hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. 38 minutes ago, AHa said:

    In the past I have heard people say you have to seal the gaskets with shellac. would this help?

     

    The critical areas for these tanks are the top housing, which usually develop cracks or warp and, the seating of the valves in the upper housing , along with the springs and fulcrum levers etc.


  2. 2 hours ago, Phillip Robinson said:

    Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.

     

    Okay,  having had the crankshaft reground would mean the bearings actually need  to match the newly machined crankshaft pin dimensions. ie you're probably needing specific under size bearing shells. Using second hand bearings in this instance would undo the money you've just invested in the crankshaft. 

    • Like 2

  3. 23 hours ago, Phillip Robinson said:

    Is it wise to use second hand bearings for the crankshaft. I have 3 sets of old , used bearings, for a 4 cylinder ford flat motor. What is accepted as being the best idea, new or used, for 75 year old motor.

     

    Depends on the clearances and existing wear patterns of shaft and bearings.

    If you're just putting together pieces that have been disassembled from the same location, not a problem, if you have part wornn bearings and crank pins that need just a light polish/linish, not a problem; beyond these parameters not such a good idea. 


  4. 4 hours ago, Batwing-eight said:

    Has anyone had experience, good or bad, with removing the thermostat-controlled exhaust manifold "butterfly" used in vintage cars to redirect exhaust gas to warm the intake manifold upon start-up? Obviously, there's benefit in warming the incoming fuel/air mix when the motor's cold, but it's also likely impossible to completely close-off the heating after the motor reaches operating temperature, thus increasing the chance of vapor lock and hard starting. That butterfly also places some restriction in the exhaust flow. Leave it in or remove it? Bill.

     

     

    Dammned if you do, dammned if you dont.

     

    It might come down to where you are living. In a cold climate it will certainly reduces the potential for throttle ice, in a hot climate it raises the potential for vaporizing; so perhaps it's the toss of a coin ?


  5. 3 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

    I use a Mighty - Vac all the time to bleed brakes. I have also used the pop bottle (soda bottle) and rubber hose method (aka one man bleeder) with good results.👍

     

    How you say? When the bleed screw threads are loose in the cylinder/caliper, I put PTFE tape on them. And it is more common today than in years past. Most every new bleeder screw is undersized threads ( or cylinder/caliper is oversized). 

     

    I know there are anti-PTFE tape people out there, of course due to seeing botched PTFE tape applications over the years, but it works for me. Just apply to the threads, keeping clear of the hole through the side of the bleed screw. One does not want to induce PTFE bits into the hydraulic parts of the brake system!

     

    PTFE - Teflon (R DuPont)😉

     

    Gravity bleeding (the opening of all or one at a time bleed screws at cylinder/caliper with top of maser cylinder removed) only works well if the master cylinder reservoir is above the bleed screws by a foot or so. Frame mounted masters make this difficult! Masters mounted high on the firewall do pretty good. ABS systems, not at all!

     

    Even a little grease on the threads of the bleed screw will help prevent air getting sucked back in. 


  6. On 8/29/2019 at 2:40 AM, Plyroadking said:

    My '40 had the same issue, finally traced it to the butterfly shaft being so worn that I was sucking air around it.

     

    Worn throttle throttle shaft bushes will normally show up as a cause for weak mixture, can't see that as a cause for fast idle.


  7. 9 hours ago, erock194 said:

    Can't get Idle to come down. Even with the linkage disconnected it won't idle lower. Original flathead. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

    Are you stuck on fast idle with the choke mechanism ?


  8. Valves would be at the top of my list, check clearances first looking for a tight one possibly not fully closing.  Beyond that,  maybe find a quiet spot and slowly hand turn the engine listening for a leak during compression at intake and exhaust, obviously a helper would be good. Alternatively make a fitting from an old spark plug connect it to a compressor,  bring each  cylinder up to TDC one at a time and put some air into each cylinder, again listening for leaks at intake and exhaust. 

    • Like 2

  9. Having rebuilt and installed the Auto clutch on my CB Chrysler, my recommendation to you is leave yours on the shelf.

     

    Perhaps you can take it down every so often, dust it, admire it, maybe even show it to your buddies as a conversation starter at you next BBQ, then put it back on the shelf where it belongs. 😉 


  10. 12 hours ago, Brooklyn Beer said:

    I was always to understand it was about volume more so then pressure. Mid 20's Franklins dump a ton of oil on the timing chain and important parts but really shows low pressure because of the amount poured into the timing gear.

