hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. The clicking noise just prior to stalling could well be the generator control relay dropping in and out as the revs fall off, from memory this is mounted on the engine bay bulkhead which acts as a sound board.

     

     

    Popping through the manifold and lack of compression in #6 would probably be a burnt valve, you could get lucky with adjustment.

     

    Sounds like you need a copy of the wiring system for the electrical stuff, cars of this era aren't all that complicated,  get a copy and blow it up and trace the various circuits. 

     

    Some of your symptoms sound like poor earthing, the dip switch probably has some crusty or loose connections.

     

    Gas guage coulld just be bad earth on the sender unit at the tank, or pull it and clean the wiper arm.


  2. 40 minutes ago, Spinneyhill said:

    Including checking the brake adjustment at each wheel. You can never get a pedal if the shoes don't touch the drum somewhere.

     

    Yes, brake shoe adjustment is paramount with these brakes, absolutely hopeless if you haven't gone through the correct procedure to set the clearances. Dont know how many times I've seen postings starting with "cant get a pedal".


  3. 1 minute ago, Parrish said:

    Thank you kindly for contributing.  Your information was helpful and saved me from making a huge mistake.

    What are your plans for that 34 pictured? 

     

    Its been a work in progress for many years, not sure what the end result will be.

     

    It's actually a CB, the longer wheel base version of the CA, also I'm living downunder so it's RHD and there's a number of differences including, you might notice, the exhaust manifold which has to fit around the steering column.


  4. Certainly start with the previous information, as 90 years on most of the worm gears are well and truly worn out. 

     

    Drag links and idler arm have spring loaded ball and cup arrangements at each end, and generally they are badly worn giving lots of free play, so best to start first with the box and work out towards the ends. 

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  5. 4 hours ago, Parrish said:

    Fellas, fellas!  FOCUS!  While I really enjoy the history lesson and find the origins of the word "tarmac" fascinating,  the problem at hand is the difference/s, if any, between the 241.6 cid 6 cyl of 1934 and the 241.5 cid 6 cyl of 1935 in the Chrylser line up.  What was behind the change?  Does anyone know or care to offer speculation?  It seems to me that Chrysler Corp was terribly inefficient with their part development/sharing during those depression years and I can't help wondering why.

     

    Have a look at my response to your buy / sell request

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  6. On 8/20/2018 at 6:00 AM, Parrish said:

    Need a 241.6 cid 6cyl motor or even a 241.5 cid 6cyl motor for parts.  Looking for intake and exhaust manifolds to get the old girl back on the macadam.

    241.6 was for 1934 only and 241.5 came with the 1935's and stayed around until 1946.  Can you help.  Present exhaust is badly cracked.

     

    Up to 1934 Chrysler (assuming this is what you are looking at) used what is known as a "partial water jacket" block which is quite different to the 39 "C22" shown in the photo, significantly the exhaust manifolds were very different, as the down pipe came from the middle of the manifold as opposed to the rear of manifold  as on the "C22".

     

    The variation between the blocks makes for different engine mounts, bell housing / transmission mounts, starter motor, amongst other things. You can play mix and match, but, if you are looking to install a later engine into  34 or earlier Chrysler products its not a straightforward job.

    IMG00061.JPG

    IMG00059.JPG

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  7. Have you looked on the outer face of the left front chassis rail in the vicinity of the spring hangars, often the serial (vin) number was stamped into the chassis, I have also seen them on some models further back on the chassis adjacent the cowl area.


  8. 4 hours ago, frank29u said:

    A bit late to this party, but here is my latest experience.  Drove 1200 miles round trip to Detroit Jul 24 - 30, 2 days out, 2 back in my 1929U Plymouth.  My start-up pressure was about 30 and dropped to about 25 when hot with Shell Rotella 30.

     

    My Kingston vac tank is supplied from the OIL-VAC pump.  Only issue I had was with the internal corks sliding up the shaft.  This allowed gas to be sucked into the oil causing a decrease in oil pressure, naturally.  Never noticed any decrease in pressure when I've run out of gas.

