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hchris

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Posts posted by hchris

  1. 2 hours ago, 64Nail said:

    Replaced the horn relay, horn still doesn’t work. 

     

    Any ideas where to troubleshoot?

    64 Riviera 

     

    thanks 

     

     

    Does the horn work if you run a jumper lead straight to it ?

  2. Sounds like you might be dealing with two issues at once.

     

    As to the temp guage, do you know if its an electric sender unit or bourdon tube sender ? electrical will have a wire coming off of the sender unit, bourdon tube will be a sealed unit with thin copper tube from a fitting in the block back to the guage.

     

    Electric units work with a change in resistance as the temp sender unit heats up, fairly easy to fault find if you have a multi meter and know the resistance value of the sender.

     

    Bourdon tube is another matter, essentially the copper tube between sender and guage is filled with ether or similar and sealed up, the temp changes the volume of enclosed fluid and raises pressure within the sealed tube, at the guage end this pressure moves the needle mechanism; same principle as an oil pressure guage. More often than not the tube is fractured, soldered fittings crack etc. and the fluid leaks out thus the pressure element is lost and guage ceases to function or, with partial loss, under reads.

     

    With the vapor lock issue there are hundreds of previous posts on the problem, do a search through the forum for various remedies. 

  3. At the trans end, the cable fits into a square shaped receptacle which is the inside of a little pinion gear being driven by the output shaft of the gearbox.

     

    As the cable isnt spinning when you removed it from the back of the speedo, the problem lies in this area. Either you havent pushed the cable far enough into the pinion receptacle or the pinion itself is at fault, possibly damaged stripped or whatever. Normally there is a retaining plate which holds the pinion gear in the gearbox outer housing, so you should be able to remove it and investigate if needs be, but first try and push the cable well into the pinion before you go any further. 

  4. On 7/10/2019 at 11:38 PM, Mark Wetherbee said:

    The top reminds me of one for a Sunbeam Alpine but Greg is right that it could be for any of those little roadsters of that era.

     

    Not Sunbeam Alpine, doesnt have the correct rear latches. 

  5. 1 hour ago, m-mman said:

    I just got a 1946 Automotive News newspaper and in it is an advertisement from the Trico corporation for their line of vacuum powered windshield fans.  (the little ones that mount on the steering column or dashboard)  

     

    The ad text reads:

    "Here is one fan which puts no drain on your battery - which requires no wiring - which operates on cost free harnessed air power and as dependability as your windshield wiper."  The target audience would likely also include heavy trucks. 

    How truthful do you think this position is? 

     

    Is the operation of a continuous vacuum accessory (fan/wiper) actually 'cost free'?   (fuel and maintenance)

    An electrical drain would require a little more effort to spin the generator, but these things are essentially functioning as a vacuum leak.

     

    Is the engine perhaps operating a little leaner because of them?

    The additional air is brought into the manifold after the carburetor, but how many CFM of non-fuel air would it possibly be?

    Would a leaner mixture somehow result in better MPG?

    In mileage contests all non essential electrical drains are stopped, but nobody induces a vacuum leak for better fuel mileage. 

     

    Maintenance - An electrical drain might wear the brushes faster, but could a 'vacuum leak' burn the valves faster? (or do any other damage?)

    Maybe these slight differences would show up only in the cost conscious area of commercial trucking. 

     

    With a 3 brush generator system, tuning the electrical output to compensate for various electrical accessories might be difficult, so before regulators, perhaps vacuum power was better?

     

    An engine's vacuum 'draw' (inches of Hg) I think is consistent regardless of the size, number of cylinders or design (OHV, side valve) Is this true?

    As engines evolved from say 1920 to 1940 were there changes in their ability to operate a continuous vacuum accessory? (Not talking about vacuum drop when climbing a hill, but a lower power engine would certainly have the throttle open farther and therefore provide less vacuum)

     

    Do you think Trico's claims were accurate? or were they promoting a dying technology? Continuously operated vacuum powered accessories. . . . 

     

     

    Wow you have been busy thinking; my take is that, as mentioned, back in the day electrical accessories were troublesome and vacuum was potentially less so.

     

    As to burning valves, leaning mixtures etc. I would think the volume of manifold air extracted wouldnt  be significant enough to cause any grief, after all how many vehicles with vacuum wipers, vacuum fuel pumps etc. do you think suffered from these issues.

     

    Time to turn out the light and start counting sheep 😉

    • Like 1
  6. 1 hour ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:

    Hchris:

    A temperature drop of 15 degrees C equates to about 27 degrees F.  I typically see a drop of about 15 to 20 degrees F with a recored radiator.  

    These IR guns are very useful in many applications.  

    Joe

     

    Whoops, yes should have degrees F

  7. On 2/23/2019 at 11:31 AM, Mark Wetherbee said:

    I hate when I’m looking for something on the internet and can only find a want ad...

     

    Did you have any luck? 

