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Posts posted by hchris

  1. Sad days downunder, demolition  is about to commence on the original Chrysler manufacturing plant (Keswick South Australia).


    Dating back to pre Chrysler era local company T J Richards started building Mopars here in the 1920`s, Chrysler took over post WWII and continued on this site until 1960`s. Reused as a furniture sales house until a few years ago it still retains the original CHRYSLER signage on on of the external walls.


    Mega store Kaufland is about to raise the building for a new shopping centre; to their credit they have agreed to sympathetically remove the wall panels and transport to a local auto museum for storage until a suitable way of displaying the sign is found, they also allowed car club and museum representatives to enter the building and earmark any further items of significance found prior to, and during demolition, which they will put aside for interested parties. 

    P1020516 (2).JPG

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  2. Yeah sounds like the valve/springs/levers in top part of the tank are dodgy, assuming there`s no cracks in the casting ??


    As mentioned, plenty of how to`s with pics on the forum; probably start with searching "stewart warner"


    Be careful with installing an electric pump as they usually generate 2- 3 psi, vac tanks deliver 0.5 psi, any more than this and the float valve wont be able to stop the resultant flooding.


    One quick check you can make to see if the vac unit is drawing fuel, is to put some fuel into the vac tank, close it up and get the engine running, place your hand on the upper vac tank casing and see if there`s a temperature change from time to time. The logic behind this is, as the fuel is emptied from the vac tank, the internal float mechanism will periodically drop and open the suction port to the main fuel tank, there will then be fuel flowing in to the vac tank and (yes believe it) you can actually feel the temperature drop as the fuel flows through the inlet port, once the float rises and shuts off fuel flow you can feel the loss of cooling. If you have good hearing or put a probe between your ear and the mechanism you can also hear the "clicking' of the valve mechanism at the same time. 

  3. Ok so I'm assuming that the amp meter is reading correctly ? that's a positive indication whilst charging  ?


    If so then there's nothing left to do, gauges etc. aren't polarity sensitive, nor lights, starter etc. You said the coil leads were swapped (hot wire to the + terminal, - wire to the distributor) so that's good; can't think of anything else.


    I'm still a little confused about your "negative earth" regulator, the regulator doesn't care about polarity, it's function is simply to control the current flow as demand rises and falls plus ensuring the battery is charged. What really determines the difference between negative and positive electrics is:

    1. how you have the battery  terminals coonected, and

    2. the polarity of the internal field windings of the generator (dynamo)


    So in all of this, so long as the battery connections and generator polarity are a correct everything should run just fine.

  4. Are we assuming that you have it hooked up positive earth at the moment  ?


    If you're now choosing to swap over to negative earth then yes to all you have said above.


    What concerns me is your reference to electronic regulator, because in addition to the above you would normally need to change the generator (dynamo) field polarity, which is a simple enough task, but I would be cautious without knowing the wiring details of the regulator; perhaps best left to a professional. 

  5. 11 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:

    Hey guys, curious as to how to adjust timing on my Chrysler Windsor, i bought a timing light and i know i have to do something with the harmonic balancer, but how do i know when its at 0 degrees.

    You will probably need a 12v power source to operate your timing light, assuming your Windsor is 6v.

  6. 3 hours ago, Summershandy said:

    Been tinkering on the car over the winter. Wanted to do some work on the clock. Charged up the battery and hooked it up. Clock doesn't work but it did before. Under hood light works and horn works. All fuses are good. Went to turn on the headlights and no lights work. Everything worked when I parked it last fall. The instrument cluster is removed. The temp gauge is gone getting fixed. Don't want to turn the key because of the gauge wires being disconnected. Why won't the headlights or brake lights turn on? I didn't do any work to the switch or the wiring. I have a wiring diagram but this field has always been my weakest link. 


    Is there a relay in the headlight circuit ? perhaps its quit.


    Assume you have a wiring circuit, pretty hard to troubleshoot without one.

  7. 7 hours ago, Meadowfleet said:

    Engine Rebuilding 101: 


    -Can someone explain to me the difference between STD rings and .010, .020, etc.?


    -Are the standard rings the same size as oversized rings, the oversized rings are just a wider diameter? Or are the oversized rings thicker in size? What I mean by thicker is if you lay the ring down and use a caliper to measure the size of the piece of metal, not the diameter, is it thicker/wider than a standard ring?


    -Also, can you use an oversized ring on a standard piston?


    -If someone bored an engine would they bore every cylinder or just the ones that were damaged? 


     Bloo has given excellent insite, if  I might elaborate a little more though.


    Consider a ring starts out as a solid piece of round metal, in simple terms if you turned off an end piece on a lathe you would have a solid slice of metal of a given diameter and thickness, if you then drilled /machined out the centre of this slice, you would finish up with a metal ring of given thickness and diameter, cut a slot in it and you now have a ring which you can carefully expand and slide over the piston top and fit into an appropriate width groove in the piston.


