hchris
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Posts posted by hchris
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Yes, the method you describe in the first post will work.
As already stated, turning the crank back will allow the timing chain to slacken a little, wont damage anything but next time you turn it forward the slack will have to be taken up again, and, during this small amount of crank travel, the cam will remain stationary.
I`m with Rusty, why second guess what the engineers designed, set the clearances as per specs.
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I did notice that after running for some time, gas was coming out of the pipe leading to the engine flooding it.
I`m confused by this, are you referring to the pipe between the vac tank to carb ? and this occurs with the engine running ?
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Sorry I don't see one single piece on that car that looks remotely like a Plymouth.
Plymouth U motors did not have a water pump but relied on a thermo siphon cooling system.
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11 hours ago, dwollam said:
Are you sure it is a carb problem and not the vacuum tank? If the float in the vacuum tank is bad it will over fill the tank and gas will be sucked into the engine through the vacuum line directly into the engine. Plugging the vent tube on the vacuum tank will do that too.
If you read the original problem, the carb is flooding whilst the engine is not running, that would eliminate the vac tank.
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On 1/02/2017 at 2:46 PM, GaryP65 said:
Needle has good taper, no grooves. I need to look at the seat.
So in looking at the diagram, it looks like the seat unscrews, correct? Is this the 'collar' mentioned above?
Also, there is a collar that the weights are attached to on the needle. Is this soldered to the needle?
i think i will flip the levers but how are the pins attached? Are they just pressed in?
You will note that the "valve seat" screws into the bottom of the bowl, unscrew this and put a thin washer or gasket under the seat and screw it back in again; by doing this you have raised the point at which the needle comes into contact with the seat, effectively lowering the fuel level in the bowl.
The other option as suggested is to take out the pivot pins for the balance levers and reinsert the levers up side down; you will probably see wear marks on the small ends of the balance levers, this has the effect of lost leverage on the float which consequently allows the float to rise too far and cause flooding, reversing the position of these levers may solve the problem.
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Solid core wire is for housing etc. simply not flexible enough for auto wiring, and yes it will work harden and break over time with vibration.
Quote.
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4 hours ago, carbking said:
Jay is correct about the fulcrum levers.
The original method of adjusting the float was:
(1) use a burette gauge to determine the fuel level in the bowl
(2) compare the fuel level in the bowl to the main discharge jet
(3) remove the bowl cover
(4) remove the fuel valve
(5) measure the distance from the collar to the top of the valve
(6) remove the solder on the collar
(7) reposition the collar
(8) resolder the collar
(9) repeat 1 through 9 as necessary
Being the lazy individual that I am, I came up with an alternate method of simply changing the thickness of the gasket under the fuel valve seat as necessary.
I also produced a few fuel valve/collar arrangements with a threaded collar that could be adjusted, and then set in place by a drop of blue loctite.
The gasket thickness trick will work. Just make certain there is no groove in the valve and/or no foreign material on the tip of the valve.
Jon.
So glad you chimed in Jon, I now remember doing the solder thing many moons ago on my Maxwell; washers under the seat would be the way to go.
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First of all you need to get the float setting right as its position obviously affects mixture. Not sure on the "how to" adjust the arms, looking at the schematic I imagine there is a way to adjust the levers at the top of the bowl cover, shouldn't be too hard to find the details with a search on the net.
Have a look at this, it might help you along.
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First of all you need to get the float setting right as its position obviously affects mixture. Not sure on the "how to" adjust the arms, looking at the schematic I imagine there is a way to adjust the levers at the top of the bowl cover, shouldn't be too hard to find the details with a search on the net.
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If I`m not mistaken, we are confusing one adjustment with another, the needle and rack adjustment is all about setting correct mixture whilst running.
My take on the problem presented, is that fuel is running out of the carb bowl whilst the engine is stationary, if this is the case then the fault lies within the needle and seat in the float bowl, either the needle and seat are worn or the float setting is too high, causing the fuel to continue siphoning from the vac tank with the engine stopped.
