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Posts posted by hchris

  1. 14 hours ago, PFitz said:

    There rarely is any need to put in a modern lip seal with a tapered rubbing surface. Yes, figuring out where on the taper it contacts so you can get a lip seal the right size is tough. And modern lip seals won't last as long as the original leather or felt seals do.  The originals have afar greater contact width so the force per square area is less. Plus, felt and leather hold oil to better self lubricate and they work better at excluding dust in the contact area so they wear the contact surface far less over the same miles traveled than a modern lip seal will.


    But, when dust gets in under the edges of a lip seal by mixing with the oil there, it becomes a grinding paste. Within a few thousand miles it will not only wear the very thin contact edge of a lip seal, it will also grind a groove in the contact surface. That's why they also sell press-on repair sleeves for standard sized lip seal contact areas.  


    As I mentioned above, you can remove the leather or felt seal from it's sheet metal retainer, wash it in solvent such as lacquer thinner, and then place strips of paper down inside the retainers to shim the leather/felt back to an original  snug fit. Then it's good for another lifetime or two.




    So you know of a source for a sleeve to fit a tapered surface ?? 

  2. On 8/10/2018 at 1:58 AM, 1937P4 said:

    The Rear brake drum oil seal surface on my 1937 Plymouth is tapered 1/16" over 13/16 length. Both drums are this way. Is there a reason for this?  Thanks and God Bless



    Correct, this is how they were made. There is a predetermined end float on the axle and I guess the taper alowed for side movement within the seal.


    Like your hubs, 80 years on most have wear/grooves in the seal areas, currently working on a solution to turn hubs down parallel and adapt a modern seal to fit the old outer seal case, have had limited success retro fitting a modern seal to work on the tapered surface but with too much wear its only been a short term fix.

  3. Well done, great initiative on proofing the vac system. My only query is the apparent short time interval in which the vacuum appears to be drawing fuel, although I dont have anything to measure it by, I`m thinking that the inner tank would hold about a pint ?? and it would take a little longer to fill  before it dumps.


    The acid test of course is on the road, and particularly on a long steady climb with lots of throttle and minimal vacuum; keep us posted I`m keen to see how it behaves on a lengthy run.

  4. Quick check to see if its drawing fuel when installed, put your hand on the brass fitting or pipe on the fuel inlet side, you will feel it go cold as fuel passes through into the inner tank; when the inner vent valve opens fuel flow will stop and you will feel a noticeable warming of the inlet line (fuel will be dumping from the inner to outer tank). This will be a cyclic event as the inner tank fills and dumps, listen closely enough to the vac tank and you will hear the click as the fill and vent valves open and close. 

    • Like 1

  5. 17 hours ago, Bluejeepnut said:

    I have had to rework the ignition system on my 1924 Maxwell. Is the spark retarded when the control is all the way up (to the left) on the quadrant? This would pull the distributor all the way in toward the engine block.  Thank you.


    From the owners manual - to retard move the steering quadrant lever anti clockwise, to advance lever moves clockwise.

    • Like 1

  6. 12 minutes ago, c49er said:

    Change the oil ... add some MMO and start driving it regularly ... the valves should not stick anymore.


    What he said.


    Alternatively you could start by dribbling some into the intake at idle, expect lots of exhaust smoke initially. Being over cautious I would take the side plates off anyway just to see if there is anything untoward, your choice. 

  7. Your diagnosis is sound, most side valve engines that have extended periods of sitting are prone to sticking valves, dont like the mention of clattering though.


    Have you considered removing the side plate covers to acces the valves and having a look?  If you have someone motor it over you will probably see a valve thats hanging up.


    As to the fix, you could try a good soak with Marvel oil or similar, worst case would be off with the head and remove the valve, possibly decoke the guide, if its bent then you have awhole more heap of work.


    Probably a good place to start would be wet and dry compression checks.

  8. Look, the most important thing at this stage is to check the actual pressure with a guage worry about viscosity etc after.


    You will get every man and his dog telling you all they know about oils, do a search here and you will be overwhelmed with information, both good and bad, none of it is relevant if you dont have good oil pressure.



    • Like 4
    • Haha 1

  9. Agree with the suggestion that fitting an oil pressure guage is the only sure way to see if the pressure is ok, but wondering if you only have 100 miles on the engine after rebuild, why wouldn't you be taking it back to the rebuilder ?

    As to oil, I would be thinking along the lines of 20w40 at least.

  10. 5 hours ago, 50jetback said:

    This is a query received by our local club - anyone have any suggestions as to what may be happening here?


     " I am having difficulty with my Buick. The motor in my 55 Century is a Nailhead V8 322 CID.

    The vehicle had an ignition problem and it will run but struggles under load.
    My timing light shows that the 4 cylinders on the RHS all spark as should.
    However the 4 on the LHS show that they break down intermittently or sometimes don’t spark at all.
    I have replaced the Distributor cap, rotor button, points and condenser, leads and spark plugs. To no avail. However when I changed back to the old rotor button it improved slightly. I have spoken to friends who are mechanics and have tried advancing the timing etc.
    They both said it is very strange.
    Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated ."


    Anyone heard of a similar problem?




    Not  familiar with this engine but, does it have dual point ignition ?


    Aside from this I can see no reason at all why one side of the engine would fire but not the other,  you say it " had an ignition problem" what was the problem ?


  11. Amen to the above, very understated cars are these.


    At 6`3" one of the very few British sports cars I can comfortably fit into, wind up windows, cruises nicely at 70 mph in 5th gear overdrive.