    Yes and no, what started out as a splash lubrication system eventually morphed into a pressure lubrication system as engine revs and compression units increased, the crankshaft loads required more pressure as engines developed.


  11. Note that this topic originated in 2005 so not sure how much interest there is now.

     

    Nevertheless just to clear any misconceptions on the topic, there are two seperate units being discussed here, freewheel device and automatic clutch. Back in the day the freewheel device was  very common around the early to mid 30s in the Chry/Plym/Dodge range, not so the auto clutch, this was generally seen as an extra option and probably less desirable.

     

    The auto clutch, as previously stated, worked with a vacuum unit attached to the clutch pedal linkage, it had a control cable operated from a dash mounted handle/button to enable the driver to connect/disconnect the function as required. When selected it would move the clutch pedal under the influence of manifold vacuum and an acceleration/deceleration pendulum valve.

     

    Form start you needed to depress the clutch, engage a gear lift the clutch pedal  and get underway, once in motion each time you lifted your foot off the gas pedal the sudden increase in vacuum and deceleration would pull the clutch pedal down and you could shift gears, putting your foot back on the gas and subsequent drop in vacuum plus acceleration would bring  the clutch pedal back up; so the overall operantion meant that you could do most of your driving without having to use the clutch pedal, almost but not quite, an automatic.

     

     The down side to all of  this was, as previously mentioned, if you were decelerating with the intention of slowing down, or going downhill, then the vacuum action would pull the clutch in and you would lose the influence of engine compression braking, for this reason most drivers would disconnnect the unit permanently; when in use it was commonly referred to as being in Angel gear.

     

    The freewheel device was something else, built into the gearbox it was simply an over run unit that caused the gears to freewheel under negative engine torque loads, going downhill or with a light throttle load on the level; the engine would drop back to idle and the gears rotated as if in neutral, once again however this could be dangerous with the loss of engine braking. There was a control knob to disengage the device, however it seems most people left it engaged unless going down any reasonable sort of hill, leaving it engaged in normal use was common as it did work  quite well as a fuel saver. 

     


  12. 12 hours ago, Summershandy said:

     

    I was just telling my wife, when I first got the car years ago I was unaware of CPR. I had picked up a new water pump off ebay and had difficulty finding a thermostat locally. My buddy at NAPA gave me one that was used in Chevy trucks. It "just" fit the large opening on the engine without falling through. I always had fit and operating concerns. I'm thinking the same, remove to test and inspect and while I'm at it, maybe get the correct one. 

    Manual states, "six cylinder uses 151 degree and eight uses 160 degree. If permanent (ethyl-glycol) anti-freeze is used, a higher opening thermostat may be used." I pulled out my NAPA receipt and I see I'm running 180.  

     

    Yes, removing the thermostat in itself is not a fix but will be interesting to see if it makes a difference. 

     

    Whilst you have it out put in a pot of water and heat up to see how far it opens. If you suspect  a "fit" issue then that definitely needsto be sorted.

     

     

     

     

     


  13. 7 hours ago, Summershandy said:

    I agree but when do you shut it off? When it quits? I panicked somewhat.

    Interesting you should say that as that's where the temp probe is.

    But shouldn't that cooler coolant belong in the engine? Made me think the thermostat wasn't opening. Why did it not open?

     

    Agreed, I've been told to get a different size rad, electric fan or a fan with more blades. Just waiting to hear something different that may have happened. 

     

    The coolant passing through the lower hose presumably is showing that the radiator is doing it's job, in your case the question is then, how much coolant is passing through the radiator  ?

     

    Is the thermostat not opening enough or creating some other form of restriction to limit the volume of coolant passing through the radiator,  perhaps as someone has suggested, temporarily remove the thermostat completely and see what happens. 


  14. Interesting that you say the lower hose was only "warm" . Usually this would indicate that the radiator is doing its job quite well, if the rad is doing its job you should typically see a temp drop of 20 - 25 degrees F between the upper and lower hoses, perhaps this is something you could check with one of those infra red guns ?

     

    Assuming this were the case, then maybe the thermostat isnt actually opening far enough to let full flow through the radiator at the extreme end of its scale ?

