hchris

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Posts posted by hchris


  1. 9 hours ago, wangwilko said:

    . I also would like to know about the shackle that attaches to the rear leaf spring and chassis, does it only use the metal bushing screwed into the leaf spring eye or should there be a bushing. I was thinking it would wear metal on metal, but maybe the internal thread and shackle do the moving which can be lubricated. I would appreciate any help or assistance. Thanks Peter (Australia)

     

    These bushes are metal to metal, and fit either end of the spring hanger. One piece threads into the eye of the spring another threads over it, the same goes for the hanger/chassis end, grease nipples are in the bush ends; when assembled the two bush pieces turn inside each other as the hangers pivot back and forth. They are common on all Mopar vehicles from the 30`s to 60`s, however there are various sizes depending on the specific vehicles.

     

    Removing and installing these bushes is quite challenging, particularly getting the inner and outer pieces in the correct position on the hanger, and in the spring eye, if you have never done this job before you would be best advised to seek help. If you are downunder you might try Jim Robinson in Maryborough Vic. 03 54614619 for supplies


  2. On ‎11‎/‎05‎/‎2017 at 11:24 AM, daledon said:

    I bought a 58 coronet. I turn on the headlights, and I have none. Turn on park lights they work fine. Could the light switch be bad. I guess there is no fuse anywhere, that I can find. Thanks Don

     

    Not a fuse as such, but a bimetallic switch built into the headlight switch. If there is a short circuit in the headlight wiring, the switch heats up and opens contacts to prevent burnt wiring.

     

    Don't forget the floor mounted dipper switch is in the circuit as well, have you tried turning on headlights and activating the dipper switch to see what happens ?


  3. 7 hours ago, broker-len said:

    I thought is was rich-------this is the carb with the adjustment under the bowl       I run it fast idle  then turn it in until it slows then back  out-------maybe bad neidle and seat ?????

     

    Not sure which carb you are talking about; if it idles ok and runs smooth enough at low revs then its probably not an idle mixture problem. From what I understand you are bogging down at higher revs ? going into second ? if so this would indicate a main metering jet problem. 

     

    So, I suggest you have a fiddle with the lower adjustment and see if this improves things, if not then you may have needle and seat problems or perhaps a float setting issue; it would help if there was a little more background info, such as when this first started, you say the carb was rebuilt - has this fault occurred immediately after it was rebuilt?

     

    As to the distributor being t fault, certainly could be the cause of not wanting to accelerate, but it wont give you black sooty plugs, that's a carb issue - perhaps you have more than one problem??

     

    I would start with the carb first off.


  4. 3 hours ago, broker-len said:

    this is a model PA     motor rebuilt    new pistons and valves   adjusted valves when I got it home  head checked for being true  new head gasket    running a carter BB1 updraft carb  I just rebuilt      I believe it is timed correct     compression is   60 in all holes  wires are old but see no signs of arching--cap shows no arcking---put a vacuum gage on wiper port and it is pulsing        if I clean  the plugs they get dark right away        when driving it    can't get out of second  no power   point are gaped correctly                 what do you think-------bobnroman@yahoo.com

     

    Dark plugs would indicate an over rich mixture, hence carb issues, which could be faulty choke, stuck float, etc. 


  5. 1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

    Is there any place on the Dodge six engine where you can tell if the oil passages are actually full?  Some point where oil will appear if you're forcing oil into the gauge line, maybe in the lifter galley?  

     

    If you haven't got it at the guage outlet then it wont be anywhere else, take the pump off (not a big job) and prime it before refitting. Don't forget to get the timing right before removal ;)


  6. 1 hour ago, Taylormade said:

    The engine was completely rebuilt, so the oil,pump should be in good shape - no missing teeth or gear problems.  After several more attempts with no success, it's obvious I'm going to,have to pressure feed the oil lines from the oil gauge feed connection as you folks have suggested.  I'm amazed a turkey baster can force the oil in with sufficient force.  I was going to make a pressurized tank out of industrial grade PVC, fill it with oil, then pressurize to 40 pounds and inject the oil under pressure into the journals.  I know, I know, PVC and air pressure don't mix, but at 40 pounds I should be okay.