    If you are looking for something with a bit of flair, forget the MG/Triumph/Healey contenders and get yourself one of these; had mine over 5 years now and cant stop smiling.

    20180516_113955 (2).jpg

  12. Coming in a little late here but - I recently had the same dilemna with fitting spoke wheels on my Sunbeam Alpine (LBC to you guys , I believe) 


    Having owned Chryslers for many years I am more than familiar with their practice of lh thread lug nuts on the left side wheels, so my research into fitting left and right hand thread axle hubs, with appropriately threaded centre spinners caused me no end of confusion. Eventually I decided to follow the Chrysler practice and installed left threads left side and rights the other; having buttoned it all up I went for a test drive, did some left turns right turns etc and within 3 blocks felt the wheels going clonk, clonk, clonk at the next turn; got home all right and sat down for more research.  


    Eventually I found a very good article by a spoke rim manufacturer (no, kicking myself for not keeping it as a reference) who described the interaction of braking forces between axle and rim, this is the definitive reasoning behind correct threading - as someone mentioned earlier the easiest way to remember is the centre spinners must tighten towards the rear of the car on all wheels, quite the opposite to lug nut practice.


    And just to make myself crystal clear - I am talking about male thread axle, female thread spinner variety of spoked rim. I have now completed 2 - 300 kms without drama so feel comfortable in letting the seatbelt off a notch or two. 



    • Like 1

  13. Umm no, I think we're looking at the heat exchanger between inlet and exhaust manifold. You don't want to have exhaust and inlet gasses mixing, and even without the hole you will have an exhaust manifold leak without the four studs.

  14. 4 hours ago, carmover said:

    I stepped on the pedal it started backfiring through the muffler and running rough and finally shut off and would not restart.


    If I could perhaps add my thoughts here; you mention the above aspect twice in your observations, before and after playing with the carb.


    My first impression is that the stumbling with exhaust backfires ( technically after fire) is indicative of an excessive rich mixture, particularly when you get to the point where it wont start, I suspect its flooded at that point, taking the plugs out should reveal this as they will probably be black and sooty.


    If this is the case then you need to establish why its flooding, you say that it ran ok for an hour (I`m  assuming that the car was stationary). So two things come to mind:

    1. the transition from idle to opening the throttle could mean that jets/mixture adjustments are not correct;

    2.( this I find more likely as you say you have added an electric pump), is that as you open the throttle and the float level drops, the pump, in trying to meet the increased demand overwhelms the float/needle valve and floods the carb. 


    Have you checked the pressure output of the pump ?  A vacuum tank fed carb was designed to run at 0.5 psi delivery pressure, the average output of an electric pump is somewhere between 1.5 and 3 psi and could even be higher depending on the pump. At idle with minimal demand from the pump the float may manage to hold the needle on its seat, but once you reach a point where pump demand increases and the float is jiggling around with the float level changing attitude when in motion, it could well be that the mechanism  is incapable of shutting off the pump flow.

    • Like 3

  15. So let me "fess up here" - I'm not a Lincoln person, nevertheless temp senders generally fall into two categories, resistance based or voltage based.


    For the purpose of your exercise you only need to establish if the sender value changes with heat, so lets first assume it works on resistance, do the previously mentioned resistance measuring with the multimeter as the engine warms up.


    If you get no response with this then reconnect the wire to the sender unit, set your multimeter to volts and take a voltage reading between the guage and sender unit as the engine warms up, looking for a voltage change consistent with temp change (it's worth first measuring the cold voltage).


    If you get a response in either of these exercises you have at least established if the sender is working, or not. If you get lucky enough to find the sender is working then your next step would be to see if it's the correct one for your guage.


    Having so far established that the guage is working, it's logical to see if the sender is working before pulling anything apart.

  16. 11 hours ago, 19tom40 said:

    . The Ford type uses a bi-metal strip with contacts


    Well done, that's where product familiarity is great.


    Given the change in current flow, couldn't you still use a multimeter to ascertain if the sender is working ? accuracy may be another matter, but at least you can prove/disprove its function.

  17. 20 hours ago, John_Mc said:

    but is either a bad sending unit or an incompatible sending unit for the gauge.  


    Ok good news with grounding the sensor wire now you know the guage works. For sure the sender unit needs to be compatible with the guage, so if you are not using original components you're not on a level playing field. 


    The sender unit is at the receiving end of the 6v line passing through the guage to ground, it is a large resistor which varies it's electrical values when exposed to heat, as such the changes in resistance affects how the guage reads, if the sender resistance isn't matched to the guage then the guage won't work or will be inaccurate. 


    To check the sender, disconnect the sender/guage wire and connect a multimeter between the sender and earth whilst cold, noting the resistance value.  Keep the multimeter connected between sender and earth and run the engine, as the coolant temp rises the resistance value should change, this at least confirms that the sender is working. 


    Assuming that this works you now have to determine if you have a matching sender/guage resistance, so a bit of research will be required or fitment of a known value sender.

  18. 5 hours ago, John_Mc said:

    First, I grounded the sending unit and with the ignition on, the gauge needle does not move, it is pegged at cold no matter what I do.  I do have continuity from the sender unit to the gauge.  

    Not sure if I'm reading you correctly, but what you should be doing is, with ignition on, remove the wire from the sender and ground it. Your guage should read max temp, if not then the guage is faulty.


    To check the sender, connect it with an ohm meter and note its cold resistance value, then run the engine and look for a change in the resistance as it warms up. The specific resistance values applicable to temp changes vary from one make to another and you would have to search for your values, nevertheless if the resistance changes with heat then the sender is working,  how accurate it is may be questionable.