     

    I too could use one of these tools, it’s listed in the Pierce Arrow tune-up charts as a Delco Remy synchronization tool #1838182 for type 660 distributors. I might just try to use a good protractor and cut it down - all I need is 45 degrees measured. I’ll let you know how I make out when I get into this project. Doing a search of the tool number brings up a few PDF’s on how it’s used if you need.

     

     Yes I made one out of a school clear plastic protractor, made a pointer which fitted into the rotor cap drive slot, unfortunately cant find it to photograph right now. 

  8. 4 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:

    I have read so many different answers to this that I decided to ask the wise folks here. I am trying to see where my gauge is reading in relation to the engine temperature but I’m not sure where exactly where I should be pointing the gun. Some say to point it to the upper radiator hose. Some say to point it on the metal of the water pump. Some say point it on the head. Each one of those spots produced a different temperature, especially the spot on the head near the exhaust port. Is the coolant temp going to be the same temperature as the metal engine? Where is the best spot to check the engine temp?

     

    My take is that you are wondering how accurate your temp guage is ?? if you can see where the temp probe is located on the engine thats where you want to point your IR gun, close is better.

     

    If you are looking to see how hot the coolant is then point your IR at the radiator inlet pipe/spout.

     

    If you are looking to see how well the radiator is working, point your IR  at the inlet pipe then the outlet pipe and note the difference between temperatures, generally you should get a temp drop about 15 degrees C for an efficient radiator.

    • Thanks 2
  9. Sad days downunder, demolition  is about to commence on the original Chrysler manufacturing plant (Keswick South Australia).

     

    Dating back to pre Chrysler era local company T J Richards started building Mopars here in the 1920`s, Chrysler took over post WWII and continued on this site until 1960`s. Reused as a furniture sales house until a few years ago it still retains the original CHRYSLER signage on on of the external walls.

     

    Mega store Kaufland is about to raise the building for a new shopping centre; to their credit they have agreed to sympathetically remove the wall panels and transport to a local auto museum for storage until a suitable way of displaying the sign is found, they also allowed car club and museum representatives to enter the building and earmark any further items of significance found prior to, and during demolition, which they will put aside for interested parties. 

    P1020516 (2).JPG

  10. Yeah sounds like the valve/springs/levers in top part of the tank are dodgy, assuming there`s no cracks in the casting ??

     

    As mentioned, plenty of how to`s with pics on the forum; probably start with searching "stewart warner"

     

    Be careful with installing an electric pump as they usually generate 2- 3 psi, vac tanks deliver 0.5 psi, any more than this and the float valve wont be able to stop the resultant flooding.

     

    One quick check you can make to see if the vac unit is drawing fuel, is to put some fuel into the vac tank, close it up and get the engine running, place your hand on the upper vac tank casing and see if there`s a temperature change from time to time. The logic behind this is, as the fuel is emptied from the vac tank, the internal float mechanism will periodically drop and open the suction port to the main fuel tank, there will then be fuel flowing in to the vac tank and (yes believe it) you can actually feel the temperature drop as the fuel flows through the inlet port, once the float rises and shuts off fuel flow you can feel the loss of cooling. If you have good hearing or put a probe between your ear and the mechanism you can also hear the "clicking' of the valve mechanism at the same time. 

  11. Ok so I'm assuming that the amp meter is reading correctly ? that's a positive indication whilst charging  ?

     

    If so then there's nothing left to do, gauges etc. aren't polarity sensitive, nor lights, starter etc. You said the coil leads were swapped (hot wire to the + terminal, - wire to the distributor) so that's good; can't think of anything else.

     

    I'm still a little confused about your "negative earth" regulator, the regulator doesn't care about polarity, it's function is simply to control the current flow as demand rises and falls plus ensuring the battery is charged. What really determines the difference between negative and positive electrics is:

    1. how you have the battery  terminals coonected, and

    2. the polarity of the internal field windings of the generator (dynamo)

     

    So in all of this, so long as the battery connections and generator polarity are a correct everything should run just fine.

  12. Are we assuming that you have it hooked up positive earth at the moment  ?

     

    If you're now choosing to swap over to negative earth then yes to all you have said above.

     

    What concerns me is your reference to electronic regulator, because in addition to the above you would normally need to change the generator (dynamo) field polarity, which is a simple enough task, but I would be cautious without knowing the wiring details of the regulator; perhaps best left to a professional. 

  13. 11 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:

    Hey guys, curious as to how to adjust timing on my Chrysler Windsor, i bought a timing light and i know i have to do something with the harmonic balancer, but how do i know when its at 0 degrees.

    You will probably need a 12v power source to operate your timing light, assuming your Windsor is 6v.

  14. 3 hours ago, Summershandy said:

    Been tinkering on the car over the winter. Wanted to do some work on the clock. Charged up the battery and hooked it up. Clock doesn't work but it did before. Under hood light works and horn works. All fuses are good. Went to turn on the headlights and no lights work. Everything worked when I parked it last fall. The instrument cluster is removed. The temp gauge is gone getting fixed. Don't want to turn the key because of the gauge wires being disconnected. Why won't the headlights or brake lights turn on? I didn't do any work to the switch or the wiring. I have a wiring diagram but this field has always been my weakest link. 

