hchris
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Posts posted by hchris
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12 hours ago, Summershandy said:
I was just telling my wife, when I first got the car years ago I was unaware of CPR. I had picked up a new water pump off ebay and had difficulty finding a thermostat locally. My buddy at NAPA gave me one that was used in Chevy trucks. It "just" fit the large opening on the engine without falling through. I always had fit and operating concerns. I'm thinking the same, remove to test and inspect and while I'm at it, maybe get the correct one.
Manual states, "six cylinder uses 151 degree and eight uses 160 degree. If permanent (ethyl-glycol) anti-freeze is used, a higher opening thermostat may be used." I pulled out my NAPA receipt and I see I'm running 180.
Yes, removing the thermostat in itself is not a fix but will be interesting to see if it makes a difference.
Whilst you have it out put in a pot of water and heat up to see how far it opens. If you suspect a "fit" issue then that definitely needsto be sorted.
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7 hours ago, Summershandy said:
I agree but when do you shut it off? When it quits? I panicked somewhat.
Interesting you should say that as that's where the temp probe is.
But shouldn't that cooler coolant belong in the engine? Made me think the thermostat wasn't opening. Why did it not open?
Agreed, I've been told to get a different size rad, electric fan or a fan with more blades. Just waiting to hear something different that may have happened.
The coolant passing through the lower hose presumably is showing that the radiator is doing it's job, in your case the question is then, how much coolant is passing through the radiator ?
Is the thermostat not opening enough or creating some other form of restriction to limit the volume of coolant passing through the radiator, perhaps as someone has suggested, temporarily remove the thermostat completely and see what happens.
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Interesting that you say the lower hose was only "warm" . Usually this would indicate that the radiator is doing its job quite well, if the rad is doing its job you should typically see a temp drop of 20 - 25 degrees F between the upper and lower hoses, perhaps this is something you could check with one of those infra red guns ?
Assuming this were the case, then maybe the thermostat isnt actually opening far enough to let full flow through the radiator at the extreme end of its scale ?
Having said this, straight 8s are notorious for heating up at the back of the block, maybe invest in an infra red gun and work your way around the engine with it to see if there are any hot spots, particularly at the back of the block.
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2 hours ago, 64Nail said:
Replaced the horn relay, horn still doesn’t work.
Any ideas where to troubleshoot?
64 Riviera
thanks
Does the horn work if you run a jumper lead straight to it ?
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Sounds like you might be dealing with two issues at once.
As to the temp guage, do you know if its an electric sender unit or bourdon tube sender ? electrical will have a wire coming off of the sender unit, bourdon tube will be a sealed unit with thin copper tube from a fitting in the block back to the guage.
Electric units work with a change in resistance as the temp sender unit heats up, fairly easy to fault find if you have a multi meter and know the resistance value of the sender.
Bourdon tube is another matter, essentially the copper tube between sender and guage is filled with ether or similar and sealed up, the temp changes the volume of enclosed fluid and raises pressure within the sealed tube, at the guage end this pressure moves the needle mechanism; same principle as an oil pressure guage. More often than not the tube is fractured, soldered fittings crack etc. and the fluid leaks out thus the pressure element is lost and guage ceases to function or, with partial loss, under reads.
With the vapor lock issue there are hundreds of previous posts on the problem, do a search through the forum for various remedies.
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At the trans end, the cable fits into a square shaped receptacle which is the inside of a little pinion gear being driven by the output shaft of the gearbox.
As the cable isnt spinning when you removed it from the back of the speedo, the problem lies in this area. Either you havent pushed the cable far enough into the pinion receptacle or the pinion itself is at fault, possibly damaged stripped or whatever. Normally there is a retaining plate which holds the pinion gear in the gearbox outer housing, so you should be able to remove it and investigate if needs be, but first try and push the cable well into the pinion before you go any further.
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On 7/10/2019 at 11:38 PM, Mark Wetherbee said:
The top reminds me of one for a Sunbeam Alpine but Greg is right that it could be for any of those little roadsters of that era.