     

    Yes, the design of the Dodge pumps really dictate that they should be primed before installation, as suggested you might try back priming through the guage fitting, and I really wouldn't be starting it until I saw some pressure.


  7. 14 hours ago, bypass said:
    
    Hi
    
    First I have to thank everyone for the help.

     

    About the tightening,

     

    In Richasco´s information, says 60-65 lbs, but I think that this head (silver dome) have to be re-tighten, when the engine is "hot", and here I don´t know what tightening must give...

     

     

    About the oil,

     

    I'm going to remove and clean the oil pan.  

     

    I had already bought the Millerol M30 (non detergent), because I read that engines without oil filter only must use non detergent:

     

    http://www.millersoils.co.uk/automotive/tds-automotive.asp?prodsegmentID=164&sector=Classics

     

    but now I'm very confused....because there are opinions that, non-detergent, reduce the life of the engine...I 

     

    Thanks

     

     

     

     

    You know if you are 15 years of age, going to keep this car for the rest of your life and use it as a daily driver on the freeway, then you could justifiably be concerned over oils.

    The fact is that today almost any oil is way improved over what was available back in the 20`s, you will have a better chance of finding who lives on Mars than a definitive answer on "which is the best oil". Choose a quality brand 20w40 (assuming you`re not in an extreme climate environment), change it regularly and worry about the important things in life.


  8. As with all things from T J Richards of this period, you will find that there are many subtle differences between US and Aus. production; your vehicle is not uncommon down here, do a search on some of the Aus. related websites.

     

    Sadly there are very few records of TJ`s production numbers, but if you do a search on Richards, there are a number of good books on their auto manufacturing history with associated photos.  


  9. 8 hours ago, grouchyandugly said:

    hchris......got my bright flashlight, then looked under the dash, driver's side & the passenger side.

    can/could not find/locate that "regulator".....even checked in the glovebox.....next I searched

    in the engine compartment....not there.  there is a voltage regulator in the engine compartment,

    is this the one I need to check out ?

    stay safe

    thanks

    G&U

    DSCF2555.JPG

     

     

    Nope, the instrument voltage stabiliser would be about the size of your thumb (or smaller) and I would guess it would be attached to the rear of the instrument panel. If you can see the temp and/or fuel guage connectors, trace the wires back from them, it will be close by.

     

    I would try and remove, or at least, ease back the instrument panel to have a look; you will probably need to unscrew the speedo cable connector off of the speedo to allow you to wriggle the instrument panel forward far enough to see behind it, oh, and disconnect  the battery beforehand just in case their are some wires that come adrift.


  10. 1 hour ago, grouchyandugly said:

    oh well, it is still better than what we have on cars today.......however, (hate that word), article says nothing about

    if gauges are not working; too low, too high, intermittent (like me brain).......will crawl under there and see

    how easy it is to find/work on though, give me something to do.

    stay safe

    thanks

    G&U

     

    Well it stands to reason that if the regulator is not being powered then none of the gauges will work. My first port of call would be to check if the regulator has power to it.


  11. Take the lead off the tank sender unit and touch briefly to good ground with power on, careful of sparks. The guage should go full deflection towards full; if so guage is good and problem is the sender or sender poorly earthed, if not most probably guage is bad.


  12. 4 hours ago, Chuck Tipton said:

    Hello, just joined this forum. I am looking for a hood for a 1934 chrysler ca 4 door sedan or info on interchange with dodge or plymouth cant seem to find a lot of info on this chrysler, thanks for any help, Chuck

    34 DR Dodge will do, but the side louvres are different, so depends which bits you are wanting.


  13. Yes, the method you describe in the first post will work.

     

    As already stated, turning the crank back will allow the timing chain to slacken a little, wont damage anything but next time you turn it forward the slack will have to be taken up again, and, during this small amount of crank travel, the cam will remain stationary.

