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Posts posted by hchris

  1. 7 hours ago, Meadowfleet said:

    Engine Rebuilding 101: 


    -Can someone explain to me the difference between STD rings and .010, .020, etc.?


    -Are the standard rings the same size as oversized rings, the oversized rings are just a wider diameter? Or are the oversized rings thicker in size? What I mean by thicker is if you lay the ring down and use a caliper to measure the size of the piece of metal, not the diameter, is it thicker/wider than a standard ring?


    -Also, can you use an oversized ring on a standard piston?


    -If someone bored an engine would they bore every cylinder or just the ones that were damaged? 


     Bloo has given excellent insite, if  I might elaborate a little more though.


    Consider a ring starts out as a solid piece of round metal, in simple terms if you turned off an end piece on a lathe you would have a solid slice of metal of a given diameter and thickness, if you then drilled /machined out the centre of this slice, you would finish up with a metal ring of given thickness and diameter, cut a slot in it and you now have a ring which you can carefully expand and slide over the piston top and fit into an appropriate width groove in the piston.


    So pistons and rings are made to measure for given size cylinders, obviously wear and tear makes the precision sized cylinder oversize in due course, so there are now various options to overcome the problem of lost compression and excessive oil consumption due to this wear, a lot will depend on the severity of wear as to repair choices.


    Oversize rings is one solution, usually coupled with remachining the cylinder bore and oversize pistons to suit. But just focusing on the rings, to answer your questions, consider a bigger diameter piece of round metal ( say 0.10 or 0.20 or 0.30 greater diameter) machining off a slice and going through the same process as before, you now have an oversize ring; generally they will be of the same thickness as before. 


    So now you have an oversize ring and it can do the job of making up for cylinder wear, however it`s not that straightforward and Bloo has done a good job of explaining why.

  2. 1 hour ago, Meadowfleet said:

    I replaced the valve springs on the odd side. I know I’m not supposed to do a compression on a cold car but I did just to see where it stood:

    #1 80

    #2 90

    #3 95

    #4 120

    When I did start it I ran it fast and checked to see that oil was getting to the rockers. Oil came out nicely as it should. 

    What I find perplexing is that the engine idles and revs smoothly. 


    I took the electric fuel pump wire off and ran the car strictly on the mechanical fuel pump. It ran great. Unfortunately I forgot to look and see if the carburetor was still shooting gas out when it was shut off. I will look the next time I run it. There was so much black smoke coming out of the tail pipes I couldn’t see clearly through it. I’m assuming after looking online a little that it is more of a carburetor issue more than it is an engine issue. It didn’t smoke like that before but perhaps that has to do with the weak springs that were on it and now that they are replaced the hidden issues came out. But it was definitely not encouraging to see all of that smoke. 


    So there`s a big discrepancy between 1 and 4 despite the engine being cold, in fact other than 4 they all look sick, what do the other cylinders read ?


    To ascertain whether compression leaks are valve or piston ring related, squirt a little oil into the cylinder being checked then do the test, if the pressure is significantly higher after the oil treatment then its indicating faulty rings, if the pressure reading remains much the same then there is a valve leak.


    Given your opening comments about rings and heads being messed with, makes it rather difficult to give specific diagnosis; perhaps you need to start again ?? if it were my car, I would not be impressed with that much oil lying on top of the piston in photo 2.


    With the carb fault, I would assume you had a lot of residual fuel lying in the manifold which is going to smoke until it all clears thru combustion.The reason I asked about the electric pump, is I suspect, that`s the cause of flooding, it`s simply overwhelming the float needle, so if you continue to use it you may need a regulator, in the first instance however I would try running without using it. 

  3. On 3/31/2019 at 12:32 PM, Meadowfleet said:

    And this was in the #1 cylinder however the spark plug wasn’t covered in wet oil. It was dry. 



    Looks to me like oil has run down an open valve whilst motor is staionary, good chance the valve guides are shot.

  4. On 3/31/2019 at 8:08 AM, Meadowfleet said:

    I took a picture inside the cylinder that had the broken valve and this is stuck to the side of the wall. I don’t know what it is. The cylinders that I checked look great though, with the exception of whatever that is. 



    Gotta say that's most intriguing. 

  5. 4 hours ago, cahartley said:

    You diagnosed part of your trouble when you said turning in the mixture screws have no effect.

    There is/are plugged passages somewhere.


    Well if it's flooding you are never going to get the mixtures right, so at this point I wouldn't assume that anything's blocked.

  6. 7 hours ago, keiser31 said:

    It is a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200.


    Down  here it was simply known as a Valiant, our first ever Chrysler Valiant whats more.