     

    Having said this, straight 8s are notorious for heating up at the back of the block, maybe invest in an infra red gun and work your way around the engine with it to see if there are any hot spots, particularly at the back of the block.


  15. Sounds like you might be dealing with two issues at once.

     

    As to the temp guage, do you know if its an electric sender unit or bourdon tube sender ? electrical will have a wire coming off of the sender unit, bourdon tube will be a sealed unit with thin copper tube from a fitting in the block back to the guage.

     

    Electric units work with a change in resistance as the temp sender unit heats up, fairly easy to fault find if you have a multi meter and know the resistance value of the sender.

     

    Bourdon tube is another matter, essentially the copper tube between sender and guage is filled with ether or similar and sealed up, the temp changes the volume of enclosed fluid and raises pressure within the sealed tube, at the guage end this pressure moves the needle mechanism; same principle as an oil pressure guage. More often than not the tube is fractured, soldered fittings crack etc. and the fluid leaks out thus the pressure element is lost and guage ceases to function or, with partial loss, under reads.

     

    With the vapor lock issue there are hundreds of previous posts on the problem, do a search through the forum for various remedies. 


  16. At the trans end, the cable fits into a square shaped receptacle which is the inside of a little pinion gear being driven by the output shaft of the gearbox.

     

    As the cable isnt spinning when you removed it from the back of the speedo, the problem lies in this area. Either you havent pushed the cable far enough into the pinion receptacle or the pinion itself is at fault, possibly damaged stripped or whatever. Normally there is a retaining plate which holds the pinion gear in the gearbox outer housing, so you should be able to remove it and investigate if needs be, but first try and push the cable well into the pinion before you go any further. 


  17. On 7/10/2019 at 11:38 PM, Mark Wetherbee said:

    The top reminds me of one for a Sunbeam Alpine but Greg is right that it could be for any of those little roadsters of that era.

     

    Not Sunbeam Alpine, doesnt have the correct rear latches. 


  18. 1 hour ago, m-mman said:

    I just got a 1946 Automotive News newspaper and in it is an advertisement from the Trico corporation for their line of vacuum powered windshield fans.  (the little ones that mount on the steering column or dashboard)  

     

    The ad text reads:

    "Here is one fan which puts no drain on your battery - which requires no wiring - which operates on cost free harnessed air power and as dependability as your windshield wiper."  The target audience would likely also include heavy trucks. 

    How truthful do you think this position is? 

     

    Is the operation of a continuous vacuum accessory (fan/wiper) actually 'cost free'?   (fuel and maintenance)

    An electrical drain would require a little more effort to spin the generator, but these things are essentially functioning as a vacuum leak.

     

    Is the engine perhaps operating a little leaner because of them?

    The additional air is brought into the manifold after the carburetor, but how many CFM of non-fuel air would it possibly be?

    Would a leaner mixture somehow result in better MPG?

    In mileage contests all non essential electrical drains are stopped, but nobody induces a vacuum leak for better fuel mileage. 

     

    Maintenance - An electrical drain might wear the brushes faster, but could a 'vacuum leak' burn the valves faster? (or do any other damage?)

    Maybe these slight differences would show up only in the cost conscious area of commercial trucking. 

     

    With a 3 brush generator system, tuning the electrical output to compensate for various electrical accessories might be difficult, so before regulators, perhaps vacuum power was better?

     

    An engine's vacuum 'draw' (inches of Hg) I think is consistent regardless of the size, number of cylinders or design (OHV, side valve) Is this true?

    As engines evolved from say 1920 to 1940 were there changes in their ability to operate a continuous vacuum accessory? (Not talking about vacuum drop when climbing a hill, but a lower power engine would certainly have the throttle open farther and therefore provide less vacuum)

     

    Do you think Trico's claims were accurate? or were they promoting a dying technology? Continuously operated vacuum powered accessories. . . . 

     

     

    Wow you have been busy thinking; my take is that, as mentioned, back in the day electrical accessories were troublesome and vacuum was potentially less so.

     

    As to burning valves, leaning mixtures etc. I would think the volume of manifold air extracted wouldnt  be significant enough to cause any grief, after all how many vehicles with vacuum wipers, vacuum fuel pumps etc. do you think suffered from these issues.

     

    Time to turn out the light and start counting sheep 😉

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