hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. Look, the most important thing at this stage is to check the actual pressure with a guage worry about viscosity etc after.

     

    You will get every man and his dog telling you all they know about oils, do a search here and you will be overwhelmed with information, both good and bad, none of it is relevant if you dont have good oil pressure.

     

     

    • Like 4
    • Haha 1

  2. Agree with the suggestion that fitting an oil pressure guage is the only sure way to see if the pressure is ok, but wondering if you only have 100 miles on the engine after rebuild, why wouldn't you be taking it back to the rebuilder ?

    As to oil, I would be thinking along the lines of 20w40 at least.


  3. 5 hours ago, 50jetback said:

    This is a query received by our local club - anyone have any suggestions as to what may be happening here?

     

     " I am having difficulty with my Buick. The motor in my 55 Century is a Nailhead V8 322 CID.

    The vehicle had an ignition problem and it will run but struggles under load.
    My timing light shows that the 4 cylinders on the RHS all spark as should.
    However the 4 on the LHS show that they break down intermittently or sometimes don’t spark at all.
    I have replaced the Distributor cap, rotor button, points and condenser, leads and spark plugs. To no avail. However when I changed back to the old rotor button it improved slightly. I have spoken to friends who are mechanics and have tried advancing the timing etc.
    They both said it is very strange.
    Any suggestions at this point would be appreciated ."

     

    Anyone heard of a similar problem?

     


     

     

    Not  familiar with this engine but, does it have dual point ignition ?

     

    Aside from this I can see no reason at all why one side of the engine would fire but not the other,  you say it " had an ignition problem" what was the problem ?

     


  4. Amen to the above, very understated cars are these.

     

    At 6`3" one of the very few British sports cars I can comfortably fit into, wind up windows, cruises nicely at 70 mph in 5th gear overdrive.

     

    If you are looking for something with a bit of flair, forget the MG/Triumph/Healey contenders and get yourself one of these; had mine over 5 years now and cant stop smiling.

    20180516_113955 (2).jpg


  5. Coming in a little late here but - I recently had the same dilemna with fitting spoke wheels on my Sunbeam Alpine (LBC to you guys , I believe) 

     

    Having owned Chryslers for many years I am more than familiar with their practice of lh thread lug nuts on the left side wheels, so my research into fitting left and right hand thread axle hubs, with appropriately threaded centre spinners caused me no end of confusion. Eventually I decided to follow the Chrysler practice and installed left threads left side and rights the other; having buttoned it all up I went for a test drive, did some left turns right turns etc and within 3 blocks felt the wheels going clonk, clonk, clonk at the next turn; got home all right and sat down for more research.  

     

    Eventually I found a very good article by a spoke rim manufacturer (no, kicking myself for not keeping it as a reference) who described the interaction of braking forces between axle and rim, this is the definitive reasoning behind correct threading - as someone mentioned earlier the easiest way to remember is the centre spinners must tighten towards the rear of the car on all wheels, quite the opposite to lug nut practice.

     

    And just to make myself crystal clear - I am talking about male thread axle, female thread spinner variety of spoked rim. I have now completed 2 - 300 kms without drama so feel comfortable in letting the seatbelt off a notch or two. 

     

     

    • Like 1

  6. Umm no, I think we're looking at the heat exchanger between inlet and exhaust manifold. You don't want to have exhaust and inlet gasses mixing, and even without the hole you will have an exhaust manifold leak without the four studs.


  7. 4 hours ago, carmover said:

    I stepped on the pedal it started backfiring through the muffler and running rough and finally shut off and would not restart.

     

    If I could perhaps add my thoughts here; you mention the above aspect twice in your observations, before and after playing with the carb.

     

    My first impression is that the stumbling with exhaust backfires ( technically after fire) is indicative of an excessive rich mixture, particularly when you get to the point where it wont start, I suspect its flooded at that point, taking the plugs out should reveal this as they will probably be black and sooty.

     

    If this is the case then you need to establish why its flooding, you say that it ran ok for an hour (I`m  assuming that the car was stationary). So two things come to mind:

    1. the transition from idle to opening the throttle could mean that jets/mixture adjustments are not correct;

    2.( this I find more likely as you say you have added an electric pump), is that as you open the throttle and the float level drops, the pump, in trying to meet the increased demand overwhelms the float/needle valve and floods the carb. 

     

    Have you checked the pressure output of the pump ?  A vacuum tank fed carb was designed to run at 0.5 psi delivery pressure, the average output of an electric pump is somewhere between 1.5 and 3 psi and could even be higher depending on the pump. At idle with minimal demand from the pump the float may manage to hold the needle on its seat, but once you reach a point where pump demand increases and the float is jiggling around with the float level changing attitude when in motion, it could well be that the mechanism  is incapable of shutting off the pump flow.