As I recall, the fix for this is to adjust the float arms in the carb bowl.
ps: it could also be a sinking float, if the float has a hole in it, fuel will fill the float and sink to the bottom of the bowl, and then there is no way that the needle can be held closed to stop fuel running into the bowl. To test the float, remove from the carb and drop it into a container of hot water, if there is a hole, the heat will open it up and the float will fill and sink.
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Or plug / blank off the vac feed line from the manifold.
Amend that
was thinking of the vacuumatic clutch.
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8 minutes ago, maok said:
Thoroughly recommend these, have used them myself and found the clarity and brilliance fabulous; to the extent I often have people who have driven behind me ask where I got the bulbs; and yes available in both polarities.
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4 hours ago, gregchrysler said:
Help me again I have a 49 Chrysler 251 cc single barrel carb that works fine on idle and when I rev up engine gets a loud pop. Firing order ok all cylinders firing sounds fantastic til I rev it up. New rebuilt carb on it any ideas
Lean mixture it sounds like; as well as the other answers, there might be an air leak through the carb base gasket or inlet manifold gasket; perhaps re tension all the mount bolts / nuts ?
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3 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:
found out that the valve seat on valve number one was nonexistent and therefore the valve was not seating
Bingo, just what the vac guage behaviour was displaying.
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3 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:
I believe all cylinders are firing properly however cylinder 1 has very little compression.
Alright, now we might be on to something. The thing of significance is the #1 low compression, the vac guage is never going to be steady if you have a large variation in any cylinder compressions, this would have been a tell tale pointer from the get go had you mentioned it in the beginning. To develop full power and smooth running you need to have minimal variation between all cylinder compression readings.
So with that in mind how low is low, do you know what the compression pressure is on #1 cylinder ?
Just off the cuff, an incorrectly set valve clearance (or leaking valve due to poor seating) will give you wild vacuum fluctuations, and low compression. So a question to be answered, were the valve clearances adjusted after the timing chain / gear episode ?
7 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:I am not sure what you mean by the vacuum numbers
The numbers on the guage face, I was trying to establish what range the needle of the guage was moving to / from in vacuum reading not psi. So would I be right in assuming the guage is bouncing from one end of the scale to the other at steady idle rpm ? OK don't answer this I re read your earlier post.
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8 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:
By putting my finger over the hole I can feel air being sucked in and maybe blownout.
I don't understand where this hole is ?
And yes we are a little confused at your references of psi and vacuum, it would be easier if you just tell us the vacuum numbers.
Also I am curious as to where you have the guage hooked up.
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10 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:
The gauge needle is constantly moving at a rapid pace
Q1. Is this happening at steady idle speed ?
Q2. What is the magnitude of fluctuation, what are the numbers its fluctuating between ?
Q3. What are the indications at a steady high engine speed ?
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7 hours ago, Mpgp1999 said:
Are the numbers the same for my engine?since it is an older engine can I use a modern gauge?
As others have stated the vac readings are pretty much standard for all engines; if you were to modify things like the cam then readings would be different, we assume not so in your case.
Given that you have had timing gear / chain issues I would expect that the vac readings would be steady but lower than the ideal 18".
It is important that you connect your vac guage line to a vacuum source which is unrestricted and below the throttle in terms of air flow, ideally this would be into a blanking plug on the intake manifold, if you are using some other source make sure there are no restrictors at the connect point, and yes do report back on your findings before you rip into it.
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6 hours ago, nearchoclatetown said:
You now have had someone install a new cam gear, it MIGHT be out of time. That will cause the problem you describe. You need to verify that it is on the marks, that the cam is timed correctly. THEN worry about the ignition timing. Did you ever install the condenser from Budd Lake? An easy way to check on cam timing is with a vacuum gauge. Find a chart online that explains the readings from a vacuum gauge and FOLLOW the instructions.