Not Sunbeam Alpine, doesnt have the correct rear latches.
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1 hour ago, m-mman said:
I just got a 1946 Automotive News newspaper and in it is an advertisement from the Trico corporation for their line of vacuum powered windshield fans. (the little ones that mount on the steering column or dashboard)
The ad text reads:
"Here is one fan which puts no drain on your battery - which requires no wiring - which operates on cost free harnessed air power and as dependability as your windshield wiper." The target audience would likely also include heavy trucks.
How truthful do you think this position is?
Is the operation of a continuous vacuum accessory (fan/wiper) actually 'cost free'? (fuel and maintenance)
An electrical drain would require a little more effort to spin the generator, but these things are essentially functioning as a vacuum leak.
Is the engine perhaps operating a little leaner because of them?
The additional air is brought into the manifold after the carburetor, but how many CFM of non-fuel air would it possibly be?
Would a leaner mixture somehow result in better MPG?
In mileage contests all non essential electrical drains are stopped, but nobody induces a vacuum leak for better fuel mileage.
Maintenance - An electrical drain might wear the brushes faster, but could a 'vacuum leak' burn the valves faster? (or do any other damage?)
Maybe these slight differences would show up only in the cost conscious area of commercial trucking.
With a 3 brush generator system, tuning the electrical output to compensate for various electrical accessories might be difficult, so before regulators, perhaps vacuum power was better?
An engine's vacuum 'draw' (inches of Hg) I think is consistent regardless of the size, number of cylinders or design (OHV, side valve) Is this true?
As engines evolved from say 1920 to 1940 were there changes in their ability to operate a continuous vacuum accessory? (Not talking about vacuum drop when climbing a hill, but a lower power engine would certainly have the throttle open farther and therefore provide less vacuum)
Do you think Trico's claims were accurate? or were they promoting a dying technology? Continuously operated vacuum powered accessories. . . .
Wow you have been busy thinking; my take is that, as mentioned, back in the day electrical accessories were troublesome and vacuum was potentially less so.
As to burning valves, leaning mixtures etc. I would think the volume of manifold air extracted wouldnt be significant enough to cause any grief, after all how many vehicles with vacuum wipers, vacuum fuel pumps etc. do you think suffered from these issues.
Time to turn out the light and start counting sheep 😉
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1 hour ago, Joseph P. Indusi said:
Hchris:
A temperature drop of 15 degrees C equates to about 27 degrees F. I typically see a drop of about 15 to 20 degrees F with a recored radiator.
These IR guns are very useful in many applications.
Joe
Whoops, yes should have degrees F
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On 2/23/2019 at 11:31 AM, Mark Wetherbee said:
I hate when I’m looking for something on the internet and can only find a want ad...
Did you have any luck?
I too could use one of these tools, it’s listed in the Pierce Arrow tune-up charts as a Delco Remy synchronization tool #1838182 for type 660 distributors. I might just try to use a good protractor and cut it down - all I need is 45 degrees measured. I’ll let you know how I make out when I get into this project. Doing a search of the tool number brings up a few PDF’s on how it’s used if you need.
Yes I made one out of a school clear plastic protractor, made a pointer which fitted into the rotor cap drive slot, unfortunately cant find it to photograph right now.
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4 hours ago, Fleetwood Meadow said:
I have read so many different answers to this that I decided to ask the wise folks here. I am trying to see where my gauge is reading in relation to the engine temperature but I’m not sure where exactly where I should be pointing the gun. Some say to point it to the upper radiator hose. Some say to point it on the metal of the water pump. Some say point it on the head. Each one of those spots produced a different temperature, especially the spot on the head near the exhaust port. Is the coolant temp going to be the same temperature as the metal engine? Where is the best spot to check the engine temp?
My take is that you are wondering how accurate your temp guage is ?? if you can see where the temp probe is located on the engine thats where you want to point your IR gun, close is better.
If you are looking to see how hot the coolant is then point your IR at the radiator inlet pipe/spout.
