifreeze shooting up thru the carb, so i took the carb off and there was antifreeze in the headers, there was no water in the oil or anything and looked ok. Not sure as to why there is antifreeze in the headers tho. Any suggestions? 



    Take the manifold off again and put sealant on the retaining bolts, some of them go into the water jacket.

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  2. 12 hours ago, Bloo said:

    That might not be 100% accurate, I can't really see enough of the car to tell. I know I have seen side trim like that on a USA (Plymouth) model, but the only pics I can find like that are 1962 Australian Chrysler Valiants. Any Valiant made from 1960-1962 would have had that roofline.


    Edit: It's a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 if it is the USA model. If it's Aussie or built somewhere else, all bets are off...






    Have a look at some of the Australian Chrysler websites: built by Chrysler down here, they sold very well. 


    Unlike the US product where this body style was marketed for both Plymouth and Dodge variants, downunder they were only sold as Chrysler Valiant.   

    • Like 1
  3. Think I would be looking at the light switch, brake / tail and headlights are usually wired independently, very unusual to have headlights fused; more likely to be a resetable  breaker in the headlamp switch; unless of course we are talking prewar.

  4. OK , well how about knocking the timing back a few degrees to set say 16" vacuum as suggested by Beemon, then see how it runs.


    Another factor could be the carb float setting too high, this will make it run a little richer and at idle you may not get enough adjustment out of the mixture screws.


    But its important that you try these things one at a time to see what effect they have.

  5. Perhaps it might be easier if you were to tell us what make of car it is,  someone may then respond with a wiring diagram.


    The answer to your first question is yes, some coils have a built-in ballast reistor, some have an  external resistor. 

  6. 1 hour ago, Sactownog said:

    I need to remove my steering box and shaft. I need to rebuild it. 


    I am thinking I need to take off the shaft 1st. the top of the gear box looks like the shaft has a LARGE nut that will require a 16" crescent wrench to unscrew then the shaft will pull out. IS THIS CORRECT? 


    2nd, I will remove 4 bolts from the frame and the steering gear box will come off of the frame. 


    can someone tell me if this is the correct steps to remove driving shaft and gear box OR DOES IT COME OUT AS 1 WHOLE UNIT?



    First you need to disconnect the drop arm from the tie rod, then the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis. I find then its easiest to remove the steering wheel and drag the whole lot up through the floor (having of course removed the floor boards/panels). Maybe remove the steering wheel first rather than later, oh and there will be wires running down the inside of the steering column that need to be disconnected.

  7. 5 minutes ago, telriv said:


    With that being said it ONLY gives you a basis & you fine tune, advance or retard, as nec. to get the performance, mileage or pinging to where you feel most comfortable.




    I thought the bushings I sent mostly solved your problem???



    The whole point of using the vac guage is to fine tune,  get the basic settings with the timing light then use the vac guage to adjust timing and mixtures to obtain the highest vac reading, then back timing off to lower your highest vac reading an inch or two. Follow up with a road test and listen for pinging, if you encounter pinging back off timing in small increments until it stops.


    • Like 1
  8. 6 hours ago, offdensen said:

    So I wanted to tune my carb and adjust timing using a vacuum gauge. I saw a few videos of people doing this on old Corvettes and mustang's so I thought I would try it since I have a vacuum gauge. 


    I read though that I need to use manifold vacuum,  and that the 63 with stock carburetor only has ported vacuum. Is there a way to do this on a 63 or is the ported vacuum too unreliable? If I did this which vacuum source would I use? (Advance port, port behind carb to PVC, port on the manifold that leads to brake booster,ect.)


    To note I have always just tuned it to the smoothest idle using a tachometer and using the specs in the book, but using a vacuum gauge has intrigued me.  


    You need to use a vac source direct from the manifold, taking a vac line off the carb wont do it for you as the vac source is usually plumbed in above the throttle plate.