     

    I`m with Rusty, why second guess what the engineers designed, set the clearances as per specs.

    • Like 1

  14. I did notice that after running for some time, gas was coming out of the pipe leading to the engine flooding it.

     

    I`m confused by this, are you referring to the pipe between the vac tank to carb ? and this occurs with the engine running ?


  15. 11 hours ago, dwollam said:

    Are you sure it is a carb problem and not the vacuum tank? If the float in the vacuum tank is bad it will over fill the tank and gas will be sucked into the engine through the vacuum line directly into the engine. Plugging the vent tube on the vacuum tank will do that too.

    If you read the original problem, the carb is flooding whilst the engine is not running, that would eliminate the vac tank.


  16. On ‎1‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 2:46 PM, GaryP65 said:

    Needle has good taper, no grooves. I need to look at the seat.

     

    So in looking at the diagram, it looks like the seat unscrews, correct? Is this the 'collar' mentioned above?

    Also, there is a collar that the weights are attached to on the needle. Is this soldered to the needle?

     

    i think i will flip the levers but how are the pins attached? Are they just pressed in?

    You will note that the "valve seat" screws into the bottom of the bowl, unscrew this and put a thin washer or gasket under the seat and screw it back in again; by doing this you have raised the point at which the needle comes into contact with the seat, effectively lowering the fuel level in the bowl.

     

    The other option as suggested is to take out the pivot pins for the balance levers and reinsert the levers up side down; you will probably see wear marks on the small ends of the balance levers, this has the effect of lost leverage on the float which consequently allows the float to rise too far and cause flooding, reversing the position of these levers may solve the problem.

    • Like 1

  17. 4 hours ago, carbking said:

    Jay is correct about the fulcrum levers.

     

    The original method of adjusting the float was:

     

    (1) use a burette gauge to determine the fuel level in the bowl

    (2) compare the fuel level in the bowl to the main discharge jet

    (3) remove the bowl cover

    (4) remove the fuel valve

    (5) measure the distance from the collar to the top of the valve

    (6) remove the solder on the collar

    (7) reposition the collar

    (8) resolder the collar

    (9) repeat 1 through 9 as necessary

     

    Being the lazy individual that I am, I came up with an alternate method of simply changing the thickness of the gasket under the fuel valve seat as necessary.

     

    I also produced a few fuel valve/collar arrangements with a threaded collar that could be adjusted, and then set in place by a drop of blue loctite.

     

    The gasket thickness trick will work. Just make certain there is no groove in the valve and/or no foreign material on the tip of the valve.

     

    Jon.

     

    So glad you chimed in Jon, I now remember doing the solder thing many moons ago on my Maxwell; washers under the seat would be the way to go. ;)


  18. First of all you need to get the float setting right as its position obviously affects mixture. Not sure on the "how to" adjust the arms, looking at the schematic I imagine there is a way to adjust the levers at the top of the bowl cover, shouldn't be too hard to find the details with a search on the net. 


  19. If I`m not mistaken, we are confusing one adjustment with another, the needle and rack adjustment is all about setting correct mixture whilst running.

     

    My take on the problem presented, is that fuel is running out of the carb bowl whilst the engine is stationary,  if this is the case then the fault lies within the needle and seat in the float bowl, either the needle and seat are worn or the float setting is too high, causing the fuel to continue siphoning from the vac tank with the engine stopped.

     

    As I recall, the fix for this is to adjust the float arms in the carb bowl.

     

    ps: it could also be a sinking float, if the float has a hole in it, fuel will fill the float and sink to the bottom of the bowl, and then there is no way that the needle can be held closed to stop fuel running into the bowl. To test the float, remove from the carb and drop it into a container of hot water, if there is a hole, the heat will open it up and the float will fill and sink.