hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. 10 hours ago, Bloo said:

     

    No condenser used for points even approaches those values. I don't expect that will work well. I can't remember offhand what is typical, but I could believe the 0.2 - 0.3uf mentioned earlier in this thread.

     

     

    You CAN be off, and it will run, but if you are the points will burn up right away with contact damage that looks like a mountain. Metal transfers from one point to another. You can tell whether the capacitance (uf) is too high or too low by which point has the mountain on it. Old service manuals like Motor or Chilton have pictures of this. RPM affects it, so driving habits play a part. If a car runs ok, and there is no metal transfer on the old points, I don't change the condenser.

     

    a173207.jpg

     

     

    Yep you got me there, but my point really was just try another condenser,  save messing with the multi meter. 

    • Like 2

  2. 3 hours ago, 37DodgeSedan said:

    My multimeter is digital and shows 1 when separate and 0 when the leads are touched together. I had the ohm setting for 20000k which internet searching yielded comments to choose the highest setting. I thought I could energize the condenser from the multimeter by black lead to condenser body and red lead to the detached power lead from the coil. this should have caused a change in ohms over a 15-20 sec interval and then reverse leads to discharge. However, no change occurred at all. I will try the method stated by Trini tomorrow and provide an update.

     

    Or perhaps just spend a buck or two on a new condenser (20 - 30 uf)  and hook it up as Trini says anywhere on the distributor, so long as it's in the primary circuit to the points.  Saves messing around with the multi meter. 

    ,


  3. Aand of course what everyone keeps forgetting is the fuels today are light years away from that available when those cars were built. The issue of having a starting mixture that's vaporizing enough when it's cold will always be a problem, there's little relevance in what happened when "Dad" owned the car back in the day.


  4. Have you considered just moving the plug wires to suit proper firing order, if as you say you're 180 out, just swap the wires  from  1 to 4 etc.

     

    Reading your  problem again, were you in fact at TDC #4 instead of TDC #1 when you viewed those timing marks, remember the cam turns  at 1/2 crank speed 


  5. 1 hour ago, plymouthcranbrook said:

    The carb icing had not crossed what mind I have left even though I have dealt with it in the distant past. I am using the original oil bath air cleaner. Do you think that this could contribute to the problem by allowing a longer and perhaps faster Venturi effect? I will look and see if I can see any icing this weekend. I didn’t think it would be cold enough for that to occur yet although with Lake Michigan about two miles east humidity is often an issue here. Thanks for the idea.  What have you done if this is the problem to help minimize it?

     

    The oil bath cleaner is not significant, the issue really centres around the throttle plate area, the laws of physics dictate that a venturi affect, small throttle opening, moist air and the chill effect of vaporising fuel create the ideal conditions for ice to form and build up around the throttle plate, this will only last as long as the combination of the above effects prevail.

     

    What changes these conditions is warmer air around the throttle plate as the engine itself warms up, a combination of manifold heat plus warmer under hood air entering the carb intake.

     

    You mention not being cold enough, the fact is that the temperature of the air will drop rapidly as it passes through the venturi (physics again) with a moisture (humidity) content carrying the necessary icing component, I reiterate that the ideal conditions are about 10 - 20 degrees ambient above freezing to 5 - 10 degrees below freezing, the humidity content is a major influence in this range  In fact in the Arctic the problem isn't as bad simply because the air is dryer, certainly colder but dryer thus no moisture to freeze.

     

    So what  to do; the easiest thing is introduce some warm air into the air cleaner intake. I have (a not very pretty) flexible duct with one end just above the exhaust manifold and the other pushed into the air cleaner nozzle. With an oil bath cleaner this isn't easy to do, but I have seen where someone drilled some holes in the upper out side of the casing and fashioned a fixture to accept a piece of flex duct to the side of the air cleaner, again not pretty. With this approach of course, you don't want it there when the weather warms up as the other laws of physics could lead to detonation with the intake of too much hot air.

     

    Finally, forgetting about the physics, just live with the problem and adapt your driving to accommodate it. In all of the above of course, your problem might not be icing at all !!

    • Like 1

  6. 5 hours ago, Ben Bruce aka First Born said:

     

      Carb icing up?

     

      Ben

     

    Exactly what I was thinking , classic symptom.

     

    First few minutes of running causes a large chill factor across the throttle plate,  due to  low pressure and high velocities through the venturi, mix this with cold fuel, cool air and moisture you've

    created a perfect refrigeration effect.

     

    As the manifold and carb base warm up the symptoms disappear,  modern fuels are part of the problem as they are more prone to this condition. 

     

    If you are able; first start of the morning feel the carb base on and off for a minute or two, you will feel the chill as it happens, in severe cases you can actually see an ice ring form around the carb base on the outside.

     

    Without wanting to bang on too much, throttle ice is most likely to occur 10 to 15 degrees ambient  above freezing point and is influenced by the moisture content in the air, any of you aviators reading this will know what I'm talking about. 

    • Like 1

  7. 21 hours ago, Buffalowed Bill said:

    The discussion here assumes that there are new bearings are available for the application. In the case of the Ford new bearings are available, but in a broader sense there are some cars that become derelict because inserts don't exist. Case in point of real world concert for those of us who own 1936-42 Studebaker Presidents. Insert bearings for this engine have not been available for years, and that's how long some people have been looking for them. In this case trying to piece together a bottom end from parts from another engine beats the alternatives. 

     

    The fact remains that if you fit bearings that don't conform precisely to the crankshaft dimensions then you have every chance of damaging the crankshaft, and then you're back to where you started. 


