hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. On 03/03/2018 at 10:09 AM, seando said:

    I wonder what yellow is? It is a straight pin hole to the vac line from manifold. I have it capped off.

     

    All quiet here so I assume everything is fine, still scratching my head re the unidentified "yellow" port in an earlier thread and then I came across these items, courtesy of the Dodge Brothers newsletter some years back (a gold mine of information for Dodge owners).

     

    So its purpose in life is to increase the vacuum force (booster). This enables a greater pulling power for fuel from the rear tank and is particularly helpful for high throttle openings when going uphill etc. which reduces the risk of running out of fuel in the reservoir under such conditions.

    vac booster 1.jpg

    vac booster 2.jpg

    • Like 1

  2. Does any one have any reliable info, illustrations, data etc. on Kingston  vac units, I can find all the information in the world for Stewart units, but there appears to be a huge vacuum (pun intended) on Kingston material.

     

    Thanks in advance.

     

     


  3. 6 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

    Is this the yellow port - an air vent to outer tank?

     

    Yes it would appear to be a metered orifice serving as a vent, might be worth taking out the blank.

     

    2 hours ago, frank29u said:

    it may be trial and error to find the "sweet" spot on the shaft for cork location.

     

    i agree, trial and error to get the floats in the right spot is probably the answer, obviously someone else has had a fiddle with these in the past


  4. OK, having read your most recent post it would appear that the inner tank is not dumping and the reservoir is flooding to the point that fuel is being sucked back through the manifold line.

     

    If the inner tank cant dump it will continue to fill until the fuel level reaches the top of that stand pipe, in the inner tank, then spill over into the reservoir, at some point if the inner tank level keeps rising it will be drawn back into the manifold through the suction line.

     

    The outer tank (reservoir) must be open to atmosphere, thats why the filler port is in the top of it, the only piece subject to vacuum is the inner tank. If the reservoir is full to the brim then there is no airspace in there, hence probably why you observe fuel is only trickling to the filter

     

    Cant help you with the yellow port, but I wonder if its also a vent ??

     


  5. My first thoughts are the carb float/needle mechanism are not shutting off and the carb is flooding, if so this would give you the fouled plugs so i would hold off buying new ones.

     

    Possibly this is linked to the fiddling with the vac tank, perhaps now that its working more efficiently you might have a greater head of fuel in the tank, or the flapper valve is not opening and flooding the reservoir. Remove the inner tank and see how much fuel is in the reservoir, I would expect there should only be an inch or two of fuel inside if things are working properly.


  6. 1 hour ago, seando said:

    definitely floating, but i thought the same thing. If they didn't float they wouldn't open the flapper to dump fuel. But that is why I pondered adding the washers for counter weight in case the cork's mass had deteriorated over time. 

     

    I have got it to the point where it will dump, slow trickle and stop releasing fuel. Then with more fuel, dump again, slow trickle and stop. I am not sure if the trickle is self induced from the dump splashback, or the cork raising and closing the flapper. Is it slightly gradual given the level drops and the cork rises, or is it supposed to be a sudden and abrupt stoppage? 

     

    Yeah I have to agree that the floats look pretty ordinary and perhaps they don`t have enough lift/weight to hold the flapper shut tight, worth a try to add a small weight and see if it makes a difference. One other thought I had, is it possible the corks are slipping on the shaft rather than lifting it ??

     

     


  7. 6 hours ago, ply33 said:

    Which is why I've asked twice on this thread if his DeSoto used the same mechanism as Plymouth for getting a vacuum source. On the Plymouth of that era the vacuum for the fuel pump is provided by a tap off the suction side of the oil pump. So the faster the engine is turning over the more vacuum you have, totally independent of carburetor throttle position or engine load. So far, if that question has been answered I haven't seen it.

     

     

    There was that reasoning of constant vacuum with the oil pump source, as to why others relied on manifold vacuum I don,t know but certainly this method was the most popular.

    Was there the potential to dilute the oil with fuel if a malfunction occurred ? I don`t know.


  8. The outer tank is not subjected to vacuum at any time, it simply serves as a reservoir for the inner tank to dump into. This is quite different to the Stewart design where the whole of the container is subject to vacuum and needs to be perfectly sealed to function.

     

    The Kingston has an inner tank and this is the only area subject to vacuum and only when the flapper valve is closed. The vac line (from manifold or oil pump depending on make) is connected directly to the inner tank and causes fuel to be drawn in, under vacuum whilst the flapper is closed. As the fuel level rises in the inner tank a float (connected by linkage to the flapper) rises to a given point, the flapper is opened, fuel is dumped to the outer tank (reservoir) and vacuum lost, as the inner fuel level drops, the float moves to close the flapper and vacuum is resumed drawing in more fuel; this cycle is continually repeated in order to maintain a head of fuel in the outer tank (reservoir) which then gravity feeds to the carb.

     

    I much prefer the Kingston design over the Stewart as its far less complex,  with none of springs and levers and cast upper lid that give so much grief on the Stewart. 

     

    But for sure, the down side to all of the vacuum systems is diminishing vacuum as the throttle is opened, some manufacturers designed various boosters or enlarged reservoir tanks to offset this problem, but if the hill is big enough don`t be surprised if the engine quits.


  9. Well done and an excellent portrayal of what I was trying to describe.

     

    Its crucial that the flapper valve seals as you can see, without proper sealing you will have neither vacuum action or fuel input. Even a minor leak at the valve will cause fuel in the inner tank to be depleted faster than vacuum action can replace it, which would explain that whilst  it may idle well, take it out on the road and the demands will outstrip supply, and of course once the engine stops so does the vacuum.

