hchris

Members
  • Content Count

    823
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by hchris


  1. Ok, if you have the old loom out and intact ,there is an old rodders method of building up new looms.

     

    From the nearest hardware store grab a few rolls of poly clothes line, run various lengths to match existing wires, label them, then run them through the chassis / body fixings and build up a replica loom; once you are happy with positioning and room for terminations, remove the fake loom, lay it out then reproduce each length in "real" wire and install it.

     

    It might seem a lengthy process, but you can afford to make a mistake or two running clothes line until you get it right rather than cutting expensive wire and having to redo it.


  2. Oh my !! yes you do have a problem or two.

     

    My approach, with the aid of the wiring diagram, would be to start a systematic chase of each wire from under the dash, so perhaps start with the lighting switch, look at the diagram, see how many and which path each wire takes and follow it through from switch to light, marking / labelling each wire as you go, then say instrument wires, ignition switch wires etc.and so on.  Laborious i know but at least you will map out a path for the correct wiring, then focus on what needs replacing and after that, do the troubleshooting if it hasnt already been fixed.

     

    At the end of the day cars of this era were fairly simple in terms of wiring, think about what your needs were, lights, horn, instruments, starter, ignition, battery, generator and control and thats about it; work through each system one at a time and you will get there. Good luck and keep asking questions.

     

    My memory for the DP is that the main loom passes from under the dash out through the bulkhead on the drivers side, it splits off to the starter, distributor, generator and control box in the engine bay; the main loom continues through the drivers side chassis rail to the lh headlight, under the front cross  member to the rh headlight, oh and the horn wires run under the cross member as well, then down through the right chassis rail to tail lights and fuel sender unit.


  3. For someone who has so much wiring experience i am surprised at your focus on the  "negative earth" aspect of your electrical system, as others have said there is no difference in wiring a negative or positive ground system. 

     

    The fact that you have a 6 volt system does make a difference in your choice of wire guage, there are many on line sources which will give you this info, but typically 12g for the feed wires and 14g for the receiver wires is the norm; battery / starter cables need to be heavier.

     

    I suspect your high / low beam issue is most likely to be a bad earth somewhere in your lighting wiring.


  4. 16 hours ago, reflections said:

    Has anybody put disc brakes on a 1934 chrysler CA and what was the biggest motor that was on the CA chrysler chassis. Thanks

     

    No and I would ask why would you want to fit discs ?

     

    Biggest original engine is the one that came with it 241.5ci. The problem you will find, if you are considering a later side valve engine, is the configuration of block, bell housing and starter motor.

     

    Up to 1934 Chrysler had the exposed water jacket block, this dictates the starter placement, bell housing shape and clutch / transmission mounts / links,.without major re fabrication of mounts etc. any later engine wont fit.


  5. Certainly would not be the first cracked block i`ve seen for this era Chry / Dodge / Des. and probably not the last, they all had a known weakness in these areas, 6 cylinders as well.

     

    As others have said, looks like an older professional job, probably done when these repairs were common place by someone who knew what they were doing; leave it alone until it becomes a problem, that said, it probably wont be in your lifetime. :)

    • Like 1

  6. OK plenty of arguments re 6v or 12v; but in the first post as I read it the issue was no spark.

     

    Without a spark you wont have to worry about the starter, generator wiring etc.because you cant get the engine to run, so perhaps one thing at a time and as I understand it getting a spark would be the first priority ??


  7. 3 minutes ago, Tinindian said:

    retiredmechanic74  Your trouble shooting advice was very good but some of your facts are wrong.  Dodge for one used 12 volts in the teens and twenties as well as some others and 24 volts was also used in that era.

    Why would you change a 6 volt system to 12 volts unless you were adding accessories.  6 or 12 volts will do the same work only 6 volts require more amps.

     

    Points taken, but here I am just going through the excercise of electrical continuity, it doesnt matter at this stage whether the coil is 6 or 12 volt.


  8. OK, the trigger to the coil is via the points in the distributor. If you dont have a spark across the points the coil wont fire, whilst you may have power at the coil it needs to flow though the points and back to the coil to create a high voltage spark. So power at the coil is only one half of the solution.


  9. OK if I can chime in, at this stage dont worry too much about the 6v versus 12v, find out why there is no spark;  you will get spark with either voltage.

     

    See that white wire coming into the distributor, that carries current form the ignition switch to the contact breakers (points) you first need to determine if you have power at that wire with the ignition turned on, a test lamp or volt meter will quickly establish this.

     

    If you have power there, the next thing to do is hand turn the motor to a position where the points are closed, then with the ignition turned on, with a small screw driver manually lever the points open, you should see a small spark at the points, the spark wont be too bright so you may have to throw a cover over the area to keep it dim if you are out in the sunlight.

     

    If you dont have a spark at this point you can start by running a piece of emery or fine file between the contact points to make a clean electrical contact surface, if that doesnt work you  need to back track through the wiring to find out why; the coil will not produce a spark without this circuit being complete.

     

    If you do have a spark at the points then we can move onto the coil wiring, but first do this bit, its the most likely cause of your troubles.


  10. Amongst other things you might want to check the carb float height, too high will give you over rich,  too low the opposite.

     

    Have a look at the plugs after a lengthy idle period, if it`s really too rich there will be black sooty deposits on the plugs.


  11. Not wanting to rain on your parade, but I noticed the mention of a honeycomb radiator.

     

    If its original, you may experience overheating next summer as they are almost impossible to clean out, perhaps now that its running you may want to get the engine up to temp and see if it remains cool.

     

    Better to check it out now than be stuck somewhere in the heat of summer.

     

    Lovely find by the way, envy overload ;)