    Alternative sources like the brake booster port or PCV manifold connector are fine ie any port that taps straight into the inlet manifold can be used.(make sure you have an airtight connection)


    The benefit of vac tuning is that you get to see when the engine is running at best, as opposed to manufacturers figures, which are a good starting point but dont make allowances for todays fuels, engine wear etc. all of which can affect engine performance.


    And as Rivman says, when you get to the highest vac reading back off an inch or so of manifold pressure before locking everything in place, this avoids potential pinging.

    • Like 2
  9. Whilst I wouldnt question your reasoning on the necessity of a vac amplifier, in the real world a long hill or even a strong headwind at large throttle openings, is a not uncommon reason for a vac tank not being able to keep up with engine demands. Most of us would probably never encounter this problem as the majority of our motoring is at city speeds on the straight and level; commercial vehicles were a different matter with loads and distances significantly greater often requiring the fitment of a booster.

  10. 12 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

    I always thought the step bore cylinder was an attempt to even up braking effort on front and rear shoe. The trailing shoe does much less work on our fixed anchor simplex system. This is from Wikipedia:

    image.png.65ca34b7de723115d71854a79f1ebddd.pngBy putting a larger cylinder on the trailing shoe, the effort  from the shoes can be evened up a little. A 1-1/4 to 1-3/8" diameter increase makes a 21% increase in the force applied to the rear shoe. This is hardly "not much effect" as people have been advised.


    Correct, I was over simpliying things in an attempt to highlight that the cylinders were step bored, there is in fact a whole lot more to the science of this feature but I didnt think it was relevant to the topic. 

    Mea Culpa.


  11. Been down this road recently with my 34 CB Chrysler, the only viable option was a resleeve.


    Thing to note however, as well as the mount plate spacing problem,  the rear cylinders are step bored ie smaller at one end of the cylinder than the other, Chrysler`s logic to rear lockup prevention (would`nt be surprised if yours were the same)


    Our brake guru machinist advised that the amount of difference this would make in a slam stop would be insignificant, hence they were resleeved parallel and so far all is well.


    I too get annoyed when you ask a question and don`t get an answer, but you do get a heap of off topic advice.

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  12. As to finding the timing marks, can you access the front of the flywheel via a splash cover at the bottom of the bell housing ? or perhaps remove the starter motor for a better view, this would at least allow you to mark them for better visibility.


    Of course this wouldnt solve the problem if the flywheel has been fitted incorrectly.


    Which means you are left with how to verify the timing, painful as it may seem I would be removing the valve cover/s and slowly turning the engine by hand (two pairs of hands might be better) to get #1 at tdc, verifiable by watching #6 valves as they begin to rock, ie at the point where #6 inlet just begins to open and #6 exhaust is closing you would be at tdc #1 within a degre or two.


    At this point you should hopefully see the distributor rotor pointing to #1 ignition lead and the points just opening, you might also chalk a mark on the  crank pulley to help bettter with tuning or further fault finding.


    In all of this if it sounds like I'm telling you how to suck eggs, then ignore the above.?

  13. Ok, so if the distributor is suspect try a vac guage as Ben suggested; you are aiming for a steady 18 - 20 inches at idle to start with, move the distributor back or forth to achieve this. If you can get a steady idle reading then take the revs up and down and watch for steady vac changes, hesitation or erratic readings will need investigating, plenty of good info for deciphering faults on the net.


    I find the vac guage a far more useful tool in tuning than religious adherance  to timing marks etc. with changes in fuel and so on, the original settings aren't necessarily the best for our engines anymore.

    • Like 3
  14. The clicking noise just prior to stalling could well be the generator control relay dropping in and out as the revs fall off, from memory this is mounted on the engine bay bulkhead which acts as a sound board.



    Popping through the manifold and lack of compression in #6 would probably be a burnt valve, you could get lucky with adjustment.


    Sounds like you need a copy of the wiring system for the electrical stuff, cars of this era aren't all that complicated,  get a copy and blow it up and trace the various circuits. 


    Some of your symptoms sound like poor earthing, the dip switch probably has some crusty or loose connections.


    Gas guage coulld just be bad earth on the sender unit at the tank, or pull it and clean the wiper arm.

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