     

    Is there a relay in the headlight circuit ? perhaps its quit.

     

    Assume you have a wiring circuit, pretty hard to troubleshoot without one.

  15. 7 hours ago, Meadowfleet said:

    Engine Rebuilding 101: 

     

    -Can someone explain to me the difference between STD rings and .010, .020, etc.?

     

    -Are the standard rings the same size as oversized rings, the oversized rings are just a wider diameter? Or are the oversized rings thicker in size? What I mean by thicker is if you lay the ring down and use a caliper to measure the size of the piece of metal, not the diameter, is it thicker/wider than a standard ring?

     

    -Also, can you use an oversized ring on a standard piston?

     

    -If someone bored an engine would they bore every cylinder or just the ones that were damaged? 

     

     Bloo has given excellent insite, if  I might elaborate a little more though.

     

    Consider a ring starts out as a solid piece of round metal, in simple terms if you turned off an end piece on a lathe you would have a solid slice of metal of a given diameter and thickness, if you then drilled /machined out the centre of this slice, you would finish up with a metal ring of given thickness and diameter, cut a slot in it and you now have a ring which you can carefully expand and slide over the piston top and fit into an appropriate width groove in the piston.

     

    So pistons and rings are made to measure for given size cylinders, obviously wear and tear makes the precision sized cylinder oversize in due course, so there are now various options to overcome the problem of lost compression and excessive oil consumption due to this wear, a lot will depend on the severity of wear as to repair choices.

     

    Oversize rings is one solution, usually coupled with remachining the cylinder bore and oversize pistons to suit. But just focusing on the rings, to answer your questions, consider a bigger diameter piece of round metal ( say 0.10 or 0.20 or 0.30 greater diameter) machining off a slice and going through the same process as before, you now have an oversize ring; generally they will be of the same thickness as before. 

     

    So now you have an oversize ring and it can do the job of making up for cylinder wear, however it`s not that straightforward and Bloo has done a good job of explaining why.

  16. 1 hour ago, Meadowfleet said:

    I replaced the valve springs on the odd side. I know I’m not supposed to do a compression on a cold car but I did just to see where it stood:

    #1 80

    #2 90

    #3 95

    #4 120

    When I did start it I ran it fast and checked to see that oil was getting to the rockers. Oil came out nicely as it should. 

    What I find perplexing is that the engine idles and revs smoothly. 

     

    I took the electric fuel pump wire off and ran the car strictly on the mechanical fuel pump. It ran great. Unfortunately I forgot to look and see if the carburetor was still shooting gas out when it was shut off. I will look the next time I run it. There was so much black smoke coming out of the tail pipes I couldn’t see clearly through it. I’m assuming after looking online a little that it is more of a carburetor issue more than it is an engine issue. It didn’t smoke like that before but perhaps that has to do with the weak springs that were on it and now that they are replaced the hidden issues came out. But it was definitely not encouraging to see all of that smoke. 

     

    So there`s a big discrepancy between 1 and 4 despite the engine being cold, in fact other than 4 they all look sick, what do the other cylinders read ?

     

    To ascertain whether compression leaks are valve or piston ring related, squirt a little oil into the cylinder being checked then do the test, if the pressure is significantly higher after the oil treatment then its indicating faulty rings, if the pressure reading remains much the same then there is a valve leak.

     

    Given your opening comments about rings and heads being messed with, makes it rather difficult to give specific diagnosis; perhaps you need to start again ?? if it were my car, I would not be impressed with that much oil lying on top of the piston in photo 2.

     

    With the carb fault, I would assume you had a lot of residual fuel lying in the manifold which is going to smoke until it all clears thru combustion.The reason I asked about the electric pump, is I suspect, that`s the cause of flooding, it`s simply overwhelming the float needle, so if you continue to use it you may need a regulator, in the first instance however I would try running without using it. 

  17. On 3/31/2019 at 12:32 PM, Meadowfleet said:

    And this was in the #1 cylinder however the spark plug wasn’t covered in wet oil. It was dry. 

    CF3F4A6F-649F-4580-B018-3BA7059C1945.jpeg

     

    Looks to me like oil has run down an open valve whilst motor is staionary, good chance the valve guides are shot.

  18. On 3/31/2019 at 8:08 AM, Meadowfleet said:

    I took a picture inside the cylinder that had the broken valve and this is stuck to the side of the wall. I don’t know what it is. The cylinders that I checked look great though, with the exception of whatever that is. 

    13183D2F-A5BD-4F22-A211-CA6C07174DBD.jpeg

     

    Gotta say that's most intriguing. 

  19. 4 hours ago, cahartley said:

    You diagnosed part of your trouble when you said turning in the mixture screws have no effect.

    There is/are plugged passages somewhere.

     

    Well if it's flooding you are never going to get the mixtures right, so at this point I wouldn't assume that anything's blocked.

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