  8. 3 hours ago, AHa said:

    All of this looks to be in good shape and working order. Of course anything is possible but there are no visible cracks in the top housing and the float seems to work perfectly. Although I threatened to roll the car out in the yard for the guy to come pick it up, I didn't have the heart to do it and it has resided in dry storage. It was running when it was parked, I don't understand why I'm having this problem? The motor fired right up after setting 11 years and purred like a kitten.

     

    Okay,  but as stated above what about the valves and vents in the top housing? 


  9. On 9/13/2019 at 9:46 AM, Frank Wilkie said:

    I have a 1954 Chry N.Y. 331 v8. I'm trying to replace my water temperature sensor. It does disconnect at the sensor by unthreading the nut disconnecting  the flared tube fitting.. As I ask about a new one it seems that several has mentioned that the original sensor was affixed to the tube and directly with the dash gauge.  Is this correct..  I have the original dash gauge but like I said , it unscrews off of the sensor.   I need to just replace the sensor. Does anyone know where I can purchase one?

     

    As Tom has said, the sensor to gauge is a sealed unit. If you break any of the connections the enclosed fluid will escape  and it's really a specialist job to repair, or if you are an industrial chemist, avery tricky job.


  10. 38 minutes ago, AHa said:

    In the past I have heard people say you have to seal the gaskets with shellac. would this help?

     

    The critical areas for these tanks are the top housing, which usually develop cracks or warp and, the seating of the valves in the upper housing , along with the springs and fulcrum levers etc.


  11. 2 hours ago, Phillip Robinson said:

    Thanks for replies. I suppose the question is just a general question for any engine. In this case, crankshaft reground and from a different motor. Having a look at different web sites to see about bearings being damaged, and thus not usable. Adds about $500 more to motor repair.

     

    Okay,  having had the crankshaft reground would mean the bearings actually need  to match the newly machined crankshaft pin dimensions. ie you're probably needing specific under size bearing shells. Using second hand bearings in this instance would undo the money you've just invested in the crankshaft. 

    • Like 2

  12. 23 hours ago, Phillip Robinson said:

    Is it wise to use second hand bearings for the crankshaft. I have 3 sets of old , used bearings, for a 4 cylinder ford flat motor. What is accepted as being the best idea, new or used, for 75 year old motor.

     

    Depends on the clearances and existing wear patterns of shaft and bearings.

    If you're just putting together pieces that have been disassembled from the same location, not a problem, if you have part wornn bearings and crank pins that need just a light polish/linish, not a problem; beyond these parameters not such a good idea. 


  13. 4 hours ago, Batwing-eight said:

    Has anyone had experience, good or bad, with removing the thermostat-controlled exhaust manifold "butterfly" used in vintage cars to redirect exhaust gas to warm the intake manifold upon start-up? Obviously, there's benefit in warming the incoming fuel/air mix when the motor's cold, but it's also likely impossible to completely close-off the heating after the motor reaches operating temperature, thus increasing the chance of vapor lock and hard starting. That butterfly also places some restriction in the exhaust flow. Leave it in or remove it? Bill.

     

     

    Dammned if you do, dammned if you dont.

     

    It might come down to where you are living. In a cold climate it will certainly reduces the potential for throttle ice, in a hot climate it raises the potential for vaporizing; so perhaps it's the toss of a coin ?


  14. 3 hours ago, Frank DuVal said:

    I use a Mighty - Vac all the time to bleed brakes. I have also used the pop bottle (soda bottle) and rubber hose method (aka one man bleeder) with good results.👍

     

    How you say? When the bleed screw threads are loose in the cylinder/caliper, I put PTFE tape on them. And it is more common today than in years past. Most every new bleeder screw is undersized threads ( or cylinder/caliper is oversized). 

     

    I know there are anti-PTFE tape people out there, of course due to seeing botched PTFE tape applications over the years, but it works for me. Just apply to the threads, keeping clear of the hole through the side of the bleed screw. One does not want to induce PTFE bits into the hydraulic parts of the brake system!

     

    PTFE - Teflon (R DuPont)😉

     

    Gravity bleeding (the opening of all or one at a time bleed screws at cylinder/caliper with top of maser cylinder removed) only works well if the master cylinder reservoir is above the bleed screws by a foot or so. Frame mounted masters make this difficult! Masters mounted high on the firewall do pretty good. ABS systems, not at all!

     

    Even a little grease on the threads of the bleed screw will help prevent air getting sucked back in. 


  15. On 8/29/2019 at 2:40 AM, Plyroadking said:

    My '40 had the same issue, finally traced it to the butterfly shaft being so worn that I was sucking air around it.

     

    Worn throttle throttle shaft bushes will normally show up as a cause for weak mixture, can't see that as a cause for fast idle.


  16. 9 hours ago, erock194 said:

    Can't get Idle to come down. Even with the linkage disconnected it won't idle lower. Original flathead. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

    Are you stuck on fast idle with the choke mechanism ?


  17. Valves would be at the top of my list, check clearances first looking for a tight one possibly not fully closing.  Beyond that,  maybe find a quiet spot and slowly hand turn the engine listening for a leak during compression at intake and exhaust, obviously a helper would be good. Alternatively make a fitting from an old spark plug connect it to a compressor,  bring each  cylinder up to TDC one at a time and put some air into each cylinder, again listening for leaks at intake and exhaust. 

    • Like 2

  18. Having rebuilt and installed the Auto clutch on my CB Chrysler, my recommendation to you is leave yours on the shelf.

     

    Perhaps you can take it down every so often, dust it, admire it, maybe even show it to your buddies as a conversation starter at you next BBQ, then put it back on the shelf where it belongs. 😉