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Posts posted by hchris

  1. Not wanting to rain on your parade, but I noticed the mention of a honeycomb radiator.


    If its original, you may experience overheating next summer as they are almost impossible to clean out, perhaps now that its running you may want to get the engine up to temp and see if it remains cool.


    Better to check it out now than be stuck somewhere in the heat of summer.


    Lovely find by the way, envy overload ;)

  2. You don't say what year your engine is, post 1935/6 most of the Mopar engines introduced a distribution cooling tube behind the water pump which were designed to enhance coolant flow around the valve seats, they are notorious for corroding out with resultant lack of cooling in this area of the block


    Compressions look reasonable (I`m assuming this is an older engine), if you had a leak between cylinders I would expect a larger variation in compression figures.


    At what stage are you assessing the plugs - idling in the driveway ? after a lengthy run ?


    Describe "wettish / foul" - are you talking oily wet or coolant wet ? 


    Can you determine the flow volume with the radiator cap off ?


    Is the ignition timing correct ?

  3. 1 hour ago, OldMoparNutMONTE Harmon said:


    I nearly bought this car 40 years ago. At that time the engine was in pieces. I let the deal go, and found the car again last year. 

    I bought it in April. It had been put back together and had not run for 20 years. The engine was reported to have been rebuilt.

    Long story short, , I bought it as is. I got it running,no knocks, but it

    had little or no oil pressure.  A quick check of the usual suspects turned up nothing. I took the oil pump out, the old gear type. 

    i had a newer type rotary pump, but it is too short for this engine. I ended up using the longer shaft in the rotary pump. Back

    in the car, i could now get 15-20 PSI oil pressure. Not enough! Ended up pulling the oil pan. found a cracked fitting on the

    supply tube to the pressure relief valve. Aha! fixed that up, no difference. While I was in there, I plasti-gauged one of the mains.

    .003" clearance. I think it should have been half of that. At this point, I think it will have to come out and apart. I have a good

    running engine that came out of a 50 or so Dodge.My idea was to put it in as a temp while i check the  original. Wanted to see if 

    anyone else has done this?


    Sorry, if you go down that road prepare yourself for a lot of frustrating work, ask me how I know.

  4. 16 hours ago, keiser31 said:

    Have an alignment guy check the wedges on the axle. My 1931 had two on each spring and one on each side was broken. Why they had two on each side is still a mystery. Now there is only one on each side and it goes down the road perfectly.


    Keisers the man ;)

  5. Not many; because these were the last of the exposed water jacket engines, you need pre 33 / 34 Dodge/Plym/Des/Chry engines otherwise you will be messing around with clutch housing / starter mounting and then trans cross members and so on.


    Essentially your engine, because of the rear block water jacket configuration, has the starter motor mounted close in to the block, so if you try a later flat sided engine (full water jacket) you will have to use a matching clutch housing which then means different gear box and mountings. etc. 

  6. 6 hours ago, CHendry said:

    Ok, need some help. Today we replaced all of the spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, condenser on distributor,  new wires to distributor, new wire to generator....still no spark. Any thoughts?


    With points closed and ignition turned on, using a fine screwdriver, lever the point open and closed; do you have a spark at the points ??

  7. 1 hour ago, Leeroy said:

    Anyone is South Australia have any idea's on who I can go to?


     There was a guy somewhere around the Meadows area (Wayne Hocking was his name) who welded a steel band, from large diameter steel tube, onto the exterior of the drum and  and then machined back  to original dimensions. Don't know if he`s still at it but worth tracking him down perhaps.


    Another person is Graham Goode in Clare who has a restoration business, I think he was a customer of Hocking.


    Chris H 

    • Like 1

  8. 21 hours ago, markpb said:

    Thank you very much indeed. I will try at 1.5lbs.  (Yes, fuel tank at back- of chassis - so starvation on hills as you explained makes perfect sense to me!)


     Not forgetting that vac tanks are reliant on vacuum, their big downfall on long or uphill gradients are the lack of vacuum with large throttle openings associated with driving uphill, some manufacturers provided larger capacity vac tanks to increase the storage capacity to diminish the problem.


    And yes, any updraft carb designed with vac tank feed will struggle with pressures above 1.5 psi.

  9. From what I can see from your photos, that engine doesn't look too bad, unless you gave it a good scrub up prior to the photos. With 70 psi on the other cylinders I wouldnt get too excited about the valves, they are obviously doing an ok job of sealing and yes you may have a tired engine, but I would first concentrate on the head and gasket.


    As to other things; the scratch in the bore - can you feel a groove or scratch by running a finger nail across it, as a general rule if your nail doesn't snag on it then its not too bad. Is it an oil burner ? are the plugs fouled ? is there any audible knocking from the engine whilst running ? if you get past these items I wouldn't go throwing a lot of money at this engine, they are pretty bullet proof, but head cracks are a common feature.


    Check the head for cracks, machine a few thou to get it flat and put a new gasket in, then see how it goes,not a lot of time or money to invest.