    • Like 3

  8. So let me "fess up here" - I'm not a Lincoln person, nevertheless temp senders generally fall into two categories, resistance based or voltage based.

     

    For the purpose of your exercise you only need to establish if the sender value changes with heat, so lets first assume it works on resistance, do the previously mentioned resistance measuring with the multimeter as the engine warms up.

     

    If you get no response with this then reconnect the wire to the sender unit, set your multimeter to volts and take a voltage reading between the guage and sender unit as the engine warms up, looking for a voltage change consistent with temp change (it's worth first measuring the cold voltage).

     

    If you get a response in either of these exercises you have at least established if the sender is working, or not. If you get lucky enough to find the sender is working then your next step would be to see if it's the correct one for your guage.

     

    Having so far established that the guage is working, it's logical to see if the sender is working before pulling anything apart.


  9. 11 hours ago, 19tom40 said:

    . The Ford type uses a bi-metal strip with contacts

     

    Well done, that's where product familiarity is great.

     

    Given the change in current flow, couldn't you still use a multimeter to ascertain if the sender is working ? accuracy may be another matter, but at least you can prove/disprove its function.


  10. 20 hours ago, John_Mc said:

    but is either a bad sending unit or an incompatible sending unit for the gauge.  

     

    Ok good news with grounding the sensor wire now you know the guage works. For sure the sender unit needs to be compatible with the guage, so if you are not using original components you're not on a level playing field. 

     

    The sender unit is at the receiving end of the 6v line passing through the guage to ground, it is a large resistor which varies it's electrical values when exposed to heat, as such the changes in resistance affects how the guage reads, if the sender resistance isn't matched to the guage then the guage won't work or will be inaccurate. 

     

    To check the sender, disconnect the sender/guage wire and connect a multimeter between the sender and earth whilst cold, noting the resistance value.  Keep the multimeter connected between sender and earth and run the engine, as the coolant temp rises the resistance value should change, this at least confirms that the sender is working. 

     

    Assuming that this works you now have to determine if you have a matching sender/guage resistance, so a bit of research will be required or fitment of a known value sender.


  11. 5 hours ago, John_Mc said:

    First, I grounded the sending unit and with the ignition on, the gauge needle does not move, it is pegged at cold no matter what I do.  I do have continuity from the sender unit to the gauge.  

    Not sure if I'm reading you correctly, but what you should be doing is, with ignition on, remove the wire from the sender and ground it. Your guage should read max temp, if not then the guage is faulty.

     

    To check the sender, connect it with an ohm meter and note its cold resistance value, then run the engine and look for a change in the resistance as it warms up. The specific resistance values applicable to temp changes vary from one make to another and you would have to search for your values, nevertheless if the resistance changes with heat then the sender is working,  how accurate it is may be questionable. 


  12. Yep, choke closed would do it. Over rich mixture (black exhaust smoke) is a good indicator, as already mentioned unburnt fuel in the muffler probably ignited with hot carbon deposits.

     

    Ignition timing (retarded) would have to be so far off that the engine would probably not run at all.

     

    Another possibility is a burnt exhaust valve, not seating properly could cause exhaust (still burning) gases into a fuel soaked muffler with the same result.


  13. How about disconnecting the guage line at the block and briefly spinning the engine over to see if oil comes out ? Keep some rag close by !!


  14. 3 hours ago, seando said:

    I can't seem to imagine how that works. I guess something changes as your going up the hill. 

     

     The fitting has an inbuilt venturi fed by the hole which you have blanked off. The venturi is designed to create an even bigger (atmospheric) pressure drop for the vacuum source at the top of the inner tank, which in turn will lessen the effect of manifold vacuum drop as you open the throttle; particularly helpful if you have a long uphill drag.

     

    Of course this is really only beneficial when you have a inlet manifold source of vacuum, its therefore unnecessary with an oil pump vacuum source which increases vacuum with oil pump (engine) rpm.


  15.  

    Yes the vacuum force is all about throttle position, the more you open the throttle the less vacuum you have, so there is a contradiction here in engine efficiency with these systems, the amount of fuel you have stored in the vac tank gets less and less the wider you open the throttle.

     

    Giving it more gas to get up the hill will only make matters worse.

     

     


  16.  

    4 hours ago, Tinindian said:

    This was a Stewart Werner which became Warner and was identified as a Kingston.  Good reading at any rate.

     

    Yes and thanks, much of the input of this particular topic was mine, based on my own experiences, and that`s all, no reference material at all.

     

    But I was looking to find something a little more formal in terms of literature, illustrations settings etc. in the hope that I could put together an article based on fact rather than our random fixes.