     

    So from what I am seeing your problem is somewhere in that valve/linkage mechanism, not ignoring the fact that some wear and tear on the links which hold the valve may be causing it to seat askew and not seating properly.

     

    Keep up the good work, you are not only fixing your own problem but providing valuable information for others out there on what is becoming a lost art in vac tank analysis. 

    • Like 1

  10. Not sure that I`m seeing all of the video, seems that your sound is not syncing with pictures, you`re mentioning springs and levers that I`m not seeing.

     

    Nevertheless, the inner tank that you removed needs to be dismantled further, inside is a float/lever mechanism that opens and shuts the little flapper valve at the bottom.

     

    A couple of critical items with these bits are 1) the flapper valve must seal properly on its seat, if there are blemishes or marks on the mating surfaces it wont seal and that inner container will not hold fuel like its supposed to, if you have any leakage here you need to polish the joint surfaces with lapping compound to get a proper seal. 2) the correct movement of float and levers connected to the flapper valve are also very important if they don`t function correctly then again the inner tank wont hold fuel. 

     

    Essentially the purpose of that inner tank is to keep the outer tank topped up with fuel, the inner tank is subjected to both fuel and vacuum, when the float is down a vac port is open to the main fuel tank, the vacuum created draws fuel into the inner tank and the float rises, at a predetermined point the float rises far enough to open the flapper valve and it dumps the content of the inner tank into the outer tank, which then supplies the carb. Having dumped the inner tank contents the float/ lever mechanism will close the flapper at which point vacuum starts to draw in more fuel and the process is repeated.

     

    So long story short, check float mechanism and flapper seating. You can, with the inner tank removed and held over a suitable container, pour fuel into the inner tank and check its function, what should happen is the fuel will rise to a certain level and the flapper open and dump its load, at least you have determined that this part of the system works, keep an eye on the flapper valve that it remains dry until it opens. 


  11. All things being equal, with due attention to details already mentioned, my own experience with a CF8 is that 50mph is quite comfortable on the open road.

     

     

    As to front end shimmy, almost invariably it's the wedges under the front springs that set the castor which are the main culprits, ever had a shopping trolley go rogue on you? ?

    • Like 1

  12. Fouled plugs are usually a good indicator of over rich mixture, black and sooty is the indication, wet and oily will indicate oil leakage. As others have said bubbling at the plugs suggests wrong plugs, lack of plug gaskets, not enough plug torque.

     

    As to over rich mixture, assuming the choke isn't stuck closed, I would be looking at :

    incorrect mixture screw adjustment

    worn float valve needle or seat

    wrong float height / sinking float.

     

     


  13. Not being familiar with the Zephyr I would nevertheless be cautious about blanking off any draft tube orifice. 

     

    Most vehicles in this era had a draft inlet thru the oil filler cap and a draft tube exit from the rocker cover or side plate on the block, blanking off any of these ports will lead to over pressurisation within the crank case / block and thus the internal blow by pressures will seek an outlet, more often than not back thru the filler worse via the crank shaft seals.

     

    It might be worth a bit more research before applying any blanks, or at the very least keep an eye out for any external oil leaks if you do go ahead.


  14. 2 hours ago, Bluejeepnut said:

    I am planning to remove and clean the oil pan on my 1924 Maxwell. While off, I am thinking it would be a good idea to check rod and main bearing clearances.

     

    I would appreciate help with determining acceptable tolerance ranges for rod and main bearings. Also, what would be acceptable torque ranges for both on reassembly?

     

    Thank you.

     

    If there is no significant reason for you to remove bearings I would be leaving everything intact; on the other hand if you have deep knocking noises or low oil pressure then the advice as offered by others is good.

     

    You just never know what may arise after disturbing things unnecessarily.


  15. 4 hours ago, CT Car Guy said:

    Thanks.

    I have been there and it just confuses me more. It is listed on the registry list dated Feb 2011 in MI ( No TAC)  which the cars documents concur but it was Mr. Miller who dismissed the car as non-factory. I do plan to dive in and get the engine, transmission and differential numbers but am not sure if I can find a source to reference. I also plan to look at the grease points.  I know that sounds strange but the Tiger and Alpine differ greatly with the number and locations. 

     

    I attempted to see if I could get the car authenticated by the Tiger (TAC) but they primarily operate on the west coast.  There is only one senior inspector on the east and he is several hundred miles way. FYI - they require 3 inspectors to concur so it is impossible to have this done. I am holding off purchasing the car until I can be absolutely sure it is genuine.  They have had a lot of clones recently as the prices go up that are being passed off.

    THX

    Larry

    Connecticut

     

     Can i suggest you approach someone in the Sunbeam Alpine Owners Club of America (SAOCA) via their forum or Tigers East Alpines East (TEAE) is another authoritive  organisation.

     

    I can verify that the procedure for authenticating a Tiger is very rigid and time consuming, sadly the market brought it on itself.


  16. 11 hours ago, 42319DB34 said:

     

          " Log 16,   3rd photo. ( engine bay ) appears veh has a ( later than 33-34 ) 

                            '35 and later have full water jacket on left side of engine +

                             water distribution tube running length of block.

                              33-34 w/o water jacket on left side of block ."

     

         Well spotted, just noted that the engine number is D41, so much later than the car; not an uncommon issue given the age of the car.