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Posts posted by hchris

  1. 4 hours ago, carmover said:

    I stepped on the pedal it started backfiring through the muffler and running rough and finally shut off and would not restart.


    If I could perhaps add my thoughts here; you mention the above aspect twice in your observations, before and after playing with the carb.


    My first impression is that the stumbling with exhaust backfires ( technically after fire) is indicative of an excessive rich mixture, particularly when you get to the point where it wont start, I suspect its flooded at that point, taking the plugs out should reveal this as they will probably be black and sooty.


    If this is the case then you need to establish why its flooding, you say that it ran ok for an hour (I`m  assuming that the car was stationary). So two things come to mind:

    1. the transition from idle to opening the throttle could mean that jets/mixture adjustments are not correct;

    2.( this I find more likely as you say you have added an electric pump), is that as you open the throttle and the float level drops, the pump, in trying to meet the increased demand overwhelms the float/needle valve and floods the carb. 


    Have you checked the pressure output of the pump ?  A vacuum tank fed carb was designed to run at 0.5 psi delivery pressure, the average output of an electric pump is somewhere between 1.5 and 3 psi and could even be higher depending on the pump. At idle with minimal demand from the pump the float may manage to hold the needle on its seat, but once you reach a point where pump demand increases and the float is jiggling around with the float level changing attitude when in motion, it could well be that the mechanism  is incapable of shutting off the pump flow.

    • Like 3

  2. So let me "fess up here" - I'm not a Lincoln person, nevertheless temp senders generally fall into two categories, resistance based or voltage based.


    For the purpose of your exercise you only need to establish if the sender value changes with heat, so lets first assume it works on resistance, do the previously mentioned resistance measuring with the multimeter as the engine warms up.


    If you get no response with this then reconnect the wire to the sender unit, set your multimeter to volts and take a voltage reading between the guage and sender unit as the engine warms up, looking for a voltage change consistent with temp change (it's worth first measuring the cold voltage).


    If you get a response in either of these exercises you have at least established if the sender is working, or not. If you get lucky enough to find the sender is working then your next step would be to see if it's the correct one for your guage.


    Having so far established that the guage is working, it's logical to see if the sender is working before pulling anything apart.

  3. 11 hours ago, 19tom40 said:

    . The Ford type uses a bi-metal strip with contacts


    Well done, that's where product familiarity is great.


    Given the change in current flow, couldn't you still use a multimeter to ascertain if the sender is working ? accuracy may be another matter, but at least you can prove/disprove its function.

  4. 20 hours ago, John_Mc said:

    but is either a bad sending unit or an incompatible sending unit for the gauge.  


    Ok good news with grounding the sensor wire now you know the guage works. For sure the sender unit needs to be compatible with the guage, so if you are not using original components you're not on a level playing field. 


    The sender unit is at the receiving end of the 6v line passing through the guage to ground, it is a large resistor which varies it's electrical values when exposed to heat, as such the changes in resistance affects how the guage reads, if the sender resistance isn't matched to the guage then the guage won't work or will be inaccurate. 


    To check the sender, disconnect the sender/guage wire and connect a multimeter between the sender and earth whilst cold, noting the resistance value.  Keep the multimeter connected between sender and earth and run the engine, as the coolant temp rises the resistance value should change, this at least confirms that the sender is working. 


    Assuming that this works you now have to determine if you have a matching sender/guage resistance, so a bit of research will be required or fitment of a known value sender.

  5. 5 hours ago, John_Mc said:

    First, I grounded the sending unit and with the ignition on, the gauge needle does not move, it is pegged at cold no matter what I do.  I do have continuity from the sender unit to the gauge.  

    Not sure if I'm reading you correctly, but what you should be doing is, with ignition on, remove the wire from the sender and ground it. Your guage should read max temp, if not then the guage is faulty.


    To check the sender, connect it with an ohm meter and note its cold resistance value, then run the engine and look for a change in the resistance as it warms up. The specific resistance values applicable to temp changes vary from one make to another and you would have to search for your values, nevertheless if the resistance changes with heat then the sender is working,  how accurate it is may be questionable. 