If you are looking to see how well the radiator is working, point your IR at the inlet pipe then the outlet pipe and note the difference between temperatures, generally you should get a temp drop about 15 degrees C for an efficient radiator.
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Are you running a vacuum tank ?
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Do a search on 3 brush generators and their adjustment , pretty straight forward.
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Sad days downunder, demolition is about to commence on the original Chrysler manufacturing plant (Keswick South Australia).
Dating back to pre Chrysler era local company T J Richards started building Mopars here in the 1920`s, Chrysler took over post WWII and continued on this site until 1960`s. Reused as a furniture sales house until a few years ago it still retains the original CHRYSLER signage on on of the external walls.
Mega store Kaufland is about to raise the building for a new shopping centre; to their credit they have agreed to sympathetically remove the wall panels and transport to a local auto museum for storage until a suitable way of displaying the sign is found, they also allowed car club and museum representatives to enter the building and earmark any further items of significance found prior to, and during demolition, which they will put aside for interested parties.
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This might also attract attention if you put it in the Chrysler forum on this site.
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3 hours ago, retrorocket said:
Thank you! I did a search for vacuum tank but didn't think about doing a search for Stewart Warner
Have a look at this post
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Yeah sounds like the valve/springs/levers in top part of the tank are dodgy, assuming there`s no cracks in the casting ??
As mentioned, plenty of how to`s with pics on the forum; probably start with searching "stewart warner"
Be careful with installing an electric pump as they usually generate 2- 3 psi, vac tanks deliver 0.5 psi, any more than this and the float valve wont be able to stop the resultant flooding.
One quick check you can make to see if the vac unit is drawing fuel, is to put some fuel into the vac tank, close it up and get the engine running, place your hand on the upper vac tank casing and see if there`s a temperature change from time to time. The logic behind this is, as the fuel is emptied from the vac tank, the internal float mechanism will periodically drop and open the suction port to the main fuel tank, there will then be fuel flowing in to the vac tank and (yes believe it) you can actually feel the temperature drop as the fuel flows through the inlet port, once the float rises and shuts off fuel flow you can feel the loss of cooling. If you have good hearing or put a probe between your ear and the mechanism you can also hear the "clicking' of the valve mechanism at the same time.
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OK, then enjoy your motoring 😊
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Ok so I'm assuming that the amp meter is reading correctly ? that's a positive indication whilst charging ?
If so then there's nothing left to do, gauges etc. aren't polarity sensitive, nor lights, starter etc. You said the coil leads were swapped (hot wire to the + terminal, - wire to the distributor) so that's good; can't think of anything else.
I'm still a little confused about your "negative earth" regulator, the regulator doesn't care about polarity, it's function is simply to control the current flow as demand rises and falls plus ensuring the battery is charged. What really determines the difference between negative and positive electrics is:
1. how you have the battery terminals coonected, and
2. the polarity of the internal field windings of the generator (dynamo)
So in all of this, so long as the battery connections and generator polarity are a correct everything should run just fine.
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Are you sure that you can't just remove the seat base and with a little work, reposition the seat mount brackets back a little ?
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Are we assuming that you have it hooked up positive earth at the moment ?
If you're now choosing to swap over to negative earth then yes to all you have said above.
What concerns me is your reference to electronic regulator, because in addition to the above you would normally need to change the generator (dynamo) field polarity, which is a simple enough task, but I would be cautious without knowing the wiring details of the regulator; perhaps best left to a professional.
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11 hours ago, mikeyz123 said:
Hey guys, curious as to how to adjust timing on my Chrysler Windsor, i bought a timing light and i know i have to do something with the harmonic balancer, but how do i know when its at 0 degrees.
You will probably need a 12v power source to operate your timing light, assuming your Windsor is 6v.
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3 hours ago, Summershandy said:
Been tinkering on the car over the winter. Wanted to do some work on the clock. Charged up the battery and hooked it up. Clock doesn't work but it did before. Under hood light works and horn works. All fuses are good. Went to turn on the headlights and no lights work. Everything worked when I parked it last fall. The instrument cluster is removed. The temp gauge is gone getting fixed. Don't want to turn the key because of the gauge wires being disconnected. Why won't the headlights or brake lights turn on? I didn't do any work to the switch or the wiring. I have a wiring diagram but this field has always been my weakest link.