  7. Well it would appear that float needle isn't doing the job of stopping fuel flow when the carb bowl fills up.


    So what's causing pressure build up when the engine has stopped, a number of possibilities exist:

    • do you have an electric fuel pump still running? 
    • Is there enough heat to cause fuel boiling?
    • some  carbs have an anti percolation system inbuilt to prevent residual heat causing too much carb bowl build up after shut down
    • Is it possible that the fuel cap vent is blocked, causing excessive tank pressures after shutdown?  

    Putting aside the other problems you have encountered it surely won't run right until you get this sorted. 

  8. 21 hours ago, Ken_Lincoln said:


    Thanks hcris .... I have exhausted all avenues here in Australia, and was hoping to locate some in the US { or anywhere else for that matter } ... Bottom line is my drums are in desperate need of replacement as I want to drive it to South Australia in September ...  a round trip of 2000 kms.  or more over a period of 10 days ...

    and I would feel much more comfortable  { and safe } knowing that the brakes are the best I can possibly get .. I have even contemplated a disc brake conversion , but that opens a real can of worms regarding engineering requirements for the conversion


    I have an idea that 34 Plymouth were the same size, perhaps another avenue ?

  9. Reckon you will struggle with this,  there are some people who spray metal inside the drum and remachine to get the lining surface back. As to replacements, I have never heard of anyone downunder, swap meets etc are probably your best shot. Have a look in Restored Cars for drum refubishers.

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  10. What Keiser said,  but just to elaborate a little - assuming you have the original engine, cooling tubes were introduced around 1934; you can tell by noting that the pre tube blocks have the upper cylinders exposed in the block casting on the starter motor side, after that the blocks were flat both sides.

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  11. 6 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:

    Hey guys so about a month ago I replaced the head gasket on my 1949 Chrysler windsor, yesterday as i tried to start it there was antifreeze shooting up thru the carb, so i took the carb off and there was antifreeze in the headers, there was no water in the oil or anything and looked ok. Not sure as to why there is antifreeze in the headers tho. Any suggestions? 



    Take the manifold off again and put sealant on the retaining bolts, some of them go into the water jacket.

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  12. 12 hours ago, Bloo said:

    That might not be 100% accurate, I can't really see enough of the car to tell. I know I have seen side trim like that on a USA (Plymouth) model, but the only pics I can find like that are 1962 Australian Chrysler Valiants. Any Valiant made from 1960-1962 would have had that roofline.


    Edit: It's a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200 if it is the USA model. If it's Aussie or built somewhere else, all bets are off...






    Have a look at some of the Australian Chrysler websites: built by Chrysler down here, they sold very well. 


    Unlike the US product where this body style was marketed for both Plymouth and Dodge variants, downunder they were only sold as Chrysler Valiant.   

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  13. Think I would be looking at the light switch, brake / tail and headlights are usually wired independently, very unusual to have headlights fused; more likely to be a resetable  breaker in the headlamp switch; unless of course we are talking prewar.

  14. OK , well how about knocking the timing back a few degrees to set say 16" vacuum as suggested by Beemon, then see how it runs.


    Another factor could be the carb float setting too high, this will make it run a little richer and at idle you may not get enough adjustment out of the mixture screws.


    But its important that you try these things one at a time to see what effect they have.

  15. Perhaps it might be easier if you were to tell us what make of car it is,  someone may then respond with a wiring diagram.


    The answer to your first question is yes, some coils have a built-in ballast reistor, some have an  external resistor. 

  16. 1 hour ago, Sactownog said:

    I need to remove my steering box and shaft. I need to rebuild it. 


    I am thinking I need to take off the shaft 1st. the top of the gear box looks like the shaft has a LARGE nut that will require a 16" crescent wrench to unscrew then the shaft will pull out. IS THIS CORRECT? 


    2nd, I will remove 4 bolts from the frame and the steering gear box will come off of the frame. 


    can someone tell me if this is the correct steps to remove driving shaft and gear box OR DOES IT COME OUT AS 1 WHOLE UNIT?



    First you need to disconnect the drop arm from the tie rod, then the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis. I find then its easiest to remove the steering wheel and drag the whole lot up through the floor (having of course removed the floor boards/panels). Maybe remove the steering wheel first rather than later, oh and there will be wires running down the inside of the steering column that need to be disconnected.

  17. 5 minutes ago, telriv said:


    With that being said it ONLY gives you a basis & you fine tune, advance or retard, as nec. to get the performance, mileage or pinging to where you feel most comfortable.




    I thought the bushings I sent mostly solved your problem???



    The whole point of using the vac guage is to fine tune,  get the basic settings with the timing light then use the vac guage to adjust timing and mixtures to obtain the highest vac reading, then back timing off to lower your highest vac reading an inch or two. Follow up with a road test and listen for pinging, if you encounter pinging back off timing in small increments until it stops.


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