  6. Yep, choke closed would do it. Over rich mixture (black exhaust smoke) is a good indicator, as already mentioned unburnt fuel in the muffler probably ignited with hot carbon deposits.


    Ignition timing (retarded) would have to be so far off that the engine would probably not run at all.


    Another possibility is a burnt exhaust valve, not seating properly could cause exhaust (still burning) gases into a fuel soaked muffler with the same result.

  7. How about disconnecting the guage line at the block and briefly spinning the engine over to see if oil comes out ? Keep some rag close by !!

  8. 3 hours ago, seando said:

    I can't seem to imagine how that works. I guess something changes as your going up the hill. 


     The fitting has an inbuilt venturi fed by the hole which you have blanked off. The venturi is designed to create an even bigger (atmospheric) pressure drop for the vacuum source at the top of the inner tank, which in turn will lessen the effect of manifold vacuum drop as you open the throttle; particularly helpful if you have a long uphill drag.


    Of course this is really only beneficial when you have a inlet manifold source of vacuum, its therefore unnecessary with an oil pump vacuum source which increases vacuum with oil pump (engine) rpm.


    Yes the vacuum force is all about throttle position, the more you open the throttle the less vacuum you have, so there is a contradiction here in engine efficiency with these systems, the amount of fuel you have stored in the vac tank gets less and less the wider you open the throttle.


    Giving it more gas to get up the hill will only make matters worse.




    4 hours ago, Tinindian said:

    This was a Stewart Werner which became Warner and was identified as a Kingston.  Good reading at any rate.


    Yes and thanks, much of the input of this particular topic was mine, based on my own experiences, and that`s all, no reference material at all.


    But I was looking to find something a little more formal in terms of literature, illustrations settings etc. in the hope that I could put together an article based on fact rather than our random fixes.




  11. On 03/03/2018 at 10:09 AM, seando said:

    I wonder what yellow is? It is a straight pin hole to the vac line from manifold. I have it capped off.


    All quiet here so I assume everything is fine, still scratching my head re the unidentified "yellow" port in an earlier thread and then I came across these items, courtesy of the Dodge Brothers newsletter some years back (a gold mine of information for Dodge owners).


    So its purpose in life is to increase the vacuum force (booster). This enables a greater pulling power for fuel from the rear tank and is particularly helpful for high throttle openings when going uphill etc. which reduces the risk of running out of fuel in the reservoir under such conditions.

    vac booster 1.jpg

    vac booster 2.jpg

    • Like 1

  12. Does any one have any reliable info, illustrations, data etc. on Kingston  vac units, I can find all the information in the world for Stewart units, but there appears to be a huge vacuum (pun intended) on Kingston material.


    Thanks in advance.



  13. 6 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

    Is this the yellow port - an air vent to outer tank?


    Yes it would appear to be a metered orifice serving as a vent, might be worth taking out the blank.


    2 hours ago, frank29u said:

    it may be trial and error to find the "sweet" spot on the shaft for cork location.


    i agree, trial and error to get the floats in the right spot is probably the answer, obviously someone else has had a fiddle with these in the past

  14. OK, having read your most recent post it would appear that the inner tank is not dumping and the reservoir is flooding to the point that fuel is being sucked back through the manifold line.


    If the inner tank cant dump it will continue to fill until the fuel level reaches the top of that stand pipe, in the inner tank, then spill over into the reservoir, at some point if the inner tank level keeps rising it will be drawn back into the manifold through the suction line.


    The outer tank (reservoir) must be open to atmosphere, thats why the filler port is in the top of it, the only piece subject to vacuum is the inner tank. If the reservoir is full to the brim then there is no airspace in there, hence probably why you observe fuel is only trickling to the filter


    Cant help you with the yellow port, but I wonder if its also a vent ??


  15. My first thoughts are the carb float/needle mechanism are not shutting off and the carb is flooding, if so this would give you the fouled plugs so i would hold off buying new ones.


    Possibly this is linked to the fiddling with the vac tank, perhaps now that its working more efficiently you might have a greater head of fuel in the tank, or the flapper valve is not opening and flooding the reservoir. Remove the inner tank and see how much fuel is in the reservoir, I would expect there should only be an inch or two of fuel inside if things are working properly.