    So pistons and rings are made to measure for given size cylinders, obviously wear and tear makes the precision sized cylinder oversize in due course, so there are now various options to overcome the problem of lost compression and excessive oil consumption due to this wear, a lot will depend on the severity of wear as to repair choices.


    Oversize rings is one solution, usually coupled with remachining the cylinder bore and oversize pistons to suit. But just focusing on the rings, to answer your questions, consider a bigger diameter piece of round metal ( say 0.10 or 0.20 or 0.30 greater diameter) machining off a slice and going through the same process as before, you now have an oversize ring; generally they will be of the same thickness as before. 


    So now you have an oversize ring and it can do the job of making up for cylinder wear, however it`s not that straightforward and Bloo has done a good job of explaining why.

  8. 1 hour ago, Meadowfleet said:

    I replaced the valve springs on the odd side. I know I’m not supposed to do a compression on a cold car but I did just to see where it stood:

    #1 80

    #2 90

    #3 95

    #4 120

    When I did start it I ran it fast and checked to see that oil was getting to the rockers. Oil came out nicely as it should. 

    What I find perplexing is that the engine idles and revs smoothly. 


    I took the electric fuel pump wire off and ran the car strictly on the mechanical fuel pump. It ran great. Unfortunately I forgot to look and see if the carburetor was still shooting gas out when it was shut off. I will look the next time I run it. There was so much black smoke coming out of the tail pipes I couldn’t see clearly through it. I’m assuming after looking online a little that it is more of a carburetor issue more than it is an engine issue. It didn’t smoke like that before but perhaps that has to do with the weak springs that were on it and now that they are replaced the hidden issues came out. But it was definitely not encouraging to see all of that smoke. 


    So there`s a big discrepancy between 1 and 4 despite the engine being cold, in fact other than 4 they all look sick, what do the other cylinders read ?


    To ascertain whether compression leaks are valve or piston ring related, squirt a little oil into the cylinder being checked then do the test, if the pressure is significantly higher after the oil treatment then its indicating faulty rings, if the pressure reading remains much the same then there is a valve leak.


    Given your opening comments about rings and heads being messed with, makes it rather difficult to give specific diagnosis; perhaps you need to start again ?? if it were my car, I would not be impressed with that much oil lying on top of the piston in photo 2.


    With the carb fault, I would assume you had a lot of residual fuel lying in the manifold which is going to smoke until it all clears thru combustion.The reason I asked about the electric pump, is I suspect, that`s the cause of flooding, it`s simply overwhelming the float needle, so if you continue to use it you may need a regulator, in the first instance however I would try running without using it. 

  9. On 3/31/2019 at 12:32 PM, Meadowfleet said:

    And this was in the #1 cylinder however the spark plug wasn’t covered in wet oil. It was dry. 



    Looks to me like oil has run down an open valve whilst motor is staionary, good chance the valve guides are shot.

  10. On 3/31/2019 at 8:08 AM, Meadowfleet said:

    I took a picture inside the cylinder that had the broken valve and this is stuck to the side of the wall. I don’t know what it is. The cylinders that I checked look great though, with the exception of whatever that is. 



    Gotta say that's most intriguing. 

  11. 4 hours ago, cahartley said:

    You diagnosed part of your trouble when you said turning in the mixture screws have no effect.

    There is/are plugged passages somewhere.


    Well if it's flooding you are never going to get the mixtures right, so at this point I wouldn't assume that anything's blocked.

  12. 7 hours ago, keiser31 said:

    It is a 1961 Plymouth Valiant V-200.


    Down  here it was simply known as a Valiant, our first ever Chrysler Valiant whats more.

  13. Well it would appear that float needle isn't doing the job of stopping fuel flow when the carb bowl fills up.


    So what's causing pressure build up when the engine has stopped, a number of possibilities exist:

    • do you have an electric fuel pump still running? 
    • Is there enough heat to cause fuel boiling?
    • some  carbs have an anti percolation system inbuilt to prevent residual heat causing too much carb bowl build up after shut down
    • Is it possible that the fuel cap vent is blocked, causing excessive tank pressures after shutdown?  

    Putting aside the other problems you have encountered it surely won't run right until you get this sorted. 

  14. 21 hours ago, Ken_Lincoln said:


    Thanks hcris .... I have exhausted all avenues here in Australia, and was hoping to locate some in the US { or anywhere else for that matter } ... Bottom line is my drums are in desperate need of replacement as I want to drive it to South Australia in September ...  a round trip of 2000 kms.  or more over a period of 10 days ...

    and I would feel much more comfortable  { and safe } knowing that the brakes are the best I can possibly get .. I have even contemplated a disc brake conversion , but that opens a real can of worms regarding engineering requirements for the conversion


    I have an idea that 34 Plymouth were the same size, perhaps another avenue ?

  15. Reckon you will struggle with this,  there are some people who spray metal inside the drum and remachine to get the lining surface back. As to replacements, I have never heard of anyone downunder, swap meets etc are probably your best shot. Have a look in Restored Cars for drum refubishers.

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