Is there a relay in the headlight circuit ? perhaps its quit.
Assume you have a wiring circuit, pretty hard to troubleshoot without one.
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7 hours ago, Meadowfleet said:
Engine Rebuilding 101:
-Can someone explain to me the difference between STD rings and .010, .020, etc.?
-Are the standard rings the same size as oversized rings, the oversized rings are just a wider diameter? Or are the oversized rings thicker in size? What I mean by thicker is if you lay the ring down and use a caliper to measure the size of the piece of metal, not the diameter, is it thicker/wider than a standard ring?
-Also, can you use an oversized ring on a standard piston?
-If someone bored an engine would they bore every cylinder or just the ones that were damaged?
Bloo has given excellent insite, if I might elaborate a little more though.
Consider a ring starts out as a solid piece of round metal, in simple terms if you turned off an end piece on a lathe you would have a solid slice of metal of a given diameter and thickness, if you then drilled /machined out the centre of this slice, you would finish up with a metal ring of given thickness and diameter, cut a slot in it and you now have a ring which you can carefully expand and slide over the piston top and fit into an appropriate width groove in the piston.
So pistons and rings are made to measure for given size cylinders, obviously wear and tear makes the precision sized cylinder oversize in due course, so there are now various options to overcome the problem of lost compression and excessive oil consumption due to this wear, a lot will depend on the severity of wear as to repair choices.
Oversize rings is one solution, usually coupled with remachining the cylinder bore and oversize pistons to suit. But just focusing on the rings, to answer your questions, consider a bigger diameter piece of round metal ( say 0.10 or 0.20 or 0.30 greater diameter) machining off a slice and going through the same process as before, you now have an oversize ring; generally they will be of the same thickness as before.
So now you have an oversize ring and it can do the job of making up for cylinder wear, however it`s not that straightforward and Bloo has done a good job of explaining why.
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"Automatic Clutch" ??? in a 1934 dodge
in Dodge & Dodge Brothers
Posted
Note that this topic originated in 2005 so not sure how much interest there is now.
Nevertheless just to clear any misconceptions on the topic, there are two seperate units being discussed here, freewheel device and automatic clutch. Back in the day the freewheel device was very common around the early to mid 30s in the Chry/Plym/Dodge range, not so the auto clutch, this was generally seen as an extra option and probably less desirable.
The auto clutch, as previously stated, worked with a vacuum unit attached to the clutch pedal linkage, it had a control cable operated from a dash mounted handle/button to enable the driver to connect/disconnect the function as required. When selected it would move the clutch pedal under the influence of manifold vacuum and an acceleration/deceleration pendulum valve.
Form start you needed to depress the clutch, engage a gear lift the clutch pedal and get underway, once in motion each time you lifted your foot off the gas pedal the sudden increase in vacuum and deceleration would pull the clutch pedal down and you could shift gears, putting your foot back on the gas and subsequent drop in vacuum plus acceleration would bring the clutch pedal back up; so the overall operantion meant that you could do most of your driving without having to use the clutch pedal, almost but not quite, an automatic.
The down side to all of this was, as previously mentioned, if you were decelerating with the intention of slowing down, or going downhill, then the vacuum action would pull the clutch in and you would lose the influence of engine compression braking, for this reason most drivers would disconnnect the unit permanently; when in use it was commonly referred to as being in Angel gear.
The freewheel device was something else, built into the gearbox it was simply an over run unit that caused the gears to freewheel under negative engine torque loads, going downhill or with a light throttle load on the level; the engine would drop back to idle and the gears rotated as if in neutral, once again however this could be dangerous with the loss of engine braking. There was a control knob to disengage the device, however it seems most people left it engaged unless going down any reasonable sort of hill, leaving it engaged in normal use was common as it did work quite well as a fuel saver.