     

    Can I just elaborate on the relationship of oil vac pumps with regards to oil pressure and gas, I think some people may have the wrong end of the stick.

     

    When you have a  vacuum tank with the oil pump being the vacuum source, as opposed to manifold pressure, there is the probability that losing oil pressure will also mean losing vacuum. If you lose vacuum then you lose the ability to draw fuel from the tank, eventually the vac tank will run dry and consequently the engine will quit, how long this will take is debatable.

     

    So in essence, the amount of oil pressure is not influenced in any way by the vac tank, unless of course you have the situation of fuel contaminating the oil.


  9. 1 hour ago, 28 Chrysler said:

    This should be in the technical section.

    You did not state if you have a dropping resistor hooked up to the coil for the rum position,.

    You may have a shorted coil, many of the new coils from overseas have come come pre-shorted.

     

    Nevertheless if the points are closed it will get hot.


  10. Most any coil will get hot after that time, particularly if the distributor points are closed, not a good practice to be doing this. ?

     

    In short, you have the battery current flowing through the coil direct to earth and the coil will heat up just like the old bar type electric radiators. 


  11. 16 hours ago, PFitz said:

     No, I don't. They don't make them simply because the tapered surfaces were not meant to use a modern lip seal. 

     

    However where a modern lip seal was used in later manufacture, the seal manufacturers offer a wide range of sleeve sizes to press onto the contact surface to cover the groove worn by the previous lip seal's contact edges when replacing it. You can order them through a bearing and seal supplier.  

     

    Here ya go,...    

    http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/index.html 

    https://www.timken.com/products/timken-mechanical-power-transmission-products/seals/redi-sleeves/

     

    With a leather or felt seal, grit imbeds into the fibers and does not get rubbed between it and the contact surface with force the way the firmer surface of a lip seal will. Much like the far softer surface of babbitt bearings helps protect and extend the  service life of crankshaft  journals from the grinding action of wear particles. Read the second paragraph of the SKF link to understand what happens with road, and/or, brake dust and a lip seal.

     

    Some wheels don't need to be reinvented when their proper function is understood.

     

    Paul

     

    Thanks, yes more than familiar with bearings wear, tear materials etc.

     

    My original response was, what to do when a tapered surface is worn beyond the ability for a tapered surface seal (be it modern or otherwise) to do the job. As others have suggested, turning the surface to a parallel profile or welding said surface and re machining seem to be the only viable alternatives.


  12. 14 hours ago, PFitz said:

    There rarely is any need to put in a modern lip seal with a tapered rubbing surface. Yes, figuring out where on the taper it contacts so you can get a lip seal the right size is tough. And modern lip seals won't last as long as the original leather or felt seals do.  The originals have afar greater contact width so the force per square area is less. Plus, felt and leather hold oil to better self lubricate and they work better at excluding dust in the contact area so they wear the contact surface far less over the same miles traveled than a modern lip seal will.

     

    But, when dust gets in under the edges of a lip seal by mixing with the oil there, it becomes a grinding paste. Within a few thousand miles it will not only wear the very thin contact edge of a lip seal, it will also grind a groove in the contact surface. That's why they also sell press-on repair sleeves for standard sized lip seal contact areas.  

     

    As I mentioned above, you can remove the leather or felt seal from it's sheet metal retainer, wash it in solvent such as lacquer thinner, and then place strips of paper down inside the retainers to shim the leather/felt back to an original  snug fit. Then it's good for another lifetime or two.

     

    Paul

     

    So you know of a source for a sleeve to fit a tapered surface ?? 


  13. On 8/10/2018 at 1:58 AM, 1937P4 said:

    The Rear brake drum oil seal surface on my 1937 Plymouth is tapered 1/16" over 13/16 length. Both drums are this way. Is there a reason for this?  Thanks and God Bless

    sealsurface2.jpg

     

    Correct, this is how they were made. There is a predetermined end float on the axle and I guess the taper alowed for side movement within the seal.

