hchris
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Posts posted by hchris
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4 hours ago, cahartley said:
You diagnosed part of your trouble when you said turning in the mixture screws have no effect.
There is/are plugged passages somewhere.
Well if it's flooding you are never going to get the mixtures right, so at this point I wouldn't assume that anything's blocked.
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7 hours ago, keiser31 said:
It is a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200.
Down here it was simply known as a Valiant, our first ever Chrysler Valiant whats more.
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43 minutes ago, CatBird said:
I think I will refit the gravity feed system. Not sure why the previous owner had fitted an electric pump. The original carburetor and gas tank are in the same places. Should work as original.
Good thinking, 1.5psi was the acknowledged standard for vac feed systems back in the day.
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Well it would appear that float needle isn't doing the job of stopping fuel flow when the carb bowl fills up.
So what's causing pressure build up when the engine has stopped, a number of possibilities exist:
- do you have an electric fuel pump still running?
- Is there enough heat to cause fuel boiling?
- some carbs have an anti percolation system inbuilt to prevent residual heat causing too much carb bowl build up after shut down
- Is it possible that the fuel cap vent is blocked, causing excessive tank pressures after shutdown?
Putting aside the other problems you have encountered it surely won't run right until you get this sorted.
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I'm curious you keep mentioning flex plate turns ok, do you have trans out ?
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21 hours ago, Ken_Lincoln said:
Thanks hcris .... I have exhausted all avenues here in Australia, and was hoping to locate some in the US { or anywhere else for that matter } ... Bottom line is my drums are in desperate need of replacement as I want to drive it to South Australia in September ... a round trip of 2000 kms. or more over a period of 10 days ...
and I would feel much more comfortable { and safe } knowing that the brakes are the best I can possibly get .. I have even contemplated a disc brake conversion , but that opens a real can of worms regarding engineering requirements for the conversion
I have an idea that 34 Plymouth were the same size, perhaps another avenue ?
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Reckon you will struggle with this, there are some people who spray metal inside the drum and remachine to get the lining surface back. As to replacements, I have never heard of anyone downunder, swap meets etc are probably your best shot. Have a look in Restored Cars for drum refubishers.
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What Keiser said, but just to elaborate a little - assuming you have the original engine, cooling tubes were introduced around 1934; you can tell by noting that the pre tube blocks have the upper cylinders exposed in the block casting on the starter motor side, after that the blocks were flat both sides.
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Need a big a*** puller, plenty of info here if you search rear brake drum removal.
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The motor as such doesn't care about polarity, if you've applied 12v to the 6v motor then it probably won't be happy.
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If you find the answer let us know, there are thousands world wide who would love to hear the answer.
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6 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:
Hey guys so about a month ago I replaced the head gasket on my 1949 Chrysler windsor, yesterday as i tried to start it there was antifreeze shooting up thru the carb, so i took the carb off and there was antifreeze in the headers, there was no water in the oil or anything and looked ok. Not sure as to why there is antifreeze in the headers tho. Any suggestions?
Take the manifold off again and put sealant on the retaining bolts, some of them go into the water jacket.
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Looks pretty good to me, variations could also include carbon build up on the high ones, a little valve leak on the low ones. With those numbers I certainly wouldn't be touching anything.
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12 hours ago, Bloo said:
That might not be 100% accurate, I can't really see enough of the car to tell. I know I have seen side trim like that on a USA (Plymouth) model, but the only pics I can find like that are 1962 Australian Chrysler Valiants. Any Valiant made from 1960-1962 would have had that roofline.
Edit: It's a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 if it is the USA model. If it's Aussie or built somewhere else, all bets are off...
Have a look at some of the Australian Chrysler websites: built by Chrysler down here, they sold very well.
Unlike the US product where this body style was marketed for both Plymouth and Dodge variants, downunder they were only sold as Chrysler Valiant.
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Agreed to all of the above, put simply, if the engine is turning slowly i.e. starting or slogging up a hill then the spark needs to be retarded, at normal road speeds it needs to be advanced.
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OK , well how about knocking the timing back a few degrees to set say 16" vacuum as suggested by Beemon, then see how it runs.
Another factor could be the carb float setting too high, this will make it run a little richer and at idle you may not get enough adjustment out of the mixture screws.
But its important that you try these things one at a time to see what effect they have.
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Still used today in light aircraft.
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Perhaps it might be easier if you were to tell us what make of car it is, someone may then respond with a wiring diagram.
The answer to your first question is yes, some coils have a built-in ballast reistor, some have an external resistor.
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1 hour ago, Sactownog said:
I need to remove my steering box and shaft. I need to rebuild it.
I am thinking I need to take off the shaft 1st. the top of the gear box looks like the shaft has a LARGE nut that will require a 16" crescent wrench to unscrew then the shaft will pull out. IS THIS CORRECT?
2nd, I will remove 4 bolts from the frame and the steering gear box will come off of the frame.
can someone tell me if this is the correct steps to remove driving shaft and gear box OR DOES IT COME OUT AS 1 WHOLE UNIT?
First you need to disconnect the drop arm from the tie rod, then the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis. I find then its easiest to remove the steering wheel and drag the whole lot up through the floor (having of course removed the floor boards/panels). Maybe remove the steering wheel first rather than later, oh and there will be wires running down the inside of the steering column that need to be disconnected.
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5 minutes ago, telriv said:
THE ONLY TIME YOU USE VACUUM TO SET INITIAL IGNITION TIMING IS WHEN YOU DON'T HAVE A TIMING LIGHT.
With that being said it ONLY gives you a basis & you fine tune, advance or retard, as nec. to get the performance, mileage or pinging to where you feel most comfortable.
Rodney,
I thought the bushings I sent mostly solved your problem???
The whole point of using the vac guage is to fine tune, get the basic settings with the timing light then use the vac guage to adjust timing and mixtures to obtain the highest vac reading, then back timing off to lower your highest vac reading an inch or two. Follow up with a road test and listen for pinging, if you encounter pinging back off timing in small increments until it stops.
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14 hours ago, offdensen said:
I ended with the vacuum on 19, Is this about the normal vacuum for a 401 in 1963?
And how does it drive, notice any difference ?
2 bad cylinders
in Technical
Posted
So there`s a big discrepancy between 1 and 4 despite the engine being cold, in fact other than 4 they all look sick, what do the other cylinders read ?
To ascertain whether compression leaks are valve or piston ring related, squirt a little oil into the cylinder being checked then do the test, if the pressure is significantly higher after the oil treatment then its indicating faulty rings, if the pressure reading remains much the same then there is a valve leak.
Given your opening comments about rings and heads being messed with, makes it rather difficult to give specific diagnosis; perhaps you need to start again ?? if it were my car, I would not be impressed with that much oil lying on top of the piston in photo 2.
With the carb fault, I would assume you had a lot of residual fuel lying in the manifold which is going to smoke until it all clears thru combustion.The reason I asked about the electric pump, is I suspect, that`s the cause of flooding, it`s simply overwhelming the float needle, so if you continue to use it you may need a regulator, in the first instance however I would try running without using it.