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Posts posted by hchris

  1. On 10/6/2020 at 9:27 AM, CassDB29 said:

    My dad and I are working on restoring his 29 DB 6. We're trying to remove the rear brake drums and not having much luck. We have a hub puller and have been tapping the drum with a 2x4 and a sledge and it is not coming loose. Any advice on removing the drums?



    Took me 3 days to shift my 34 Chrysler drums, same puller same advice as everyone else, patience is the key.

  2. 17 hours ago, ply33 said:

    Around 500 would seem typical for the era. Seems maok and I have the same number in mind.


    Ok, read the question again and realised the value was for crank over rather than running. I'm assuming we're measuring downstream of the throttle. 

  3. 16 hours ago, knowinghades63 said:

    I put the pump in a vice and pressed the lever by hand woth a meter on it. The vacuum climbed rapidly and dropped slowly well within testable limits but when it is mounted to the car and doesn’t have fuel lines hooked to it. So basically the only difference in the tests is what is powering the pump my hand versus the cam lobe and I get nothing pretty much. 


    And what about the fuel supply from the tank  ?


  4. So what about fuel supply from the tank ? Have you done anything to check for blockage between the tank and pump ?


    Also I'm curious as to how you're verifying 8lb output and 2lb of vacuum, normally these pumps would only be putting out around 3 - 4psi, 8psi is well beyond the float needle capability. 

  5. 5 hours ago, Tom400CFI said:

    O.K.   If that is "the fact"...then could you define it a bit more clearly?  What is the heat, soaking? And how is that pushing fuel out the discharge nozzles? 


    Did you read the link in Carbkings response? that pretty much explains it in a nutshell, that's the item re fuel leak from throttle shaft, commonly known as heat soak. Also more often than not it leads to the other condition of hard starting when hot.

  6. Sounds high up to me, possibly piston/gudgen pin ?


    If the noise decreases when you pull a plug wire that's indicative of lightening the load on a particular piston and subsequent noise reduction, also it might account for the now you hear it, now you dont symptom due to the piston/pin moving around.  


    Certainly doesn't sound like bearings or crank issues, perhaps you could start investigating by dropping the oil, put a stocking or something over the catch pan and see if there are any metal bits floating around. 

    • Like 1
  7. There's only one fuse in this era mounted, on the ammeter as you've found. At some point a fusible cutout was introduced on the lighting switch,  it's function was to break the circuitry if a short occurred and then reset. Might be a good place to start. 

  8. 7 hours ago, marbeton said:

    Thanks for the help, your information helped me a lot. The engine is already repaired and working again.
    Now I just have to watch the temperature. Don't know what the operating temperature of a cooled engine without a pump is?


    Same as most every other engine,  around the 180 mark is good. 

  9. 17 minutes ago, 53 New Yorker said:

    Hello Everyone,

     You've given me some easy things to look for...  And I will try to get through them, to see if it turns out being something easy and an "inexpensive fix" and will let you know how it goes.

     On the other hand,  with regard to the #6 valve not closing...  and perhaps a weak or broken spring,  or perhaps, it just needs to be adjusted properly... I looked at the engine, and I can see there is a sort of "wing nut" hidden behind the manifolds that holds the cover in place...  This looks like you have to be a very flexible contortionist to get in there and work on setting the valves behind the manifolds.  Can you really get in there, with tools and a gauge without taking the manifolds off ?


     Cheers, and thank you for all your incredibly useful feedback 

    Yes and yes; doable but difficult with the manifold (s) in the way.  You may well find better access by taking the wheel off on the manifold side and seeing if there's a removable inner guard panel, many vehicles of this period were fitted like this for that reason. Obviously safe jacking and supporting the car is paramount!!

  10. 7 hours ago, Fossil said:

    I'll do that thanks. Can these be converted to newer style U-joints?


    This style of joint is completely different to what we now know as a U joint, so short answer is no.

    However I have seen later era (50s) Mopar tailshaft conversions adapted without too much work. 

    • Like 1
  11. I'm a little confused, you say backfire out the exhaust?  technically a backfire is through the carbs; afterfire is through the exhaust. 


    Afterfire is pretty rare and is more likely to be a timing issue, wouldn't entirely discount carbs but more inclined to look at timing particularly when you mention cam,coil and distributor; assuming these have been newly installed  ?

  12. Looking at your photo I'm sort of amazed that whoever did the conversion didn't aim to get the threaded portion of the plugs to sit at the same depth of the originals, I'm guessing that the 45s is at least 1/8" or more longer than the 10mm plug; wondering how far above the piston the electrode sits ?


    As to the plugs themselves, the 45s is going to run much colder having almost twice the ceramic insulation of the original, but I'm assuming, it's  been running ok with them for some time, would be interesting if you could find some plugs of similar size to the originals in 14 mm (i.e. electrode depth and insulation)  and see if they made a difference in performance. 


    Re plug location,  as Dusty explained their positioning in the combustion area is critical for design performance, engine designers go to a lot of trouble in positioning valves, plugs etc to achieve the best performances.


    Although it's probably not worth it now, a better solution to going upsize with the plugs would have been a screw in adaptor to accommodate the 10 mm plugs in the 14 mm hole. 

  13. What Brian said; beyond that I'm a great advocate of tuning with a vacuum guage.


    If you can find a port in the manifold to hook up a vacuum guage it's so much easier to get timing/mixture etc. sorted, bearing in mind fuel properties have changed so much since these cars were built.

  14. 7 hours ago, padgett said:

    So light weight, low rpm, flat torque curve, not much HP/cid. Doubt that MPG is that great.


    Correct - having said that, with fuel injection and engine management systems plus the ability to lean out the mixture in cruise they`re not too bad.

  15. 2 hours ago, gossp said:

    8:1 and can run on Mid-grade. 


    And the thing about (light)  aircraft engines in the main, is that max rpm is generally around 2700 - 2800 and for cruise 2300 - 2500. Typical Cessna/Piper run 160 - 180hp, so overall they are pretty low stressed engines, the design emphasis is really on big bore, big torque and low revs, not forgetting that a boxer configuration makes it easier to cowl and streamline. 


    Different story when you get into turbocharged and higher output engines, using 98/100 octane low lead. 


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