     

    Like your hubs, 80 years on most have wear/grooves in the seal areas, currently working on a solution to turn hubs down parallel and adapt a modern seal to fit the old outer seal case, have had limited success retro fitting a modern seal to work on the tapered surface but with too much wear its only been a short term fix.


  14. Well done, great initiative on proofing the vac system. My only query is the apparent short time interval in which the vacuum appears to be drawing fuel, although I dont have anything to measure it by, I`m thinking that the inner tank would hold about a pint ?? and it would take a little longer to fill  before it dumps.

     

    The acid test of course is on the road, and particularly on a long steady climb with lots of throttle and minimal vacuum; keep us posted I`m keen to see how it behaves on a lengthy run.


  15. Quick check to see if its drawing fuel when installed, put your hand on the brass fitting or pipe on the fuel inlet side, you will feel it go cold as fuel passes through into the inner tank; when the inner vent valve opens fuel flow will stop and you will feel a noticeable warming of the inlet line (fuel will be dumping from the inner to outer tank). This will be a cyclic event as the inner tank fills and dumps, listen closely enough to the vac tank and you will hear the click as the fill and vent valves open and close. 

    • Like 1

  16. 17 hours ago, Bluejeepnut said:

    I have had to rework the ignition system on my 1924 Maxwell. Is the spark retarded when the control is all the way up (to the left) on the quadrant? This would pull the distributor all the way in toward the engine block.  Thank you.

     

    From the owners manual - to retard move the steering quadrant lever anti clockwise, to advance lever moves clockwise.

    • Like 1

  17. 12 minutes ago, c49er said:

    Change the oil ... add some MMO and start driving it regularly ... the valves should not stick anymore.

     

    What he said.

     

    Alternatively you could start by dribbling some into the intake at idle, expect lots of exhaust smoke initially. Being over cautious I would take the side plates off anyway just to see if there is anything untoward, your choice. 


  18. Your diagnosis is sound, most side valve engines that have extended periods of sitting are prone to sticking valves, dont like the mention of clattering though.

     

    Have you considered removing the side plate covers to acces the valves and having a look?  If you have someone motor it over you will probably see a valve thats hanging up.

     

    As to the fix, you could try a good soak with Marvel oil or similar, worst case would be off with the head and remove the valve, possibly decoke the guide, if its bent then you have awhole more heap of work.

     

    Probably a good place to start would be wet and dry compression checks.


  19. Look, the most important thing at this stage is to check the actual pressure with a guage worry about viscosity etc after.

     

    You will get every man and his dog telling you all they know about oils, do a search here and you will be overwhelmed with information, both good and bad, none of it is relevant if you dont have good oil pressure.

     

     

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    • Haha 1

  20. Agree with the suggestion that fitting an oil pressure guage is the only sure way to see if the pressure is ok, but wondering if you only have 100 miles on the engine after rebuild, why wouldn't you be taking it back to the rebuilder ?

    As to oil, I would be thinking along the lines of 20w40 at least.


  21. 5 hours ago, 50jetback said:

    This is a query received by our local club - anyone have any suggestions as to what may be happening here?

     

     " I am having difficulty with my Buick. The motor in my 55 Century is a Nailhead V8 322 CID.

    The vehicle had an ignition problem and it will run but struggles under load.
    My timing light shows that the 4 cylinders on the RHS all spark as should.
    However the 4 on the LHS show that they break down intermittently or sometimes don’t spark at all.
    I have replaced the Distributor cap, rotor button, points and condenser, leads and spark plugs. To no avail. However when I changed back to the old rotor button it improved slightly. I have spoken to friends who are mechanics and have tried advancing the timing etc.
    They both said it is very strange.
    Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated ."

     

    Anyone heard of a similar problem?

     


     

     

    Not  familiar with this engine but, does it have dual point ignition ?

     

    Aside from this I can see no reason at all why one side of the engine would fire but not the other,  you say it " had an ignition problem" what was the problem ?