Given the info you have put up, the above would be high on my list of causes and before you pull anything apart do the vac guage thing, you should have about 18" steady vac reading at idle. If you are not familiar with this method of diagnosis do as suggested, find an analysis chart online, it is a very easy way to verify timing (both cam and ignition).
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For us its all about keeping cool, 42°C here yesterday !!
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3 minutes ago, hidden_hunter said:
Interesting, it's pretty common the buick scene to remove it, guess I'll leave it on my 22 and see how it goes. Don't think I'll want to do too much driving when it's 110 out
Yes as I said it cuts both ways, manifold heat is a pain in summer but an asset in winter. I guess if nothing else this discussion highlights an often not understood aspect of todays fuel issues with our older cars.
Just as an aside, if you really need to raise your awareness of cold weather piston engine fuel issues, open up a manual for light aircraft pilots; probably one of the most common causes of aviation mishaps is throttle icing, summer and winter.
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2 hours ago, Jim Bourque said:2 hours ago, Jim Bourque said:
In the 1920's gas was closer to kerosene. That's why carbs/intake manifolds were heated, the heat vaporized the gas. Today's gas does not need or want the heat.
As far as carb icing in Phoenix AZ, I doubt there is enough moisture in the air for that to be a problem.
As another poster on these forums says "90% of carb problems are ingnition related".... verify your ingnition system is working as it should, you may have more than one issue.
I am not a fan of electric fuel pumps on carbs that were designed to run a vacuum fuel pump, especially on a carb as finicky as the Johnson/Cadillac. If you need parts for your carb, Classics and Exotics has Viton tipped needle and seat, gaskets and a modern material float that are top quality. If you are not comfortable rebuilding your carb, they can do it for you.
I hope you get that beautiful classic back on the road soon
Jim
In the 1920's gas was closer to kerosene. That's why carbs/intake manifolds were heated, the heat vaporized the gas. Today's gas does not need or want the heat.
As far as carb icing in Phoenix AZ, I doubt there is enough moisture in the air for that to be a problem.
As another poster on these forums says "90% of carb problems are ingnition related".... verify your ingnition system is working as it should, you may have more than one issue.
I am not a fan of electric fuel pumps on carbs that were designed to run a vacuum fuel pump, especially on a carb as finicky as the Johnson/Cadillac. If you need parts for your carb, Classics and Exotics has Viton tipped needle and seat, gaskets and a modern material float that are top quality. If you are not comfortable rebuilding your carb, they can do it for you.
I hope you get that beautiful classic back on the road soon
Jim
Where I live its recognised as the driest state in the driest continent on this planet, I can assure you that in the middle of winter I suffer occasionally from throttle ice.
I wouldn't discount ignition or any other problems for that matter, but if I was suspecting fuel the above posting explains the probabilities.
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3 hours ago, hidden_hunter said:
Does it really need the manifold heat with modern gas?
Absolutely, the properties of todays gas are designed to function under high pressure for injection systems. Essentially the fuel is properly atomised in the region of 80psi and sprayed into the cylinder thru precision orifice nozzles.
A carb atomises fuel thru the low pressure area of the venturi just above the throttle plate, nowhere near as effective as a high pressure pump; the then (marginally atomised) fuel passes thru a convoluted, and this case cold, manifold before getting to the cylinders, along the way the cold fuel in contact with a cold manifold turns back to liquid and sticks to the walls of the manifold. Hence flooding and poor running are the usual characteristics. So in this instance manifold heating is desirable, up to a point.
Of course the down side of our primitive manifold heat mechanisms is during the summer, where they become too effective and over atomise - read vaporise - the fuel and we suffer from vapor lock, this is I suppose the price to pay running old cars on modern fuels.
was thinking of the vacuumatic clutch.
Adjusting external brakes on a 1929
in General Discussion
Posted
If you know anyone in the Dodge Bros Club, ask for a look at their latest newsletter, there is an absolute cracker article on how to go about it.